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Model 3 subwoofer install.

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How are you getting the audio signal? What is the amp connected to (the terminal under the rear seat?)
I like that design I would love to have something similar only without the acrylic etc (I like it but I also like stealth). black felt or carpet would be perfect.
Thanks! Same, that's why I opted to keep the box a little smaller so I can still use the sub trunk cover. Fits like stock so I can still utilize the trunk as needed. And audio is being ported from the stock amp terminal to an LC6 Audio control converter to the aftermarket amp.
 
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Just installed my custom box and amp from previous car

Sundown x12 with Sundown 1500 watt amp. This thing literally shakes the car apart lol. But now the trunk rattles so bad. Any tips on getting the trunk to stop rattling ?

IMG_6474.jpeg


Going to try and pull the plastic trunk lid off to dynomatt


and FYI: anyone trying to run a high powered Sub like mine off the stock battery should be fine. I was worried I'd need a separate battery but this 1500watt Sundown amp runs just fine off the stock batter :)
 
Just installed my custom box and amp from previous car

Sundown x12 with Sundown 1500 watt amp. This thing literally shakes the car apart lol. But now the trunk rattles so bad. Any tips on getting the trunk to stop rattling ?

View attachment 425716

Going to try and pull the plastic trunk lid off to dynomatt


and FYI: anyone trying to run a high powered Sub like mine off the stock battery should be fine. I was worried I'd need a separate battery but this 1500watt Sundown amp runs just fine off the stock batter :)
That's massive...looks good in that red color :)

Did you power from the stock battery from the frunk? I heard that it had caused comp. error to some users in the past.
 
Thought I'd share a custom box that fits nice and snug in the corner trunk pocket. Took me forever to finish. Cost for materials was about $65 bucks.

I Installed it and HATED IT. LOL. The bass completely overpowered the stock system. Now I'm using an old ass ported Bose Subwoofer from my Mercedes. It's got a 5.25" sub, the sound is Incredibly accurate.

I'm legit tempted to sell this thing, it's great if you want to shake your whole damn car haha. I even put a bag of stuf-it in.
 

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Thought I'd share a custom box that fits nice and snug in the corner trunk pocket. Took me forever to finish. Cost for materials was about $65 bucks.

I Installed it and HATED IT. LOL. The bass completely overpowered the stock system. Now I'm using an old ass ported Bose Subwoofer from my Mercedes. It's got a 5.25" sub, the sound is Incredibly accurate.

I'm legit tempted to sell this thing, it's great if you want to shake your whole damn car haha. I even put a bag of stuf-it in.
I'm in the same boat, haha...I got a 12" sealed and hated it because it's very loud/rumbling...went to a 10" sealed and still not somewhat satisfied... I might have to go to a 6" or 8".
I never really like cars that pass by that you can hear/feel their sub so I guess I was never a bass person.
 
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I'm in the same boat, haha...I got a 12" sealed and hated it because it's very loud/rumbling...went to a 10" sealed and still not somewhat satisfied... I might have to go to a 6" or 8".
I never really like cars that pass by that you can hear/feel their sub so I guess I was never a bass person.

I completely understand why Tesla went with an 8 inch. I'm using a 5.25 inch vented and it sounds damn good.

I've become a snob for high quality audio so a 10inch washes out all the quality.
 
I completely understand why Tesla went with an 8 inch. I'm using a 5.25 inch vented and it sounds damn good.

I've become a snob for high quality audio so a 10inch washes out all the quality.

Depends on the music you listen to. 8s and below will have a very hard time hitting 25-40hz at any reasonable level following the equal loudness sound curve (basically, flat does not mean flat to our ears, especially in low bass range Equal-loudness contour - Wikipedia).

This is all trap rap and electronic is these days. Big fat, delishish 808-like bass sounds covering the bottom melody and rhythm. You would be doing yourself a disservice by not having a properly sized and powered sub in those cases. You can determine if this is the case when you hear the beats hit but it sounds a bit dry, and then suddenly bass fills the car just for a second as this low end melody hits a frequency high enough to be reproduced by the speakers in the door. Sounds terrible once you know what you are missing.

Now, if you listen to music made before 2005 then it shouldn't be a big deal. Almost nothing gets that low besides bass drums in rock music (and rap of course but you said you are a snob so...). Bass guitar doesnt even get close.

That, and lots of old school people think reproducing proper sub bass means shaking the block as you drive by. Yes, it will boom and rumble you because that's the point, but to do that and be audible from a distance you need to consciously buy way more power than you realistically need to reproduce the lowest frequencies.

