Model 3 Performance Spacers

[P3D-R]

I see. I used to run around -1.8 in my BMW and seemed to be a good compromise between street and hpde

Thanks for the details.

So I guess if you do coil overs then you need the adjustable arms in the rear to adjust camber

What about the front. Is camber adjustable with the stock arms if you go coil overs way ?

There is hardly any adjustment up front. In fact don't really have camber adjustment anywhere for all intensive purposes. Whatever we have is extremely minute. You'll have to decide for yourself what reasonable is for driver feel and tire wear. I have my own preferences that might not relate to everyone. Can't argue with having the adjustable to set things to whatever preference you have.

 

[mvaccaro]

Ok so basically to have any adjustability front and rear you need these?

Camber Adjustable Front Upper Control Arms for Tesla Model 3 & Y

The Corkscrew Front Upper Control Arms for Tesla Model 3 & Y provide substantial negative camber and endless adjustment with a high quality ball joint!

www.mountainpassperformance.com

Arastradero Rear Upper Camber Arms for Tesla Model 3 & Y

The Arastradero Rear Upper Camber Arms for Tesla Model 3 & Y are the easiest to adjust and most precise camber arms on the market. Choose MPP and win!

www.mountainpassperformance.com

Is there any other more cost effective option?

And now... what about toe... is there any adjustment with stock setup ?

 

[P3D-R]

Ok so basically to have any adjustability front and rear you need these?

Camber Adjustable Front Upper Control Arms for Tesla Model 3 & Y

The Corkscrew Front Upper Control Arms for Tesla Model 3 & Y provide substantial negative camber and endless adjustment with a high quality ball joint!

www.mountainpassperformance.com

Arastradero Rear Upper Camber Arms for Tesla Model 3 & Y

The Arastradero Rear Upper Camber Arms for Tesla Model 3 & Y are the easiest to adjust and most precise camber arms on the market. Choose MPP and win!

www.mountainpassperformance.com

Is there any other more cost effective option?

And now... what about toe... is there any adjustment with stock setup ?

We don't gain much camber up front when lowering so only the rear camber arm would be truly needed imo. Front and rear toe is factory adjustable so you're fine.

 

[mvaccaro]

We don't gain much camber up front when lowering so only the rear camber arm would be truly needed imo. Front and rear toe is factory adjustable so you're fine.

I see... but say you want do HPDE you might want some more extra camber.... btw what's the stock camber in the front ?

 

[P3D-R]

I see... but say you want do HPDE you might want some more extra camber.... btw what's the stock camber in the front ?

All relative on your ride height. Generally for every 1" of drop you might gain half a degree of negative camber up front. It's almost double that in the rear for the same drop.

In regards to your needs for HPDE events I think it will depend on what your wheel/tire setup is and how much of a cost benefit you'll gain or lose by doing front adjustable arms. You'll need to ask yourself if you're the type to adjust your toe everytime you go from street to track camber. This really depends on the ratio of street to track imo. That will help you determine what is or isn't sensible to spend your money on. My buddies all got to the point where they got sick of doing so many alignments because they would do at least 1 event a month. As a result we all just started to daily drive in track alignment form. The objective was to reduce the costs of our track tires but then we increase the costs of our street tires due to premature wear. The solution was getting a cheap daily driver setup with longer treadlife. We found that this turned out to be less costly than replacing track tires from having too much shoulder wear because we lacked enough negative camber, not to mention the cars can run way faster with a properly aligned car.

 

[mvaccaro]

What tires do you guys run on the track ?.... Last I used were the Hankook RS4s and they last ages.... would like to go that way but not quite sure about sizes.... would probably prefer to go 18" and 255 maybe

 

[P3D-R]

What tires do you guys run on the track ?.... Last I used were the Hankook RS4s and they last ages.... would like to go that way but not quite sure about sizes.... would probably prefer to go 18" and 255 maybe

There's a track setup thread that we can answer these in or I can just DM you. This might start getting really off topic from spacers. IMO, tire choice will depend on your needs/objectives. I think guys should start on slower tires that won't heat cycle out too fast while they are learning their line. Then once you hit a certain benchmark you can graduate to a faster tire. Otherwise people overdrive their tires and just waste money tbh. Same goes for other suspension/chassis mods. Work progressively so you can dial it in and isolate what it does or doesn't need. Many people just buy a whole catalog and I for the less experienced person I'm not sure if that's the best approach. I find people get much faster by investing in themselves and their understanding of the track/telemetry. The parts will help to add confidence at the limit.

