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Model 3 Performance Spacers

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Yes, you are right, and have my apologies! This is with factory 2022 M3P rotors.

One unknown: I am not sure if number of available turns would change with the factory 21mm lug nuts.
Which lugnuts are you using? In theory a 60 degree conical should be the same but it's very wise of you to put that "disclaimer". "Use at your own risk or count your threads."

TIP for the laymen person to count rotations, I tighten 4 out of 5 lugnuts down and torque to spec. Then that last lugnut I'll put a line on my socket and count the turns. Then continue counting the finstal rotations when torquing. I have found this to be the best method for an accurate count and hopefully not stretching threads.
 
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I think you will damage your fenders with 30mm rear spacers. Your front fitment is factory weak but if you're on stock suspension I'm not sure what the issue is. If you space them out more the car will just look more lifted. It will exaggerate the gap above the tire.
I’m a little confused. I thought spacers just push the tire out more.

A friend of mine just told me that an easy way to figure out fitment using spacers is to know what size tires you can run without clearance issues.

If a Model 3 can run 295/35/19 tires in the rear, then 265/35/19 with 30mm spacer should be fine, as it’s just as wide at 295 tires without increasing the diameter by an inch. So chances of rubbing are 0.

Is that not true?
 
I’m a little confused. I thought spacers just push the tire out more.

A friend of mine just told me that an easy way to figure out fitment using spacers is to know what size tires you can run without clearance issues.

If a Model 3 can run 295/35/19 tires in the rear, then 265/35/19 with 30mm spacer should be fine, as it’s just as wide at 295 tires without increasing the diameter by an inch. So chances of rubbing are 0.

Is that not true?
A 295 is 30mm wider than a 265, so 15mm wider on each side of the wheel’s centerline. A 15mm spacer would push the wheel’s centerline 15mm further out, resulting in the same relative fitment.
 
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A 295 is 30mm wider than a 265, so 15mm wider on each side of the wheel’s centerline. A 15mm spacer would push the wheel’s centerline 15mm further out, resulting in the same relative fitment.
Ah, that makes a lot more sense!

Would you happen to know the highest I can go on the back on a stock springs and coil overs? I just want my rear tires to stick out as much as possible.

5197B94E-D79E-460D-96CE-75B513041026.jpeg


I’m running 265/35/19 in the rears and want the wheels/tires to stick out as much as possible?
 
Did some more research and think I figured it out. Since the Model 3 can clear 305/35/19 tires, but not 315/35/19, then I should safely be able to use 20mm spacers on the back with my 265/35/19 tires. 25mm spacers would rub unless I change my tires to something like 265/30/19.
 
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Did some more research and think I figured it out. Since the Model 3 can clear 305/35/19 tires, but not 315/35/19, then I should safely be able to use 20mm spacers on the back with my 265/35/19 tires. 25mm spacers would rub unless I change my tires to something like 265/30/19.
Pretty reasonable logic!

Though, existing knowledge suggests somewhere between a 15mm and 20mm spacer is about right for the rear of a factory M3P. The factory tires are so stretched that going 235 to 265 won’t make a huge difference in overall appearance, but probably closer to a 15mm spacer is about ideal for a 265 tire!
 
I also don’t have performance, I have LR RWD

Did some more research and think I figured it out. Since the Model 3 can clear 305/35/19 tires, but not 315/35/19, then I should safely be able to use 20mm spacers on the back with my 265/35/19 tires. 25mm spacers would rub unless I change my tires to something like 265/30/19.
IDK this is all too confusing to me now. Using spacers is very simple. You just take a measurement from the wheel or tire to the inside of the fender. Use a plumb bob if you need to. Tire fitment is all relative to wheel width, offset, and alignment values. I think you're making it more complicated than it needs to be.

As you mentioned prior your wheel fitment is such:

LR RWD, stock suspension
19x8.5 +35 with 245/40/19 is a very stock fitment and a bit weak.
19x9.5 +35 with 265/35/19 is a reasonable fitment imo.

If you have stock suspension you have only -0.5 degs of negative camber up front. you might have -1.0 degs in the rear.

