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So yesterday I decided it was time to remove swap my all seasons tires/wheels (mounted on the factory 20" performance wheel) back and remove my Ohm Lightning wheels with the Michelin winter tires. Haven't really driven much since March and summer is creeping up on us already.

All four wheels were stuck to the hubs and I could not yank them loose! I had to use a BFH with several whacks to get the wheels off. Now I'm concerned something wasn't right, because I remember too that they took many turns to torque down correctly when I installed them. What could have happened here, was something not machined correctly, and did they not mate correctly to begin with? I don't think I want to put them back on again!

Pics of wheel and hub attached.

Sorry to hear about the issue, can you please send me an email and so we can look into this and get this figured out for you asap? Thank you! [email protected]

Needed to follow up on this. Jason sent another set of the Ohm lightning wheels and they had the same exact problem (don't put them on and torque them down or you'll have a hell of a time getting them off). From all the photos I took it looks pretty obvious that they weren't machined properly. So again, and finally in July, Jason suggested a fix to replace the second set of Ohm Lightning wheels with 18" Stance SF03s. I said, OK great, at this point I'm pretty torqued. I received the Stance wheels back in July, and paid out of pocket to have tires swapped.
  • A week ago I decided it was time to put the winter tires/wheels (now these are the Stance wheels) on, and lo and behold after putting a single wheel on, I once again had a heck of a time getting it off (and again had to use a BFH to to remove it from the hub). This is the SAME issue now across 3 sets of wheels.
  • Given how frustrated I am with this whole experience, I take the Stance wheels to an expert machinist along with my factory 20" performance wheels and asked him to figure out what's going on. As it turns out, whomever machined the Stance wheels did a poor job, and likely used a machine that was way out of adjustment. My machinist took some extremely precise measurements of the bore and the additional lip/ledge on the wheels, measured the factory wheels, and measured the hubs. He could not believe how far off the lip/ledge diameter was compared to what is needed by the hub and what the factory wheel is machined to. There were a NUMBER of issues with how they were machined: Lip/ledge was too narrow on all 4 wheels to fit properly to the Model 3 Performance hub, the lip/ledge was off center from the bore of the wheel, and some of the diameters where not perfectly round. You can imagine how these problems can cause some serious issues when the lip/ledge is out of whack compared to the center bore. The machinist increased the lip/ledge diameter by 3 thousands of an inch on all four, which allowed me to finally mount and remove the wheels without issue.
  • All sounds good now, finally, after all of this, yes? Well, a few days later (today) I find that the Stance SF03 18 inch wheels do NOT have sufficient clearance for the performance brakes on the rears. The wheels just BARELY clear the brake calipers, but are way too close to be used as such. After driving around, some very minor tolerances (i.e. you hit a bump in the road) has caused the wheel to just barely rub on the brake caliper because they are too close. I'm not able to measure the gap, but the front calipers have additional clearance so they don't seem to have this problem. The rears are unusable. I removed all 4 of the Stance SF03 wheels today and put my factory performance wheels back on.

So that's 3 sets of wheels I've gone through now, and it's pretty obvious to me that poor machining of the added lip/ledge required by the Model 3 Performance hub has likely been at fault every time. Now I find out after the fact that the 18" Stance SF03 wheels don't actually even fit with the performance brakes. This has now caused me more grief than I can handle. I'm once again trying to reach someone at GYW to give them the chance to buy these wheels back once and for all.
 
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Posting my question here as well. What’s the ideal offset for a 20x9 on an m3P? Car is lowered 1 inch. I don’t need super aggressive but flush would be nice. Would et30 with a 5mm spacer on the rear look good? I could get more aggressive in the rear with a 25 but then I have issues rotating tires and possibly resale value.
 
Needed to follow up on this. Jason sent another set of the Ohm lightning wheels and they had the same exact problem (don't put them on and torque them down or you'll have a hell of a time getting them off). From all the photos I took it looks pretty obvious that they weren't machined properly. So again, and finally in July, Jason suggested a fix to replace the second set of Ohm Lightning wheels with 18" Stance SF03s. I said, OK great, at this point I'm pretty torqued. I received the Stance wheels back in July, and paid out of pocket to have tires swapped.
  • A week ago I decided it was time to put the winter tires/wheels (now these are the Stance wheels) on, and lo and behold after putting a single wheel on, I once again had a heck of a time getting it off (and again had to use a BFH to to remove it from the hub). This is the SAME issue now across 3 sets of wheels.
  • Given how frustrated I am with this whole experience, I take the Stance wheels to an expert machinist along with my factory 20" performance wheels and asked him to figure out what's going on. As it turns out, whomever machined the Stance wheels did a poor job, and likely used a machine that was way out of adjustment. My machinist took some extremely precise measurements of the bore and the additional lip/ledge on the wheels, measured the factory wheels, and measured the hubs. He could not believe how far off the lip/ledge diameter was compared to what is needed by the hub and what the factory wheel is machined to. There were a NUMBER of issues with how they were machined: Lip/ledge was too narrow on all 4 wheels to fit properly to the Model 3 Performance hub, the lip/ledge was off center from the bore of the wheel, and some of the diameters where not perfectly round. You can imagine how these problems can cause some serious issues when the lip/ledge is out of whack compared to the center bore. The machinist increased the lip/ledge diameter by 3 thousands of an inch on all four, which allowed me to finally mount and remove the wheels without issue.
  • All sounds good now, finally, after all of this, yes? Well, a few days later (today) I find that the Stance SF03 18 inch wheels do NOT have sufficient clearance for the performance brakes on the rears. The wheels just BARELY clear the brake calipers, but are way too close to be used as such. After driving around, some very minor tolerances (i.e. you hit a bump in the road) has caused the wheel to just barely rub on the brake caliper because they are too close. I'm not able to measure the gap, but the front calipers have additional clearance so they don't seem to have this problem. The rears are unusable. I removed all 4 of the Stance SF03 wheels today and put my factory performance wheels back on.

So that's 3 sets of wheels I've gone through now, and it's pretty obvious to me that poor machining of the added lip/ledge required by the Model 3 Performance hub has likely been at fault every time. Now I find out after the fact that the 18" Stance SF03 wheels don't actually even fit with the performance brakes. This has now caused me more grief than I can handle. I'm once again trying to reach someone at GYW to give them the chance to buy these wheels back once and for all.
You can get hub centric rings with the lip edge or you can get a 3mm or 5mm slip spacer with the lip edge. This will solve your issues and avoid needing to machine the wheel.
 
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