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Model 3 subwoofer install.

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Everyone -
Just completed a sub-woofer upgrade installation to my 2 week old Model 3. Yes, the premium audio system is amazing, though certainly lacks enough low-end to satisfy the discerning ear. After reviewing videos and scouring the boards for ideas, I undertook the install which only lasted a couple of hours. That said, the install is fairly simple and you'll be amazed with the end result. Here are the steps:

Purchase the following items:
  1. Remove plastic trunk edge strip and the 3 connectors holding the trunk carpet in place. No need to remove the carpet section entirely as you'll be able to route the power wires (amp line & 12-volt for the LOC) easily underneath the carpet and up to the 12-volt connection under the rear seat on the right side of the vehicle. BTW - You'll need to remove the rear seat bottom as well. See the video on how to remove each of these item near the top of this thread.
  2. Once the power is routed, cut a small hole in the lower truck section of the carpet and pull the amp power line through as well as the amp ground and amp turn-on wire from the LOC, and finally, the RCA jack line.
  3. Prep the PAC LOC by installing butt connectors on the wires.
  4. On the LOC wire harness, you'll need to cut off 1 set of RCA jacks and strip the wires back about a 1/4".
  5. Locate the Model 3's sub-woofer and amp in the rear right corner (again, see the aforementioned video) and unplug the wire harness going into the sub-woofer box.
  6. Using the Posi Taps, install one on the green wire (pos) and one on the orange wire (neg).
  7. install the positive & negative speaker lines off of the LOC to the Posi Taps. This will carry you signal to the LOC.
  8. Connect the 12-volt line to the LOC.
  9. Splice on a couple feet of 18 gauge wire to the 12-volt turn-on on the LOC wire harness and run that line also through the lower trunk section with the other wires.
  10. In the rear, under the carpet section, grind off a 1"x1" section of the Model 3 metal to situate the ground for the amp & LOC. I used a Dremel tool with a grinder bit to perform this.
  11. Secure the ground lines with a self-tapping screw.
  12. Plug the RCA jacks from the amp, into the LOC.
  13. Situate the loaded sub-woofer enclosure into the lower trunk, as well as the amp. I installed my amp on top of the enclosure, as I had plenty of room.
  14. Finish wiring up the amp and re-install 2 of the clips to hold the carpet section to the body of the car.
  15. Check and double check your work, ensuring all connections are correct and secure.
  16. To make the final power connection; locate the 12-volt batter source (see video) and remove the red cap to provide access to the positive post.
  17. Using a ring connector, secure to the stripped end of the amp power cable & LOC 12-volt cable.
  18. Before installing on the positive power post, make sure that the interior lights are not on and that nothing is being displayed on the dash screen.
  19. Make the connection and secure with a properly sized nut.
  20. Back in the trunk, reconnect the Model 3 sub-woofer wire harness back into the OEM sub-woofer.
  21. Turn the LOC adjustment down all of the way.
  22. Adjust the amp controls to 12 o'clock.
  23. Play a song with some solid bass, as well as some quiet sections of the song and adjust the LOC until you have sound at the new sub-woofer.
  24. Adjust further until there's some distortion and then back off slightly until the distortion is gone.
  25. Make final adjustments on the Rockford Fosgate amp settings to your liking.
  26. Button up everything (rear seat bottom, carpet, etc.).
  27. Enjoy!
Hi and thank you for this detailed description. I've a novice at this. I have my subs and amp from a previous professional install but bought the other things you had mentioned like the LOC. I'm confused at a couple points. Have you found anyone with an Idiots guide with pictures to help me make sure I don't mess this up? Can you point me in the right direction?
Thank you again,
Tim
 
From my research online, it seems a oem fit install can be very simple. The main problem is Knowing what airspace the factory subwoofer box has, what is it tuned to, and what 8" subwoofer can fit within those means. Possible dealing off the port and making it a sealed box. I've been reading about 1'^3 but I'm not 190%.

