Model S Aftermarket Wheel Fitment/Offset Discussion

[All In]

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on some monoblock forged wheels and trying to nail down the optimal offsets for some 21's.

My goal is a flush flush setup without stretching tires or non-standard camber. I have a bit of a commute these days and worrying about brand X vs brand Y's stretched sidewall shape keeping me from rubbing isn't something I want to mess with again. From what I can tell the fenders come adequately rolled from the factory, so that's one thing done.

So what does everyone think the correct offset would be for a fully flushed front and rear?


Here are some of the examples I have seen combing through the forums:
@bwherry

• Front: 21x9" ET30 (Michelin Pilot Sport 4S in 245/35/21)
• Rear: 21x10.5" ET35 (Michelin Pilot Sport 4S in 285/30/21)
• BC Forged HC010

21" BC Forged HC010 on 2016 P90DL - a photographic journey (thread)


@Aggmeister2010

• Front: 21x9" ET37 (Michelin Pilot Sport 4 in 245/35/21)
• Rear: 21x10.5" ET37 (Michelin Pilot Sport 4 in 285/30/21)
• Vossen HF-4T

Show off your aftermarket wheels.


@JzCastle

• Front: 21x9" ET30 (Pirelli P Zero in 245/35/21)
• Rear: 21x10.5" ET38 (Pirelli P Zero in 285/30/21)
• Vossen HF-4T

Show off your aftermarket wheels.

@colindo1990

• Front: 21x10" ET?? (?? in 255/30/21)
• Rear: 21x11" ET?? (?? in 295/25/21)
• BC Forged RZ39

Show off your aftermarket wheels.

• Front: 20x10" ET20 (?? in 255/35/20)
• Rear: 20x11" ET28 (?? in 295/30/20)
• ?

@nrcooled

• Front: 20x9" ET28 with 5mm spacer (?? in 245/40/20)
• Rear: 20x10.5" ET38 (?? in 285/35/20)
• BC Forged ??

Show off your aftermarket wheels.

 

[Aggmeister2010]

I want to say @bwherry has aftermarket rear camber arms - I know I do.

Also, my car is lowered with lowering links - my ride height, measured from ground to top of wheel arch, is 27.75" on LOW.

 

[All In]

I want to say @bwherry has aftermarket rear camber arms - I know I do.

Also, my ride height, measured from ground to top of wheel arch, is:
FRONT: 27.75"
REAR: 28"

Appreciate the feedback. I'm planning to jump straight to the Unplugged lowering brackets with the N2itive Rear Camber and Rear Toe arms based on the work you and some others have done.

 

[bwherry]

Those are some mighty fine lookin' rides!

FWIW I don't have any aftermarket camber arms - just UP lowering brackets. I had an alignment done at Song's Alignment (pretty close to UP in Hawthorne) at the "normal" setting - and that's the setting I use for normal driving (NOT dropping to low at any speeds). I go down to low for sexy stance parking and photo shoots haha.

It's interesting that of the 21x10.5" rears w/ 285/30/21, my ET35 wheels should be pushed out the farthest - the others are ET37 and ET38 - yet those both appear to be pushed out farther than mine. @Aggmeister2010 and @JzCastle , neither of you has spacers in back, do you?

Brian

 

[Aggmeister2010]

Appreciate the feedback. I'm planning to jump straight to the Unplugged lowering brackets with the N2itive Rear Camber and Rear Toe arms based on the work you and some others have done.

Aftermarket toe arms are not necessary, unless you just really want them. Factory toe links have plenty of adjustability.

If you're using unplugged brackets, make sure you install the N2itive camber arms with the adjustable side facing OUT. Otherwise, your rear ride height will change (up) every time you adjust camber.

Those are some mighty fine lookin' rides!

FWIW I don't have any aftermarket camber arms - just UP lowering brackets. I had an alignment done at Song's Alignment (pretty close to UP in Hawthorne) at the "normal" setting - and that's the setting I use for normal driving (NOT dropping to low at any speeds). I go down to low for sexy stance parking and photo shoots haha.