On a RWD car I would only use a 10mm - 15mm spacer up front and 5mm in the rear. Anything beyond that and I'm sure the tire will stick out past the fender. This will net a 19x8.5 +20 at most and a 19x9.5 +30 in the rear.

I promise you that the logic you are pursuing by comparing max tire fitment is very skewed and won't work. You're missing key variables in the equation like wheel width, offset, and alignment values. You cannot assume that all wheels are the same.

The advice I am giving you on a stock suspension LR RWD car is really solid. If I was you I would take a metric ruler and place it perpendicular to your tire's sidewall. Then see what your proposed spacer size will do to the position of your current tire/wheel assembly.
 
IDK this is all too confusing to me now. Using spacers is very simple. You just take a measurement from the wheel or tire to the inside of the fender. Use a plumb bob if you need to. Tire fitment is all relative to wheel width, offset, and alignment values. I think you're making it more complicated than it needs to be.

As you mentioned prior your wheel fitment is such:

LR RWD, stock suspension
19x8.5 +35 with 245/40/19 is a very stock fitment and a bit weak.
19x9.5 +35 with 265/35/19 is a reasonable fitment imo.

If you have stock suspension you have only -0.5 degs of negative camber up front. you might have -1.0 degs in the rear.

On a RWD car I would only use a 10mm - 15mm spacer up front and 5mm in the rear. Anything beyond that and I'm sure the tire will stick out past the fender. This will net a 19x8.5 +20 at most and a 19x9.5 +30 in the rear.

I promise you that the logic you are pursuing by comparing max tire fitment is very skewed and won't work. You're missing key variables in the equation like wheel width, offset, and alignment values. You cannot assume that all wheels are the same.

The advice I am giving you on a stock suspension LR RWD car is really solid. If I was you I would take a metric ruler and place it perpendicular to your tire's sidewall. Then see what your proposed spacer size will do to the position of your current tire/wheel assembly.

In my previous post I mentioned my wheels, which are the only thing not stock.

Front: 19x8.5 with +35 offset
Rear: 19x9.5 with +30 offset

My confusion stemmed from the fact that everyone wants their tires flush with the fenders. I’m actually hoping to make the rear tires poke out beyond the fender for an aggressive staggered look without increasing my tire size or causing any kind of rubbing on stock suspension. I also didn’t know that a 20mm spacer is the equivalent of going up 40mm in tire size. Lindenwood helped me figure that part out.

My plan is now to go 245/40/19 in the front with 5mm spacer and 265/35/19 in the rear with 20mm spacer.
 
In my previous post I mentioned my wheels, which are the only thing not stock.

Front: 19x8.5 with +35 offset
Rear: 19x9.5 with +30 offset

My confusion stemmed from the fact that everyone wants their tires flush with the fenders. I’m actually hoping to make the rear tires poke out beyond the fender for an aggressive staggered look without increasing my tire size or causing any kind of rubbing on stock suspension. I also didn’t know that a 20mm spacer is the equivalent of going up 40mm in tire size. Lindenwood helped me figure that part out.

My plan is now to go 245/40/19 in the front with 5mm spacer and 265/35/19 in the rear with 20mm spacer.
I recall your wheel sizes which is why I listed them in the post above your reply. My concern with you netting a 19x9.5 +15 offset with 265's is that your tire will contact your fender when the suspension compresses in a corner. Please tread lightly. You will also kick up a lot of debris on the body of your car which will hurt the already fragile paint.
 
My plan is now to go 245/40/19 in the front with 5mm spacer and 265/35/19 in the rear with 20mm spacer.
Ah, the tractor look. ;)

20mm in the rear will most likely rub hard on compression. I'd get the 15mm hubcentric adapter first (if it works with your wheels), remove the rear spring, disconnect the rear swaybar, and make sure there is no rubbing with a full range of motion. If it works, you may have to cut out half an inch or so of the rear inner fender liner (or you'd risk ripping it out even if you clear sheet metal).

If a 15mm clears with plenty to spare (like 10mm at least), maybe then you can step up to a 20mm spacer. Plenty of bushings in the rear suspension are pretty soft and the wheel may camber out a big under hard cornering.
 
