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Model 3 interior easily hot and stuffy (white on white)

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Last week, I had the chance to test how quickly the temperature rises in our Model 3 with white interior. I brought the cabin temperature to 72 degrees and then shut off the AC while the car was in full sunlight (80 degree weather) and sitting on black asphalt. In just 6 minutes the cabin got back to 110 degrees and in 10 mins was already at 115. I decided against running the AC to conserve energy while away from the car until the last five minutes of our approach.

Cabin overheat protection is convenient, but from an energy savings perspective it makes more sense to cover your windows or park in the shade. The trouble with these vehicles is the sheer surface area of glass. While driving under intense sun, I can definitely feel the heat in the cabin - especially within a few inches of the upper glass components. I have a tendency to wear a hat while driving which helps a bit.

115 degrees is the temp in just about all cars in your situation. That temp isn't a "Tesla" thing.

Good luck trying to get other ICE cars to utilize their overheat protection. "There aint nun".
 
Also white on white, and it is very hot where I live. I just ordered this "SUMK Model 3 Glass Roof Sunshade Sunroof Sunshade Compatible for Tesla Model 3 (Roof)" - Overnight delivery from Amazon. Its for both top glass sections - very good reviews, fraction of the cost for the Tesla accessory version (sold out).

I know that the glass is supposed to filter out some of the heat, but the top of my head gets pretty hot. I will give this a shot and report back. Check out the reviews/photos.

The glass roof has an IR coating and filters out 90%. But your windshield does not...
 
I have a spring type flip open windshield sun screen ( large size, $9 WalMart ) and crack all the windows an inch if it's not raining. It keeps the steering wheel and display at a reasonable temp. I also have the Tesla mesh screen for the front roof. AC cools car very fast.
 
I have a spring type flip open windshield sun screen ( large size, $9 WalMart ) and crack all the windows an inch if it's not raining. It keeps the steering wheel and display at a reasonable temp. I also have the Tesla mesh screen for the front roof. AC cools car very fast.
Not that it would solve the whole problem but I was wondering why no one else mentioned leaving the window(s) open a bit to let air circulate (lo tech solution). OTOH does anyone know the energy use comparing cabin overheat protection with a/c vs no a/c?
 
Get a high quality ceramic tint with high heat rejection.
All the way around, including windshield.**

** Requires specialized legal knowledge to know if this is legal in you state. Even when you can't "tint" the front, use of a high transparency film is often legal as it is the overall transparency of the windshield post-install that normally matters. Check with a number of your local installers. They should have the details on this although not all film installers are equal, that's why I suggest checking with a number of them.
 
From what I've seen on various forums and videos, photosync coatings can provide a difference of more than 20-30 degrees (F) in overall temperature protection while in the sun. Here is an example of one video, posted a few days ago (Note: not vouching for this video, just something I have come across).

 
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From what I've seen on various forums and videos, photosync coatings can provide a difference of more than 20-30 degrees (F) in overall temperature protection while in the sun. Here is an example of one video, posted a few days ago (Note: not vouching for this video, just something I have come across).

Yeah, Spectra is top-shelf for the clear version and these films really do make that kind of difference. I went went with 3M Crystalline as I thought the price difference wasn't worth the extra 5%-10% of rejected heat you get from Photosync, and I also got it in a bundle when getting my car wrapped (limited number of certified Photosync installers here).
 
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I've mostly been getting my car wrapped in bird-poo and dirt. Hasn't worked so well for me but on the flip side, I don't need to schedule an appointment, or spend any dough. ;)
I got both!

Bird nesting on top of the garage door motor, has bombed my car a few times now. :/ I'm putting up with it until they're done with this brood and then I'm going to remove the nest and cage around the area or something, to stop it from happening in the future.
 
115 degrees is the temp in just about all cars in your situation. That temp isn't a "Tesla" thing.

Good luck trying to get other ICE cars to utilize their overheat protection. "There aint nun".
One time, on a very hot summer day in Los Angeles, I went to a restaurant and found the perfect parking spot right in front on Ventura boulevard.

Had a 2 hour lunch meeting, paid the bill, got up and couldn't find my keys. Went out to my car and found out I had left the car running, ac on, the entire time.

I guess I was the guy who invented pre-conditioning, in 1997.
 
Any permanent modifications (i.e. tint or coatings) to keep the car cooler in the sun will adversely affect your range in cold, sunny weather when you need to heat the cabin. Cooling uses much less energy than heating from the battery, so in my climate I'll deal with the heat in summer for greater efficiency in winter.
 
