I didn't like the ubers at stock height and offset but they're growing on me now that I put the coilovers & spacers on. I plan on 255/35 too once the OE tires wear out, mostly due to alot of reviews on this forum, and maybe some 3-5 mm spacers up ft to even it out with the rear.
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Model 3 Performance Spacers
- Thread starter Cyclone1
- Start date
I agree. I hated the Ubers so much at delivery I sold them off but it turns it out it was really the ride height and wheel gap that was the issue. Now I’ve seen Ubers on lowered cars and just wish I’d kept them as opposed to the hassle of selling. They fit the car very well.
downshift00
Member
So I did testing with the 8mm and 10mm spacer with stock and ET shank lugs from amazon that had those splines.
8mm spacer - normal lugs 7 turns so not enough to use
10mm spacer - ET lugs 12.5 turns, obviously didnt try regular lugs
So none of these spacers had a lip. Even though the 10mm fit, since there was no lip, the stock wheels dont sit on any of the remaining hub because the back of the P wheels has that lip carved out for the 2.5mm part sticking out from the rotor hat. So I didnt use them with the stock wheels. They would probably be OK with aftermarket wheels though since the back of the wheel would still sit on the remaining hub.
1st image is the 10mm you can see the stock wheel is not touching the hub
2nd image is the 8mm just resting on the hub.
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A couple thoughts:
1. 7 turns is probably enough isn’t it? At least for a daily? Although no reason to risk this since the extended lugs fit.
2. When you say no lip, do you mean no cut out for the performance hub? If so, gotta get custom machined spacers in my opinion. I have some 10mm customs being made to address the lip.
Assuming I can get those ET shanks to fit, looks like I’ll be able to get the 10mm on. Very nice. Thanks for doing this.
downshift00
Member
downshift00
Member
I heard it was 7.5 minimum or was it 8.5? i forget.
When I say lip, I mean the hub lip to mimic the continuation of the hub. Normally, 5mm spacers don't have a hub lip. The stock wheel mating surface is carved out 2.5mm for the 70.5 mm lip before it goes to 64.1mm.
The 8mm spacers were 20bux. I'm not paying 300 bux for 4 H&R spacers that I can only use with stock wheels with ET Shank lugs because they have a hub lip. 8mm is fine, ill be fine without 6mm extra. At that point I might as well buy bolt on spacers i can use with all wheels.
I had custom spacers made years ago for the Evo. How do you relay the info about the spacers also having to have the extra cutout at 70.5mm and then neck back down to 64.1mm for the P cars?
When I say lip, I mean the hub lip to mimic the continuation of the hub. Normally, 5mm spacers don't have a hub lip. The stock wheel mating surface is carved out 2.5mm for the 70.5 mm lip before it goes to 64.1mm.
The 8mm spacers were 20bux. I'm not paying 300 bux for 4 H&R spacers that I can only use with stock wheels with ET Shank lugs because they have a hub lip. 8mm is fine, ill be fine without 6mm extra. At that point I might as well buy bolt on spacers i can use with all wheels.
I had custom spacers made years ago for the Evo. How do you relay the info about the spacers also having to have the extra cutout at 70.5mm and then neck back down to 64.1mm for the P cars?
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Traverse Ridge Racing knows how to do it. Just email them and ask for custom spacers for an M3P. My 10mm are on order. I have some 8s they made.
downshift00
Member
Oh nice. What do they charge for those? Why not just go to the 14mm instead of 10mm since that can be used with the ET lugs?
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Yeah 7.5 but 7 turns on a street car should be fine.
Should be under 100.
hmmm.
downshift00
Member
So I just emailed them. 10mm is the max they do for slip on spacers. Any bigger has studs on them. Ya i guess 7 turns might be fine in the streets. They charge $85 a pair for the 10mm.
I'd rather just go with bolt on big spacers than pay 170 for 10mm when I have 8mm for 20bux that still allow the wheel to center on the hub still.
.I wouldn’t use the 8mm on an m3p without the hub lip machined. Yes as for the big bolt on that’s an option as well. I can’t use them for my Rohanna unfortunately without shaving the studs.
I am running 20mm in the rear only as well. Is there any issue with nothing else on the front? Is the car too staggered? Any handling issues? I noticed at 140 mph its a bit unstable but never hit 140 without the spacers. Maybe the 235s are just too narrow
P3D-R
Closed
This depends on which wheel you have and if you get adjustable rear camber arms to reduce the rear camber.
15/20 is ideal but not doable on an M3P since 15 likely won’t clear. 20 may not even work with some aftermarket wheels - like my rohanna. 5/20 is common on the m3p. LR can do 15/20. You likely will want some spacers since you’ll get some rear tuck lowered.
I am currently planning to lower with MPP coil overs and the adjustable rear camber arms. The wheels I have are the uberturbines.
appreciate the help!
That is exactly the same setup I'm going with. I'll be adding 5mm spacers in front, 16mm in the back. Have all the parts but need to schedule with the shop. I'll update here once I have it done.
It depends on your taste, but from what I could gather in the several topics on this matter, these sizes appear to be as close as possible to perfect.
P3D-R
Closed
This is with the caamber corrected to about -1 degree front and rear with the use of MPP rear camber arms as well as OEM front adjustments. This vehicle happens to be on Eibach springs but you get the point. Lowering is lowering.
This has symmetrical 14mm spacers as well. I think this is perfect with the OEM "baby stretch" 235's on the 9J's. If you opt to go wider with a 265/30/20 tire then you can just move to 5mm slip on spacers in my professional opinion. This is a daily occurrence for us in Fremont, CA.
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