I'm in the same boat, haha...I got a 12" sealed and hated it because it's very loud/rumbling...went to a 10" sealed and still not somewhat satisfied... I might have to go to a 6" or 8".
I never really like cars that pass by that you can hear/feel their sub so I guess I was never a bass person.

Did you stand outside your car? You're not going to be bugging anyone with a single 12 inch that's sealed.

Also, any reasonable sub install will have it's own volume knob because producers in the past have been terrible at normalizing sub bass eq. I can tell which producers/masters are actually reproducing and hearing sub bass when they are working. It has gotten much better in the past 10 years though.

Finally, without a real install with it's own bass line out (not siphoning low end off another line) it will sound like absolute *sugar*. I've done it both ways. The difference is very noticeable.
 
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Depends on the music you listen to. 8s and below will have a very hard time hitting 25-40hz at any reasonable level following the equal loudness sound curve (basically, flat does not mean flat to our ears, especially in low bass range Equal-loudness contour - Wikipedia).

This is all trap rap and electronic is these days. Big fat, delishish 808-like bass sounds covering the bottom melody and rhythm. You would be doing yourself a disservice by not having a properly sized and powered sub in those cases. You can determine if this is the case when you hear the beats hit but it sounds a bit dry, and then suddenly bass fills the car just for a second as this low end melody hits a frequency high enough to be reproduced by the speakers in the door. Sounds terrible once you know what you are missing.

Now, if you listen to music made before 2005 then it shouldn't be a big deal. Almost nothing gets that low besides bass drums in rock music (and rap of course but you said you are a snob so...). Bass guitar doesnt even get close.

That, and lots of old school people think reproducing proper sub bass means shaking the block as you drive by. Yes, it will boom and rumble you because that's the point, but to do that and be audible from a distance you need to consciously buy way more power than you realistically need to reproduce the lowest frequencies.



Did you stand outside your car? You're not going to be bugging anyone with a single 12 inch that's sealed.

Also, any reasonable sub install will have it's own volume knob because producers in the past have been terrible at normalizing sub bass eq. I can tell which producers/masters are actually reproducing and hearing sub bass when they are working. It has gotten much better in the past 10 years though.

Finally, without a real install with it's own bass line out (not siphoning low end off another line) it will sound like absolute *sugar*. I've done it both ways. The difference is very noticeable.

I wouldn't be able to say if my sub is getting that low. But it being vented, it's reproducing every bass tone in my jazz music. My 10inch sealed didn't even get down that low?

I'll play some test tones and see if it's able to reproduce it.
 
I wouldn't be able to say if my sub is getting that low. But it being vented, it's reproducing every bass tone in my jazz music. My 10inch sealed didn't even get down that low?

I'll play some test tones and see if it's able to reproduce it.

If you're mostly listening to jazz then you don't have anything to worry about. There's not a lot outside of artificial sounds or natural sounds that get that low.

And yes, sealed boxes are great for a thin, accurate boom but without a port the eq curve starts dropping decibels at an unacceptably high level (for the things mentioned above). Again though, this might e fine depending on your music listening.

This is why you'll always see ported boxes on home audio systems sub woofers. That's how you get the low rumbles in movies or low bass that shakes a trunk at loud levels. It's a more accurate representation of the entire humanly audible sound range.

Now, if you wanted the mix of tight bass in a sealed box with good sub bass representation, you'd need a MASSIVE woofer. Its simply physics, not something we do because punks need to shake their cars. This also goes back to an 8" woofer vs a 12" one. When you start getting as small as an 8, those lowest frequencies are hard to push even with a ported box.

This is not accurate, but for the sake of not needing to find a sub's eq curve in a sealed vs ported, check out this image:
Google Image Result for http://i.imgbox.com/hOGI6D7g.jpg

Pretend red is sealed and blue is ported using the same sub. What many people would say is that the red is nice and flat, not boomy, and goes low enough (in reality, red would go a little farther to the left before dropping the curve). If you look at the blue one, it rises up and must be boomy like those kid's cars!! In reality, it accurately plays flat to our ears due to the human sound curves I linked above. That, and it plays LOW which I personally love feeling. Quite a different experience than other frequencies, which is why movies sound cool and impressive.

So effectively, that blue bump is required for bass to not sound nearly non existant to our ears. The model 3's sub is like the red line.
 
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If you're mostly listening to jazz then you don't have anything to worry about. There's not a lot outside of artificial sounds or natural sounds that get that low.

And yes, sealed boxes are great for a thin, accurate boom but without a port the eq curve starts dropping decibels at an unacceptably high level (for the things mentioned above). Again though, this might e fine depending on your music listening.

This is why you'll always see ported boxes on home audio systems sub woofers. That's how you get the low rumbles in movies or low bass that shakes a trunk at loud levels. It's a more accurate representation of the entire humanly audible sound range.

