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Model 3 Power Liftgate?

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One advantage for first time installers is I think is it looks like there are a LOT less wires required to go up into the lift gate through that rubber tubing as opposed to v1 and also Hansshow's kit which is a bit bonus!
Sorry, there were a few spelling mistakes in that post. Can't work out how to edit the post anymore.
It was meant to say

One advantage for first time installers is I think it looks like there are a LOT less wires required to go up into the lift gate through that rubber tubing as opposed to v1 and also Hansshow's kit which is a big bonus!
 
Finished v2 install. Went smoothly. The screen does flash from OPEN to OPENED when opening and closing.
But what does the screen show after it has finished opening? Does it still flash between open and opened? Is it the same on the app on your phone?
Also they claim it's extremely quiet now. It's hard if you didn't have the older one.
 
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On the car's screen. After flashing OPENED it goes back to and stays at OPEN.

In the app, it just shows the car's picture change to an open trunk. When i close it, I get the same standard "are you sure you want to open" warning message.

Can't speak to its quietness.
 
Holding up great. I think these grip the ball a little stronger than the
plastic ones, which is perfect. The paint on the ball is worn/flaked
of course, and there's friction. That makes the trunk opening now
a lot gentler and smoother. If you want to prevent failure to open in
cold weather, greasing the ball/socket is important. It's all metal on
metal now, I'm not sure what the perfect lubricant would be. It might
even be worth sanding those remaining paint flakes off the ball if
it ever sticks on you. I think @i1Tesla picked the right spring and
strut, it's actually quite gentle.

Fernand - All still well with your metal socket upgrade? For some reason I can’t seem to get over the thought that I’m installing a ticking time bomb. Was also wondering if the Abstract ocean trunk kit would take your mod or if anyone has used their kit with any luck?
 
@Pcoliver I'm not sure why it would be a hazard. You mean the metal ball socket popping off the ball? No way. The way the retaining pin clip works, it grips and blocks way better than the factory plastic one. As to using any strut with a standard plastic socket end, we know of one case where the owner's strut popped out, after months of frequent trunk opening. He put some serious wear on that plastic. A lot of people use the trunk mode with the plastic ball sockets without issues, but I figured I'd go all the way with the metal part.

I don't know the Abstract ocean trunk kit, but the metal ball socket replaces any standard plastic assembly.

As to any stress on the trunk, actually the alternate struts are only a little stronger than the original, rather on the weak side. The red spring in context is weak too. The evidence? If you don't open the Trunk for a few days and it's cold, it's too lazy to pop open. Same thing on the Frunk. So any worries about distorting the car somehow aren't realistic, as we're not dealing with big changes in forces.

Now, what I need to do is sand that ball to get rid of the leftover patches of paint, to get a very smooth metal ball. Then clean both ball and socket of paint debris, and re-lube. We'll see how that works. But no worries, mate, if you use the metal part that strut isn't going anywhere to hit anything.
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I likely won't find out until Oct/Nov when it starts raining around here again.. but that's a good point and I'd also like to know this from those who live in "wet" summer areas.

Sooo it finally started raining here, and sure enough, water drops found their way through the tail lights and into the trunk area.

I’m thinking this might be the reason why my control unit failed a few weeks ago, probably due to water ingress while I was washing the car.

Guess I’ll have to run the wires through the bumper now... not looking forward to doing the work, but with the rain forecast I think I should sooner rather than later.
 
Sooo it finally started raining here, and sure enough, water drops found their way through the tail lights and into the trunk area.

I’m thinking this might be the reason why my control unit failed a few weeks ago, probably due to water ingress while I was washing the car.

Guess I’ll have to run the wires through the bumper now... not looking forward to doing the work, but with the rain forecast I think I should sooner rather than later.
Hey Marc. Sorry to hear that.
I'm chiming in to provide another data point for anyone who will be installing this product and debating where to run the strut cables (through the tail light housing or behind the rear bumper).
I ran mine through the tail lights and have driven through lots of rains storms (some of which were very heavy) over the past month or so.
I have periodically removed the felt lining to check the area directly behind the tail lights, and have not noticed/seen any signs of water infiltration. I think using the suggested "drip loop" technique when running those cables greatly reduces or eliminates the potential for water to find its way into that tail light hole.
 
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Guangzhou Hansshow Technology Co., Ltd
 
Hey Marc. Sorry to hear that.
I'm chiming in to provide another data point for anyone who will be installing this product and debating where to run the strut cables (through the tail light housing or behind the rear bumper).
I ran mine through the tail lights and have driven through lots of rains storms (some of which were very heavy) over the past month or so.
I have periodically removed the felt lining to check the area directly behind the tail lights, and have not noticed/seen any signs of water infiltration. I think using the suggested "drip loop" technique when running those cables greatly reduces or eliminates the potential for water to find its way into that tail light hole.

Glad it's working out well for you. I did install the wires under the tail lights in such a way that they come up from underneath the holes, however my suspicion is that the thickness of the wires caused the tail lights' rubber gaskets not to sit flush enough, so water still could drip in.

