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Model S Aftermarket Wheel Fitment/Offset Discussion
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Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Folks,
I test fitted a 10mm spacer on the front, on my wheels that have a -25mm offset (now -35mm).
Aesthetically, it looks GREAT. The underbite that the S typically has is gone.
But From a rubbing standpoint, there’s maybe 0.5mm between the tire and the fender liner at full lock. It doesn’t touch, but it would at an incline.
I also have 5mm spacers that have a good amount more clearance, but it just doesn’t look quite as good.
Tbh though, I’m not sure how often it would matter, I’m rarely if ever driving at full lock. Especially on an incline. So I may stick with 10mm and see if I have any issues or order 8mm spacers and have a happy middle ground.
I’m going to install the 5mm longer studs later this week when my BBK comes in. At that point I’ll put the properly fitting hub-centric spacers on, and see how it does on the road.
I test fitted a 10mm spacer on the front, on my wheels that have a -25mm offset (now -35mm).
Aesthetically, it looks GREAT. The underbite that the S typically has is gone.
But From a rubbing standpoint, there’s maybe 0.5mm between the tire and the fender liner at full lock. It doesn’t touch, but it would at an incline.
I also have 5mm spacers that have a good amount more clearance, but it just doesn’t look quite as good.
Tbh though, I’m not sure how often it would matter, I’m rarely if ever driving at full lock. Especially on an incline. So I may stick with 10mm and see if I have any issues or order 8mm spacers and have a happy middle ground.
I’m going to install the 5mm longer studs later this week when my BBK comes in. At that point I’ll put the properly fitting hub-centric spacers on, and see how it does on the road.
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What is the tire rubbing on? If it's the vent slats I just shaved them down a bit using a Dremel on my old S and the rubbing went away. If it's not that, you can also try heating the liner up with a heat gun and pushing it back a bit to get some more clearance.
Dannietjoh
Member
Yep, that is what I will be doing soon, when the front bumper has to come off anyway. With 20mm spacers it rubs on the right side but only when reversing with steering wheel half way left or right. It makes a distinct Rrrrrrrr sound from rubbing the vent slats. Its fun to see peoples “that cant be good” face every now and then.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Easy peasy. I got a 4 lb hammer and with about 3 heavy taps the stock studs were out. I pulled in the longer studs using the tool that i linked above and some open ended pitched lug nuts, job done.
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Local client's Model S Plaid on 20x10 square BC Forged RZ21
modelplusstudio.com
Shipping Worldwide
Danny
BC Forged Bespoke Wheel Program - Model S
Bespoke Configuration - Diameter, width, offset, color, and face profile are completely customizable. Constructions & Designs (choose a design) Monoblock - 1 piece 6061-T6 Forged Aluminum Modular - 1 piece 6061 Forged Center + 1 piece 6061 Forged Barrel + Stainless Assembly Hardware. Plug &...
modelplusstudio.com
Shipping Worldwide
Danny
Nice day to get her cleaned up.
BCForged 21x10.5 +34 Square, rotate-able 285/30/21 with 15mm spacers in the rear.
BCForged 21x10.5 +34 Square, rotate-able 285/30/21 with 15mm spacers in the rear.
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MFrunkerOG
Active Member
Still got the old wheel studs? I was looking for some measurements on how long the oem ones are how long the knurl is.
lbowroom
Plaid, white on black, CF, 8/27/21, Track Pack
MFrunkerOG
Active Member
MikloVL
Member
I need y’all help me decide what to do. First here’s some info on car.
2018 model s
N2itive camber links and lowering links.
Rear offset is 35mm using 3mm spacers.
Oem Toe is maxed out so I cannot adjust any more camber.
Problem: My rear driver side is flush, camber @ -2.6 and Rear passenger side is SUNK, camber @ -2.4 …..I don’t know why. I’ve had the readings done at two different shops and it’s the same results. I’m thinking Tesla manufactured the car not centered somehow idk. I think I have two options that I can think of.
1) buy toe links so I can adjust my camber more positive to bring the passenger rear flush. I’d also may adjust camber on driver side but this would cause my driver side to then be poking. So I’d have to remove the 3mm spacer on the driver side. Offset would then be 38mm driver side and 35mm passenger. Any problems with offset not matching? Or should I keep the driver side spacer on, and not adjust camber. Offset match at 35mm but camber is different, driver -2.6 and passenger -0.5, not sure how funny that will look. Parts and labor about $1000
2) install extended studs on passenger side and add a thicker spacer to make it flush. Offset would then be mismatched. 35mm driver side and maybe 30mm passenger. Cost about $400
Not too concerned w costs, just wondering if I’m missing something or if there’s another route to take.
2018 model s
N2itive camber links and lowering links.
Rear offset is 35mm using 3mm spacers.
Oem Toe is maxed out so I cannot adjust any more camber.
Problem: My rear driver side is flush, camber @ -2.6 and Rear passenger side is SUNK, camber @ -2.4 …..I don’t know why. I’ve had the readings done at two different shops and it’s the same results. I’m thinking Tesla manufactured the car not centered somehow idk. I think I have two options that I can think of.
1) buy toe links so I can adjust my camber more positive to bring the passenger rear flush. I’d also may adjust camber on driver side but this would cause my driver side to then be poking. So I’d have to remove the 3mm spacer on the driver side. Offset would then be 38mm driver side and 35mm passenger. Any problems with offset not matching? Or should I keep the driver side spacer on, and not adjust camber. Offset match at 35mm but camber is different, driver -2.6 and passenger -0.5, not sure how funny that will look. Parts and labor about $1000
2) install extended studs on passenger side and add a thicker spacer to make it flush. Offset would then be mismatched. 35mm driver side and maybe 30mm passenger. Cost about $400
Not too concerned w costs, just wondering if I’m missing something or if there’s another route to take.
Dannietjoh
Member
My camber on the rear is off by an unfixable amount with the original camber arms, the car has a resprayed rear quarter panel on the off side so my guess is it has been in an accident with the previous owner. Are you the first owner? Else it could be the entire subframe is mounted on an offset or the subframe bushings are somehow damaged.
MikloVL
Member
Thank you! I'll get an auto shop to look into the subframe. I am second owner, bought it at 11k miles. The carfax is clean but that doesn't mean it is. I will have the shop check for signs of repairs as well.
21" BC Forged RS43 our local client's MS Plaid.Annnnnd another Model S Plaid x BC Forged incoming!
This set is BRIGHT and different. 21" Monoblock RS43 Brushed Gold in with 11.5" wide rear!
View attachment 920827
Stay tuned for more on this set soon.BC Forged Bespoke Wheel Program - Model S
Bespoke Configuration - Diameter, width, offset, color, and face profile are completely customizable. Constructions & Designs (choose a design) Monoblock - 1 piece 6061-T6 Forged Aluminum Modular - 1 piece 6061 Forged Center + 1 piece 6061 Forged Barrel + Stainless Assembly Hardware. Plug &...
Danny
21x10.5, 21x11.5 staggered.
These Brushed Gold RS43 POP! More photos once weather gets decent around here.
Please message or email us at [email protected] for any questions or ordering details!
Danny
are you able to fit 325/30/21 in the rears?21" BC Forged RS43 our local client's MS Plaid.
21x10.5, 21x11.5 staggered.
These Brushed Gold RS43 POP! More photos once weather gets decent around here.
Please message or email us at [email protected] for any questions or ordering details!
Danny
Yes, just need to select a higher offset to accommodate for the extra tire width.
325/30/21 on 21x11.5 rear below
Danny
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