Cheburashka
Active Member
To get to the fuse you need to remove the wiper motor and you can get at the lid from on top. Not easy but doable. I opened my frunk up to look.
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Model S Cabin Heater Stopped Working
- Thread starter Snowstorm
- Start date
$550 ish in parts. $1000 labor. Maybe they can afford to drop the battery for that.
I don’t suppose you’d ask them for us if they did drop the battery pack? It wouldn’t necessarily mean we’d have to, but if they don’t, that means a lot.
That answer would help me decide whether I’m replacing a heater core, or whether just a fuse and running the heater with the car disassembled to see if it pops again. Assuming we figure out how to get those parts from the frunk. Otherwise I’m leaving it at the service center for them to fix.
I’m curious as to when that Gen3 “E” part got released. Looks like the main part number is Apr 2016 for the S but maybe Sep 2015 for the X. Installed until Jan 2021, as it probably is not needed with the heat pump. I see references to a 2018 “D” revision online, so I’m leaning toward a new part for me.
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Gtech
Active Member
I was wondering the same and I did some 'research'.
This are labor times and I think I have the answer:
If they can remove the HV pack in 1.2 hours there is 0,95 to change the fuse. Sounds plausible.
I have replaced the PTC fuse from 2nd gen dual motor twice now and both times without removing HV pack but the first time I think it took me 6 almost hours. Second time maybe half that time but I don't think an average mechanic can do it easily in 2 hours.
I had no succes with replacing only the fuse, also keep in mind the cover has to be fully seated before testing.
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I can see why they wouldn’t just replace the fuse. So much labor involved and you can’t test the heater without the HV pack reinstalled.
I bet they’d give you the old heater if you asked. Probably no core charge. Not sure who would want an iffy heater core though. Maybe for an ICE with a Tesla retrofit.
I bet they’d give you the old heater if you asked. Probably no core charge. Not sure who would want an iffy heater core though. Maybe for an ICE with a Tesla retrofit.
Cheburashka
Active Member
Removing the HV pack is super simple. I wonder why it takes a freaking hour to do it? 10 minutes to remove and 50 minutes to stand around and look at it?
Replacing the heater itself is also easy. Just need to figure out how the foot well trim goes together. Took me only a couple of hours first time. If I had to do it again I could do it in under an hour.
Replacing the heater itself is also easy. Just need to figure out how the foot well trim goes together. Took me only a couple of hours first time. If I had to do it again I could do it in under an hour.
Cheburashka
Active Member
I didn't get to the fuse yet, I just replaced the PTC heater and it was easy. Going to start on the fuse today.
The EXACT same thing happened my 2016 Tesla Model S today. Strange that it happened to both of us on the exact same day.
With ICE cars, we always had to worry that the mechanical engineers designed parts to last just until the factory warranty expires. Now with over the air updates, the software engineers can simply program parts to fail outside of warranty.
Need some extra revenue for the quarter? Just send a command to shut down a component, give an error code, and have the owner pay to replace it! Brilliant!
Just had this happen to my 2018 Model S (just blowing cold air) - 3 months out of warranty. I am beyond pissed given the timing. Service Appointment tomorrow to see if they are willing to cover under warranty (highly doubt) which expired in Dec 2022.
This is the estimate - can anyone let me know what the $1200 part is?
LEFT HAND DRIVEGEN3 PTC HTR, EMCFIX(1060432-00-E) - I've seen this in other owner's invoices here on this thread this is the PTC Heater.
GEN3 PTC LEFT HANDDRIVE SERVICE, MSLEGACY(1041265-00-F) - anyone know what this?
I had brought in the car back in Nov 2022 for a whistling noise it was making while under warranty, while preconditioning and plugged in. This is the exact scenario when the heating system failed (plugged in, preconditioning). Heat was working just hours earlier during regular driving.
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Just have it done at the service center. My total came out to be $1200 both the PTC heater + fuse. Also, while they're doing that, might as well replace the 12 volt battery. Why!? The older the battery, the more work the DC-DC converter has to work to keep the 12 volt battery alive. It will last you another 100k miles anyway with the new parts installed. $1200 isn't much in the grand scheme of things.
BrownOuttaSpec
Active Member
The top item (1060432-00-E) is for April 2016 - Jan 2021 Model S.
The 2nd item (1041265-00-F) for $1200 is for Feb 2012 - March 2016 Model S
So you would need one or the other based on the month/year of your car, not both.
Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. This is beyond disappointing that they would try to scam me and pay for both...especially given the circumstances having brought up a related issue while the car was under warranty. At this point I've lost complete trust in this service center.
BrownOuttaSpec
Active Member
I am right there with ya with the lack of trust. Raleigh, NC service center said they performed a drain and fill service (Correction Code 18300100) and they did not, then lied to me and said my car was on a lift to perform that service and it never was.
I am not sure if the labor is correct or not but at least it makes sense... They provided an estimate and then provided a $210 "discount" so the amounts add up correctly. Again not sure if the cost for the labor is indicative of how much they need to actually replace those parts.
I think this is something I will need to take up with Tesla Canada as a whole as it just seems shady practice to try and bill for a part that's not needed.
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