Anyway, I spent some time rerouting the wires through the bumper, and it turned out not to be that much of a pain. I found a way to pass the wires through the holes just under the tail lights and around to the side of the rear bumper using a wire fisher, and I only needed to unscrew the two 10mm bolts that are just under the tail lights, and the torx screws by the wheel well. See photos below for details.

One thing I made sure when re-installing the tail lights was to make sure the wires were out of the way completely, so that the gaskets could do their job properly when the tail light screws were tightened up. There was still play in the wire when I did that, just made sure to give them more space by pulling the weather stripping away a bit per the last photo.

I'll keep everyone posted over the next week or two if this was successful in completely avoiding water ingress.

IMG_0664.jpg


IMG_0665.jpg


IMG_0668.jpg
 
So finally prepared and installed yesterday. Took most of the day as I like to take my time and make sure everything is lined up and avoid damage. Thanks to all the videos and tips from everyone on this thread. Super helpful.
Works pretty good so far expect when opening the trunk, it opens with almost a violent jerk and then slows down. I am afraid if someone is too close to the trunk would get scared :)
Anyone else encountered the trunk opening like this?
Thanks!
Hi @km100 did you work out how to fix the aggressive initial open on the trunk? I finally got around to installing mine today and it is seriously scary how fast it opens initially before it slows down to the normal speed.
 
I installed the Teslaoffer power trunk, and it works well. However, I cannot get the foot sensor to work. I have gone over the installation with Raymond Wu (including sending pics of my wire hookups), and eventually he sent me a new sensor. Still won't work.
When I short the two pins on the connector the trunk opens and closes, but when I connect it to the sensor it doesn't work.
Any ideas about this would be appreciated.
 
I installed the Teslaoffer power trunk, and it works well. However, I cannot get the foot sensor to work. I have gone over the installation with Raymond Wu (including sending pics of my wire hookups), and eventually he sent me a new sensor. Still won't work.
When I short the two pins on the connector the trunk opens and closes, but when I connect it to the sensor it doesn't work.
Any ideas about this would be appreciated.

Let me know what you come up with...I have installed the foot sensor in the bumper.....but haven’t “spliced” the wires up and connected yet. LOVING The Frunk and Trunk kits though!

Ski
 
On the car's screen. After flashing OPENED it goes back to and stays at OPEN.

In the app, it just shows the car's picture change to an open trunk. When i close it, I get the same standard "are you sure you want to open" warning message.

Can't speak to its quietness.

On the Hansshow v2 kit, do the trunk lights stay on when the trunk is open or do they flash?
 
So I'm still on the fence as to whether I should go ahead and get the power frunk and the power trunk with foot sensor. I would be getting both or neither. But also debating on whether to get the Hansshow ones or the Teslaoffer ones. In the above post, Hansshow has a pretty good deal where if you get both, it would be $816.90 with the above coupon code ( a decent discount from the regular $1,050.00 price). I went onto Teslaoffer and getting the same thing would bring the price to $878.00. I am not aware of any Black Friday coupon code for Teslaoffer.

My understanding is that the front trunk for both companies are the same product. However, my understanding for the rear trunks are a little different. IIRC, with the Teslaoffer one, you'd have to connect to the CAN, which, if Tesla updates the CAN, you might run into some issues with the trunk powered operation. But Teslaoffer provides quick updates and then you're good to go. Whereas the Hansshow one you don't have to connect to the CAN.

I think further differences in the trunk for each company's products included that the Hansshow one you can open and close the trunk from the Main Screen inside the car, but the Teslaoffer one you can't. I also thought that the Hansshow one wouldn't show you whether the trunk was open or closed in the app. I don't know if there's any other differences in less wires, thinner wires, and non-connected connection clips (to make it easier to fit thru the trunk rubber tube).

Looking at the Teslaoffer one, on their site, it mentioned a few "exclusive" features, including the following:
  • Open and Close the tailgate using the touch screen
  • Preserve trunk status and alert (Exclusive!)
  • Silent trunk opening (Exclusive!)
  • OEM trunk rubber protection with silicon casing structs (Exclusive!)
Not sure if the Hansshow one has the above exclusive features or not? I've also heard that they are the exact same product, just sold by 2 different companies

Personally, I'd prefer to have it as OEM as possible within the app and the main screen UI. I'd prefer that the car showed me if the trunk was open or closed versus not having any idea if it was open or closed.

So I'm not sure what everyone would suggest to be the best option out there? My other thought is that I might not install this until the spring...even though I do have a garage attached to my house, it still gets quite cold in there during the New England winter. Despite a decent deal with the Hansshow Black Friday coupon code, and the sale that Teslaoffer is having with no coupon code (is there a coupon code out there for Black Friday??), I'm wondering if I should just hold out until the Spring, when there might be a Version 3.0 or 4.0 of these products for probably about the same price.

Thoughts?
Thanks,
--Cintoman