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Model 3 subwoofer install.

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SabrToothSqrl

Active Member
Dec 5, 2014
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So, I have a 3 (duh) and it sounds fairly good for what it is, but the S sub hit harder.

I'd like to add some more actual hitting bass to my 3, without hacking it up. or causing any warranty concerns.
This is what I did in my last (2012) Wrangler, and was wondering if it would work in the 3.

Disconnect OEM sub. Use as high leads --> Sub Amp --> New sub box.

Thoughts? Unless someone can tell me the wires I'd need to pickup the sub only audio 'pre amp' from car?

Also, does anyone have pics or videos on where the 12 battery is and where they are grounding the amps?
Thanks!
 
So, I have a 3 (duh) and it sounds fairly good for what it is, but the S sub hit harder.

I'd like to add some more actual hitting bass to my 3, without hacking it up. or causing any warranty concerns.
This is what I did in my last (2012) Wrangler, and was wondering if it would work in the 3.

Disconnect OEM sub. Use as high leads --> Sub Amp --> New sub box.

Thoughts? Unless someone can tell me the wires I'd need to pickup the sub only audio 'pre amp' from car?

Also, does anyone have pics or videos on where the 12 battery is and where they are grounding the amps?
Thanks!
You mean use the existing speaker wires has high voltage leads for a larger amp that supports it like this one?
MHD750/1

Or do you mean using something like this?
LoC-22
 
So, I have a 3 (duh) and it sounds fairly good for what it is, but the S sub hit harder.

I'd like to add some more actual hitting bass to my 3, without hacking it up. or causing any warranty concerns.
This is what I did in my last (2012) Wrangler, and was wondering if it would work in the 3.

Disconnect OEM sub. Use as high leads --> Sub Amp --> New sub box.

Thoughts? Unless someone can tell me the wires I'd need to pickup the sub only audio 'pre amp' from car?

Also, does anyone have pics or videos on where the 12 battery is and where they are grounding the amps?
Thanks!
I've done it. Don't have any pics yet, but here's what I did:

tapped into the speaker leads going to stock subwoofer (tapped where they exit the stock amp on their way to stock sub)
Fed these through an AudioControl L2Ci, which converts to steady 9V line-in
RCA from L2Ci to aftermarket amp (Rockford 500W monoblock)
subwoofer in sealed 0.75 cu ft. enclosure, located in sub-trunk compartment (fits nicely and even allows me to put the lid back on). RF amp is mounted directly on box.

The 12v turn-on for Rockford amp was supplied by tapping VCleft (switched center console power)
12v power from DC-DC converter under rear seat
Grounded at same bolt as stock amplifier (though anywhere you can find bare metal will work)

Sounds quite nice, thanks in part to the pass-through window in the trunk shelf.

if you have any questions, fire away. Overall, it was WAY easier than I anticipated.
 
@SabrToothSqrl Way to keep the info coming I really appreciate it! You can estimate the subwoofer boxes volume using packing peanuts, but it's a bit of a hassle. You could likely seal off the port and drop a more powerful sub in it.

I'm very interested in what you come up with. Especially for mounting an amplifier.
 
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I used a 8" Kicker sub and amp in my 2012 Wrangler OEM sub box. It was shallow mount and designed for small air space.

I'm torn. I'd like to undertake this project, however I know that the Model 3 is only temporary for me. if I like the Y, I'm buying a Y, if not, I'm buying a CPO 2018 X in roughly 2020. So any money I put into this, takes me away from my end-game...
 
I used a 8" Kicker sub and amp in my 2012 Wrangler OEM sub box. It was shallow mount and designed for small air space.

I'm torn. I'd like to undertake this project, however I know that the Model 3 is only temporary for me. if I like the Y, I'm buying a Y, if not, I'm buying a CPO 2018 X in roughly 2020. So any money I put into this, takes me away from my end-game...

Haven’t you heard, Tesla doesn’t do CPO
 
I used a 8" Kicker sub and amp in my 2012 Wrangler OEM sub box. It was shallow mount and designed for small air space.

I'm torn. I'd like to undertake this project, however I know that the Model 3 is only temporary for me. if I like the Y, I'm buying a Y, if not, I'm buying a CPO 2018 X in roughly 2020. So any money I put into this, takes me away from my end-game...
You could always move the amp to the next car (the y is based on the 3 anyways). The and a sub isn't likely expensive enough to worry about.
 
I did some research, it appears that if you remove the rear seat bottom (no tools needed) it will exposes posts from the DC-DC converter. That can supply all the power you'd need for an amp.
<-- 4:30 in this video shows power posts.
Great video. I'm always a little apprehensive when removing covers/liner/etc., without knowing where all the connections, snaps, and wires are...

I have a nice sub from a previous car and was debating on whether to just get a DVC Bazooka and power it off the stock amp or get an amp and use my existing sub (SVC). Having the 12 volt power supply right next to the trunk (so you don't have to find/drill a hole through the firewall, route the wire all the way back) just helped me make my decision.
 
Where / how are you guys thinking about mounting the amp. It looks like there is space behind the seat, but under the carpet so ventilation might be an issue. I would prefer to mount to MDF, and mount the MDF to an existing bolt somewhere.
haven't decided yet but I usually mount amps against the seat backs with the cooling fins up to keep them out of the way and well ventilated. If I ever need to haul anything large enough to have to fold down both seat backs (I have an suv if I need to haul anything), I'll just throw a towel over it to keep it from getting scratched up.