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Model 3 Stability/Drift

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Moderator comment - thread renamed and merged from "SR+ Stability/Drift" and "lack of slide"

I have an SR+ that I got in the spring. Over the summer no noticeable issues powering out of roundabouts and corners. Traction control seamed to handle it. Since the roads have got wet and tyres cold I have had a couple of wiggles from the back end. One big enough to give me a fright. So appart from the obvious remedy of being more cautious with my right foot I wondered two things;

1. how good is the traction control and has anybody ever properly lost the back end or had a serious drift in an SR+?

2. is this much different in the dual motor/ 4 wheel drive versions? Ie is there a stability benefit in the LR/P?
 
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I live on a farm in the countryside, so decided I wanted the 4wd for wet slippery roads.
But with rear drive only, for winter, if it was mine, I'd drop the rear tyre pressures and experiment. If you generally only drive alone or 2 people, I would imagine you could drop them maybe 4 or 5 psi. Maybe more?
Have to look at them afterwards to see if they look 'sad'. Obviously it'll effect the range.
It should help, a bit, but maybe not loads.
But I imagine low rolling resistance tyres, whilst good for range, probably not so good for grip?
 
I also have been driving an SR+ for most of this year and a month or so ago thought the drive was being limited.
It wasn't but traction control was cutting in so gently I hadn't noticed on some very slippy roads.

The extra low down torque compared to that available on ICE's is the difference.
The ICE has bugger all when driven sedately so slippy roads are hardly noticed unless the pedal is shoved to the metal.

On the SR+ just a touch of pedal allows a large amount of torque to be available hence far more noticeable when slippy.

My old E46 M3 had a useless torque control despite having a limited slip diff as it cut the power when pulling away on a slippy surface which caused kangarooing.

Applying power on corners will cause the car to break away as it may well reduce power as slip is reached but cannot stop sideways slippage.

As Scotty was correct in saying "Ye cannae change the laws of physics captain" .
 
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I’ve been on the occasional enthusiastic drive in my M3P. I’m very impressed with the grip and haven’t been caught out by it yet. I’d say you would have to be driving like a lunatic quite committed to get one going sideways.

I’m sure there will be plenty here soon to contradict me and say that they can do it with ease.:D
 
I’m sure there will be plenty here soon to contradict me and say that they can do it with ease.:D

In terms of a powerslide, it's only possible in track mode or with an aftermarket gadget to limit TC.
The RWD models are certainly more prone to a bit of rear end wiggle, but you'd have to be driving pretty stupidly to lose it completely in one and in standard form it's not 'driftable'.
A very small movement of the rear can feel like a massive drift to those not used to feeling it, but it's really not that dramatic.

Dropping the pressures is worth a try but it's mainly going to be down to cold, damp roads and 'summer' tyres. Fit all seasons or winters and you'll be hard pressed to lose traction in a Model 3.
 
I have an SR+ that I got in the spring. Over the summer no noticeable issues powering out of roundabouts and corners. Traction control seamed to handle it. Since the roads have got wet and tyres cold I have had a couple of wiggles from the back end. One big enough to give me a fright. So appart from the obvious remedy of being more cautious with my right foot I wondered two things;

1. how good is the traction control and has anybody ever properly lost the back end or had a serious drift in an SR+?

2. is this much different in the dual motor/ 4 wheel drive versions? Ie is there a stability benefit in the LR/P?

I've found traction control to be excellent ... far exceeding my expectations. I have put my foot down off roundabouts in wet conditions where an old school RWD would have had the car spinning off the road (I'm on winter tyres). Hint of a twitch but nothing more. I have never gone beyond the limit, though it would be interesting to experiment, but that would need a track situation. I can't see the permanently "on" traction control allowing a nice controlled drift in the SR+ I'm afraid. I'm not sure if many people will have driven both the RWD and AWD versions to compare. Clearly there is a power difference to take into account as well as the RWD/AWD. The Performance has more options in terms of making the traction control back off so that will be a whole different kettle of fish.
 
I live on a farm in the countryside, so decided I wanted the 4wd for wet slippery roads.
But with rear drive only, for winter, if it was mine, I'd drop the rear tyre pressures and experiment. If you generally only drive alone or 2 people, I would imagine you could drop them maybe 4 or 5 psi. Maybe more?
Have to look at them afterwards to see if they look 'sad'. Obviously it'll effect the range.
It should help, a bit, but maybe not loads.
But I imagine low rolling resistance tyres, whilst good for range, probably not so good for grip?

