Great info, seems I should try this before bother Tesla during the pandemic. I am not happy, but still have confidence given the battery warranty still have more than 7 yrs left.
Model 3 Range decreased again...
- Thread starter bigroccrek
- Start date
- Status
You could schedule a service appt and note this information even while trying any tips/tricks, they "should" then log into your vehicle remotely to check it out then go from there. Tesla doesn't want you coming into them anymore than you want to go in, they're all about software adjustments. You're under warranty and it's on them to fix your vehicle. I just want to confirm, when the vehicle is home that it's plugged in correct?
Also, just so you know, if you'd like to reply easily to multiple posts just hit the " + QUOTE button next to the reply button, you can hit that for all the posts you'd like to reply and combine it into one post. Makes it easier than hitting reply on multiple posts and it's all in one.
Good luck!
That’s why everyone says 3 times not just once, charging at 70% it will stay low. No issues at 90% where the battery likes to be.
Fred
Thanks for your suggestion!
I just scheduled a service appointment and told them I prefer online diagnosis in the comment, hope they can contact me with email.
timmy818
Member
How often? I guest it only depends on how often your car have problems that concerns you and you think Tesla should fix it?
Had scheduled Tesla service last week and asked for remote diagnosis, this is what they gave back to me. The representative told me no problem found, well I trust this claim but the later explanation of this "minor decrease" make me not feeling so confident about his knowledge. I sincerely hope he is just a representative at customer support, not the Tesla engineer who did the diagnosis.
sduck
Mr. Duck
That's just the standard copy and paste thing they send to everyone. But your teslafi graph from a page back is pretty alarming - that was a week or so ago, is it still trending down? That's a crazy low number, and should have triggered something at tesla. My car is twice as old as yours, and while it dipped pretty low recently, it's nowhere that low.
I'd advise getting proactive about this. Do a mountainpass style reset of the battery. Do at least one more complete depletion-recharge cycle - run it down as low as you dare (1%), charge to 100%. And then use the charging cycle technique I posted about a page back - these things got my battery back to a normal number over the course of several weeks. If doing these things now (not in the past - lets move on to now) don't get your numbers back up to normal, then it's new battery time.
Edit: you haven't mentioned driving style, but have mentioned that your wife also drives it. Do either of you have especially heavy feet? If so, you might try cooling it for a bit, see if that helps. It's not really supposed to make a big difference, but it does seem to in my case, at least a little.
I'd advise getting proactive about this. Do a mountainpass style reset of the battery. Do at least one more complete depletion-recharge cycle - run it down as low as you dare (1%), charge to 100%. And then use the charging cycle technique I posted about a page back - these things got my battery back to a normal number over the course of several weeks. If doing these things now (not in the past - lets move on to now) don't get your numbers back up to normal, then it's new battery time.
Edit: you haven't mentioned driving style, but have mentioned that your wife also drives it. Do either of you have especially heavy feet? If so, you might try cooling it for a bit, see if that helps. It's not really supposed to make a big difference, but it does seem to in my case, at least a little.
Last edited:
Mind explain what a mountainpass style reset is? Is that just a fancy name from running it down to 1% and charging to 100%?
Mind explaining what a mountainpass style reset is? Is that just a fancy name from running it down to 1% and charging to 100%?
sduck
Mr. Duck
Here - googled it for you - Tesla Model 3 Hard Reset | Mountain Pass Performance
BTW, I was advised by a mobile service tech that there is a problem with these instructions, and he advised that if you were going to do this to extend the time the main battery is disconnected to over 10 minutes. And he proceeded to give me a long technical reason why, most of which I've forgotten but there were boot loops involved. You don't want those.
BTW, I was advised by a mobile service tech that there is a problem with these instructions, and he advised that if you were going to do this to extend the time the main battery is disconnected to over 10 minutes. And he proceeded to give me a long technical reason why, most of which I've forgotten but there were boot loops involved. You don't want those.
Last edited:
I'm sorry man. It sucks. Really.
I've also lost a significant amount of energy retention. Not as bad as you of course.
