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FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
Try using an aftermarket app to track your usage and other features... Tesla Stats is one of the best.
Tesla App | Stats for Tesla (maadotaa.com)
Stats: For Model S/X/3/Y on the App Store (apple.com)
Stats for Tesla iOS App [REVIEW] - Drive Tesla Canada
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Do these apps show actual grid consumption or just KWh used from the battery? Do they estimate the losses between the wall and the battery? I’d think the OP wants actual mains consumption.
Hayseed_MS
Spreader of "Endless Non Sequitur"
Yes, it is for reimbursement. How much electricity did I use to charge my car so the company can pay.
There are lots of old style analog meters for sale online and eBay. Sometimes listed as "RV Park Electric Meters". That would probably be the most reliable. Utilities have switched to digital communicating meters so plenty of old style available.
teslafi does show power from the wall at a certain location, but I don't know how accurate it would be.
I have attached a CSV (renamed to txt) of all my charges at a nearby WholeFoods as an example. PM me if you want a code to extend the free trial.
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I found this site a while ago. No direct experience, although I was planning to buy a meter and pan from them to monitor charging - Hialeah Meter
davewill
Active Member
I have one of these. They make much smaller meter boxes than that are hardly larger than the meter. This install was for a program my utility ran. I slapped the meter from Hialeah in there later, after the program ended. You can mount it next to your wall connector and wire through it. You can also get small electronic ones on eBay.
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Yes they do calculate losses, and if you find them to be inaccurate you can manually change the power factor to correct them. I've found them to be very accurate even when using shore power to preheat the car and battery while charging (which drives charge efficiency way down).
TeslaFi example:
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Right, but to confirm accuracy, you still need a reading of actual power consumed from the wall/grid. Otherwise, it's still just an estimate that could go high or low depending on the efficiency factor.
I don't have any full scientific tools, but I started with a wifi 40amp Juicebox that had similar online features to TeslaFi and it reported similar numbers, so there's that. I should add in my above screenshot I had cabin heat and battery heat going for 40 minutes of the 8 hour charge, which really drove down the efficiency.
morrisdl
Member
under $20 to track. I use one at home for years. +/-1.5% accuracy with my utility meter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K3L7M29/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K3L7M29/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
HankLloydRight
No Roads
It only needs one CT because car charging doesn’t use the neutral. It’s all 240v so the circuit is balanced.
something like a dryer uses 240 for the heat and 120 for the motor.
davewill
Active Member
You only need two if you're measuring a 4 wire circuit with two hots and a neutral, (like inside a panel) where the two legs are not always part of the same circuit. With the EVSE, even if this is a 14-50, all of the current will go through both legs, so we only need to measure one side.
Looked at mathematically, if you were measuring energy consumed for your whole house you'd measure amperage of both legs and the total watts at any given time would be:
L1*120v + L2*120v
With a 240v load, L1 will always equal L2, so the equation simplifies to:
L*240v
It's a little more complicated, since we don't use an assumed voltage, but instead measure the voltage between each leg and neutral in the first case. However, that works fine, too if we measure voltage in the second case across both legs.
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Hayseed_MS
Spreader of "Endless Non Sequitur"
You do not see the wall charher on the app unless you are charging with it. Then, you can control the charging same as a supercharger.
Quick review of the new 24' ft. Gen 3 wall connector.
Pros:
Much easier physical installation than the Gen2. Mount the backplate to the wall, wire the power in, and the front just snaps in place. Also, much lighter.
Thinner, lighter cable is welcome and much easier to wrap around, carry around and handle. It's almost half as thick.
No difference in charging performance, getting 48A ad 230V like my Gen2 as expected.
The Gen3 18 ft. was a compromise since I park straight in most of the time, and need the full length of the cable, now it is just as should be. I sometimes back it in, but if the 18ft cable wouldn't reach when parked normally, then I would just get an 8ft. Now this is no longer a problem.
Commissioning the unit through software is much better than using DIP switches. It's almost plug and play.
Cons:
Perhaps the way the screws secure the front plate are a little difficult to secure and you have to come it at an angle (two from the top and two bottom).
Pros:
Much easier physical installation than the Gen2. Mount the backplate to the wall, wire the power in, and the front just snaps in place. Also, much lighter.
Thinner, lighter cable is welcome and much easier to wrap around, carry around and handle. It's almost half as thick.
No difference in charging performance, getting 48A ad 230V like my Gen2 as expected.
The Gen3 18 ft. was a compromise since I park straight in most of the time, and need the full length of the cable, now it is just as should be. I sometimes back it in, but if the 18ft cable wouldn't reach when parked normally, then I would just get an 8ft. Now this is no longer a problem.
Commissioning the unit through software is much better than using DIP switches. It's almost plug and play.
Cons:
Perhaps the way the screws secure the front plate are a little difficult to secure and you have to come it at an angle (two from the top and two bottom).
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