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Model 3 trunk cargo net project

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I recently got my Model 3 and soon noticed that it did not come with a trunk cargo net and that one was not available from third parties either. I therefore decided to implement one myself. Here is a description of my cargo net, as shown below, in Figures 1 and 2:

G:\figure1.jpg

Figure 1: Trunk cargo net stretched around the handle

G:\figure2.jpg

Figure 2: Trunk cargo net lifted

I bought the Tesla Cargo mat for Model3, and installed it normally. I assume that the WeatherTech cargo mat would work as well, but I have not seen it so am not sure.

I also bought a cargo net through Amazon:

AndyGo Car Trunk Cargo Net Fit For Merdedes Benz C250 C300 C350 CL550 CL600 CL63 AMG CL65 AMG E350 E550 GL350 GL450 R350 S350 S400 S550
by AndyGo
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0107OA94K/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_6ianCbTYX9AW4

The net comes with the clips shown in Figure 4.

In addition I needed two large buttons (see Figure 5), some black parachute cord (I used Parachute 95, but it really depends on how large are the holes in the buttons), and some multi-stranded picture frame hanging wire (see Figure 3).

First the rear hooks:

If you fold down the rear seats and push your finger down between the seat and the side wall, you will feel a round tube down there. That is the axle around which the rear seat pivots. I took the picture hanging wire and bent it to a J-shape and slipped the wire under the axle and fished it back on the other side, and then tied the wire into a loop, as shown in Figure 3:

G:\figure3.jpg

Figure 3: Rear loop (passenger side)

Note the piece of Velcro holding down the loop and the extra clip as I made the loop a bit too small and had the clip handy. You can just adjust the loop size and not use the extra clip.

Then the front of the net, shown in Figure 4:

G:\figure4.jpg

Figure 4: Cargo net front hook

I made a small cut (around 1/4” using my Leatherman Micra pocket knife) in the front corner of the trunk mat. I then threaded the parachute cord through a large button and tied the cord behind the button so I got two loops of the cord. I then used the picture hanging wire to fish the loops from behind the mat to the front and then clipped the loops to the net.

That was it. The net was a bit large, so I tied a loop to the elastic cord in the center, both front and back. You can see the rear loop in Figure 1. I could still pull up on the loop attached to the trunk well lid and the whole trunk mat lifted out of the way. Lowering the trunk well lid worked as well, except I ended up having to push down the trunk mat corners a bit, to get them to lie down better.

The other problem was that lifting the cargo net caused the trunk mat corners to lift up. I lived with it for a while but eventually decided to fix it by putting a stiff rod under the mat, as shown in Figure 5:

G:\figure5.jpg

Figure 5: The stiffener bar under the trunk mat

The stiffener bar is a bit of a kludge. I used a 1/8” x 3/4” aluminum bar in the middle and drilled two holes in it at the right spots to attach it to the side pieces. The problem with the aluminum was that I could not get it to bend enough to match the trunk bottom shape (the bar broke as I bent it to 90 degrees). So the side pieces are steel that I bought at Lowe's but they did not have a part number to them. If you decide to add the stiffener bar, you will likely have to come up with a different design.

Figure 5 also shows the button under the mat. With the stiffener bar in place the mat corners no longer lift up and I am quite satisfied with the project. I did one more improvement though. That was to buy a 1 1/4” diameter pine dowel, cut a 4.5 “ piece out of it, and drill a 3/8” hole through the middle, as shown in Figure 6:


G:\figure6.jpg

Figure 6: Handle for trunk well lid loop

The problem was that the trunk mat already made it a bit hard to reach the trunk well lid loop, and the stiffener bar under the mat lifted it a bit more. So the handle made sense. I used the same parachute cord to tie the handle to the loop, and slipped the knot in the cord inside the hole in the handle. An added benefit is that the loop in the front of the net slips around the handle which closes the front of the net, see Figure 1.

TeslaModel3TrunkNet_html_6efd1d5b.jpg
 
I recently got my Model 3 and soon noticed that it did not come with a trunk cargo net and that one was not available from third parties either. I therefore decided to implement one myself. Here is a description of my cargo net, as shown below, in Figures 1 and 2:

G:\figure1.jpg

Figure 1: Trunk cargo net stretched around the handle

G:\figure2.jpg

Figure 2: Trunk cargo net lifted

I bought the Tesla Cargo mat for Model3, and installed it normally. I assume that the WeatherTech cargo mat would work as well, but I have not seen it so am not sure.

I also bought a cargo net through Amazon:

AndyGo Car Trunk Cargo Net Fit For Merdedes Benz C250 C300 C350 CL550 CL600 CL63 AMG CL65 AMG E350 E550 GL350 GL450 R350 S350 S400 S550
by AndyGo
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0107OA94K/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_6ianCbTYX9AW4

The net comes with the clips shown in Figure 4.