Any permanent modifications (i.e. tint or coatings) to keep the car cooler in the sun will adversely affect your range in cold, sunny weather when you need to heat the cabin. Cooling uses much less energy than heating from the battery, so in my climate I'll deal with the heat in summer for greater efficiency in winter.
I don't buy it, but it might depend where you live. I'm much more concerned getting Sun Burns, and sun damage to the vehicle then using some extra heat in the winter.

Also the seats are not air conditioned.
 
One time, on a very hot summer day in Los Angeles, I went to a restaurant and found the perfect parking spot right in front on Ventura boulevard.

Had a 2 hour lunch meeting, paid the bill, got up and couldn't find my keys. Went out to my car and found out I had left the car running, ac on, the entire time.

I guess I was the guy who invented pre-conditioning, in 1997.
Did that with my ICE car last week, keyless ignition. Put the car in park, went into the grocery store, came out, wondered who’s car was running...mine...
 
I don't buy it, but it might depend where you live. I'm much more concerned getting Sun Burns, and sun damage to the vehicle then using some extra heat in the winter.

Also the seats are not air conditioned.
People that don't live in cold weather have no idea how much impact running the heat (and I mean at temps like 30 degrees and below) can have on range. Just be happy you don't live in cold weather and quit disagreeing with people that actually have experience with this sort of stuff.
 
People that don't live in cold weather have no idea how much impact running the heat (and I mean at temps like 30 degrees and below) can have on range. Just be happy you don't live in cold weather and quit disagreeing with people that actually have experience with this sort of stuff.
On the flip side, some heat blocking is actually heat absorption. You can see this at play in Model 3's made since the switch away from the ombré rear window. The rear window used to be made of the same glass as the roof piece, where it'll be orange-red when there are water droplets on it and such. That glass blocks heat via reflection of IR. The newer rear window blocks heat by absorption. Similarly low amounts of IR pass through these two, but you can actually feel the difference via touch. The rear window at the top gets warmer than the roof.

That heated glass makes it easier to maintain cabin temps because the sunlight energy is significantly being used towards keeping the temp differential between the glass and the inside lower. Not optimal but it is something if the particular film in question is more heat absorption based than reflection based.

P.S. Using the resistive heater is coddling the weak! Don't do that! ;)
 
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People that don't live in cold weather have no idea how much impact running the heat (and I mean at temps like 30 degrees and below) can have on range. Just be happy you don't live in cold weather and quit disagreeing with people that actually have experience with this sort of stuff.
So your saying there will be a large difference in cabin temperature in January in Canadia with window tint vs no window tint? So much that you won't have to run the heater as much? I just find it hard to believe having tint is going to make that much difference in the winter that it will have an adverse affect such that you have to run the heater more. However in the summer it can sure help keep the cabin cooler, and UV rays off your arms and interior. In the winter my cars are cold there and there isn't as much UV and IR to block in the first place. But I don't live in Canada so maybe this is true and if you tint your car it will be way colder than a non tinted car but that's not my understanding of how tint works.
 
So your saying there will be a large difference in cabin temperature in January in Canadia with window tint vs no window tint? So much that you won't have to run the heater as much? I just find it hard to believe having tint is going to make that much difference in the winter that it will have an adverse affect such that you have to run the heater more. However in the summer it can sure help keep the cabin cooler, and UV rays off your arms and interior. In the winter my cars are cold there and there isn't as much UV and IR to block in the first place. But I don't live in Canada so maybe this is true and if you tint your car it will be way colder than a non tinted car but that's not my understanding of how tint works.
So in the summer it would work to keep the car cooler, but not the winter? Not sure why you aren't understanding this.

People also don't grasp the difference in HVAC power needs. Full blast the A/C uses usually around 1.5-1.9 kW, with maintaining temp around .3-.6. Full blast the heater uses over 6 kW, with maintaining temp around 1-2 kW. Makes a huge difference on long drives where you are trying to preserve range.
 
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So in the summer it would work to keep the car cooler, but not the winter? Not sure why you aren't understanding this.

People also don't grasp the difference in HVAC power needs. Full blast the A/C uses usually around 1.5-1.9 kW, with maintaining temp around .3-.6. Full blast the heater uses over 6 kW, with maintaining temp around 1-2 kW. Makes a huge difference on long drives where you are trying to preserve range.
Because in the winter there isn't nearly the levels of IR and UV as there is in the summer, the days are also way shorter. So while it might be slightly cooler in the winter it cannot be compared to the amount of heat blocked in the summer. If it's cold enough to run the heater, your going to have to run the heater anyways. If your talking about a sight chill, where it might be slightly warmer without tint, just use the heated seats?

Searching for more information:
Window tint/interior vehicle temperatures in the winter...
 
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