I'm thinking about getting a Sundown SAM-500D for the amp and a 8" sub from sundown and see if I can get an install native to the box. There are a in-depth wiring tutorial online, so that should be the easy part.
 
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Adding a fosgate p300-10 to the trunk. Sound so much fuller and really nice tight bass. Only turn 50% gain is enough to complete the premium sound system. Now mid and high sound more clear and tight bass. Also swap out the front dash speaker. The tesla stock speaker is so tiny
 
This tang band is one of the better 8” subs and works exceptionally well in small enclosures, sensitivity is on the low side but sound quality is quite good and the price is right, I think it would work well as a direct replacement but not sure if you have enough power with the stock amp or enough room inside the enclosure with that large ceramic magnet, I think they may have a neo version of this speaker?

"Tang Band W8-740P 8" Subwoofer" from www.parts-express.com!
 
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I picked these subs because it required the least air space enclosure I could find (0.75 cubic ft) and was designed for SPL. I custom made the box. Only sacraficed 1/2 my sub trunk space but the thing is kinda heavy. 30lbs for the sub alone.
The amp is connected directly to the penthouse. I've been running my rig for over a year now w/o any problems.
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I want to be one more voice to the fact that all you may need to get rich bass and a full soundstage in a Model 3 with the premium soundsystem is to replace your lead-acid 12V battery with a lithium 12V.

After taking possession of my Model 3 Performance, I was pretty disappointed to find out that the coolest car on the planet had a pretty underwhelming sound system. Especially after reading the specs. Everything else about the Model 3 was so well thought-out and engineered, that I couldn't believe that the "premium soundsystem" on a $60k vehicle was pretty much lacking any low end, had a extremely forward soundstage, and overall sounded much worse than my Infiniti G37 that I owned before it. Sure, you can push the soundstage back, but it did nothing for the bass, and still sounded flat. No punch, no richness. Something had to be done.

A little about me: I do consider myself an audiophile. I have no relationship with any of the lithium battery replacement companies (I think Electriclove is affiliated with Ohmmu, for example). All I want is to share a fairly inexpensive, easy way to make the coolest car on the planet a little closer to perfection.

After reading several forums about the Model 3 bass issue, I was resigned to the fact that I needed to undertake this big aftermarket subwoofer project. Furthermore, it seemed that installing an amp and a new subwoofer was not lalone sufficient; after reading about the issues with the battery drain error messages, some sort of relay was required as well. I went online and bought all the supplies required. I was definitely gun-shy; I'm pretty technical, but I hadn't done one of these installs before.

I did notice that a few people here and there mentioned that a 12V lithium battery replacement alone fixed their bass issue. But of course this sounded odd. Why would it be that straightforward. After reading further in the forums, however, it seemed that replacing the battery with lithium might help avoid the dreaded "cannot maintain vehicle power" lockout after a subwoofer replacement, without needing the relay add-on. With the relay being the most intimidating part of the project for me (and with the least consensus about how to do it correctly in the forums), I committed to replacing the battery as part of the project. And hey, maybe those few forum posters are right, maybe that's all I would have to do?

Researching the lithium 12V options, it pretty much was either the afore-mentioned Ohmmu, or one other supplier, I believe it was Mountain Performance, though it seems they aren't selling them anymore. Ohmmu also made the bass improvement claim on their web page, albeit without any supporting data. I ended up going with Ohmmu, since it was less expensive overall (the mountain performance model needed an expensive steel add-on bracket to fit, whereas the Ohmmu was a drop-in replacement) and because they claim that their batteries have been used for years without the "cannot maintain vehicle power" problem if installed per their instructions. Plus, even if it didn't fix the problem, it would at least shave some pounds off the vehicle and increase its efficiency a bit.

The battery came and I installed it. I recommend using the written instructions, as the video is a bit outdated regarding the steps necessary to avoid the battery error messages.

I fired it up.

Wow. Bass.

