Model 3 lowered - How many of you guys are using Camber Arms in the rear?

[Murchie]

Wassup yall,

I just lowered my 2021 M3 on KW v3s. Got my car aligned. The weight and the lowering pushes my rear camber to around -2. Which is pretty aggressive when it comes to wear on the rear. How many of you guys are running camber arms in the rear to adjust this and which ones? Thanks!

 

[Tee Why]

I am with my MPP coilovers. I got them installed at the same time I had the coilovers installed so I can’t give any before/after info but iirc, there’s kind of a rule of thumb that if you lower your car beyond X, camber arms are pretty much necessary to keep proper alignment. Plus the car will probably drive a little better.

Maybe someone here can chime in on when exactly the camber arms become necessary.

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[Rmchrger]

"Maybe someone here can chime in on when exactly the camber arms become necessary"

If you are unable to adjust the alignment to within the stock/recommended specifications after lowering, then you (should) install adjustable camber arms. This applies to most vehicles (that have camber arms). The more the alignment is out, the more the tires wear. Owners choice really.

 

[Gimmethecash]

Unplugged Performance camber arms on mine.

 

[Murchie]

Yeah I’m thinking I might to need to get some to be a little less aggressive in the camber in the rear.

 

[lvl2EV]

I put my car on air, which lowered about 2"-2.5" and had a -3 camber rear and a -3.5 front. I was averaging 340wh/mi on the Fwy. I threw on the rear camber arms and FUCA to correct it. We typically suggest if you are lowering more than 1.5" camber arms are a good idea; any lower than 2" you NEED both front and rear unless you are trying to run a negative alignment (for the track, maybe) and want to swap tires every 10-15k mi with reduced rolling efficiency.

 

[E.Potter]

I have camber arms with BC coils...currently running -.9 in front and -1.8 in rear

 

[dsgerbc]

-2 degrees camber but with zero toe shouldn't be too hard on the tire wear. If you can get to zero toe with factory adjustments, I don't think you *need* any extra hardware.

 

[asian_xl]

my Mazda 5 running almost zero toe and -2.2 front and -2.5 rear with Kumho PS91, very even wear, mostly driven in town only.

my Model 3 running almost zero toe and -1.0 front and -1.0 rear with Falken FK510, the MPP rear camber arm becomes handy to make both side camber even. I don't see the need to run more aggressive rear as this car tends to understeer, even with sway bar installed.

 

[aspec818]

Not really necessary if you’re around a 1.5” drop. I have a 1 finger gap in the rear with no abnormal wear. Toe is near 0 and camber is within -2

 

[E.Potter]

my toe is not zero...it's at +0.10...

 

[PH-y]

i am running with redwood motor sports camber units, as they are using - featuring Aurora Bearings™ motorsports grade Teflon lined bearings. And not old rubber based bushings. www.redwood motorsports.com

 

[dsgerbc]

not old rubber based bushings

These old rubber bushings are very NVH friendly. I had those Aurora bearings get noisy in RW Ohlins and had to pay get the rubber mounts instead.
I also have these bearings in my RW FUCAs and I think I'm staring to hear them as well. Those bearings are "motorsport grade" in the sense that NVH increase is possible. If that's not acceptable, go with rubber.

 

[18apetrella]

If you lower or raise your car more than 1 inch that's when it's almost guaranteed that you'll need rear camber arms for a perfect alignment. I have the Unplugged Performance rear camber arms on my car as well as on my old SR+.

 

[dek526]

agree with 18apetrella’s statement about lowering more than 1”. i have mpp sports and had the mpp camber arms installed when the coilovers were installed