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Model 3 - LR AWD Waiting Room

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Good point. Gas prices are still pushing people towards electrics. Existing orders won't be affected by the price increase, of course, and only those who are at the limit of their budget would walk away due to rate hikes. I don't expect delivery times to be affected for quite a while. If only Tesla was ramping up Model 3 production the way they're working on Model Y production.

I've read accounts that it can hit the battery hard. As in 8% over the course of a hot day. If you charge each night that's not a significant problem for range for most commuters, but it's a lot of battery use through the warm months. Not that these batteries seem to have a longevity problem. After 100,000 miles, they only seem to degrade about 11% - even with heavy fast charger use.

Edit: Another account claimed only 12 miles lost (~3%). It may just be a difference in ambient temperatures. Fire it up and find out how it works for your situation.
For battery degradation, there's a great thread [1] in the Model 3: Battery & Charging sub-forum. Having read through the whole thread, I can say the entire thread was quite interesting, in particular the posts from AAKEE.

It all boils down to battery degradation has two main parts: (1) cycle aging and (2) calendar aging. It appears that, for most people, the cycle aging is essentially a non-issue and that most degradation is coming from a high state of charge and heat. Most people lose the most capacity in year 1, and then the calendar aging levels off.

If you're following the standard Tesla recommendation (charge to 80%), you're in good shape (and will be covered by the battery warranty that guarantees 70% or higher battery capacity after 8 years or 120k miles). If you want to try to optimize for even better battery life, the referenced thread is a good read.

For the particular question about running overheat protection as a mechanism for preserving battery life, it appeared that people thought that was an expensive way to try to get some minimal benefit -- they recommended to try to park in shade as potentially being more beneficial for less cost.

[1] MASTER THREAD: Range Loss Over Time, What Can Be Expected, Efficiency, How to Maintain Battery Health
 
Wow just saw the news about the price increases. I am not sure if I would have pulled the trigger with the current prices, but like my wife just said, think of the cost savings of gas, inflation, etc..

And even with all of that everyone else will still line up to buy them. So I guess everyone has a different thought on it.

I just am glad I got in for the same car at $3500 cheaper. I wish I would have gotten in about two weeks sooner then it would have been even cheaper yet. But at this rate, let them keep going up and increasing the resale value of ours were about to take delivery of :).

The car market is super crazy right now. I just sold my 2013 Chevy Volt with 177,100 on the ODO for $7500 last night to a guy from Chicago off of the FaceBook marketplace. A couple of years ago I would have been laughed at and ridiculed for asking that much money on a 8-year-old car. Nope, the first guy showed up, said can we take it around the block, I said sure. We chatted about some of the features and stuff, got back, he did the what can you take for it, I said asking, he said sold. 2 hours later he was back with cash in hand no questions asked.

Easiest private party sale of a car I have ever had.

Lets have that happen for pickup on Saturday, please!! :)
 
I have been wondering about this. I assume keeping it on will help protect your interior over the years, but how much does it drain the battery?
I got to work yesterday with 71% battery and left overheat protection on, temperature got up to like 101°F outside. I worked 12 hours, got in my car and had 68% battery remaining. (3% battery drain over 12.5 hours in the direct sunlight 101°F ambient outside temp). Not bad, I will be leaving mine on. I also have all the windows besides the windshield tinted with ceramic tint.

For me Sentry mode was killing my battery more than anything so I shut it off at work and home.
 
If you want to try to optimize for even better battery life, the referenced thread is a good read.

[1] MASTER THREAD: Range Loss Over Time, What Can Be Expected, Efficiency, How to Maintain Battery Health
Here's a short, sweet summary about how to treat your battery that is taken from that thread.
Depth of discharge - the amount of energy removed and then added to a battery compared to its capacity. 100% to 0% and back again is one cycle, but is also a 100% depth of discharge. 75% to 25% and back again twice is also one cycle, but with a 50% depth of discharge. 50% to 40% and back again 10 times is one cycle but with a 10% depth of discharge. But the total number of cycles (i.e. the amount of useful energy you can get out of the battery) before it degrades to a certain point is inversely proportional to the depth of discharge (see Table 2), roughly tripling every time the average depth of discharge is cut in half, as well as inversely proportional to the upper voltage you were using when you were cycling the battery (see Table 4 in the previous link), where every 10-15% reduction also doubles the number of useful cycles you get. Calendar aging (aging associated with the battery simply existing over a certain amount of time, even if it is not used at all) is inversely proportional to the state of charge at which the battery is kept. High temperatures are bad for batteries in storage, but are beneficial when fast charging because they make it where the ions can more easily move around.