It had punch. It was rich. You now feel the pedal vibrate with the beat. The soundstage was full and no longer forward-skewed. It was like the soundsystem sprung to life. Finally, it sounded as a premium system from a technically-obsessed car manufacturer should. And, six months in, I've had nothing in the way of error messages.

I returned all the other components. Amplifier and subwoofer replacement not required. Now, is this as good as a Reus upgrade? I'm sure not. But it's completely acceptable, whereas the stock sound was not. And, I was only out about $450. Plus, the car is lighter, and maybe there are some other advantages to having less voltage sag in the system.

Why does the battery fix the problem? I have no idea. Many of y'all with stereo installation knowledge would know better. Given that the rear speakers sounded more full after the replacement too, maybe the voltage sag from the 12V was starving the rear amplifier, and all the connected components? Either way, it works.

I hope this helps you, as it did me. Enjoy your bass!
 
I want to be one more voice to the fact that all you may need to get rich bass and a full soundstage in a Model 3 with the premium soundsystem is to replace your lead-acid 12V battery with a lithium 12V.

After taking possession of my Model 3 Performance, I was pretty disappointed to find out that the coolest car on the planet had a pretty underwhelming sound system. Especially after reading the specs. Everything else about the Model 3 was so well thought-out and engineered, that I couldn't believe that the "premium soundsystem" on a $60k vehicle was pretty much lacking any low end, had a extremely forward soundstage, and overall sounded much worse than my Infiniti G37 that I owned before it. Sure, you can push the soundstage back, but it did nothing for the bass, and still sounded flat. No punch, no richness. Something had to be done.

A little about me: I do consider myself an audiophile. I have no relationship with any of the lithium battery replacement companies (I think Electriclove is affiliated with Ohmmu, for example). All I want is to share a fairly inexpensive, easy way to make the coolest car on the planet a little closer to perfection.

After reading several forums about the Model 3 bass issue, I was resigned to the fact that I needed to undertake this big aftermarket subwoofer project. Furthermore, it seemed that installing an amp and a new subwoofer was not lalone sufficient; after reading about the issues with the battery drain error messages, some sort of relay was required as well. I went online and bought all the supplies required. I was definitely gun-shy; I'm pretty technical, but I hadn't done one of these installs before.

I did notice that a few people here and there mentioned that a 12V lithium battery replacement alone fixed their bass issue. But of course this sounded odd. Why would it be that straightforward. After reading further in the forums, however, it seemed that replacing the battery with lithium might help avoid the dreaded "cannot maintain vehicle power" lockout after a subwoofer replacement, without needing the relay add-on. With the relay being the most intimidating part of the project for me (and with the least consensus about how to do it correctly in the forums), I committed to replacing the battery as part of the project. And hey, maybe those few forum posters are right, maybe that's all I would have to do?

Researching the lithium 12V options, it pretty much was either the afore-mentioned Ohmmu, or one other supplier, I believe it was Mountain Performance, though it seems they aren't selling them anymore. Ohmmu also made the bass improvement claim on their web page, albeit without any supporting data. I ended up going with Ohmmu, since it was less expensive overall (the mountain performance model needed an expensive steel add-on bracket to fit, whereas the Ohmmu was a drop-in replacement) and because they claim that their batteries have been used for years without the "cannot maintain vehicle power" problem if installed per their instructions. Plus, even if it didn't fix the problem, it would at least shave some pounds off the vehicle and increase its efficiency a bit.

The battery came and I installed it. I recommend using the written instructions, as the video is a bit outdated regarding the steps necessary to avoid the battery error messages.

I fired it up.

Wow. Bass.

It had punch. It was rich. You now feel the pedal vibrate with the beat. The soundstage was full and no longer forward-skewed. It was like the soundsystem sprung to life. Finally, it sounded as a premium system from a technically-obsessed car manufacturer should. And, six months in, I've had nothing in the way of error messages.