In addition I needed two large buttons (see Figure 5), some black parachute cord (I used Parachute 95, but it really depends on how large are the holes in the buttons), and some multi-stranded picture frame hanging wire (see Figure 3).

First the rear hooks:

If you fold down the rear seats and push your finger down between the seat and the side wall, you will feel a round tube down there. That is the axle around which the rear seat pivots. I took the picture hanging wire and bent it to a J-shape and slipped the wire under the axle and fished it back on the other side, and then tied the wire into a loop, as shown in Figure 3:

G:\figure3.jpg

Figure 3: Rear loop (passenger side)

Note the piece of Velcro holding down the loop and the extra clip as I made the loop a bit too small and had the clip handy. You can just adjust the loop size and not use the extra clip.

Then the front of the net, shown in Figure 4:

G:\figure4.jpg

Figure 4: Cargo net front hook

I made a small cut (around 1/4” using my Leatherman Micra pocket knife) in the front corner of the trunk mat. I then threaded the parachute cord through a large button and tied the cord behind the button so I got two loops of the cord. I then used the picture hanging wire to fish the loops from behind the mat to the front and then clipped the loops to the net.

That was it. The net was a bit large, so I tied a loop to the elastic cord in the center, both front and back. You can see the rear loop in Figure 1. I could still pull up on the loop attached to the trunk well lid and the whole trunk mat lifted out of the way. Lowering the trunk well lid worked as well, except I ended up having to push down the trunk mat corners a bit, to get them to lie down better.

The other problem was that lifting the cargo net caused the trunk mat corners to lift up. I lived with it for a while but eventually decided to fix it by putting a stiff rod under the mat, as shown in Figure 5:

G:\figure5.jpg

Figure 5: The stiffener bar under the trunk mat

The stiffener bar is a bit of a kludge. I used a 1/8” x 3/4” aluminum bar in the middle and drilled two holes in it at the right spots to attach it to the side pieces. The problem with the aluminum was that I could not get it to bend enough to match the trunk bottom shape (the bar broke as I bent it to 90 degrees). So the side pieces are steel that I bought at Lowe's but they did not have a part number to them. If you decide to add the stiffener bar, you will likely have to come up with a different design.

Figure 5 also shows the button under the mat. With the stiffener bar in place the mat corners no longer lift up and I am quite satisfied with the project. I did one more improvement though. That was to buy a 1 1/4” diameter pine dowel, cut a 4.5 “ piece out of it, and drill a 3/8” hole through the middle, as shown in Figure 6:


G:\figure6.jpg

Figure 6: Handle for trunk well lid loop

The problem was that the trunk mat already made it a bit hard to reach the trunk well lid loop, and the stiffener bar under the mat lifted it a bit more. So the handle made sense. I used the same parachute cord to tie the handle to the loop, and slipped the knot in the cord inside the hole in the handle. An added benefit is that the loop in the front of the net slips around the handle which closes the front of the net, see Figure 1.

TeslaModel3TrunkNet_html_6efd1d5b.jpg
figure1.jpg
figure2.jpg
figure3.jpg
figure4.jpg
figure5.jpg
figure6.jpg
 
I installed front tie
points around the axle around which the rear seat pivots, as described
by KariK, except I ran the parachute cord around the axle instead of a
wire (which I imagined scratching some paint in there).</p>

I couldn't use his solution for rear tie points, because I don't (yet)
have a cargo mat. I decided to install mine in the well cover
instead. I don't know what the cover is made of. It's stiff
but light. I envisioned some kind of foam interior.
I was skeptical about its strength, and didn't want to break
a corner off, so I added an oak stiffener in each corner. I drilled a
5/16" hole in each stiffener and each corner of the cover. Note that
the cover rests on a shelf that's 2" wide on the sides but only 1/2"
wide at the back.</p>
<a href="https://imgur.com/ti2nxl2.jpg" target="new"><img src="https://imgur.com/ti2nxl2.jpg" width="540"></a></p>

In the picture, the wood
shavings are from my backing board. The gray material is from the
inside of the cover. </p>
<a href="https://imgur.com/HGoTrWi.jpg" target="new"><img src="https://imgur.com/HGoTrWi.jpg" width="540"></a></p>

I glued the stiffeners down with E6000 adhesive. I should probably
have used more of it.</p>
<a href="https://imgur.com/ZdFcMZ3.jpg" target="new"><img src="https://imgur.com/ZdFcMZ3.jpg" height="540"></a></p>

I weighted down the strips while the adhesive hardened overnight. I used blue tape and the drill bit for accurate placement.</p>
<a href="https://imgur.com/2lduFJk.jpg" target="new"><img src="https://imgur.com/2lduFJk.jpg" height="540"></a></p>

