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Model 3 subwoofer install.

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Any update? I'd love to hear from the people that have actually at least attempting a more scientific approach to this.

File me a skeptic here as well. I'd consider myself pretty knowledgable in both car audio and DC systems and I can still only see 2 possible outcomes as to why anyone that installs this Ohmmu battery hears a sub difference.

1. The LA battery is faulty and can't provide the current needed. (No way this affects highs)
2. Replacing the battery causes the audio system to recalibrate which raises the gain on the sub.

I just read through this thread because I want to install a subwoofer. All was going well until someone mentioned installing an Ohmmu battery. Now I’m totally tempted to start there and then upgrade my sub. I too had a 1 farad cap in the 90’s and know the difference it made.

I just wanted to chime in and add that my December 2019 built Model 3 already had the 12v battery replaced once (I blame a faulty dashcam install). I remember the tech had to unplug a cable under the rear seat to replace the 12v battery. In any case, my audio and bass performance did not improve with the new battery. In fact, I would argue there was no change whatsoever. As an audiophile and coming from an amazing Bowers & Wilkins system (and previously Focals), the premium audio system leaves much to be desired.

After reading through this thread, I think I am going to purchase an Ohmmu because I don’t want to risk getting an error after installing a sub. If there is an improvement in soundstage and the highs lose the harshness I am hearing, this will be an added bonus. If the bass response improves, even better! The way I see it, if the battery makes the stock sub sound better, my aftermarket JL sub will definitely see an improvement.

I will share my feedback after swapping out the battery.
 
why dont you buy the battery yourself and make your own conclusions and do your own research? why does someone need to do this for you?

the main purpose of the battery is for the longevity it gives over the conventional factory one. if it provides other minimal perks to the audio system, then, bonus! :)

==
i know ones tone and mood isnt expressed in text - i assure you i am not saying this in a mean spirited way. we all have teslas here and we are a family, and sometimes we can have some little debates hither and thither, thats what fam does , but know i got nuthin but love for you bro.

my ears and experience with audio ,and car systems back in my moddin' days in the 90s, gives credence to my experience with this ohhmu battery, and it falls in line with many others who have posted similar results. ive got the premium system in my 3 perf so maybe that makes a difference over the non premium version - i dont know and couldn't care less.
 
Ok, I’ll take that as a confirmation that it does nothing for the audio. Thanks.

why dont you buy the battery yourself and make your own conclusions and do your own research? why does someone need to do this for you?

the main purpose of the battery is for the longevity it gives over the conventional factory one. if it provides other minimal perks to the audio system, then, bonus! :)

==
i know ones tone and mood isnt expressed in text - i assure you i am not saying this in a mean spirited way. we all have teslas here and we are a family, and sometimes we can have some little debates hither and thither, thats what fam does , but know i got nuthin but love for you bro.

my ears and experience with audio ,and car systems back in my moddin' days in the 90s, gives credence to my experience with this ohhmu battery, and it falls in line with many others who have posted similar results. ive got the premium system in my 3 perf so maybe that makes a difference over the non premium version - i dont know and couldn't care less.
 
Ok, I’ll take that as a confirmation that it does nothing for the audio. Thanks.
It made a small difference to my ears but it wasn’t noticeable in a frequency sweep and there was a slightly wider soundstage but again that might be placebo because there’s no way for me to measure that overall it wasn’t nearly the difference people keep making it to be and I don’t know why certain people in this forum keep trying to push people to buy it. The only tangible difference I measured is that when the car is sleeping there is less voltage drop in the ohmmu battery but when the car wakes up the dc-dc converter brings both to about 13.56V. To summarize, I wouldn’t buy it and the only reason I haven’t returned it is I can’t be bothered to do all that.
 
