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Model 3 Performance Spacers

I just looked them up on yelp and they seem to do aftermarket stuff. Mustangs, BRZ's, and even saw a Model X on there. The key is to run some positive toe up front. The factory likes to toe out the front wheels which kills the insides of the front tires. Hope that helps. DM me when you find a place and i'll shoot you some numbers to target for. In all honesty, buy some camber arms. It will make the whole driving experience and tire life better. You can always sell them afterwards at minimal loss. I have some in stock if you want. If you're really trying to be cheap then just get the Megan Racing ones, which I do not "love" by any means but they can get the job done.
Thanks. Appreciate that. I’m gonna squeeze a couple more thousand out of these tires and order new and get everything done together. My concern with the camber arms is less about the cost of them but rather the install cost. I plan to trade the car in the next 12 months anyway.
 
Thanks. Appreciate that. I’m gonna squeeze a couple more thousand out of these tires and order new and get everything done together. My concern with the camber arms is less about the cost of them but rather the install cost. I plan to trade the car in the next 12 months anyway.
It takes 20 mins to install them. It's very fast and very easy.
 

tm1v2

Active Member
Oct 18, 2021
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USA
@clerks What's your suspension setup? Since you're in need of an alignment anyways, and selling the car within a year, and price+labor sensitive, how about going back to stock height now?

If you're on coilovers you could raise them up to stock-like height while still enjoying the handling and/or ride benefits, and then swap back to stock later. Since you're seeking an alignment now anyways, it seems like a good time to adjust coilover height.

If you're on lowering springs, and you're trying to minimize money spent on your Model 3 at this point since you plan to sell it, I really suggest swapping back to stock springs now instead of investing in camber arms and another lowered-height alignment. (Yes you should get decent money back selling used camber arms, but unless you manage to score a used set quickly, you're still going to lose $$$ by buying new and selling used.)
 
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@clerks What's your suspension setup? Since you're in need of an alignment anyways, and selling the car within a year, and price+labor sensitive, how about going back to stock height now?

If you're on coilovers you could raise them up to stock-like height while still enjoying the handling and/or ride benefits, and then swap back to stock later. Since you're seeking an alignment now anyways, it seems like a good time to adjust coilover height.

If you're on lowering springs, and you're trying to minimize money spent on your Model 3 at this point since you plan to sell it, I really suggest swapping back to stock springs now instead of investing in camber arms and another lowered-height alignment. (Yes you should get decent money back selling used camber arms, but unless you manage to score a used set quickly, you're still going to lose $$$ by buying new and selling used.)
Yeah I’ve considered this. But going back to stock will cost me $500 in labor now and I really hate the stock ride height (appearance). So the only real wildcard is the increased tire wear and how much tread gets smoked before I trade/sell. If I buy an new set of tires and get a proper alignment my hope is when I go to trade the tires will still be okay and the dealer can decide whether to go back to stock. My front tires are showing 2 on the inside and 3/4 on the outside. This is at about 12k.
 
@clerks What's your suspension setup? Since you're in need of an alignment anyways, and selling the car within a year, and price+labor sensitive, how about going back to stock height now?

If you're on coilovers you could raise them up to stock-like height while still enjoying the handling and/or ride benefits, and then swap back to stock later. Since you're seeking an alignment now anyways, it seems like a good time to adjust coilover height.

If you're on lowering springs, and you're trying to minimize money spent on your Model 3 at this point since you plan to sell it, I really suggest swapping back to stock springs now instead of investing in camber arms and another lowered-height alignment. (Yes you should get decent money back selling used camber arms, but unless you manage to score a used set quickly, you're still going to lose $$$ by buying new and selling used.)
My recommendation was based on his need to help the tire wear situation he was inquiring about. Going back to stock springs didn't seem like an option he wanted to pursue or he would have done it already. Ultimately he'll just need to calculate the cost of premature tire wear to the cost of the corrected alignment with associated parts. At least he has information now to do that calculation.
 
I continue to be unable to get a proper alignment done in Pittsburgh. I’ve tried independent shops, chains and large car dealers. No one knows what to do and many say no tesla. I burned through my all seasons in 12k miles. Yes I’m lowered by an inch and yes I don’t have camber arms. I expected some additional wear but this is rough. I was told to avoid tesla for an alignment due to the springs. Anyone have any recommendations? Thanks.
Where have you tried?

