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Model 3 SR+ LFP Battery Range, Degradation, etc Discussion

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Yeah, the SR+ RWD is amazingly efficient - lighter weight without the extra drag of the front drivetrain results in superb efficiency even compared to the AWD Model 3, but add in even more weight and bigger frontal area of the Model Y and larger wheels/tires (more aerodynamic drag and rolling resistance) and you get to the ~25% reduction in energy consumption for a given distance.
The other interesting fact, which many said before, is that the range is “the same” in practical terms, considering that I only charge till 70% every day, and my wife always charges at 100%. :p
I know, I know, I could charge up to 90%, but I really haven’t a need to do so. Therefore, for the battery health (on the MYLR) I keep it at 70%.
 
Hello,

We all agree that the new LFP battery can be charged to 100% and that on a daily basis. So I work from home and obviously don’t drive daily. The same for my wife, so we drive a few kms during the week, and a bit more on the weekend. So my question, lets say Monday I’m at 100% do some errands come back home at 95%. No driving on Tuesday or Wednesday. Drive on Thursday and back at home at 91% and plug in…should I’ve had plugged in on Monday, is there a % that I should consider as the minimum before I charge. Trying to see what others are doing with the LFP battery. Thanks
 
Hello,

We all agree that the new LFP battery can be charged to 100% and that on a daily basis. So I work from home and obviously don’t drive daily. The same for my wife, so we drive a few kms during the week, and a bit more on the weekend. So my question, lets say Monday I’m at 100% do some errands come back home at 95%. No driving on Tuesday or Wednesday. Drive on Thursday and back at home at 91% and plug in…should I’ve had plugged in on Monday, is there a % that I should consider as the minimum before I charge. Trying to see what others are doing with the LFP battery. Thanks
Plug it in all you want ! In fact the user manual states to always leave it plugged in all the time.
 
Looking for some opinions here as this seems the right thread for it! I had a M3 RWD LFP delivered January, I did 14,000kms and sold it 7 months later with a drop from 435>429kms or 1%. Charged it to 100% every night.

Took delivery of our Y RWD LFP a few weeks ago. After 1,000kms it's dropped from 435>409 or 6%. Identical charging strategies. Anyone seen similar degradation drops?
 
Looking for some opinions here as this seems the right thread for it! I had a M3 RWD LFP delivered January, I did 14,000kms and sold it 7 months later with a drop from 435>429kms or 1%. Charged it to 100% every night.

Took delivery of our Y RWD LFP a few weeks ago. After 1,000kms it's dropped from 435>409 or 6%. Identical charging strategies. Anyone seen similar degradation drops?
WLTP range is 491km vs 455km. No idea the EPA rated ranges (which determine these displays) since RWD Model Y does not exist in US. But are you sure Model 3 and Model Y actually started at the same range? Seems unlikely.
 
WLTP range is 491km vs 455km. No idea the EPA rated ranges (which determine these displays) since RWD Model Y does not exist in US. But are you sure Model 3 and Model Y actually started at the same range? Seems unlikely.
Yep 435km on delivery for both. I use Teslafi for both of the them and they both started at something like 434.8. I agree it seems stupid showing 435 on both when the Y is clearly less efficient but that’s how they came. Anyone got insight on such rapid loss after <620 miles?
 
Anyone got insight on such rapid loss after <620 miles
Perhaps a software update to provide the correct range? Have you updated software at all?

Anyway if you know the initial capacity of the LFP (I assume 60.5kWh like the US Model 3 RWD, but not certain since I do not follow all global variants!), then you can use the energy screen method (see sticky) to give you your current capacity. (Note this method gives a minimum value for your capacity when your capacity is greater than the degradation threshold.)

If it is 60-61kWh (again, assuming that is the right number), it’s just a software change that increased the constant and reduced your rated range with no impact on capacity or range.

The Model Y RWD is very new and this sort of weird constant updating does happen on new models (just one time!). Well documented.

