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Model s 85D 2015 won't heat

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forget to attach link: Tesla Model S (2015)- fuse box diagram - Auto Genius

btw: there was two visible fuse boxes under the plastic trim in frunk. There was no heater fuse, is there another fuse box like in link. or is that fuse box in link, the one i should let SC do?
Does anyone have idea where this fuse box is located?

E: Or does Europe version have different kind of fuse box?
 
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Does anyone have idea where this fuse box is located?

E: Or does Europe version have different kind of fuse box?
Mine (2014 p85+) are mounted on the firewall. Pretty easy to get to. See the two boxes with yellow warning stickers in the attached picture. Just need to remove the frunk tub. You can’t miss it.
A0B94359-2DA3-4238-BB24-E2F9998143FF.jpeg
0781F2EB-BFDE-4D18-AF0D-2A5077976C5D.jpeg
 
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Mine (2014 p85+) are mounted on the firewall. Pretty easy to get to. See the two boxes with yellow warning stickers in the attached picture. Just need to remove the frunk tub. You can’t miss it. View attachment 754651View attachment 754652
I quess the right box is the left one in the pic?

Which one is the right fuse? upper or lower of the bigger ones?

Do I need to uplug some wires etc before I remove the dcdc conv./junktion box?

And what are specs for fuse? Is there some part number?

just wondering is it possible to get right fuse somewhere else or do i need to buy it from Tesla?
 
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I think i will do the same. Do u have any part number etc so i can find right one somewhere her in Finland?

Is it enoungh to disconnect 12v battery, or do i need do more before taking dcdc converter out?
That’s high voltage; don’t mess with it unless you know exactly what you’re doing and how to safely check fuses after cutting both 12V and the high voltage fireman’s loop. There are other threads on this topic.
 
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I found these kind of instructions:

1. Open frunk
2. Open drivers window all the way
3. Turn power off, from touch screen.
4. Remove all trims to access 12v battery
5. Disconnect negative and protect the pole
6. Disconnect firemans loop
7. Wait 5 min
8. Disconnet connectors etc from dcdc converter
9. Take dcdc converter out
10. Take it apart, change fuses
11. Rebuilt converter
12. Put it back, and reconnect connectors
13. Reconnect firemans loop
14. Reconnect 12v negative pole
15. Put all trims back

Is this all, or do i need to do more or am i missing some step?
 
I just contacted SC and they checked my fault codes, PTC fault. Unit and fuse replacement cost 1070€ approx. Part number for PTC unit is 1060432-00-E. I searched from ebay used ones and found lot of 1060432-00-D, but not 1060432-00-E. What is the difference between D an E?
 
Mine (2014 p85+) are mounted on the firewall. Pretty easy to get to. See the two boxes with yellow warning stickers in the attached picture. Just need to remove the frunk tub. You can’t miss it.
RWD cars are much different (obviously) because I can barely see the DCDC converter in my car if I get a flashlight and poke my head around with the frunk liner removed, because its directly behind the motor and the only way to access it is to pull the motor or the HV battery.
 
I just contacted SC and they checked my fault codes, PTC fault. Unit and fuse replacement cost 1070€ approx. Part number for PTC unit is 1060432-00-E. I searched from ebay used ones and found lot of 1060432-00-D, but not 1060432-00-E. What is the difference between D an E?

Usually a revision difference (e.g. E vs D) would be some minor change but the part should still be compatible. If possible (don't know where the part is on the car), you may want to see if you can see what revision you currently have.
 
I think i will do the same. Do u have any part number etc so i can find right one somewhere her in Finland?

Is it enoungh to disconnect 12v battery, or do i need do more before taking dcdc converter out?
The specs are printed on the fuses (it has been a while and I don’t remember them). I disconnected the 12v and pulled the fireman loop. I also had high voltage gloves and i pulled the HV cable going into the DCDC converter before opening it up.
 
Usually a revision difference (e.g. E vs D) would be some minor change but the part should still be compatible. If possible (don't know where the part is on the car), you may want to see if you can see what revision you currently have.
I checked via app, invoice says "LHD 3GEN PTC HTR, EMC FIX (1060432-00-E)". I believe this replacement is some newer version. I dont know what is my current one. Need to remove lots of trims and glovebox etc, so thats why I asked help, if someone knows if D and E are compatible