 

[mvaccaro]

There's a track setup thread that we can answer these in or I can just DM you. This might start getting really off topic from spacers. IMO, tire choice will depend on your needs/objectives. I think guys should start on slower tires that won't heat cycle out too fast while they are learning their line. Then once you hit a certain benchmark you can graduate to a faster tire. Otherwise people overdrive their tires and just waste money tbh. Same goes for other suspension/chassis mods. Work progressively so you can dial it in and isolate what it does or doesn't need. Many people just buy a whole catalog and I for the less experienced person I'm not sure if that's the best approach. I find people get much faster by investing in themselves and their understanding of the track/telemetry. The parts will help to add confidence at the limit.

Sounds good...i'll continue on the other thread or PM

 

[mvaccaro]

View attachment 791081

So then 14mm front / 20mm rear would also work on the stock 20" right ? it would just still 6mm more than the picture in the rear

 

[P3D-R]

It's all dependent on where you want your rear camber to be. To fit a 20mm you'd probably need more negative camber than I personally would like to run.

 

[mvaccaro]

It's all dependent on where you want your rear camber to be. To fit a 20mm you'd probably need more negative camber than I personally would like to run.

Let's say for now on stock camber.... 20mm won't work ?

 

[CKwik240]

I see. I used to run around -1.8 in my BMW and seemed to be a good compromise between street and hpde

Thanks for the details.

So I guess if you do coil overs then you need the adjustable arms in the rear to adjust camber

What about the front. Is camber adjustable with the stock arms if you go coil overs way ?

The need for cancer adjustment does not have anything to do with running adjustable height coil overs. It has to do with ride height. Lowering springs would present the same problem. Adjustable ride height coil overs could be set at OE ridge height and not require camber adjustment as well.

And just because it's a pet peeve of mine, the term coilover refers to any spring-shock/strut assembly where the spring is over the shock/strut. It does not require adjustability. Sorry, just picking nits.

As for cheap solutions, perhaps some eccentric bolts may be available? Not sure if anyone has looked into whether or not such a solution exists.

 

[P3D-R]

Let's say for now on stock camber.... 20mm won't work ?

This is in reference to the rear and I'm consolidating the info for you. This is all dependent on ride height. Stock height and no camber adjustment I would get 14mm. Lowered and no camber adjustment I would get 20's. Lowered with camber adjustment I would get 14mm.

 

[mvaccaro]

This is in reference to the rear and I'm consolidating the info for you. This is all dependent on ride height. Stock height and no camber adjustment I would get 14mm. Lowered and no camber adjustment I would get 20's. Lowered with camber adjustment I would get 14mm.

So confusing lol

I was just going for what it was said here

20mm wheel spacers for 2022 Model 3 Performance with uberturbines

Hello all! I’m a newcomer who has recently acquired a 2022 Model 3 Performance esrlier this year and the mod itch is in full effect. Is anyone out there currently running 20mm spacers all around with the stock 2022 20inch uberturbines? I’m trying to decide on fitment and will be lowering the...

teslamotorsclub.com

Seems like the latest M3Ps don’t have fitment issues from what is said on those posts

So to summarize on stock height and camber

14mm front and rear non-studded spacers is your recommendation

Not quite sure why you would do 20mm with no camber adjustment and 14mm with camber adjustment. Shouldn’t it be the other way around? As wheel will tuck in the top more with the camber so you can go bigger

 

[P3D-R]

So confusing lol

I was just going for what it was said here

20mm wheel spacers for 2022 Model 3 Performance with uberturbines

Hello all! I’m a newcomer who has recently acquired a 2022 Model 3 Performance esrlier this year and the mod itch is in full effect. Is anyone out there currently running 20mm spacers all around with the stock 2022 20inch uberturbines? I’m trying to decide on fitment and will be lowering the...

teslamotorsclub.com

Seems like the latest M3Ps don’t have fitment issues from what is said on those posts

So to summarize on stock height and camber

14mm front and rear non-studded spacers is your recommendation

Not quite sure why you would do 20mm with no camber adjustment and 14mm with camber adjustment. Shouldn’t it be the other way around? As wheel will tuck in the top more with the camber so you can go bigger

Honestly, you're confusing me. I think you're overthinking it so just do whatever your heart tells you to do. I'll explain one more time and then I'll be stepping away from this.

When the car is at factory ride height you do not have much camber in the rear so 14mm in the rear is what I recommend.
When you lower the vehicle and opt not to purchase adjustable camber arms you gain more negative camber so you'll want a bigger spacer, ergo 20mm.
When you lower the vehicle and DO buy RUCA then you can adjust it to minimize the camber and go back to a 14mm. Once again we are getting camber arms to reduce camber not add more negative camber. Not sure if you're of the same thought process as me. For a street car less negative camber will be better.

This is as detailed as I can get.

