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Wiki Model S Delivery Update

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Are you speaking to the Tesla manual or the Escort manual? Escort I was just told by my installer is sensitive to voltage and you need to use a voltage regulator and drop the voltage down to 12v. The Tesla battery is 16v.
The Tesla battery is 12V. At least that's what it says in the owner's manual on page 24. It also mentions a power inverter plugged into the 12V power socket must support 16V DC input to function.
 
@Drew-MS Doesn't it seem strange that the manual says that an inverter must support 16v input in order to function, if the system isn't 16v? After all, the input voltage to the inverter would be what the inverter is actually switching to AC...

I'm not trying to be arugmentative here, I'm trying to learn. :)

I think it might be time for someone to measure the voltage on the low voltage system when the car is asleep (low voltage system powered by the battery) and awake (low voltage system powered by the DC/DC convertor)...
 
And unless it is wrong, page 223 talks about jump starting the 12V about 12 (or more) times.
But did you look at the note on page 25?

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NOTE: A power inverter plugged into the 12V
power socket must support 16V DC input to
function.

I don't know why they would call out just a power inverter. I would think anything plugged in to it would need to support 16V DC.
 
But did you look at the note on page 25?

View attachment 709273



I don't know why they would call out just a power inverter. I would think anything plugged in to it would need to support 16V DC.
Admittedly, I am well out of my league here (electronics, battery, etc.). But is that note only just the power socket in the console? Not the actual battery under the hood? Maybe it has to be 1:1. Again, out of my league.
 
Yes, I think I can speak to this. My car is currently with a very Tesla experienced audio and radar detection equipment. I am in week two of the build which is expected to take 3 weeks. Right off the bat when he started to work on the car he noticed the 16V battery and said he couldn’t continue without adding an external battery. He said at 16v‘s you will have problems with after market components. So he recommended the battery, ordered it, got it yesterday. It’s hooked up and driving the front speakers with no errors and the voltage is constant. After he is done with the audio, he is also installing an escort radar max ci system which will also be powered by the external battery we added. How are you currently powering your escort? If its off of the 16v, yes its very possible you are going to burn it out.
@KZ-CLT - Do you recall what they hooked up your laser / radar equipment to?
 
I just came across this tidbit... maybe applicable?
That would explain it! No biggie, the Escort just seems to shut itself down, which it would be doing anyway just a bit later when the car powers all the way down and goes to sleep. But I have to listen to the voice complaining, and at first I thought it was Nameless trying to talk to me...
 
and at first I thought it was Nameless trying to talk to me...
Same thing happened to me the other day... then I remembered that I brought my wife along with me on that drive...

For some reason, the blue looks much better on the S than it does on the 3. On my 3, it sometimes appears too dark for my taste, but on the S, it really pops.
 
Same thing happened to me the other day... then I remembered that I brought my wife along with me on that drive...

For some reason, the blue looks much better on the S than it does on the 3. On my 3, it sometimes appears too dark for my taste, but on the S, it really pops.
I just had my nephew over an hour ago to measure for the lighter blue wrap. We still have to finalize which brand to use. It seems the color I like best isn't the brand HE likes best LOL. We'll work it out... I do not like the dark blue, sorry! (Well, I "like" it, but I don't "love" it, and I want to LOVE the color...)
 
But did you look at the note on page 25?

View attachment 709273



I don't know why they would call out just a power inverter. I would think anything plugged in to it would need to support 16V DC.
QUESTION -- is that where people are running their radar detector cords? And if so, how are people running the cords in the best way (from the windshield - down below, keeping the cord somewhat tucked in/behind the console) to get to that power socket? Thanks!
 
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Admittedly, I am well out of my league here (electronics, battery, etc.). But is that note only just the power socket in the console? Not the actual battery under the hood? Maybe it has to be 1:1. Again, out of my league.
I believe most 12 volt systems have a tolerance up to 16 volts and devices that are designed to work on 12 volt power are similar. I know if you measure the voltage on most cars while they are running you will frequently see something in the 14 volt range.
 
My delivery is next week. Is it crazy that I am contemplating canceling my order because the car doesn’t have front or rear cross traffic detection? This is going to be my daily driver and the main reason I ordered the car is because of the safety.

Never has had it and probably never will. I can tell you that coming from my last several cars had it, I miss it but have adapted without it.
 
My delivery is next week. Is it crazy that I am contemplating canceling my order because the car doesn’t have front or rear cross traffic detection? This is going to be my daily driver and the main reason I ordered the car is because of the safety.
In my opinion, yes. I think @Hayseed_MS mentioned backing into parking spots so you are always going forward, which is what I try to do 100% of the time. So the rear cross traffic is not a huge disappointment for me. Front cross traffic is also not an issue as I just inch out slowly until I can see. If my car inching out is not enough for someone to slow down to 1) stop or 2) swerve and miss, I have to wonder 1) how fast was the oncoming car going to not see it or 2) is that driver not paying attention.
 
My delivery is next week. Is it crazy that I am contemplating canceling my order because the car doesn’t have front or rear cross traffic detection? This is an option on BMW’s, Lexus and Mercedes now. This is going to be my daily driver and the main reason I ordered the car is because of the safety.
I get it. A few times I thought about cancelling because my car has a full rounded steering wheel and this does not. Figure I will adapt.

No car has everything. It's owners choice.
 
I believe most 12 volt systems have a tolerance up to 16 volts and devices that are designed to work on 12 volt power are similar. I know if you measure the voltage on most cars while they are running you will frequently see something in the 14 volt range.
Yes, 12V batteries require higher than 12V to charge. Most automotive alternators operate in the 14.4V range.
 
Agreed but I still think that should be an easy answer for Tesla support people and the head of my SC
It is not uncommon for support people to be unaware of beta features. If you run beta software on your iPhone, you can't go into the Apple Store and have the Genius explain features that may be present in beta software, but are not enabled in a publicly released version of iOS.
My delivery is next week. Is it crazy that I am contemplating canceling my order because the car doesn’t have front or rear cross traffic detection? This is an option on BMW’s, Lexus and Mercedes now. This is going to be my daily driver and the main reason I ordered the car is because of the safety.
The rear camera(s) do a pretty decent job of letting you know what's coming from both directions.
 
I'm on the opposite path. I used to add it to all my cars...Porche's , MB's, McLaren, etc. It seemed critical to me. Then 6 months later I'd give away $6000-$7000 worth of PPF and get basically no return on it. Then with my pre-refresh SLR I thought well, screw it, I'm not doing it. I had some chips and whatnot, but it certainly did not hurt the resale value of the car and if I didn't inspect it super closely then I'd never even notice. I've probably, no exaggeration, given away $30k+ of PPF over the last 6-7 years. That's a LOT of paintwork that could have been done if I needed to.

Now with my Plaid I skipped it too. I'm 7000 miles in so it's too late. The car looks fine. Yep, there's some chips and whatnot, but at this point, whatever. It doesn't hurt that I own a touch up paint company, so I'll use it to make some videos too. 😁
The conversion from prized possession to chattel :). It is nice when you can just drive the stuff and enjoy it.

Gotten used to that 40-80 mph pull yet? I've not. It makes me smile every flippin time.