I used 13" of the parachute cord for each loop. With my cord, the
outer sheath tended to shrink back very quickly after being cut. I
found the best method was to melt a spot first with a candle flame (so
you can use both hands to manage the cord), then cut, then
immediately finish sealing the two ends. Double the cord, tie an
overhand knot in the two ends, and pull the loop through using fishing
line or the like.</p>
<a href="https://imgur.com/WVkSM2L.jpg" target="new"><img src="https://imgur.com/WVkSM2L.jpg" width="540"></a></p>

This is the bottom side of the finished installation.</p>
<a href="https://imgur.com/qtgGauK.jpg" target="new"><img src="https://imgur.com/qtgGauK.jpg" width="540"></a></p>

...and the top side.</p>
<a href="https://imgur.com/HVwX93a.jpg" target="new"><img src="https://imgur.com/HVwX93a.jpg" height="540"></a>
 
I installed front tie points around the axle around which the rear seat pivots, as described by KariK, except I ran the parachute cord around the axle instead of a wire (which I imagined scratching some paint in there).

I couldn't use his solution for rear tie points, because I don't (yet) have a cargo mat. I decided to install mine in the well cover instead. I don't know what the cover is made of. It's stiff but light. I envisioned some kind of foam interior. I was skeptical about its strength, and didn't want to break a corner off, so I added an oak stiffener in each corner. I drilled a 5/16" hole in each stiffener and each corner of the cover. Note that the cover rests on a shelf that's 2" wide on the sides but only 1/2" wide at the back.
anchor-1tiny.jpg


In this picture, the wood shavings are from my backing board. The gray material is from the inside of the cover.
anchor-2tiny.jpg


I glued the stiffeners down with E6000 adhesive. I should probably have used more of it.
anchor-3tiny.jpg


I weighted down the strips while the adhesive hardened overnight. I used blue tape and the drill bit for accurate placement.
anchor-4tiny.jpg


I used 13" of the parachute cord for each loop. With my cord, the outer sheath tended to shrink back very quickly after being cut. I found the best method was to melt a spot first with a candle flame (so you can use both hands to manage the cord), then cut, then immediately finish sealing the two ends. Double the cord, tie an overhand knot in the two ends, and pull the loop through using fishing line or the like.
anchor-5tiny.jpg


This is the bottom side of the finished installation.
anchor-6tiny.jpg


...and the top side:
anchor-7tiny.jpg
 
The above tie-downs in the cover work well, but I wanted at least one tie-down in the rear of the trunk that was usable when I had a mat installed. I decided to install one in the well on the left side. The D-ring anchors I found online all used metal straps meant to be fastened down with screws, rivets, or welding. I don't know how strong that piece of plastic is, or what clearance there is on the other side. I decided to build my own mounting plate and fasten it with adhesive.

01-tie-down-site-sm.jpg


I got a "1-5/16 in" (inside width) D-ring from Lowe's. The outer diameter is about 1 5/8 in.

I laid out the pattern on a block of birch and cut the two inside curves using a large Forstner bit. Note that the grain runs approximately diagonally across the plate. Next I cut the plate (about 3/8" thick) from the block with a band saw.
03-construction-sm.jpg


The D-ring sits in a dado that's just a bit wider than the kerf of my table saw. I cut that while the work piece was still long enough to control.
04-construction-sm.jpg


The top of the finished plate. All the edges along the top are rounded over except the long edge opposite the D-ring.
05-construction-sm.jpg


The top of the finished plate. All the edges along the top are rounded over except the long edge opposite the D-ring.
06-top-sm.jpg


The bottom of the plate. The long edge is rounded on the bottom to match the shelf in the well.
07-bottom-sm.jpg


I fastened the mounting plate with E6000 adhesive, which takes 24 hours to cure. I wanted to apply some pressure during that time, and there was no way to clamp it, so I fashioned this cardboard strut to wedge it in place.
08-strut-sm.jpg


This is how the wedging worked. The blue tape is to guide me when placing the plate. It can't be too far forward, because it has to be on the flat part of the shelf. Visibility is poor - I can't get my head where the camera was for this shot.
09-strut-sm.jpg


I gave the D-ring a liberal coating of petroleum jelly to keep the adhesive from sticking to it, fitted it into the dado, applied adhesive, wedged the plate in place, and let it cure for 24 hours. This is the finished installation.
10-finished-sm.jpg


Here's the trunk after installation of the trunk liner. It doesn't reach into the well on the left, so the new mounting plate is unaffected.
11-with-liner-sm.jpg


I'm happy with this tie-down. I'd still like something for the right rear corner.
 
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Reactions: KenC