Model 3 P without Performance Package, only for $68700

[pcons]

thanks @pcons and @Xevex your opinion on this.

"AWD is nuts fast, P-AWD will be killer" - I still need to think if I ever need a killer , at the same time don't want to regret later. Right now I can't judge myself, not seeing a use case for me where I would need to go from 0-100km with in 3.4 secs. Even my current config with in 4.6 secs itself is very unlikely that I ever hit (but it is there if I ever need to over take that annoying guy..) Or I can be that "emotional buyer" where I am super happy that I got the top most option with in this additional couple grands, whether I ever use it or not.

Anyway first thing first, let me call my sale rep on Monday and discuss about this

Lol, I have the perfect use case for you from personal experience: every time I take someone for a test drive and I punch it they freak out. But I always say to them 'this isn't the fast one', not sure how they would react with the P acceleration but I wish I knew

More seriously though, AWD is amazing. But it is always nice to have power available for every once in a while when you want to punch it. Even if you only punch it once in a while, spread over the years you own the car it's still worth it.

I actually used to be the guy telling people not to buy the performance version because it wasn't worth an extra 10-15k just to get better acceleration and more expensive tires to replace. But at 3k it's seriously a no brainer. If the extra 3k doesn't stretch your budget too much that is....

Or, I'll sell you my AWD which has EAP/FSD, is already tinted, ceramic coated, chrome deleted, brakes painted red, with new rims and winter tires...and I'll buy a new P-AWD for myself .

 

[ytwytw]

Lol, I have the perfect use case for you from personal experience: every time I take someone for a test drive and I punch it they freak out. But I always say to them 'this isn't the fast one', not sure how they would react with the P acceleration but I wish I knew

More seriously though, AWD is amazing. But it is always nice to have power available for every once in a while when you want to punch it. Even if you only punch it once in a while, spread over the years you own the car it's still worth it.

I actually used to be the guy telling people not to buy the performance version because it wasn't worth an extra 10-15k just to get better acceleration and more expensive tires to replace. But at 3k it's seriously a no brainer. If the extra 3k doesn't stretch your budget too much that is....

Or, I'll sell you my AWD which has EAP/FSD, is already tinted, ceramic coated, chrome deleted, brakes painted red, with new rims and winter tires...and I'll buy a new P-AWD for myself .

I can buy your AWD if you are seriously selling it lol

I’m still debating SR+ or P3D-

 

[ytwytw]

thanks @pcons and @Xevex your opinion on this.

"AWD is nuts fast, P-AWD will be killer" - I still need to think if I ever need a killer , at the same time don't want to regret later. Right now I can't judge myself, not seeing a use case for me where I would need to go from 0-100km with in 3.4 secs. Even my current config with in 4.6 secs itself is very unlikely that I ever hit (but it is there if I ever need to over take that annoying guy..) Or I can be that "emotional buyer" where I am super happy that I got the top most option with in this additional couple grands, whether I ever use it or not.

Anyway first thing first, let me call my sale rep on Monday and discuss about this

Highway acceleration is much better on the P model, tested today.

just consider this is inventory only deal, once gone it’s gone

also confirm It has track mode since it’s performance model, it will have a Dual Motor Red Underline Badge

 

[wethenorth]

When i called, they only have two in inventory. White on white for $70K or Black on black for $69.7K in Ontario. They said you can't custom order these yet since i asked if i could get one without the white interior for 1.3K less.

 

[gaspimp]

Has anyone succeeded in getting this price on a new factory order? By that I mean, placing a Performance order and calling in to downgrade?

 

[Tony_YYZ]

Why did I find this thread.....I have a perfectly fine LR RWD with low mileage......but want more speeeeds!

Someone Pls talk me down

 

[Pedactor]

Has anyone succeeded in getting this price on a new factory order? By that I mean, placing a Performance order and calling in to downgrade?

Been trying to call for 2 days....no luck on anyone answering to date.

 

[ytwytw]

Why did I find this thread.....I have a perfectly fine LR RWD with low mileage......but want more speeeeds!

Someone Pls talk me down

you got 14000 rebate it’s the world’s best deal for a model3.
Why burn more cash for P3D-? At least cost you 28k+ to upgrade lol

 

[pcons]

Why did I find this thread.....I have a perfectly fine LR RWD with low mileage......but want more speeeeds!