It's interesting that of the 21x10.5" rears w/ 285/30/21, my ET35 wheels should be pushed out the farthest - the others are ET37 and ET38 - yet those both appear to be pushed out farther than mine. @Aggmeister2010 and @JzCastle , neither of you has spacers in back, do you?

Brian

No spacers, but I use the adjustable rear arms to get much more neutral camber than factory. You're probably at like -2.5 degrees lowered on factory arms (that's what mine was on UP brackets), I'm at -1.4 degrees, ish. The top edge of my wheels is pushed out via that process, so the top edge of our wheels are in similar places because of your offset vs my camber. Left and right wheel edge are perfectly flush with the fender.

I drive mine in low (what is pictured) because I needed a higher setting for when my wife drives it. We've had some....incidents......

 

[All In]

Aftermarket toe arms are not necessary, unless you just really want them. Factory toe links have plenty of adjustability.

If you're using unplugged brackets, make sure you install the N2itive camber arms with the adjustable side facing OUT. Otherwise, your rear ride height will change (up) every time you adjust camber.



No spacers, but I use the adjustable rear arms to get much more neutral camber than factory. You're probably at like -2.5 degrees lowered on factory arms (that's what mine was on UP brackets), I'm at -1.4 degrees, ish. The top edge of my wheels is pushed out via that process, so the top edge of our wheels are in similar places because of your offset vs my camber. Left and right wheel edge are perfectly flush with the fender.

I drive mine in low (what is pictured) because I needed a higher setting for when my wife drives it. We've had some....incidents......

Ah, I didn't realize that the factory arms had enough range. I guess I was just thinking "while I'm in there". Thanks

 

[All In]

Here are some pictures of my last car's fitment as a reference. I guess I'd like to get as close to this as possible without causing myself a ton of problems...

 

[Aggmeister2010]

Here are some pictures of my last car's fitment as a reference. I guess I'd like to get as close to this as possible without causing myself a ton of problems...

Totally achievable - that's essentially where i am right now in the rear. In the front, you might have to do a little shaving on the inner fender liner to get everything perfectly flush - but that's no big deal, it's just plastic. Mine are set about 5mm in and are riiiiiiight on the edge of the no-rub-zone.

Nice E92, by the way. I came here from an E39 M5.....I do still miss it sometimes. Not in traffic, though.

 

[All In]

Here's one I forgot. They are 20's, but the offset should be very similar assuming standard camber/tire diameter.

@SnakeDoctorTD

• Front: 20x10" ET25 (?? in 255/35/20)
• Rear: 20x11" ET28 (?? in 285/30/20)
• ?

Show off your aftermarket wheels.

 

[EV-Fixme]

Ah, I didn't realize that the factory arms had enough range. I guess I was just thinking "while I'm in there". Thanks

It depends on the car. One of our cars could not get proper toe with factory. AFAIK the car was never in an accident. Custom toe arms finally got the car to be able to align into spec.

 

[All In]

@BrianS85

• Front: 21x9" ET32 (?? in 255/35/20)
• Rear: 21x10.5" ET38 with 3mm spacer (?? in 285/30/20)
• BC Forged HCS04

Show off your aftermarket wheels.


@serendipitous

• Front: 21x9" ET32 (Michelin Pilot Sport 4S in 245/35/21)
• Rear: 21x10.5" ET38 (Michelin Pilot Sport 4S in 285/30/21)
• VS Forged VS-08

Show off your aftermarket wheels.

 

[All In]

Back to the goal of the thread, is the consensus that an offset of 30 front and 35 rear would be flush (assuming standard alignment, vent fin adjustment, etc)?

 

[kev1n]

20x10 +30 on 255/35/20 front and rear
if you run a 9 in front, you will want to be around +20 offset or it will look sunken in
you can run a wider rear with higher offset as well

 

[All In]

20x10 +30 on 255/35/20 front and rear
if you run a 9 in front, you will want to be around +20 offset or it will look sunken in
you can run a wider rear with higher offset as well

View attachment 658402View attachment 658403

Your car looks great and appreciate your additional data point.

My mistake on leaving out the width. That's an important detail...

