Model 3 Midnight Silver LR AWD

[Michael A]

Do you have the physical title to the car? Is it free/clear of any liens?

 

[chazzico]

Do you have the physical title to the car? Is it free/clear of any liens?

Title in hand no liens, no issues, nothing to hide

 

[JamesBrown]

When you buy a tesla You have to pay this upfront $51,490 + $1200 document/delivery fee....excluding registration/sales tax. Its not a rebate or comes off instantly. This is done when smart guy lol. You wouldn't know the process your not buying new. Your also assuming folks have or automatically qualify for the full remaining tax credit. You continue to assume how things work and I can clearly see why you are where you are in life.

The vast majority of people that can afford a $50k+ car have at-least a $1875 tax liability. Especially being early in the year, there is plenty of time to adjust your withholdings to ensure you can take advantage of the tax credit. Still it reduces the purchase price of the car, making the effective purchase price lower. I apologize for assuming this was all common knowledge.

 

[chazzico]

The vast majority of people that can afford a $50k+ car have at-least a $1875 tax liability. Especially being early in the year, there is plenty of time to adjust your withholdings to ensure you can take advantage of the tax credit. Still it reduces the purchase price of the car, making the effective purchase price lower. I apologize for assuming this was all common knowledge.

Am I correct that 52K PLUS dollars is due to tesla to drive it off the lot for a brand new version of the car I am selling whether they buy it or take a loan out for it yes or no?

 

[JamesBrown]

Am I correct that 52K PLUS dollars is due to tesla to drive it off the lot for a brand new version of the car I am selling whether they buy it or take a loan out for it yes or no?

Wow.... so this really has to be explained to you?

Have you ever heard of a thing called a mail-in rebate? It means you purchase something for a certain price, say $100. Then you submit the rebate form to the company, they process it and send you a check for $20. You total out of pocket costs is now $100-20= $80.

A federal tax credit is a similar concept but on a more adult scale. You purchase a car and you adjust your withholding to have LESS federal taxes taken out of your paycheck each month, increasing your tax burden at end of year. Then you fill out a 8036 form showing edibility for the $1875 credit. That then allows you to deduct $1875 on your 1040 form, essentially making $1875 of extra money you got in your paycheck yours to keep. You have therefor gained $1875 that you would not have without purchasing a new Tesla.

So you pay Tesla $52,690 and federal government gives you $1875 back, it means you total out of pocket is $50,815 (plus registration and sales tax). If someone was to purchase your car and AP, then their total out of pocket would be $45,000 (plus registration and sales tax). That means your used 2018 car is $5815 less than someone would spend on a brand new 2019 model (with less miles and full warranty).

 

[chazzico]

Wow.... so this really has to be explained to you?

Have you ever heard of a thing called a mail-in rebate? It means you purchase something for a certain price, say $100. Then you submit the rebate form to the company, they process it and send you a check for $20. You total out of pocket costs is now $100-20= $80.

A federal tax credit is a similar concept but on a more adult scale. You purchase a car and you adjust your withholding to have LESS federal taxes taken out of your paycheck each month, increasing your tax burden at end of year. Then you fill out a 8036 form showing edibility for the $1875 credit. That then allows you to deduct $1875 on your 1040 form, essentially making $1875 of extra money you got in your paycheck yours to keep. You have therefor gained $1875 that you would not have without purchasing a new Tesla.

So you pay Tesla $52,690 and federal government gives you $1875 back, it means you total out of pocket is $50,815 (plus registration and sales tax). If someone was to purchase your car and AP, then their total out of pocket would be $45,000 (plus registration and sales tax). That means your used 2018 car is $5815 less than someone would spend on a brand new 2019 model (with less miles and full warranty).

DO YOU HAVE TO PAY TESLA 52K Plus when you go and pick up the car YES OR NO lol

 

[chazzico]

Wow.... so this really has to be explained to you?

Have you ever heard of a thing called a mail-in rebate? It means you purchase something for a certain price, say $100. Then you submit the rebate form to the company, they process it and send you a check for $20. You total out of pocket costs is now $100-20= $80.

A federal tax credit is a similar concept but on a more adult scale. You purchase a car and you adjust your withholding to have LESS federal taxes taken out of your paycheck each month, increasing your tax burden at end of year. Then you fill out a 8036 form showing edibility for the $1875 credit. That then allows you to deduct $1875 on your 1040 form, essentially making $1875 of extra money you got in your paycheck yours to keep. You have therefor gained $1875 that you would not have without purchasing a new Tesla.