All due respect and everything but I would just highlight the fact that an SR+ is not like a normal ICE RWD. The approach of lowering rear pressures in that instance is an attempt to compensate for the relatively light back end so that you add a bit more traction (whilst actually sacrificing even more lateral control). The SR+ does not suffer lack of traction the same way because the weight distribution (because of the battery). It's more akin to a mid engined car in terms of that balance. I would suggest keeping the pressures the same all round. Perhaps a couple of pounds off if you are still on summer tyres but I've had no reason to drop pressures when on winters. I want to retain that pothole barrier in the form of a nicely pressurised tyre on the rim!!
 
In terms of a powerslide, it's only possible in track mode or with an aftermarket gadget to limit TC.
Ah, so that’s what track mode is for! I haven’t the courage, driving skills or private road necessary for me to tinker with it. That area of the menu system was consigned firmly into the ‘best off staying out of there’ category upon initial review.

I’m perfectly happy with the standard, limpet-like handling. The rest of the road-using public are unwitting beneficiaries of my contentment.
 
All due respect and everything but I would just highlight the fact that an SR+ is not like a normal ICE RWD. The approach of lowering rear pressures in that instance is an attempt to compensate for the relatively light back end so that you add a bit more traction (whilst actually sacrificing even more lateral control). The SR+ does not suffer lack of traction the same way because the weight distribution (because of the battery). It's more akin to a mid engined car in terms of that balance. I would suggest keeping the pressures the same all round. Perhaps a couple of pounds off if you are still on summer tyres but I've had no reason to drop pressures when on winters. I want to retain that pothole barrier in the form of a nicely pressurised tyre on the rim!!
One time was with the car fully loaded with gear and a rack of bikes on the back. I think that gave me a bit more tail weight and may have helped cause the back end to let go. Just to be clear it’s not done anything wild and I am not trying to drift it (I leave that to my days with a 350z) or the rally track.

It appears non of you have had any bad experience so that’s good news for when I am driving home late at night on a wet rainy day after a long shift!
 
I’ve had one scary slip in my SR+ Accelerating out of a sharp’ish’ turn in really wet conditions last winter which prompted me to ask the same question at the time but on reflection I was asking way too much from the car and how it self corrected mid slip was hugely impressive.
 
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I love rear wheel drive cars for exactly what is being described above. It adds to the fun surely!

In rainy conditions I find the car tracking as if on rails, even when pushed hard (normal driving mode). :p

It is damp mornings that cause the slippiest roads and easily noticed by dabbing the pedal but is brought under control by the most gentle of power reduction.
It may use the brakes as well to simulate a limited slip diff but to date I have been astounded how sure footed the car is and far more so than my previous "sporting" BM M3.
 
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I have the M3 LR, and on both the very wet test drive and the drives I've done in the car since I got I have found it very planted with the dual motor.

Compare that to my XKR which is rear wheel drive, I try to avoid driving in the wet as it gets sideways very quickly.

I've had a couple of XKR's - great cars. Thumping great engine in the front, fat tyres and no weight in the back - not a great combination in slippy conditions! Lovely things though. :)
 
Yep, fantastic car and very fun to drive, but boy does it like going sideways! Maybe I need a lighter right foot lol...

ooh err ... Look what I just found! SR+ Stability/Drift This article and video shows how the SR+ can be drifted! Impossible with official settings but there is a "secret" so called Dyno Mode that can be initiated, deactivating all the traction control, stability control etc intended for when testing on a dynomometer:

  1. Tap+hold the Tesla 'T' icon on the center touchscreen for about 5 seconds
  2. A dialogue box will appear saying 'Please Enter Access Code' — type in the password 'dynotest'
  3. Hit the left turn signal ON and press OK on the dialogue box

I'm not recommending this to anyone and for all I know this trick may have been changed in the software since this article in March.
 
ooh err ... Look what I just found! SR+ Stability/Drift This article and video shows how the SR+ can be drifted! Impossible with official settings but there is a "secret" so called Dyno Mode that can be initiated, deactivating all the traction control, stability control etc intended for when testing on a dynomometer:

  1. Tap+hold the Tesla 'T' icon on the center touchscreen for about 5 seconds
  2. A dialogue box will appear saying 'Please Enter Access Code' — type in the password 'dynotest'
  3. Hit the left turn signal ON and press OK on the dialogue box

I'm not recommending this to anyone and for all I know this trick may have been changed in the software since this article in March.
Dyno mode has already been disabled by Tesla.
 
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