I returned all the other components. Amplifier and subwoofer replacement not required. Now, is this as good as a Reus upgrade? I'm sure not. But it's completely acceptable, whereas the stock sound was not. And, I was only out about $450. Plus, the car is lighter, and maybe there are some other advantages to having less voltage sag in the system.

Why does the battery fix the problem? I have no idea. Many of y'all with stereo installation knowledge would know better. Given that the rear speakers sounded more full after the replacement too, maybe the voltage sag from the 12V was starving the rear amplifier, and all the connected components? Either way, it works.

I hope this helps you, as it did me. Enjoy your bass!


This is very interesting. I just checked the price for their battery and it's around $420. Wondering what's a better bang for the buck, $420 for a battery upgrade, or spending that money towards an actual sub and amplifier. I would imagine that the physical subwoofer upgrade would still be more noticeable, but like you mentioned, is more complicated and requires some extra HW and steps to avoid the battery error messages.
 
I personally highly doubt the battery swap does anything. The penthouse that powers the whole car and the battery when the car is on sits at 13.8-15V with my aftermarket system running full blast and that draws way more power than the stock system. Fwiw im getting a few voltage meters im going to temp connect at the amps in the rear, 12v battery and console power outlet to see how it all connects and charges due to not being a big fan of running the amps off the penthouse and just generally curious how the battery is maintained
 
i respectfully disagree. ive a 2020 model 3 (born march 20) performance with pup and i installed the ohmmu battery a couple weeks ago. i used a test song that was bass heavy and recorded from a vinyl record as an uncompressed WAV file. upon playing this song back AFTER the battery install, like my mans said up above -- "WOW. BASS" -- thats is exactly what you notice right away. there was overall more bandwidth (headroom) in the sonics and there was more depth in the stereo image. the increased headroom got rid of the harsh high freqs i was hearing at louder volumes with some high energy percussive music.

I think if anyone is looking to increase the bass or looking for better sonics out of their system, i think this is a recommended "first step" before you go hog wild and spend thousands on an aftermarket option.
 
For about 10 years i worked as a MECP certified car stereo installer about 10 years so I will admit im a little rusty but fairly confident around working with 12v audio. I just got done installing a high powered aftermarket system in my 3 that draws significantly more power than the stock system is even close to pulling.

The stereo gets power off the penthouse. Disconnect the 12v battery while the stereo is on and it will keep playing for a little while before the Tesla shuts it down. Not only that, with my stereo playing at full blast there was not even the slightest dip in voltage at the 12v battery or off the penthouse. The Ohmmu battery is not preventing sag nor voltage drops cause they do not exist due to the power output of the DC-DC converter.

Im not saying the Ohmmu isnt an upgrade but its not really doing anything to the stereo on the tesla. You cant get more power than what the convertor gives you. On a standard car you would see lights dimming and voltage drops at idle blasting a stereo, but so far no one has explained how that it would and I just explained how it doesnt improve anything that could make it better.

Maybe something else reset or the DC-DC convertor has to work differently with that battery and thats somehow affecting what you hear. I havent tracked the voltage all that long and due to Covid I havent been driving but its possible that on battery change the car starts out charging at 14.7v+ or so till it considers the battery to be fully charged and then drops the voltage down to more of a maintaining level and by replacing the battery you are resetting that charge level but that still wouldnt have anything specifically due to the Ohmmu battery.


Pics below were taken with the aftermarket stereo playing at nearly full volume from 12v battery, back at the amps off the DC-DC(cheap volt meter that reads lower that the mutlimeter), console power outlet.

pic1.jpg Pic2.jpg pic3.jpg
 
This is very interesting. I just checked the price for their battery and it's around $420. Wondering what's a better bang for the buck, $420 for a battery upgrade, or spending that money towards an actual sub and amplifier. I would imagine that the physical subwoofer upgrade would still be more noticeable, but like you mentioned, is more complicated and requires some extra HW and steps to avoid the battery error messages.

