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Model 3 Performance VIN - 8th Digit

If you have a Model 3 Performance, what is the 8th digit of your VIN?

  • 4

    Votes: 1 1.8%
  • A

    Votes: 2 3.6%
  • B

    Votes: 52 94.5%
  • 2

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    55
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focher

Active Member
Oct 15, 2013
1,493
3,057
Bay Area
Hi all,

I have a September 2018 Model 3 Performance. The purchase agreement shows "performance", I have the performance upgrade (ie red calipers), and track mode is available in my software. Oh, and it's definitely super fast.

My concern is that I have discovered that my VIN does not show it as a Performance. According to all documentation I can find, the drive unit is identified in the 8th digit of the VIN. From the Tesla submission at NHTSA:

Digit 8: Motor/Drive Unit
1= Single Motor – Standard
3= Single Motor - Performance
2 = Dual Motor (standard)
4 = Dual Motor (performance)
A= Single Motor – Standard
B= Dual Motor - Standard

My VIN has a B at the 8th digit. Are there any other Performance owners that can share if they also have a B or if theirs has a 4 in the 8th digit?

Thanks!
 
Can someone explain the difference between....

1 = Single Motor – Standard and A = Single Motor – Standard
2 = Dual Motor (standard) and B = Dual Motor - Standard

Digit 8: Motor/Drive Unit
1 = Single Motor – Standard
3 = Single Motor - Performance
2 = Dual Motor (standard)
4 = Dual Motor (performance)
A = Single Motor – Standard
B = Dual Motor - Standard

I have an AWD non-performance so I can understand a "2 or B"
Shouldn't the owners of AWD performance have a "4" instead of "2 or B"?
 
I have a Stealth P. Eighth digit is a B.
Would love to know how you went "stealth". I want my M3P to be a "sleeper" and to remove the rear lettering, no spoiler, and get rid of the red caliper covers. If I could go to some more discrete wheels that would also open up more All-Season tire choices. I'm not planning on racing the bloody thing, I just wanted to P version to know I had the "best" performing 3 being built. I owned a mid-range 3 for 6 months and sold to but this one
 
Would love to know how you went "stealth". I want my M3P to be a "sleeper" and to remove the rear lettering, no spoiler, and get rid of the red caliper covers. If I could go to some more discrete wheels that would also open up more All-Season tire choices. I'm not planning on racing the bloody thing, I just wanted to P version to know I had the "best" performing 3 being built. I owned a mid-range 3 for 6 months and sold to but this one


It's what some people call the P3D-

The original Performance Model 3, without the Performance Upgrade Package (20" wheels, 0.39" lower suspension, red brakes, pedals and spoiler).

A few months later they made the Upgrade Pack standard, effectively killing the P3D- which is a shame because it was the better car.
 
Hi all,

I have a September 2018 Model 3 Performance. The purchase agreement shows "performance", I have the performance upgrade (ie red calipers), and track mode is available in my software. Oh, and it's definitely super fast.

My concern is that I have discovered that my VIN does not show it as a Performance. According to all documentation I can find, the drive unit is identified in the 8th digit of the VIN. From the Tesla submission at NHTSA:

Digit 8: Motor/Drive Unit
1= Single Motor – Standard
3= Single Motor - Performance
2 = Dual Motor (standard)
4 = Dual Motor (performance)
A= Single Motor – Standard
B= Dual Motor - Standard

My VIN has a B at the 8th digit. Are there any other Performance owners that can share if they also have a B or if theirs has a 4 in the 8th digit?

Thanks!
Ergo, your documentation is wrong.
 
Why is it “the better car?”

Because it was thousands cheaper for the same on-street performance, has more wheel options available to it, came with lighter, less damage-prone wheels in the first place, and will be cheaper in the future if your brakes ever need work.

The only place the 5k for the "upgrade" package did anything for you (besides cosmetically) was on the track- where most don't go anyway, and if you DO then for that 5k you could've gotten better-than-factory brakes and comparable tires (on lighter rims) and had $ left over on the P3D- (and some have done just that)
 
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