Put it all together and for maximum battery life, you want to:
1. Charge as often as possible (minimize average depth of discharge)
2. Put as little charge into the battery as you can get away with (minimize upper voltage)
3. Charge the battery as close to your departure time as possible and drive the car immediately after you charge it (minimize calendar aging)
 
I got to work yesterday with 71% battery and left overheat protection on, temperature got up to like 101°F outside. I worked 12 hours, got in my car and had 68% battery remaining. (3% battery drain over 12.5 hours in the direct sunlight 101°F ambient outside temp). Not bad, I will be leaving mine on. I also have all the windows besides the windshield tinted with ceramic tint.

For me Sentry mode was killing my battery more than anything so I shut it off at work and home.
What I do is leave sentry and overheat protection on, and then turn on the A/C 15 minutes prior to getting back into my car. My college campus has parking garages so maybe the overheat protection would be useless if I parked there, but the Tesla envy here is pretty strong so parking with many others is a horrible idea.
 
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Kinda interesting. We ordered a M3LR and MYP on 3/18. This past Tuesday evening, received a text (same as some others) from Tesla saying the M3LR was being built in June and reply if we were ready to accept a June delivery. This morning, we received a VIN for the MYP. Never received a text like we did for the M3LR. Not surprising since Tesla seems to be so inconsistent with their communications. Still waiting on a VIN for the M3LR. Just thought I would share for others that may be in similar situations. So Cal delivery.
 
So great to hear. I haven't heard anything from Devon but I'm assuming no news is good news. Picking up on Monday but I completed all the current delivery tasks I could so maybe they'll try to do it earlier? Fingers crossed
So great to hear. I haven't heard anything from Devon but I'm assuming no news is good news. Picking up on Monday but I completed all the current delivery tasks I could so maybe they'll try to do it earlier? Fingers crossed.
message them. i asked can i have an earlier date because they said my car was on site.
 
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I have the "NO A/C" version of Cabin Overheat Protection on, so it runs the fan when it gets hot. It draws almost no power at all. I don't like seeing my vehicle electronics at 140 degrees.
Forget what I said. It was drawing no power at all because it wasn't on. The feature only runs for 12 hours once you've parked, and I don't drive my car for days at a time (I'm a terrible Tesla owner, I know). On the upside, I don't see any battery drop for days at a time while it's parked. Right now it's at 43% state of charge (SOC) and hasn't changed in a couple days (though the following experiments saw it finally move to 42%)

I happen to have a FLIR camera, so I went out to take some readings inside the car. Tesla reported temperatures of 129F interior and 91F exterior. The FLIR camera said 100F in the footwells and 160F on the trim by the roof glass, confirming that hot air rises. Of course, all the heat is also coming in through the top. I'm not sure that my windshield reflector was doing a whole lot because it was also at 160F on the inside. I guess it prevents the heat from reaching the screen, which was at a chilly 140F.

I also just took some readings on the car's exterior surfaces. The roof was at 145F, the front windshield (with a reflector in place) was at 135F, and the hood was at 165F. For reference, the car is blue.

Lastly, I vented the windows to see how that would affect the interior temperature. The temperature had reached 137F for some reason, but after venting it dropped to 115F over about 10 minutes. The car reported an exterior temperature drop to 89F.

For the Celsius users, 160F is 71C, 115F is 46C, and 90F is 32C.

So if you can vent your windows, it's one way to lower the temperature in the car without burning any power, though it clearly has its downsides.
 
message them. i asked can i have an earlier date because they said my car was on site.
Messaged about an hour ago to see if I was still good for Monday. Haven't said anything back 😬

Edit: They texted shortly after. Still on track for Monday. Not going to mess with it now because I have my weekend planned already and Monday blocked out to take delivery.
 
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