Yeah I was asking myself the same question, but with my limited expertise it would’ve been $420 for the battery either way to avoid the error messages, so it was certainly cheaper to try the battery first.
 
I personally highly doubt the battery swap does anything. The penthouse that powers the whole car and the battery when the car is on sits at 13.8-15V with my aftermarket system running full blast and that draws way more power than the stock system. Fwiw im getting a few voltage meters im going to temp connect at the amps in the rear, 12v battery and console power outlet to see how it all connects and charges due to not being a big fan of running the amps off the penthouse and just generally curious how the battery is maintained

I hear you, I doubted it too until I tried it. For whatever reason, it works.
 
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For about 10 years i worked as a MECP certified car stereo installer about 10 years so I will admit im a little rusty but fairly confident around working with 12v audio. I just got done installing a high powered aftermarket system in my 3 that draws significantly more power than the stock system is even close to pulling.

The stereo gets power off the penthouse. Disconnect the 12v battery while the stereo is on and it will keep playing for a little while before the Tesla shuts it down. Not only that, with my stereo playing at full blast there was not even the slightest dip in voltage at the 12v battery or off the penthouse. The Ohmmu battery is not preventing sag nor voltage drops cause they do not exist due to the power output of the DC-DC converter.

Im not saying the Ohmmu isnt an upgrade but its not really doing anything to the stereo on the tesla. You cant get more power than what the convertor gives you. On a standard car you would see lights dimming and voltage drops at idle blasting a stereo, but so far no one has explained how that it would and I just explained how it doesnt improve anything that could make it better.

Maybe something else reset or the DC-DC convertor has to work differently with that battery and thats somehow affecting what you hear. I havent tracked the voltage all that long and due to Covid I havent been driving but its possible that on battery change the car starts out charging at 14.7v+ or so till it considers the battery to be fully charged and then drops the voltage down to more of a maintaining level and by replacing the battery you are resetting that charge level but that still wouldnt have anything specifically due to the Ohmmu battery.


Pics below were taken with the aftermarket stereo playing at nearly full volume from 12v battery, back at the amps off the DC-DC(cheap volt meter that reads lower that the mutlimeter), console power outlet.

View attachment 540471 View attachment 540472 View attachment 540473

I wonder if @ElectricLove or someone at Ohmmu could comment on the physiology of the bass improvement, since they also claim it on their web page.
 
For what it's worth, I've monitored voltage on the 12v system for extended periods (30+ minutes) and never seen voltage fluctuate more than 0.1 - 0.2 volts sampling at 10 Hz over CAN. If there is some effect here I doubt it's related to voltage sag. It's possible I'm just missing the drop with the speed I can sample at, but you'd think you'd see something over a longer session.
 
I'd be curious about voltage drop closer to the amplifiers than the battery. But a different battery in the same location wouldn't affect that.

If there was an issue, I'd also wonder if you could put a starter pack (LiPo) temporarily near the amplifiers, and run a blind test from the front seat. "Which version of the song was using the start pack?"
 
I wonder if @ElectricLove or someone at Ohmmu could comment on the physiology of the bass improvement, since they also claim it on their web page.

Yea I wouldnt mind hearing how they claim it. There is another post on the main page discussing the same thing(Has anyone replaced their 12V battery yet?) that may have more valid info or explain it better than I am providing but basically states the same thing. Im not saying their battery isnt better or would last longer or could solve some other issues but that there is nothing special about their battery on the 3 that should make the stereo sound better. On a normal car with an alternator you see that sag and voltage drop at idle and thats why people used extra batteries and capacitors.

fwiw do you still have your old battery, maybe try charging it up to swapping between the 2 testing the voltage changes
 
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Many of you are much more knowledgeable than I am about car stereos, but I need to emphasize that the bass improvement is not subtle. It’s dramatic. This is not a placebo effect. I’d love for someone who really understands car audio to get a lithium battery and try to figure out what’s happening.
 
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