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Model 3 Power Liftgate?

If your being curious - with the new struts I hate that I have to manually close the trunk. I hate the effort it takes to close it now, I hate looking g at the stupid springs and I hate now load squeal it makes when closing. To me it's embarrassing. In my garage at work every day I pop open the trunk and watch the guy struggle to close the trunk lid. The struts require additional effort. I think its the greatest omission outside of the heated steering wheel and lack steering of wheel display. I want a button in my trunk and like the foot sensor which the model x or s do not have. I think replacing the struts are a better solution than what comes from the factory but if we are all being honest I don't know who wants to have to manually close a trunk or have one without height adjustment. I have a 77k Model 3 P+ and can afford a 650 dollar accessory. Just like I have tint, carbon fiber center console, CF aftermarket spolierupdated custom bading and aluminum dead rest and custom mats. What I will never understand is someone posts a link about a modification and people ask why would do that. Not talking about u but I don't think one person would have said no to automatic lift gate if they had the option.
Paid 53K for a sleeper in Oct 2019, another 1K for ceramic coating, it would make your paint pop, and $300 for window tint. The full P was 59K. Wondering what a P will be priced at in 2 years when Tesla is producing close to a million/year.
 

Perry

Active Member
Jul 4, 2018
1,052
921
San Jose, CA
My 25A fuse blew on my Tesla offer power lift gate. Replaced the fuse and it keeps blowing fuses. Looks like there is a short somewhere. Tesla Offer installed my unit so I take it they probably did it correctly. Has been working fine for 6 months. Is there a shop in the Bay Area that has experience with these lift gates that can diagnose the problem or anything else that I can do to troubleshoot that is not too technical?
 

MarcG

Active Member
Oct 29, 2014
3,963
5,647
San Francisco
My 25A fuse blew on my Tesla offer power lift gate. Replaced the fuse and it keeps blowing fuses. Looks like there is a short somewhere. Tesla Offer installed my unit so I take it they probably did it correctly. Has been working fine for 6 months. Is there a shop in the Bay Area that has experience with these lift gates that can diagnose the problem or anything else that I can do to troubleshoot that is not too technical?

I had the same issue a few months ago. Turns out the power connection was being shorted in the control box (I confirmed this with an ohmmeter).

After sending these details to Warren at TeslaOffer, he just sent me another control box.

My theory is that water got into the box at some point. I had installed the kit in a way they used to recommend, which runs the power struts’ cables through the taillights.

During my control box swap, I decided to run the cables through the bumper instead (see an earlier post of mine, linked again below, for more details). I’ve had no issues since, and I’ve been in very wet conditions (in Oregon and Wyoming and Utah, not this dry winter we’ve sadly been experiencing here in California).

Model 3 Power Liftgate?

Glad it's working out well for you. I did install the wires under the tail lights in such a way that they come up from underneath the holes, however my suspicion is that the thickness of the wires caused the tail lights' rubber gaskets not to sit flush enough, so water still could drip in.

Anyway, I spent some time rerouting the wires through the bumper, and it turned out not to be that much of a pain. I found a way to pass the wires through the holes just under the tail lights and around to the side of the rear bumper using a wire fisher, and I only needed to unscrew the two 10mm bolts that are just under the tail lights, and the torx screws by the wheel well. See photos below for details.

One thing I made sure when re-installing the tail lights was to make sure the wires were out of the way completely, so that the gaskets could do their job properly when the tail light screws were tightened up. There was still play in the wire when I did that, just made sure to give them more space by pulling the weather stripping away a bit per the last photo.

I'll keep everyone posted over the next week or two if this was successful in completely avoiding water ingress.

View attachment 482178

View attachment 482179

View attachment 482180
 
Paid 53K for a sleeper in Oct 2019, another 1K for ceramic coating, it would make your paint pop, and $300 for window tint. The full P was 59K. Wondering what a P will be priced at in 2 years when Tesla is producing close to a million/year.

where did you get a quote for $300 for tint? All the quotes I’ve gotten have been at least $650.

plus $700 for chrome delete alone.
 

Perry

Active Member
Jul 4, 2018
1,052
921
San Jose, CA
I had the same issue a few months ago. Turns out the power connection was being shorted in the control box (I confirmed this with an ohmmeter).

After sending these details to Warren at TeslaOffer, he just sent me another control box.

My theory is that water got into the box at some point. I had installed the kit in a way they used to recommend, which runs the power struts’ cables through the taillights.

During my control box swap, I decided to run the cables through the bumper instead (see an earlier post of mine, linked again below, for more details). I’ve had no issues since, and I’ve been in very wet conditions (in Oregon and Wyoming and Utah, not this dry winter we’ve sadly been experiencing here in California).

Model 3 Power Liftgate?
Which is that control box? Is it the one that has the memory card slot for firmware update? I have an ohm meter. What leads do I need to check with it and what value? They did indeed install the cables through the tail lights but underneath them. But we have not had any rains where I live for over a month and this just occurred yesterday. I highly doubt there is any humidity there left from that long ago especially that we've had nothing by warm and sunny days for the past several weeks, some up to 80F.
 

MarcG

Active Member
Oct 29, 2014
3,963
5,647
San Francisco
Which is that control box? Is it the one that has the memory card slot for firmware update? I have an ohm meter. What leads do I need to check with it and what value? They did indeed install the cables through the tail lights but underneath them. But we have not had any rains where I live for over a month and this just occurred yesterday. I highly doubt there is any humidity there left from that long ago especially that we've had nothing by warm and sunny days for the past several weeks, some up to 80F.

Yes, the control box is the one that takes the microSD card.

Check the purple connector slot that has two pins and is located on the furthest right by itself, next to the microSD card slot (see image below).