 

[MODEL+]

So confusing lol

I was just going for what it was said here

20mm wheel spacers for 2022 Model 3 Performance with uberturbines

Hello all! I’m a newcomer who has recently acquired a 2022 Model 3 Performance esrlier this year and the mod itch is in full effect. Is anyone out there currently running 20mm spacers all around with the stock 2022 20inch uberturbines? I’m trying to decide on fitment and will be lowering the...

teslamotorsclub.com

Seems like the latest M3Ps don’t have fitment issues from what is said on those posts

So to summarize on stock height and camber

14mm front and rear non-studded spacers is your recommendation

Not quite sure why you would do 20mm with no camber adjustment and 14mm with camber adjustment. Shouldn’t it be the other way around? As wheel will tuck in the top more with the camber so you can go bigger

Rear camber arms are typically used to "correct" natural negative camber from lowering ride height. This is the most common use for these arms as you can achieve more even tire wear.

You may also use rear camber arms to dial in additional negative camber than the natural negative camber from lowering ride height. This more common to fit wider wheel/tire combo for stance or for the track.


With that being said, 14mm all-around H&R TRAK+ spacers is typically what we recommend for mildly lowered M3Ps.
14/20mm for heavily lowered M3Ps w/o rear negative camber "correction".

We have all of these in-stock:

H&R TRAK+ Wheel Spacers

In-stock ready to ship. H&R TRAK+ premium hub-centric spacers for Tesla Model 3 & Model Y are made in Germany. These spacers are to be used ONLY with Factory OEM Tesla Wheels. Please use Aspira Auto Design Spacers with aftermarket wheels. 10mm - DRS Style includes extended shank lug nuts (as...

modelplusstudio.com

Danny

 

[mvaccaro]

Rear camber arms are typically used to "correct" natural negative camber from lowering ride height. This is the most common use for these arms as you can achieve more even tire wear.

You may also use rear camber arms to dial in additional negative camber than the natural negative camber from lowering ride height. This more common to fit wider wheel/tire combo for stance or for the track.


With that being said, 14mm all-around H&R TRAK+ spacers is typically what we recommend for mildly lowered M3Ps.
14/20mm for heavily lowered M3Ps w/o rear negative camber "correction"

H&R TRAK+ Wheel Spacers

In-stock ready to ship. H&R TRAK+ premium hub-centric spacers for Tesla Model 3 & Model Y are made in Germany. These spacers are to be used ONLY with Factory OEM Tesla Wheels. Please use Aspira Auto Design Spacers with aftermarket wheels. 10mm - DRS Style includes extended shank lug nuts (as...

modelplusstudio.com

Danny

what would you recommend for a non-lowered stock camber & height M3P with uberturbines ?

 

[MODEL+]

what would you recommend for a non-lowered stock camber & height M3P with uberturbines ?

Honestly, 5mm spacer kit.

Performance Hub Stepped Lip Delete Kit

This kit fills in that pesky stepped lip on Model 3 Performance hubs. Allowing you to run any regular hub-centric rings for your aftermarket wheels. 3mm = Completely flush to stepped hub lip.5mm = Additional spacing beyond the stepped lip (w/ safe thread engagement). Contact us for any...

modelplusstudio.com

14mm all-around on stock height M3P may poke a bit much for most.



Danny

 

[P3D-R]

what would you recommend for a non-lowered stock camber & height M3P with uberturbines ?

Most go 5mm front and 14mm rear. Personally I think "flush" fitments on stock suspension makes the wheel gap look bigger so I'm not a fan of doing that.

 

[mvaccaro]

Honestly, you're confusing me. I think you're overthinking it so just do whatever your heart tells you to do. I'll explain one more time and then I'll be stepping away from this.

When the car is at factory ride height you do not have much camber in the rear so 14mm in the rear is what I recommend.
When you lower the vehicle and opt not to purchase adjustable camber arms you gain more negative camber so you'll want a bigger spacer, ergo 20mm.
When you lower the vehicle and DO buy RUCA then you can adjust it to minimize the camber and go back to a 14mm. Once again we are getting camber arms to reduce camber not add more negative camber. Not sure if you're of the same thought process as me. For a street car less negative camber will be better.

This is as detailed as I can get.

I think this post cleared it out ... Model 3 Performance Spacers

so for

1. stock suspension
2. stock rotors
3. Uberturbine wheels
4. stock tires 235/35/20

studded:
18mm minimum or you can also do 20mm (20mm seems to stick out too much https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/attachments/image-jpg.635043 )

H&R slip-ons:
5mm (no lip) with OEM lug
14mm with extended thread shank style lugnuts

so seems like 5mm front / 14mm rear would be the way to go ...