You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I have one as well and really like it. I use it with the smaller receiver to carry two mountain bikes with a northshoreracks.com system. You can order direct from Torklift. I actually went down to Kent WA to have them do the install (fast and clean), but as that looks like a bit of a drive for you, I'd suggest printing the installation instructions from Torklift and taking them to your bodyshop of choice. I did that before deciding to make the trip down. The local guy liked the clarity of the instructions and quoted me a reasonable amount to do the work. It's relatively simple, but some body expertise is probably valuable to keep from making any costly mistakes.Where did you get the EcoHitch?
And where did you have it installed?
If you ended having your motor replaced, can you post back on weather or not you had arguments with Tesla because of the hitch installation.
Problem is, it's not about what we think or fear, but rather what Tesla can argue...The X is identical to the S in this regard so one can assume this to be a non-issue. Do you really fear a 400 to 600 horsepower motor/trans is being compromised by simply pulling a trailer that weighs (max) the same as the car?
--
Ok, just how would that argument go??
--
As to why you need it... mostly to tow stuff I suppose. Usually we are not talking boats or mobile homes either. Just a big purchase from IKEA, helping someone move, transporting bikes etc. The big family car is usually what you use when you have special transportation needs, hence being able to extend that with a hitch is very usefull. Maybe Jkirkebo can explain it better?
It's important to note that I said 'argue', not 'prove'. They state in the documentation that the car isn't supposed to pull a trailer.Ok, just how would that argument go??
--
The reason that the riser is derating the tongue weight is because it is increasing the length of the lever that is pushing down on the hitch. The further your load is from the hitch, the actual weight on the hitch is increased. The difference the manufacturer's are listing in affecting tongue weight capacity are likely due to the length of the riser.I installed an Ecohitch last week to bring my Onyx RCR with me, but found the clearance is just too low on a bike carrier:
View attachment 434681
Most hitch risers reduce the tongue weight rating by ~50%, but I found this one which, according to reviewers who spoke to the manufacturer, only has a 15% reduction: https://www.amazon.com/CURT-45794-Raised-Receiver-Adapter/dp/B004C6S1LS
Has anybody tried the Curt hitch riser, and if so, will it fit on an S with an Ecohitch (worried about bumper clearance)? Or does anyone have other ideas about how I could make this work?
A small dirt bike trailer would solve this problem and would instill more confidence in following traffic.
--
From the looks of your load and carrier, you are already probably well past the 200# limit of the hitch because of the distance from the hitch. If you add the riser it will multiply that.
If it were my carrier, I'd put on the riser and modify the carrier to put it as close to the car as possible without causing damage from the bike.
I'm sure a person with both the knowledge of physics and the ability to weld aluminum could do it. It would be surprisingly expensive. I'd go with the riser that is designed for that purpose and just shorten the bar on the carrier.Yeah, but a trailer creates other problems -- a bigger range hit, the need for lighting, difficulty parking at Superchargers, and additional registration requirements. If I can't find a solution I'll do it, but I'd rather not.
A friend made a similar recommendation: to have a metal worker modify the carrier to increase ground clearance. I don't know much of anything about welding -- do you think it's feasible for a welder to raise it and/or bring it a little closer to the car without lessening its structural integrity? In case it's pertinent, the carrier is rated for 400 lbs; it's my hitch that is the limiting factor.
BTW, the whole setup is lighter than it looks. The carrier is mostly aluminum and the bike is under 100 lbs if I remove the battery (72V/23Ah). Haven't done the math for ft-lbs at the tongue but I'm a lot more worried about the clearance than the weight (especially since the Ecohitch itself is rated for 300 lbs at the tongue according to their web site -- I think the 200 spec just derives from the Class II status).
I'm sure a person with both the knowledge of physics and the ability to weld aluminum could do it. It would be surprisingly expensive. I'd go with the riser that is designed for that purpose and just shorten the bar on the carrier.