Put the leads of your ohmmeter on each of the pins in that slot. If it reads 0 or close to zero, well.. you have a short and that's why you're blowing fuses.

Image.jpg
 
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Perry

Active Member
Jul 4, 2018
1,052
921
San Jose, CA
Yes, the control box is the one that takes the microSD card.

Check the purple connector slot that has two pins and is located on the furthest right by itself, next to the microSD card slot (see image below).

Put the leads of your ohmmeter on each of the pins in that slot. If it reads 0 or close to zero, well.. you have a short and that's why you're blowing fuses.

View attachment 515363
I put the ohm meter on the leads of the fuse container with no fuse in it and it read full continuity. Does that make sense? Then I put a new fuse in it and this time the trunk was open. I closed the trunk from the app and it worked fine but then I tried to open it and the fuse popped. So the problem seems to be only when opening since I tried to close again with a new fuse and no problem. Does that tell me anything?
 

BM3B

“beaver”
Mar 8, 2019
865
1,105
Los Angeles, CA
I ordered and installed the V3 Hannshow power trunk on my Model 3, I bought it for $400 through BoringMod on Etsy. It was a PITA taking at least 10 hours and I didn't even install the foot sensor. Their instruction guide has huge gaps and I had to watch 3 different videos to finish the install. I just got it running this morning, it's smooth and nice, I am trying to adjust the jump it makes when I open the trunk.

Here was my install process:

1. Make sure you have all the parts, my kit was missing the controller! That added 2 weeks delay
2. Follow DIY guide
Tesla Model 3 electric tailgate installation instructions - Version 3.0 | Intelligentized Auto Parts | Hansshow

But these are terrible and miss many important steps and pictures. I had to watch older install videos of V2 that helped with the first half especially the tail light removal and install.

3. Hardest part was installing the connectors under the rear shelf. I found no videos showing how to do this, I read the DIY guide but it was very confusing.
4. To install the battery connection I had to watch this video

I had to buy a metric socket set (Amazon) + T45 socket head (Ace Hardware).

Now to close it all up SMH...
 

MP3Mike

Well-Known Member
Feb 1, 2016
17,237
41,823
Oregon
But these are terrible and miss many important steps and pictures. I had to watch older install videos of V2 that helped with the first half especially the tail light removal and install.


3. Hardest part was installing the connectors under the rear shelf. I found no videos showing how to do this, I read the DIY guide but it was very confusing.
4. To install the battery connection I had to watch this video

Did you watch the Electrified Garage video? It looked very complete to me:

 

BM3B

“beaver”
Mar 8, 2019
865
1,105
Los Angeles, CA
Did you watch the Electrified Garage video? It looked very complete to me:

Thanks Mike, no I wasn't able to find that excellent video earlier. I should have asked you wise users here! Lesson learned. The only difference for my install is I went all the way to the front 12 V battery, his shortcut to the 12V connector under the rear seat is a good one, I recall hearing about that for other mods.

It think my latch may be a bit misaligned, causing the pop when I open it, I'll check the latch from inside the trunk so I can align it properly.

This video is great, I will add it to another thread where I posted and let BoringMod know to share this video. It would have saved me hours.
 

BM3B

“beaver”
Mar 8, 2019
865
1,105
Los Angeles, CA
Also I wanted to recognize the good customer service from Dave at @BoringMod he was able to get the controller drop shipped same day (took 10 days to arrive but that's due to covid-19 delays). Also he sent me a black license plate holder for my trouble. With this video that Mike shared I feel comfortable recommending it. Watch it first, order the tools you need, and don't forget the glass cleaner :)
 
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BoringMod

Former Vendor
Sep 3, 2019
148
47
So Cal
Thanks for the props and yes send me a Pm if you guys want to get in on a group buy discount. Props to electrified garage for the great install video on v3!!!
Also I wanted to recognize the good customer service from Dave at @BoringMod he was able to get the controller drop shipped same day (took 10 days to arrive but that's due to covid-19 delays). Also he sent me a black license plate holder for my trouble. With this video that Mike shared I feel comfortable recommending it. Watch it first, order the tools you need, and don't forget the glass cleaner :)
 
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Reactions: BM3B

P3dStealth

Active Member
Nov 12, 2019
1,058
1,307
USA
My tailgate stopped working. Was there a Tesla update that could have broken it? Anyone else have this problem?
Yes there is an update. Go to the teslaoffer site and it has a link to their github. Download firmware version 465. You have to hold the brake now to use touch screen close. I actually like it better that way because the screen shows the right status.
 
My Tesla Offer (now EV Offer) power lift gate stopped working after working fine for 1.5 years all of a sudden on my Sep 2018 Model 3. I've been working with their tech support messaging via Telegram, which they have been very helpful while troubleshooting. We still haven't been able to identify the issue so wanted to share here.

They sent me their new control unit v2.5 which I tried but still not working. I am still able to open and close the trunk by pressing the exterior button and manually moving but since the control unit is not working, it does not pull the trunk completely closed to seal. I get one blink on the control unit every 20-30 seconds. When I manually open or close the trunk, the light on the control unit turns on and I hear a beep. They had me check the power wire and ground wire with multimeter to ensure they are working properly. I've also checked the fuse where I tapped 12v power near the foot pedals.

Running out of troubleshooting ideas. Let me know if anyone has any ideas, thanks!
 

Fernand

Active Member
Mar 22, 2019
1,645
1,849
Northern california
Sadly the replacement struts (for the $35 method) seem to have lost force over 2 years, and the rear trunk especially no longer lifts by itself. Anybody know a fix? The frunk still opens lazily, as long as it's not too cold :rolleyes:

Has the originator of the strut swap hack posted anything?
 
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