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Ya, exactly. While the car is on, the dc-dc converter is supporting the whole 12v system. Voltage doesn't move while the car is driving from my measurements. Has anybody measured the gauge of wire running to the rear amp? I would doubt it's hefty enough to handle amperage flux from ~14v down to whatever people think it sags to where it's distinguishable in audio quality. And again, from my measurements, I've only seen fluctuations of 0.1-.2v playing bass heavy audio as loud as I could tolerate for 30 minutes plus. There's just no way the 12v battery is doing anything.

Agree with the poster(s) above though, it's a fun argument between friends. No hard feelings. You're wrong though... [however you do the sticking out tongue emoji] :)
 
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Fwiw i installed a voltmeter that feeds directly off the 12v batt and another in the back off the penthouse. Both consistently read the same and dont noticeably fluctuate with my subs but the voltage varies from time to time but holds steady. Like right now it might be 14.4 and tomorrow it might be 13.7.
Usually if it starts high it might work its way down lower but just how the car is conditioning or charging the battery.

i put the meter in due to people having issues with the 12v but so far haven’t noticed anything odd other than when I tried to run my amps directly off the 12v batt, but my car is also only 7 months old and always on a charger.
 
Any update? I'd love to hear from the people that have actually at least attempting a more scientific approach to this.

My apologies as I've been busy and away from the forums. So I got the battery installed while on a business trip to Arizona. First of all, I do have experience with recording in home studios (rooms properly treated, expensive studio monitors, etc etc.) so I can appreciate a proper sound stage with nice separation between instruments. My wife doesn't notice such things, however we both did notice an immediate difference.

I also want to point out that my battery was perfectly fine, practically new even. My battery had just been replaced by Tesla due to faulty wiring from dash cam install that caused the 12v error code after only 3 months of ownership. I fixed the dash cam, got the battery replaced and no issues on the new battery since. Even Sean @ Ohmmu commented on how new it looked and asked why I was changing it but I digress.

On the drive from LA to Arizona, we were mostly listening to podcasts and we had the volume between 80-90% and occasionally turning it 100% of the way up because it was difficult at times to hear the dialogue. Our ears were definitely fatigued when we arrived. I stopped by Ohmmu and replaced the battery a few hours before heading back to LA. On the drive back, the first thing we noticed was that we were able to continue listening to our podcast at a lower volume - approximately 60-70% of the way up. Dialogue was much clearer and easier to hear. For my wife to notice says a lot, especially because she didn't even know why I was changing the battery so you can't say there was a placebo effect with her.

During one of our supercharging stops while she used the restroom, I finally played some tracks I've had on heavy rotation so I am very familiar with how they sounded in my car. I immediately noticed an improvement in the sound quality and the sound stage. I'm not sure my description will do it any justice, but the difference to me compared to my recording studio when I used to have entry-level M-Audio monitors and finally upgraded to Adams A7s. The sound stage opened up and seemed to have shifted forward. The music no longer sounded like it was in front by the windshield but rather right in front of me and virtually around me. It was as if I had added a new set of surround speakers behind me - at times there's this sort-of 3D effect with some music - totally cool. There is now a more clear separation between the various instruments and their location in the mix. The higher frequencies were improved, still not as crystal clear as the tweeters in my previous Bowers and Wilkins system, but pretty damn close! I was previously considering replacing the speakers in the dash but I honestly don't think that's necessary now.

And the BASS?

Let me just put it this way. Ever since installing the Ohmmu battery, I had new rattles introduced that were not there before while listening to the same songs at the same 50% volume. You can argue I am experiencing the placebo effect, but the panels in my car are only reacting to the vibrations caused by the air being pushed and for them to all of a sudden decide to rattle means something has definitely changed. The first track I played was The Box by Roddy Ricch. The bass on this track sounded pathetic previously, but it is actually acceptable now. I know it will sound even better with a subwoofer replacement, but I can actually feel the 808 fade-in on this track where before it felt like it was outside of the system's capability. Tracks like Better Now and Rockstar by Post Malone absolutely resonate in the cab and when turned up literally shake the sideview mirrors. I walked around the car while playing music and I now have a terrible rattle on the panel next to the subwoofer when the volume is above 50-60% Ever since installing the Ohmmu battery, I have spent my free time in my garage locating and addressing the various rattles but it's been worth it! All of this with modified EQ settings too! (see my notes at the end, but I had to lower the bass and treble)