Someone Pls talk me down

Here is an easy one (since I just went through a thought experiment of my own to talk myself out of it). In my case even if I sold my model 3 for 10% less than what a new one would cost today with the same config (white, FSD, 18", AWD) and then put that money towards a P- I would be looking at around 20k delta for the 'upgrade'.

The biggest thing that kills this is having to pay tax on the P-. When you sell your car even if you get 55k-60k for it, you'll have to pay tax on 70k when you buy the new P-. So, you are paying 10-15k more for the car plus another 10k in tax, and bang: 20-25k to 'upgrade'

For what it's worth, until I sat down and spent 5 minutes to work this out I also had dreams of upgrading. Now, there is no way I'd do that. Even selling my AWD for 0% depreciation vs a new one, I would be paying 10k on sales tax on the new P-

Taxman....booooooooo!

 

[Watts_Up]

Here is an easy one (since I just went through a thought experiment of my own to talk myself out of it).
In my case even if I sold my model 3 for 10% less than what a new one would cost today with the same config (white, FSD, 18", AWD) and then put that money towards a P- I would be looking at around 20k delta for the 'upgrade'.

The biggest thing that kills this is having to pay tax on the P-. When you sell your car even if you get 55k-60k for it, you'll have to pay tax on 70k when you buy the new P-. So, you are paying 10-15k more for the car plus another 10k in tax, and bang: 20-25k to 'upgrade'

For what it's worth, until I sat down and spent 5 minutes to work this out I also had dreams of upgrading. Now, there is no way I'd do that. Even selling my AWD for 0% depreciation vs a new one, I would be paying 10k on sales tax on the new P-

Taxman....booooooooo!

Sorry, I am not following you.
- You paid tax everytime you buy a new car, except in some US states where there is no sales taxes.
- When you sale your car, you paid taxes only if there is a plus value from the original price.
- However some states offer a trade-in tax exemption, so you pay tax only on what you will have to pay to get a new car.
- In the case of leasing, you paid taxes only on the lease price

So regarding taxes, best is to keep your car as long as possible.

 

[Tony_YYZ]

you got 14000 rebate it’s the world’s best deal for a model3.
Why burn more cash for P3D-? At least cost you 28k+ to upgrade lol

Yeah I'd be out of pocket a lot more money for the upgrade.

Here is an easy one (since I just went through a thought experiment of my own to talk myself out of it). In my case even if I sold my model 3 for 10% less than what a new one would cost today with the same config (white, FSD, 18", AWD) and then put that money towards a P- I would be looking at around 20k delta for the 'upgrade'.

The biggest thing that kills this is having to pay tax on the P-. When you sell your car even if you get 55k-60k for it, you'll have to pay tax on 70k when you buy the new P-. So, you are paying 10-15k more for the car plus another 10k in tax, and bang: 20-25k to 'upgrade'

For what it's worth, until I sat down and spent 5 minutes to work this out I also had dreams of upgrading. Now, there is no way I'd do that. Even selling my AWD for 0% depreciation vs a new one, I would be paying 10k on sales tax on the new P-

Taxman....booooooooo!

After I made my post I spent some time with a calculator and came to the same conclusion. $20-25k and that's excluding FSD.

Not to mention all the money spent on upgrades/protections for my current car that would have to be done all over again.

 

[pcons]

Sorry, I am not following you.
- You paid tax everytime you buy a new car, except in some US states where there is no sales taxes.
- When you sale your car, you paid taxes only if there is a plus value from the original price.
- However some states offer a trade-in tax exemption, so you pay tax only on what you will have to pay to get a new car.
- In the case of leasing, you paid taxes only on the lease price

So regarding taxes, best is to keep your car as long as possible.

Think of it this way:

I paid cash for my car, so whatever I sell it for goes as equity against my new car (hypothetical) purchase. I don't get a tax break on the new car unless I trade it in to tesla, which will be terrible. Selling privately, the buyer of my car pays tax, but not to me. So I'm on the hook for full tax on the new car. So if I sold my car for 60k, but bought another one for 75k I would pay 15k delta, plus 13% tax on the full 75k, which is another 9.75k. So overall out of pocket delta to me would be 24.75k in the above scenario.