And yes. Talking with the SC won't help. I also get similar explanations: "Everything is normal" ©
I've been tempted to make some public noise about outlier cars such as yours. I always postpone it. But it's so frustrating I don't discard going full speed and finally publish this Website (I already have a very good domain name) and explain publicly that getting a Tesla is like purchasing a lottery ticket.
Yes. A 17.7% loss in a year is a shame but it's under the guarantee conditions.
Can you do anything legal against them? Probably not. But we should at least explain what's going on so that no other people know before purchasing.
I'm at 9.2% loss from the NFP using the OBD diagnostics port. It's frustrating when you see people with only 2/3% loss having used supercharger a lot more and having x3 more kms than me.
This randomness is what makes me crazy. You get a car and assume it will be the same as the next one.
I assumed that the battery could degrade *BASED ONLY ON HOW I USED IT*. Instead the biggest factor is *HOW LUCKY YOU WERE*.
That is the reason I'm so mad at Tesla. They gave me recommendations to take care of the battery. They never mentioned batteries are so inconsistent and that they sell outlier batteries that they won't replace unless they are 30% worse than the rest.
Battery Lottery.
Last edited:
EnrgyNDpndnce
Member
Are you 100% sure you have experienced ACTUAL RANGE LOSS as opposed to displayed range loss? Because these are 2 very different things. For both you and the OP, I suggest driving your car on a controlled test and control the variables (climate control, elevation, speed and acceleration etc) as much as possible. Run the car from full to empty and record the ACTUAL MILES YOU DRIVE using the trip odometer. There is a good chance you’re experience rated range loss and not actual range loss. Of course the only way you can be sure is if you had done this prior to your Issue but you can start now and track and further range loss.
I got the Model 3 SR+ that only came with non plus capacity... As long as the car “works” they aren’t going to do anything about it. (Maybe when -31%..? but again: capacity is secret they tell you)
I’ve tried almost everything but 208-211 is average rated range left. (44-45 kWh useable)
We got it like that. I have technical knowhow (built
My own EV-Moped) and a car mechanic license. Also have ScanMyTesla which confirms our Low capacity. Feel free to contact me or add me on your website!
(have seen up to 86mV imbalance at sub 30% SoC)
jelloslug
Active Member
Have you actually used the entire charge and checked to see if the range guess on the screen is correct?
sduck
Mr. Duck
In reply to you and EnrgyNDpndnce above, note that most of the people posting issues in this thread are using teslafi or similar 3rd party sources, which do these basic things - taking the numbers the car is reporting and comparing it to real life things like the actual miles driven. So yes, we know what the numbers the tesla thinks, and what the numbers in real life are, these software devices make it easy to compare the two of them.
Yes. For about 8 of the 9 months we own the car!
Drive it from 100% down to 5-10% frequeuntly and when possible do that on purpose.
Same for from 90 to 10% but regular daily charge was 90%
With a 90% charge it has less then 40kWh useable capacity...
The worst thing is that -10 to -15 % means some superchargers (rarely use those) are out of reach or require a 95% charge instead charging to 79-80%...
Same for when I visit my parents, it now can’t be done on a single charge.
A friend his same SR+ charges to 85% and get the same range as us with 100% (or even better, because at 100% you loose regen and in reality only use it for trips..)
My thoughts exactly. Does this OP think THEIR situation is unique?!?
sduck
Mr. Duck
Actually this thread has become a catch-all for quite a few posters with similar problems. Instead of dismissing it out of hand, try reading it all, and posting helpful advice if you have any instead of just dismissing it with a condescending post. Or, if it doesn't concern you, just scroll on by.
I went ahead and tried this even though I barely drive nowadays. I think since this last post of mine in July, I only charged my car to 90% 4 times, each time I let it run down to at least 30% before charging. I purposely tried to drive a little more often these past few months and it still took me on average over a week to go from 90%-30% Though I didn't ever charge it to 100%, at 90%, my predicted range is now roughly 279 miles, which extrapolated to 100% is around 310. Compared to the extrapolated 290-295 miles at 100% before this little experiment, I'd say it really helped a lot.
- Status
Similar threads