I really wish I had the time to set up my condenser mic in the car and record the same song with the old battery and with the new battery because I have no doubt the difference will be noticeable. I know what I am hearing, but I also recognize the tangible differences like the new rattles that to me can't be explained otherwise. No, they're not the result of my road trip because with a December '19 build, I am fortunate to say that my interior doesn't rattle until I play music so it being caused by the speakers and not road vibrations.

I will end this by saying that I am now on the fence about buying a subwoofer because I really don't think I need it now. I am now more concerned with addressing the rattles. I just purchased Noico 80mil sound deadening on Amazon and my next project will be to address the rattle near the factory sub and to cover the entire trunk area and the doors if possible. In previous cars this alone improved the sound system and I think this is all I may need now. I will post an update whenever I finally get around to it.

PS. A quick note about my EQ settings. Ever since buying the car, my EQ was always set to this V pattern (from left to right): 6, 3, 0, 2, 4

After installing the Ohmmu battery, I now use the following EQ setting: 3 to 4, 1, 0, 1, 1-2
 
Has anybody else had problems with the LC2i? I think mine is dead. It is no longer processing the signal from the sub. I know another person that believes their LC2i died too. There is a yellow light that stays on. For me, the yellow light never comes on anymore even if I max out all the knobs.

I think the factory sub output may have killed the LC2i over time. I know it is supposed to be able to handle 400W per channel. It's hard to find an alternative. I thought about maybe trying out the new LC2i Pro.
 
Anyone else get this error after a sub install:


VCFRONT_a192


Electrical system power reduced


Vehicle may shut down unexpectedly


I have an appointment in a week to take it in to the SC but I’m curious if this was caused by a drain in my 12v and a recent update. Here’s some info about my setup.


Installed for 2+ years without issue.


2x JL 10”, JL 1200 HD, Xstatic Batcap 400


3 month old 12v (replaced after hw3 upgrade)


Due to Covid my car has been sitting for months and this was the first time out. I happen to be running my subs really hard and this happened during a particular bassy song. I’ve gotten the 12v battery needs service error before when my amp draws too much power and I just reset it but this is a much different error. I got the message as soon as I turned it up to almost full volume and as soon as the message popped up I turned the volume down and I turned off my subs and the error immediately went away and hasn’t come back since. I’ve driven it around my neighborhood a few times without my subs on and it’s been completely fine. I know that Tesla changed some things regarding the 12v in a recent update and I’m wondering if it detected a drop in voltage but instead of giving me the 12v needs service message it now gives this one instead??


I have a ohmu 12v that I removed when I took my car in for a hw3 upgrade and just haven’t gotten around to putting it back in. The reason I mention this is, I got an email from them about an error after 2020.28.6 update and having their battery installed so Tesla clearly changed something.


On another thread people have needed a new drive train after this message but it seemed very connected to my subs so while I wait I figured I’d put it on this threads radar.


Oh and I called the SC and they said this error could mean a lot of things not just the drive train and that they need to run the full diagnostics.


I’ll keep you posted what I learn from Tesla but in the meantime maybe don’t listen to killer mike so loud your rear view mirror falls down ;)
 
I did not get an error, but I've got some extreme weirdness going on with my system after that latest software update (may or may not be related).

My LC2i and Rockford Amp both come on when I start the car (LEDs are on), but the sound output is practically nonexistent. I went back to my trunk to check, and the sub IS moving, but just barely. Coincidentally (or not), I had a radar detector that also tapped into VCLeft for power, and I can't get it to turn on.

I haven't had much time to diagnose, but I feel like either I'm extremely unlucky or Tesla has done something to mess with the VCLeft connections. The issue with the amp has me truly confused, though...
 
