Does the car shutdown before it reads 0 miles remaining?
Theoretically, yes. Some cars go a few miles more. And in at least one case, it shut down with a few miles still left (but in fairness, he was towing and going uphill...):
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Does the car shutdown before it reads 0 miles remaining?
This might not be due to the charging habits, but it very well might be.
I hear that from US drivers that supposedly "Tesla" advices drivers to keep the battery at 90%.
This couldn't be further from the truth. "Tesla" says that you CAN charge to 90%, but in no way will charging to 90% daily be beneficial to the battery nor BMS.
Same goes for the video you posted. Charging to 90% ok, but not daily from 70%-90%
It hurts the battery because it keeps the Voltage very high and it hurts the BMS, because the BMS doesn't really know where the bottom is.
To me it sounds like the problem is with your charging. Go and ask Tesla to reset your battery again and this time charge from 25/30%-80-85%.
Meaning you charge to 80% and start driving and only charge it again when you are at 25% or so. Def. avoid charging above 50-60%.
Try to avoid any phantom drain by disabling sentry, car alarm, dashcam (pull the stick).
Keep it like that for 2-3 weeks and then do a 10%-100% charge.
what an excellent idea. Now I understand, thank you. A recent roadtrip gives these stats:
198.44 Miles Driven
251.61 Rated Miles Used
308 Wh/Mile
Battery Used
88%
61.11 kWh
Avg Speed
62 MPH
so, the constant is calculating 4.117 rated miles per kWh, or 242.87 Wh/mile.
and while that’s all well and good, all I have to do is multiply the 61.11 by 0.88 to know that my usable battery is only 69.44Kwh. So....what does this data tell you?
Wait...so are you saying Tesla's charging guidelines are wrong on this? The manual specifically says to charge nightly and to keep it plugged when not in use, if possible. This is what has always been the required standard are you saying not to do that?
Does the car shutdown before it reads 0 miles remaining?
69.4 kWh + the 3.3 kWh buffer = 72.7 kWh, which is 2.3 kWh lower than the 75 kWh Tesla says the battery is. So that is what 3% capacity loss?
Wait...so are you saying Tesla's charging guidelines are wrong on this? The manual specifically says to charge nightly and to keep it plugged when not in use, if possible. This is what has always been the required standard are you saying not to do that?
I actually wondered if they changed the buffer, when I first got this car the buffer read at 3.5 kWh, now it reads 3.3. It would be nice if someone with a new car could get the numbers from the pack before putting too many miles on it to verify if they are reducing the buffer as the pack ages.New batteries have 78kWh nominal capacity. Minus 3.5kWh buffer. = 74.5kWh usable capacity.
Later on with some degradation the buffer gets reduced as well. Bjorn has 73.5kWh nominal capacity minus 3.3kWh buffer. He measured 69.8kWh in his capacity test.
Alright, you’ve convinced me. I’ll do 30-80% charges for a few weeks and see how it goes. Thanks.I think I explained a lot of things in my post. If you wish you can try what I suggested. If not, then oh well.
Tesla follows the ABC(Always Be Charging) rules in manual because if they start linking graphs and charts they will only confuse people.
Most folks don't make the difference between a kW and kWh...Tesla doesn't make a great deal explaining things, especially the energy bar amd graph and charging(curves, speed, %). Probably due to incompetent and underpaid staff or/and lack of interest.
If you were just topping up the 70-90% the whole time and after a reset the battery reports higher miles, meaning there is more capacity available in kWh - this is your problem most certainly.
Rated miles available at the time of that drive were 284.86. So you’re bang on correct there. Rated miles have plunged since then to 268 at 100%. That was 3 weeks ago.what an excellent idea. Now I understand, thank you. A recent roadtrip gives these stats:
198.44 Miles Driven
251.61 Rated Miles Used
308 Wh/Mile
Battery Used
88%
61.11 kWh
Avg Speed
62 MPH
so, the constant is calculating 4.117 rated miles per kWh, or 242.87 Wh/mile.
and while that’s all well and good, all I have to do is multiply the 61.11 by 0.88 to know that my usable battery is only 69.44Kwh. So....what does this data tell you?
Alright, you’ve convinced me. I’ll do 30-80% charges for a few weeks and see how it goes. Thanks.
just one question: why isn’t this phenomenon apparent in my 2017 Model X? Charging habits are identical, and I’ve seen zero reduction in rated range in the 7 months I’ve owned it...
It is 3.5kWh when new and then it gradually falls down to match the degradation. Mine reads 3.4kWh on 10,000miles and 75.9kWh or about 1.5% degradation. I have seen it go as low as 3.3 on more mileage cars, so you are there now.I actually wondered if they changed the buffer, when I first got this car the buffer read at 3.5 kWh, now it reads 3.3. It would be nice if someone with a new car could get the numbers from the pack before putting too many miles on it to verify if they are reducing the buffer as the pack ages.
30-80% will help only AFTER the CAC reset. Push Tesla to do it and do the 30-80% for a month and see how that goes. If you go 30-80% now it will not do anything, afaik. Also, try to top it up to 100% after a month or two and start right away and drive it down to 10% and charge it back to 80-90. Plan a vacation trip or something
As for X/S, not sure, bigger battery, different chemistry and BMS who knows.
I am not an expert, but I have the feeling it is BMS and not the battery. The reason being is that after a reset it calculated properly.To my mind, and based on your info, this is degradation or bad cells, not a charging habit issue....What do you think?
Alright, thanks man. Will do.I am not an expert, but I have the feeling it is BMS and not the battery. The reason being is that after a reset it calculated properly.
This is like having a bad gauge in the tank - you have 60 but it reports 40. When you change it - it shows 60 again. If you really had only 40, it would've shown 40, since the gauge is new, and not 60, which you wouldn't have.
Same with the BMS - they reset something and the BMS started calculating the total capacity from the top kWh it measured. This proofs also why you had no issues during the 6 weeks. I think you tripped it during charging or something or a sensor in your battery is not correct. I'd say keep poking at them and have it escalated to a tech guy in Fremont. I am sure Tesla will be interested to know what causes this.
Without access to the BMS nobody can tell you waht is going on, except some Tesla tech. But like I said, my gut feeling is bad charging habbit and/or a combination with some BMS sensoring going wrong.
Make sure to tag me and make a new big post on the forum to report what happened. This will be important to everybody. Ask Tesla what they are doing and what the advice for charging is in the future and what triggers this sudden drop. And if it is the battery, what are they "fixing" if anything.Alright, thanks man. Will do.
Make sure to tag me and make a new big post on the forum to report what happened. This will be important to everybody. Ask Tesla what they are doing and what the advice for charging is in the future and what triggers this sudden drop. And if it is the battery, what are they "fixing" if anything.
Basically any information you can get. 15% drop is not normal.
Rated miles available at the time of that drive were 284.86. So you’re bang on correct there. Rated miles have plunged since then to 268 at 100%. That was 3 weeks ago.
I have the car now at 3.89V at 57% sorry I missed the 3.92V, but my guestimate it is around 60%-65%.I'm sure someone has posted it somewhere, but what does 3.92V equate to in the Model's SOC%age?
In the table that follows, they show 3.90V as 60 to 65%, but that's generically. Anyhow, I'd try 60% for a couple weeks.