Hopefully that makes more sense...either way our conclusion is the same: best to keep the car as long as possible

 

[Tony_YYZ]

Think of it this way:

I paid cash for my car, so whatever I sell it for goes as equity against my new car (hypothetical) purchase. I don't get a tax break on the new car unless I trade it in to tesla, which will be terrible. Selling privately, the buyer of my car pays tax, but not to me. So I'm on the hook for full tax on the new car. So if I sold my car for 60k, but bought another one for 75k I would pay 15k delta, plus 13% tax on the full 75k, which is another 9.75k. So overall out of pocket delta to me would be 24.75k in the above scenario.

Hopefully that makes more sense...either way our conclusion is the same: best to keep the car as long as possible

Yeah if I hypothetically sell my far for $60k, look at a P3D- for $70k+$8k for FSD which is roughly $88,140 after tax then that leaves me with a cost delta of $28,140. That's almost half way to a whole second Tesla.

 

[thesteve]

Yeah if I hypothetically sell my far for $60k, look at a P3D- for $70k+$8k for FSD which is roughly $88,140 after tax then that leaves me with a cost delta of $28,140. That's almost half way to a whole second Tesla.

Yeah and that's a big _if_ you can sell for $60k now that they reduced prices. At the same time you (and I) received a $14k rebate, so you could consider that toward that $28k cost. Either way you're out $28k out of pocket. I was also considering it, but It's not worth it for me either, with PPF + FSD already, I'd also be losing too much towards it.

I'm glad they are making it more affordable but it really sucks they are forcing deprecation on our cars vs if they didn't drop the price our cars would be worth $20k more, but we did get a rebate. Not whining sorry, just facts, if they didn't drop the price, our cars wouldn't have dropped in price either. Anyway plan to keep it.

Hope they can offer these discounted prices on the Y, I would upgrade to perf Y for $30-35k in a minute.

 

[Tony_YYZ]

Yeah and that's a big _if_ you can sell for $60k now that they reduced prices. At the same time you (and I) received a $14k rebate, so you could consider that toward that $28k cost. Either way you're out $28k out of pocket. I was also considering it, but It's not worth it for me either, with PPF + FSD already, I'd also be losing too much towards it.

I'm glad they are making it more affordable but it really sucks they are forcing deprecation on our cars vs if they didn't drop the price our cars would be worth $20k more, but we did get a rebate. Not whining sorry, just facts, if they didn't drop the price, our cars wouldn't have dropped in price either. Anyway plan to keep it.

Hope they can offer these discounted prices on the Y, I would upgrade to perf Y for $30-35k in a minute.

Yeah I completely agree. The rebate made the LR RWD the best bang for the buck. So it's really hard to justify spending more. Since the Y should be even more desirable than that 3 (imo) I would have a hard time seeing them drop the prices for the first year at least. I hope I'm wrong.

I'm debating on paying down the 3 faster and start saving for a Y but the looming recession is always at the back of my mind and should probably just keep as much cash in reserve as possible.

 

[Funkmobile]

Why did I find this thread.....I have a perfectly fine LR RWD with low mileage......but want more speeeeds!

Someone Pls talk me down

 

[Watts_Up]

If you already own a LR AWD, I wonder if going to P- AWD would possible with only software upgrade?

So in this case you will pay tax only on the upgrade, like when I get the FSD for $2k instead of the initial $3k.

 

[Funkmobile]

If you already own a LR AWD, I wonder if going to P- AWD would possible with only software upgrade?

So in this case you will pay tax only on the upgrade, like when I get the FSD for $2k instead of the initial $3k.

Not going to happen anytime soon. It devalue the P3D+ and make it a nearly pointless product to buy. The only way I see it happening is that they enable "Ludicrous mode" for P3D+ while they have still have "Performance mode" for for the P3D-.

 

[Tony_YYZ]

Precisely!

 

[bijan]

Not going to happen anytime soon. It devalue the P3D+ and make it a nearly pointless product to buy. The only way I see it happening is that they enable "Ludicrous mode" for P3D+ while they have still have "Performance mode" for for the P3D-.

You never know. I didn't get EAP or FSD when I got my car, and for about 2 weeks they were on fire-sale, due to the price drops, and I got it for cheap. Prevailing wisdom was that it'd always be more expensive if purchased after the car.

I could see something similar happening for the AWD to P- software upgrade.