Anyone else get this error after a sub install:


VCFRONT_a192


Electrical system power reduced


Vehicle may shut down unexpectedly


I have an appointment in a week to take it in to the SC but I’m curious if this was caused by a drain in my 12v and a recent update. Here’s some info about my setup.


Installed for 2+ years without issue.


2x JL 10”, JL 1200 HD, Xstatic Batcap 400


3 month old 12v (replaced after hw3 upgrade)


Due to Covid my car has been sitting for months and this was the first time out. I happen to be running my subs really hard and this happened during a particular bassy song. I’ve gotten the 12v battery needs service error before when my amp draws too much power and I just reset it but this is a much different error. I got the message as soon as I turned it up to almost full volume and as soon as the message popped up I turned the volume down and I turned off my subs and the error immediately went away and hasn’t come back since. I’ve driven it around my neighborhood a few times without my subs on and it’s been completely fine. I know that Tesla changed some things regarding the 12v in a recent update and I’m wondering if it detected a drop in voltage but instead of giving me the 12v needs service message it now gives this one instead??


I have a ohmu 12v that I removed when I took my car in for a hw3 upgrade and just haven’t gotten around to putting it back in. The reason I mention this is, I got an email from them about an error after 2020.28.6 update and having their battery installed so Tesla clearly changed something.


On another thread people have needed a new drive train after this message but it seemed very connected to my subs so while I wait I figured I’d put it on this threads radar.


Oh and I called the SC and they said this error could mean a lot of things not just the drive train and that they need to run the full diagnostics.


I’ll keep you posted what I learn from Tesla but in the meantime maybe don’t listen to killer mike so loud your rear view mirror falls down ;)

Something may have shorted during sub install. Try this procedure:https://www.mountainpassperformance.com/tesla-model-3-hard-reset/
It often fixes the issue.
 
Has anybody else had problems with the LC2i? I think mine is dead. It is no longer processing the signal from the sub. I know another person that believes their LC2i died too. There is a yellow light that stays on. For me, the yellow light never comes on anymore even if I max out all the knobs.

I think the factory sub output may have killed the LC2i over time. I know it is supposed to be able to handle 400W per channel. It's hard to find an alternative. I thought about maybe trying out the new LC2i Pro.
My LC2i no longer gets the yellow "overload" light, either, where it used to at about 50% if I cranked the sound all the way. It is outputting a little bit of sound to the amp, but turning the gain knob does absolutely nothing.
 
I've read there was recent changes in a software update to how the VC left functions. I believe it is no longer a switched connection. For me my remote is using a relay from the factory amp or LC2i. I had this professionally installed so I can't say for sure but I know its not coming from the VC left. Also, it's been working flawlessly for 2+ years and I trust the shop whole heartedly.
 
Amp is drawing power from the 12v by way of a xstatic bat cap, which I installed to help take the load off the 12v.

I use to install car audio for about 10 years and didnt like the idea of running power directly off the penthouse so I attempted to run it directly off the 12V battery and discovered that you cant if you have a decent amount of power. When it was running off the 12V, as soon as I started cranking it up the voltage would just start dropping, basically the penthouse or one of the computers between the 12V and the penthouse. If there is a large enough load on the battery i think the car thinks the battery is going bad and isolates or cuts charge going to the battery and it will run down. Your cap most likely has been helping this for awhile but is kind of a bandaid. I would run your cap and amps directly off the penthouse.

I only saw the voltage start dropping from a voltage meter I ran directly off the 12V, soon as I turned down the audio the voltage crept back up but I was driving and didnt want to push it to far to see what would happen. Running directly off the penthouse I havent seen the voltage fluctuate at all. I dont like it but it works and with your cap it would be even better.

Power from the penthouse runs thru VCRight to VCFront to the 12V battery and the current thru all that is either limited or is regulated so you dont get the same 200amp or whatever limit that you get off penthouse.
 
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