So you pay Tesla $52,690 and federal government gives you $1875 back, it means you total out of pocket is $50,815 (plus registration and sales tax). If someone was to purchase your car and AP, then their total out of pocket would be $45,000 (plus registration and sales tax). That means your used 2018 car is $5815 less than someone would spend on a brand new 2019 model (with less miles and full warranty).

So almost 6K savings...coo coo thanks. Please continue posting your only helping me

 

[JamesBrown]

DO YOU HAVE TO PAY TESLA 52K Plus when you go and pick up the car YES OR NO lol

You are an uncultured piece of burnt toast.

 

[JamesBrown]

So almost 6K savings...coo coo thanks. Please continue posting your only helping me

Just a FYI, a $5800 savings is not considered a lot for a $50k car. That is why the industry standard depreciation schedule is 20% for the first year and 10-15% for each year after that.

 

[chazzico]

You are an uncultured piece of burnt toast.

Uncultured lol. Ive lived abroad in 3 different countries for 12+ years. I'll take it as a yes. you bum

 

[chazzico]

Just a FYI, a $5800 savings is not considered a lot for a $50k car. That is why the industry standard depreciation schedule is 20% for the first year and 10-15% for each year after that.

Who are you to determine what is a lot and what isn't. If I told you your annual salary was *sugar* and not a lot would that make sense. I mean it would if you compared it to mine but still. Stop making ASSUMPTIONS and logg off. Your in your 60-70's dude. just buy one already

 

[JamesBrown]

Who are you to determine what is a lot and what isn't. If I told you your annual salary was *sugar* and not a lot would that make sense. I mean it would if you compared it to mine but still. Stop making ASSUMPTIONS and logg off. Your in your 60-70's dude. just buy one already

I am not determining anything. I am only comparing it to the industry standard depreciation rates. You are well below the normal industry standard rates. That means you have a magical car that is not subject to depreciation or the discount you are offering is not a lot.
The Average Depreciation Rate of a Vehicle

I am in my 70s? Wow than you for informing me that I am now older than my grandfather. I cannot wait to call him and let him know.

 

[chazzico]

The person trying to buy this car new will spend 52K+

 

[Michael A]

Title in hand no liens, no issues, nothing to hide

I really don't want to add any more fuel to this fire but if I where to make you an offer on the car, send you a bank check from my credit union how am I assured or what guarantee do I have that I actually get the car? I am in NY and really dont have the time to fly to SC and drive the car back, I would probably just have it shipped through Montway.

I guess where I am going with this is Cargurus.com offers buyers insurance on the car and title receipt and protection for the seller as long as the transaction is done through there service. Is this something you would consider?

 

[chazzico]

I really don't want to add any more fuel to this fire but if I where to make you an offer on the car, send you a bank check from my credit union how am I assured or what guarantee do I have that I actually get the car? I am in NY and really dont have the time to fly to SC and drive the car back, I would probably just have it shipped through Montway.

Naw no worries i totally get it. I'd provide 2 forms of ID, physical address, video's, can have bill of sale generated, etc. I've bought many cars unseen often and know what its like. I've never been burned but there are bad people in this world.

 

[Michael A]

Naw no worries i totally get it. I'd provide 2 forms of ID, physical address, video's, can have bill of sale generated, etc. I've bought many cars unseen often and know what its like. I've never been burned but there are bad people in this world.

Would you consider using Cargurus so I have some buyer protection?

 

[chazzico]

Would you consider using Cargurus so I have some buyer protection?

Yea for sure, let me list it this evening.

 

[Michael A]

Yea for sure, let me list it this evening.

eBay would work also if you have an account.

 

[DLAv8r]

is the car still for sale?

 

[HostileHarry]

Yea for sure, let me list it this evening.

My rattle returned after 77-C replacement after about 1200 miles. I've visited the SC a couple times since then for other issues (including having one of my DRLs failing - well documented on this forum) but the techs maintain that the sound CANNOT be due to defective 77-Cs; they will not replace. Neither are they willing to investigate whether other hardware may be the cause. I guess I'll either need to live with the rattle or sell the car, which kind of feels like it is falling apart after one year. Not great for a $110k vehicle.

I believe the 'gotcha' with CarGuru's is that you have to use their financing in order to be protected. I went through this last year when I was selling my Volvo XC90 and the Buyer was annoyed because the rate for the loan was very high compared to their credit union. We ended up just doing the deal in person, but I always wishes the Carguru's option could have worked. Check into that.