Just an idea. Was the “loss” very sudden on TeslaFi? If it was gradual over weeks, not software. If instant, nearly certainly software.
 
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Perhaps a software update to provide the correct range? Have you updated software at all?

The range drop occurred when I went away for a week on 28.2 and left the car plugged in. 28.2 had maintained a 430km reading over eight charges, then I went away for a week and the range dropped. But I think you're on to something, the very next charge was on 36.2 which is where Teslafi reported the 6% capacity drop in one hit.

Anyway if you know the initial capacity of the LFP (I assume 60.5kWh like the US Model 3 RWD, but not certain since I do not follow all global variants!), then you can use the energy screen method (see sticky) to give you your current capacity. (Note this method gives a minimum value for your capacity when your capacity is greater than the degradation threshold.)

Yeh been using energy app method since I purchased, I got 59.85 kWh after purchase and now I'm getting 56.55 kWh.

If it is 60-61kWh (again, assuming that is the right number), it’s just a software change that increased the constant and reduced your rated range with no impact on capacity or range.

The Model Y RWD is very new and this sort of weird constant updating does happen on new models (just one time!). Well documented.

Just an idea. Was the “loss” very sudden on TeslaFi? If it was gradual over weeks, not software. If instant, nearly certainly software.
Thanks for your insight. It's booked in for a service to investigate this (and a rough brake pedal... weird). Will report outcome. Really don't want 5% loss after a month!
 
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Yeh been using energy app method since I purchased, I got 59.85 kWh after purchase and now I'm getting 56.55 kWh.
This would suggest it is “real” (insofar as the estimate ever is).

I am not aware of the energy app estimate being thrown off by constant changes though there have been examples in recent memory which it DID yield wrong results in certain specific scenarios (involving wheel selection changes). There’s always the possibility of a new bug.

Anyway there have also been sudden drops in estimates that have subsequently recovered so just drive the car through whole SOC range and see what happens.

This seems like a lot of capacity drop for an LFP in a short time, coming out of winter. Seems unlikely (or you may be very unlucky of course). Have definitely not been seeing such reports routinely.

Anyway Tesla will tell you nothing. But there is new Service Mode battery test I guess, etc. but seem hardly worthwhile vs. just driving the cr*p out of the thing.
 
Looking for some opinions here as this seems the right thread for it! I had a M3 RWD LFP delivered January, I did 14,000kms and sold it 7 months later with a drop from 435>429kms or 1%. Charged it to 100% every night.

Took delivery of our Y RWD LFP a few weeks ago. After 1,000kms it's dropped from 435>409 or 6%. Identical charging strategies. Anyone seen similar degradation drops?
Are you sure your new Model Y has the LFP battery?
I was under the impression that the only LFP use is in the Model 3 RWD.
 
My 7month old car is sitting at 17,000km so far and I’m getting 429km at 100%. Exclusively home charged @32A on a 14-50R outlet from 20%-100% since new.
Thats exactly how my M3 RWD LFP behaved. 16000kms and 428km at 100%. My MY RWD LFP has now dropped to 404km, with a calculated usable capacity via the energy app method of 56kwh. It’s now at 7% loss after 1300kms. I have run it down to 10% and back up to full but that only gained me a km for a day or two. Full Tesla service on the 31st. They in the meantime have advised me to charge to 100% every night to allow for pack balancing. This has only lost me more kms. Will update once I have had the service.
 
AFAIK, you have to enter the service mode Tesla puts it in when you go to the Service Center.

OK, so I got the car into service mode then went in to select the battery health test. But the resulting message box was saying that the car needed to be less than 50% charged and had to be plugged in, and it would require (24?) hours to discharge and re-charge to complete the test. At which point I canceled and got back out of service mode.

Also, when I first selected the battery health test, I was required to hold up the turn signal stalk, press the brake and “key” for at least 10 seconds. I didn’t know what “key” meant so I just put the tesla key card on the console in case that might work. It worked, but what I did with the key card could easily have been irrelevant (I did not have my phone key with me at the time).
 
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