It seems like the standard larger staggered setup is 9" front and 10.5" rear. I have seen a few people go to 10" front and 11" rear though. I'm waiting for feedback from a vendor on the concavity difference between the two. I haven't seen any reason not to go with the 10/11" setup, but looking for feedback.

I really haven't seen anyone running ET20 with a 9" front. It's surprising to me that bwherry is at ET30 and appears to have a little room, but Aggmeister2010 is at ET37 and looks almost flush.

Assuming a 9/10.5", I've asking the vendor to look at the following:

• Front: 21x9" ET25
• Rear: 21x10.5" ET35

 

[BrianS85]

Assuming a 9/10.5", I've asking the vendor to look at the following:

• Front: 21x9" ET25
• Rear: 21x10.5" ET35

Those will look pretty flush. My +38s in the back with 3mm spacer are equivalent to +35 and it’s pretty flush as you can see.
The +32 in front is way off though and not flush at all. I’m running Michelin pilot super sports

 

[kev1n]

Your car looks great and appreciate your additional data point.

My mistake on leaving out the width. That's an important detail...

It seems like the standard larger staggered setup is 9" front and 10.5" rear. I have seen a few people go to 10" front and 11" rear though. I'm waiting for feedback from a vendor on the concavity difference between the two. I haven't seen any reason not to go with the 10/11" setup, but looking for feedback.

I really haven't seen anyone running ET20 with a 9" front. It's surprising to me that bwherry is at ET30 and appears to have a little room, but Aggmeister2010 is at ET37 and looks almost flush.

Assuming a 9/10.5", I've asking the vendor to look at the following:

• Front: 21x9" ET25
• Rear: 21x10.5" ET35

you cannot see clearly in pictures. most people go with a conservative front because if you dont know what you are doing, its possible to damage your fenders.
example: if you are lowered and go up a drive way and you turn your wheel, it will smack your fender

you have to watch out for the x10 front if you are going higher offset than +30, it gets close to the front knuckle. i had about 3mm clearance with 20x10 +30

here is
21x9 +22 245/35/21
21x10 +35 275/30/21

 

[SnakeDoctorTD]

Here's one I forgot. They are 20's, but the offset should be very similar assuming standard camber/tire diameter.

@SnakeDoctorTD

• Front: 20x10" ET25 (?? in 255/35/20)
• Rear: 20x11" ET28 (?? in 285/30/20)
• ?

Show off your aftermarket wheels.

20x10 et25 with 255/35
20x11 et28 with 285/30
Rohana RFX11

 

[All In]

you cannot see clearly in pictures. most people go with a conservative front because if you dont know what you are doing, its possible to damage your fenders.
example: if you are lowered and go up a drive way and you turn your wheel, it will smack your fender

you have to watch out for the x10 front if you are going higher offset than +30, it gets close to the front knuckle. i had about 3mm clearance with 20x10 +30

here is
21x9 +22 245/35/21
21x10 +35 275/30/21
View attachment 658727

Did you have any issues at 21x9" ET22 in the front? The vendor is giving me the "we'll do it, but don't recommend or grantee it will fit" for the 21x9" ET25.

 

[Aggmeister2010]

Did you have any issues at 21x9" ET22 in the front? The vendor is giving me the "we'll do it, but don't recommend or grantee it will fit" for the 21x9" ET25.

Visualizing that in my head, it doesn't sound like it'll fit well. With just 22mm from the hub to the wheel mounting surface, id think you would hit the steering knuckle. You could always measure your clearance with your current wheels, get that offset, subtract 22 from it, and see how much clearance you have left.

 

[kev1n]

Did you have any issues at 21x9" ET22 in the front? The vendor is giving me the "we'll do it, but don't recommend or grantee it will fit" for the 21x9" ET25.

no issues with fitting but you should read my comments above i made in a previous reply why people are afraid/shops dont recommend it

Visualizing that in my head, it doesn't sound like it'll fit well. With just 22mm from the hub to the wheel mounting surface, id think you would hit the steering knuckle. You could always measure your clearance with your current wheels, get that offset, subtract 22 from it, and see how much clearance you have left.

you're measuring it backwards, a +22 will sit more outward than OEM, you're adding 22mm, not subtracting it