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This might help:

Depicted in black are my race wheels at 275/35R19 with a +22 offset. I actually moved the wheel in 10mm to account for my ~2.5 degrees of camber, and another 4mm to account for my thinner Performance rotor hats.

The the top of orange outline represents a 265/35R19 at your proposed +10 offset and specifically depicts where the top of your tire will be relative to mine. I am only maybe 3mm from rubbing the fender. You will carry significant risk of damaging the fender or tire on hard bumps!
35831BE8-CBC2-445A-9F93-6F7B18A47F81.png
 
This might help:

Depicted in black are my race wheels at 275/35R19 with a +22 offset. I actually moved the wheel in 10mm to account for my ~2.5 degrees of camber, and another 4mm to account for my thinner Performance rotor hats.

The the top of orange outline represents a 265/35R19 at your proposed +10 offset and specifically depicts where the top of your tire will be relative to mine. I am only maybe 3mm from rubbing the fender. You will carry significant risk of damaging the fender or tire on hard bumps!

Yup I wouldn't go past a 9.5 +30 on a silver caliper car with oem rotors and 265's. A lot of people don't realize that stock suspension will still compress "tuck tire" at full compression. It will definitely gain some camber but I don't think I'd push it out as far as he wants.
 
I was recently contacted by BONOSS after I placed an order for 15mm spacers up front for my 2022 M3P. They said they have run into fitment issues with the studs protruding into the back of the wheel due to shallow pockets. They are recommending 18mm or 20mm. They also stated that they’re not 100% sure that the 18mm fits without grinding down the stock studs, but the 20mm fits 100% with no issue. Has anyone with a newer M3P running the stock uberturbines installed these? Should I go 18mm or 20mm? Pics would help for reference. I’m going for as close to flush fitment as possible, but don’t mind a little poke. Thanks in advance!
 
I was recently contacted by BONOSS after I placed an order for 15mm spacers up front for my 2022 M3P. They said they have run into fitment issues with the studs protruding into the back of the wheel due to shallow pockets. They are recommending 18mm or 20mm. They also stated that they’re not 100% sure that the 18mm fits without grinding down the stock studs, but the 20mm fits 100% with no issue. Has anyone with a newer M3P running the stock uberturbines installed these? Should I go 18mm or 20mm? Pics would help for reference. I’m going for as close to flush fitment as possible, but don’t mind a little poke. Thanks in advance!
They are 100% correct. 15mm studded will not work and 18/20 is too much.
 
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This is with the caamber corrected to about -1 degree front and rear with the use of MPP rear camber arms as well as OEM front adjustments. This vehicle happens to be on Eibach springs but you get the point. Lowering is lowering.

This has symmetrical 14mm spacers as well. I think this is perfect with the OEM "baby stretch" 235's on the 9J's. If you opt to go wider with a 265/30/20 tire then you can just move to 5mm slip on spacers in my professional opinion. This is a daily occurrence for us in Fremont, CA.

View attachment 790641View attachment 790642View attachment 790643View attachment 790644
What’s the stock camber?

What’s the reason for the camber adjustment?

Thanks
 
Stock camber is relative to the height of the vehicle. When you lower the vehicle you gain more negative camber which is less than ideal imo. Many people will try to correct the aesthetic by adding a bigger spacer in the rear than the front but this does not correct the angle of the tire which can still result in premature inner tire wear. I much prefer to invest in an adjustable camber arm to correct this angle, run a smaller spacer, and then reduce the long term cost of tires. I hope that helps shed light.

In my experience OEM camber in the rear at OEM height is generally around -1.0 but can vary left to right. When you lower the vehicle around 1 - 1.5" it can be anywhere from -1.5 to -2.0 on the more negative side. Sometimes one side will be "ok" but the other side will not. It only takes one bad side to create a poorly wearing tire.

This is camber:

1667070949372.png
 
I see. I used to run around -1.8 in my BMW and seemed to be a good compromise between street and hpde

Thanks for the details.

So I guess if you do coil overs then you need the adjustable arms in the rear to adjust camber

What about the front. Is camber adjustable with the stock arms if you go coil overs way ?