I race my car heavily in the Pittsburgh area and have a pretty aggressive alignment via camber arms.

I can tell you Hamm automotive in Jeannette is incredibly thorough and Casey knows these cars very well and has brand new hunter equipment.

I drive from Beaver there just to use him. He can only do what he can do given the parts you have but he knows the tricks to slightly adjust camber in the front and rear with factory parts

1658870677649.jpeg
 
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Where have you tried?

I race my car heavily in the Pittsburgh area and have a pretty aggressive alignment via camber arms.

I can tell you Hamm automotive in Jeannette is incredibly thorough and Casey knows these cars very well and has brand new hunter equipment.

I drive from Beaver there just to use him. He can only do what he can do given the parts you have but he knows the tricks to slightly adjust camber in the front and rear with factory parts

View attachment 833123
Awesome. Thanks. I’m going to give them a call. Looks like just what I need. This far no one I have tried has a clue about tesla. Even took it to Rahal and they made it worse. Does it matter if I do the alignment before the new wheels or after?
 
My recommendation was based on his need to help the tire wear situation he was inquiring about. Going back to stock springs didn't seem like an option he wanted to pursue or he would have done it already. Ultimately he'll just need to calculate the cost of premature tire wear to the cost of the corrected alignment with associated parts. At least he has information now to do that calculation.
Yeah this is good stuff. Appreciate the thoughtful responses from everyone here.
 
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Awesome. Thanks. I’m going to give them a call. Looks like just what I need. This far no one I have tried has a clue about tesla. Even took it to Rahal and they made it worse. Does it matter if I do the alignment before the new wheels or after?
It shouldn’t matter. Yeah give them a call for sure, they were about 2 weeks behind when I went out, if you check their social media you’ll see they do a ton of high end modified cars in the area including all the builds TPG tuning sends down there (they’ve done coilovers on a few Teslas)
 
i got a 2019 tesla model 3 performance, would you think its safe to go with stock front and 20mm on rear spacer pal? i wish to use h&r only as its a personal preference. Im just worried if its safe or not... or if i should go with 5mm front 20mm rear
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but i believe you want a square setup on AWD vehicles. You may want to choose 1 spacer width for all 4 wheels.
 
I don’t think this is a thing. Lots of folks running awd teslas with different spacers. Also lots of people running staggered setups on their awd teslas.
This. Maybe and I stress maybe it matters if there’s a transfer case and transmission involved (I still don’t think so as none of that will care about track width) but there’s no mechanical connection between front and back on our cars
 
Hi, new on here, great info on here.... I've gone through every page to the point I've confused myself!

I have a M3P currently on the boat towards me in the uk to be picked up Aug 23rd so completely stock obviously....

I want to go with spacers first.... not wanting to get into lowering and new wheels....... on week one at least !

Question is......... is 5 front and 18 or 20 rear a good easy way to start?

I've seen lots of differences mentioned with pockets and studs etc..... I want to order the spacers now or is this a dumb idea?

thanks again, enjoying loitering in the community

cheers
 
Hi, new on here, great info on here.... I've gone through every page to the point I've confused myself!

I have a M3P currently on the boat towards me in the uk to be picked up Aug 23rd so completely stock obviously....

I want to go with spacers first.... not wanting to get into lowering and new wheels....... on week one at least !

Question is......... is 5 front and 18 or 20 rear a good easy way to start?

I've seen lots of differences mentioned with pockets and studs etc..... I want to order the spacers now or is this a dumb idea?

thanks again, enjoying loitering in the community

cheers
That setup should get you close with minimal friction!
 
Hi, new on here, great info on here.... I've gone through every page to the point I've confused myself!

I have a M3P currently on the boat towards me in the uk to be picked up Aug 23rd so completely stock obviously....

I want to go with spacers first.... not wanting to get into lowering and new wheels....... on week one at least !

Question is......... is 5 front and 18 or 20 rear a good easy way to start?

I've seen lots of differences mentioned with pockets and studs etc..... I want to order the spacers now or is this a dumb idea?

thanks again, enjoying loitering in the community

cheers
Depending on your wheels it will be trial and error for the rears. You might get luckily with 18s but 20 will be a better bet to fit. Congrats on the new car.
 

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