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Model 3 Power Liftgate?

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Just finished installing the liftgate. Everything works except for the foot sensor. I ran all the wires correctly according to the instructions. I noticed from the youtube installation videos, some poeple had the green, red, white wires for the foot sensor. The wires I received were green, red, and yellow. I tapped the green wire with the purple wire, red wire with the 12v. I connected the ground using the nut for grounding and yellow wire I left alone. I also tried to interchange the wiring of yellow and red to the 12v but still does not work. Anyone have clues?

Your wiring are correct. I was facing same issue before.The sensor won't register slow kick or long kick, you need to do faster kick, short kick, like 0.5S kick. After a successfully registered kick(you can hear a light click sound about 1 second after done the kick), there are 2 to 3 seconds delay to release the lid, so after a failure kick, wait for couple seconds before try another kick.
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Update:

@MarcG Thanks for the big tip!
I rechecked the wiretap on the purple wire and noticed that the purple wiring wasn't pieced enough to make a good connection. I made the hole bigger so there's more metal to metal contact and now it works!

Well done! Glad I was able to help.

On my end, after tucking away all the wires neatly and reassembling all the trim panels, the trunk button I installed in the driver footwell area stopped working.. hmm this one is going to be a bigger pain to troubleshoot.
 
On my end, after tucking away all the wires neatly and reassembling all the trim panels, the trunk button I installed in the driver footwell area stopped working.. hmm this one is going to be a bigger pain to troubleshoot.

Ok figured out my issue: the optional button connector wasn't pushed in all the way into the CAN wire bundle.. easy fix.

I've put together a short video on my installation tips here:

 
I got mine installed this weekend. It was a lot of work and took me around 4hrs to finish. I haven't got the foot sensor done yet. I was able to easily run the wire using 12G copper house wire and lubricant. The hard part for me was getting to the power source under the dash. There are connectors in the way and it's a tight fit.

I'm not a fan of running the wires through the tail light holes but I didn't really want to drill a hole so I still did it.
 
Just wondering for those of you that have installed the kit and put the wires through the tail light holes, it looks like it would possibly let water in through there in the rain. Does it keep the trunk dry still?

I likely won't find out until Oct/Nov when it starts raining around here again.. but that's a good point and I'd also like to know this from those who live in "wet" summer areas.
 
Just wondering for those of you that have installed the kit and put the wires through the tail light holes, it looks like it would possibly let water in through there in the rain. Does it keep the trunk dry still?
I ended up running the cables down and then loop it up and into the hole. If the water runs down the cable then it would have to fight gravity to get into the hole.
 
Looks like Tesla Offer uploaded a new video to deal with making it a bit quieter when opening.

Thanks for sharing! After installing mine I did notice the noise and thought it came from the extra new connectors in the liftgate that were a little loose, but even after padding them the noise was still present.

It hasn't bothered me too much yet but I can see the benefit of trying to quiet it down. Now I need to figure out if it's worth the risk of removing the liftgate panel again, those pesky green fastening clips tend to break easily..
 
They come to your house.

Also: the $300 installation charge includes expedited shipping from Hong Kong, which you usually have to pay extra for. Mine shipped this morning and will be delivered tomorrow.
How do you know when it ships? I paid for parts and install in 7/22/19 and have not heard anything from them. They only have the install offer till 7/30/19 and it's getting close to it.
 
Just finished mine and worked on the first try. When installing the kick sensor.
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My tip is tape up the quarter
panels above the bumper lip. There is a metal clip on the bumper that can scratch the paint. Took 5 hours total but worth it.
 
If the car is locked, and you approach the car with your phone key in your pocket/purse, can you use the foot sensor to pop the trunk open? Or do you have to unlock the car (by pulling door handle) first before the foot sensor becomes active?

You can use the foot sensor to open the trunk without having to unlock the car by pulling on a door handle, assuming your phone is close by to unlock your car.
 
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Thanks for sharing! After installing mine I did notice the noise and thought it came from the extra new connectors in the liftgate that were a little loose, but even after padding them the noise was still present.

It hasn't bothered me too much yet but I can see the benefit of trying to quiet it down. Now I need to figure out if it's worth the risk of removing the liftgate panel again, those pesky green fastening clips tend to break easily..
After my install the loud unlatching noise seem to be coming from the top latch which was not replaced. Why did this part become more noisy after the install when it was not touched?
 
After my install the loud unlatching noise seem to be coming from the top latch which was not replaced. Why did this part become more noisy after the install when it was not touched?

Good question, I haven't had time to play with it but my guess is that the replacement latch is doing something to the liftgate portion upon unlocking that causes it to wiggle back more than a manual opening.

Btw heads-up that 2019.28.2 apparently causes issues with the foot sensor responsiveness. I received an email from Warren @ TeslaOffer with the following details:

<< We observed that there is an update on the CAN ID for Model 3 with v9.0 2019.28.2 or after. This update mainly affect the users with foot sensors installed. Please perform the update as soon as possible. >>

And by the bold text they mean the TeslaOffer firmware update, which was attached to the email.
If you have the kit and didn't get the email from Warren, PM me and I can send you the update file.
 
After my install the loud unlatching noise seem to be coming from the top latch which was not replaced. Why did this part become more noisy after the install when it was not touched?

It's because the trunk opens more aggressively than when you just normally pop the latch, so it causes a slapping motion.

See this earlier post in the thread showing you how to fix it if it bothers you:
Model 3 Power Liftgate?