Now, if you wanted the mix of tight bass in a sealed box with good sub bass representation, you'd need a MASSIVE woofer. Its simply physics, not something we do because punks need to shake their cars. This also goes back to an 8" woofer vs a 12" one. When you start getting as small as an 8, those lowest frequencies are hard to push even with a ported box.

This is not accurate, but for the sake of not needing to find a sub's eq curve in a sealed vs ported, check out this image:
Google Image Result for http://i.imgbox.com/hOGI6D7g.jpg

Pretend red is sealed and blue is ported using the same sub. What many people would say is that the red is nice and flat, not boomy, and goes low enough (in reality, red would go a little farther to the left before dropping the curve). If you look at the blue one, it rises up and must be boomy like those kid's cars!! In reality, it accurately plays flat to our ears due to the human sound curves I linked above. That, and it plays LOW which I personally love feeling. Quite a different experience than other frequencies, which is why movies sound cool and impressive.

So effectively, that blue bump is required for bass to not sound nearly non existant to our ears. The model 3's sub is like the red line.

Ah I see, well I did a test and my sub tested all the way down to 25hz. for a 5.25" sub it gets damn low. I dunno wth Bose did to vent a sub that low but it works. The enclosure is ugly as hell, not like a typical horn-tube box.

I wish I could hear a premium car to hear the difference.
 
Ah I see, well I did a test and my sub tested all the way down to 25hz. for a 5.25" sub it gets damn low. I dunno wth Bose did to vent a sub that low but it works. The enclosure is ugly as hell, not like a typical horn-tube box.

I wish I could hear a premium car to hear the difference.

If it reproduces the low frequencies at a level that you are ok with, then that's that.

But yeah, if you've never heard powerful ones then you may not know what you are missing. 25-30hz should be felt by the car shaking more than heard. Above 30hz is where its audible and vibrates your body.

At 25hz you can literally feel the wave going up and down, like an earthquake. Whereas 3000 hz you'd never have the chance.
 
If it reproduces the low frequencies at a level that you are ok with, then that's that.

But yeah, if you've never heard powerful ones then you may not know what you are missing. 25-30hz should be felt by the car shaking more than heard. Above 30hz is where its audible and vibrates your body.

At 25hz you can literally feel the wave going up and down, like an earthquake. Whereas 3000 hz you'd never have the chance.

Ah, I see what you mean now. I get the 30hz feel, but the 25 was like a wave but not very powerful. I may try and vent my 10" to get lower.

Thanks for the education!
 
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I tested out more placement of the pioneer 10" shallow sealed sub and tried facing it up instead of down in the sub-trunk area and it made a significant different for me. Reduced majority of the rumbling/distortion that I hated and now I think I'm quite satisfied with my 10" sub.
 
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Just completed my install! Here's what I did:

- Bought the JL Microsub since it fits in the tire well
- Bought a wiring kit
- Poked a new hole in the grommet on the passenger side firewall (there are 2 orange wires going through it already)
- Routed power cable from the trunk, underneath the panels on the passenger side, through the grommet to the frunk
- You have to remove the panels in a certain order since some panels overlap. I had to remove almost every panel along the side of the car to get the cable through. Be careful, I broke a clip on the rear seat side rest thing.
- Connected power cable to the frunk 12v battery (Connected to frunk battery since I saw online somewhere that tesla reps recommend the frunk battery vs the rear seat power source)
- Removed trunk panels to get to the stock sub/amp (Video on page 1 of this thread)
- Tapped into the purple and brown wire pair going from the amp to stock sub
- Connected them to the high level inputs on the new amp
- Attached the ground wire to the bolt where the stock amp is being grounded
- Didn't need to attach a remote turn on wire since the amp has an option to detect audio signal to turn on / off

I got the 10" ported sub and it's pleeeenty loud enough. I'm having phase and resonance issues though - I think it's because I left the stock sub attached. I might try unplugging the stock sub to see if it helps. Anyone else have the same issues?
 
First of all, thank you for the good discussion.
I have Model 3 SR+ without subwoofer in Korea.

Please ask for a picture or information on which connector the audio signal line mentioned in the discussion is located on the rear seat.

Since I don't have a subwoofer, it's most important to know what the audio line is. Please answer me.

What color is the audio signal?
1.green wire (pos) and one on the orange wire (neg).
2.purple (positive) and brown (negative)

  1. Locate the Model 3's sub-woofer and amp in the rear right corner (again, see the aforementioned video) and unplug the wire harness going into the sub-woofer box.
  2. Using the Posi Taps, install one on the green wire (pos) and one on the orange wire (neg).