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Model S jumps into Neutral while driving

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A couple of times in the last two months my 2013 Model S has shifted into Neutral by itself when I have slowed down for a traffic light. That wouldn't be too bad, but then the car refuses to shift out of Neutral...I can't shift into Park, Drive, or Reverse. The Frunk won't open because the car thinks it's driving--I can't shut anything off or do anything that can't be done when you're moving, even though I'm very definitely stopped. I've tried all the versions of a system reset, but the car still comes back on frozen in Neutral. The first time I had to push the car to the side of the road and Uber to work. When I came back, everything was completely normal. The second time I had to call a flat-bed, by the time I got home, everything was normal again. Interestingly, when I checked my navigation system to report my location to the tow truck driver, it reported my position as over a mile away from where I actually was. The car was completely functional on my drive to the Service Center. They want to change everything in the Parking Brake system, but I can't see how there could be a fault there when the everything happens while I'm moving. Has anyone experienced this problem? I'm thinking a faulty door or occupancy sensor as it makes sense to me that the car won't go into gear without an occupant. I really don't want to spend $2500 fixing parking brakes that aren't broken!
 
A couple of times in the last two months my 2013 Model S has shifted into Neutral by itself when I have slowed down for a traffic light. That wouldn't be too bad, but then the car refuses to shift out of Neutral...I can't shift into Park, Drive, or Reverse. The Frunk won't open because the car thinks it's driving--I can't shut anything off or do anything that can't be done when you're moving, even though I'm very definitely stopped. I've tried all the versions of a system reset, but the car still comes back on frozen in Neutral. The first time I had to push the car to the side of the road and Uber to work. When I came back, everything was completely normal. The second time I had to call a flat-bed, by the time I got home, everything was normal again. Interestingly, when I checked my navigation system to report my location to the tow truck driver, it reported my position as over a mile away from where I actually was. The car was completely functional on my drive to the Service Center. They want to change everything in the Parking Brake system, but I can't see how there could be a fault there when the everything happens while I'm moving. Has anyone experienced this problem? I'm thinking a faulty door or occupancy sensor as it makes sense to me that the car won't go into gear without an occupant. I really don't want to spend $2500 fixing parking brakes that aren't broken!
Has your problem fixed yet ?
 
No--I decided to bring the car home and take a look at all of the brakes myself. I haven't gotten around to it yet and the car hasn't misbehaved again (yet). I did order a used Parking Brake Control module and installed it (very easy, by the way), but the car didn't like the used module at all (it was from a 2015 Model S--maybe not compatible?) so I put the old one back in.
 
I think its the module / the stalk itself.
The stalk "talks" continuously to the Drive Inverter. If that comm. interrupts i suspect that the motor jumps out of gear and logs an error / warning.
After a good period of no errors it will clear out and your sequence starts again.
 
I had this problem hopefully it helps you. My negative battery terminal ground was loose and it was causing super weird behavior. It only happened from time to time and worse almost drained the entire battery because the car wouldn’t turn off. I ripped the parking brake apart and made sure everything was good there. Long story short somewhere along the line the terminal became loose and once I put it back on tight never saw the issue again
 
The stalk is the shift lever / stalk. Thats the one sending its position to a module , that module then communicates to the DI about the position.
So you need a working module and stalk to don't have doubts about the gear position.
 
Taking into account that there is no transmission it’s really not “slipping” out of gear; I would assume the fault to be with the stalk as someone said above, also not sure of any safety feature that will but the car in N before just putting it in Park altogther.. Check battery connection as said above and then Focus your effort on the stalk after checking connections and/or replace.
 
Hopefully the final update to this thread. The car shifted into neutral again and this time never fixed itself. It wouldn't turn off, go into park/drive/reverse, or reset with any of the hard reset options. I had it towed to the Service Center--this time, because the car was still broken, they were able to trace the problem to water intrusion in one of the Parking Brake system cannon plugs (kudos Demundus!). I guess that there are a lot of cannon plugs, because apparently the one with the intrusion wasn't one of the ones I cleaned.
 
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OK, my saga continues. So the car was fine for a month or so after they cleaned the Connector, but then started jumping into neutral by itself again. It always went back into drive this time, so not a huge inconvenience. I took it back to the Service Center--they had it for over two weeks and couldn't find anything--always claiming to be "consulting with Tesla Engineers." After they couldn't find anything, they said "the engineers think it's the main drive motor," and they gave me a $7K estimate to replace the drive motor. I expressed frustration over spending $7000 bucks on a guess, so I said that I would just pick up the car and wait until the car said it needed a drive motor. The advisor said, "oh, while they were in there they noticed the High Voltage Connector to the battery was worn, we can fix that for $1800. It has nothing to do with the drive problem." I told them that I didn't want to spend $1800 on a problem with no symptoms when I had this other problem with symptoms until they solved the other problem. I went to pick up my car, and was greeted with an alert "Maximum battery charge level reduced, schedule service soon." So now I have a car that jumps out of drive, and I think the Service Center broke something in the charge circuit while they were troubleshooting, and the car will only charge to 76 miles. I have lost all trust in the SC, and don't know what else to do!
 
I went to pick up my car, and was greeted with an alert "Maximum battery charge level reduced, schedule service soon." So now I have a car that jumps out of drive, and I think the Service Center broke something in the charge circuit while they were troubleshooting, and the car will only charge to 76 miles.
That has nothing to do with the charge circuit. That means that the BMS has detected that there is a problem in your HV battery. And that it likely needs replaced. Since it sounds like you are out of warranty that will probably be $12-18k. (But should probably include the HV connector problem.)
 
So I've consulted with several third party Tesla repair shops and think I'll abandon Tesla Service Centers. The general opinion is that my drive motor probably isn't faulty and that the neutral problem is caused by a bad ground somewhere. The amazing thing is that several of the 3rd party guys are of the opinion that a software upgrade has increased the sensitivity of the battery monitoring system and that it has therefore detected an existing cell imbalance resulting in the new charging problem. Has anybody else experienced a sudden degradation of their HV battery? Mine went from charging to 280 miles to charging to 90 while it was at the repair center. Nobody at Tesla seems to care, but I'm incredulous that an automaker can release a software update that essentially cripples some of their cars.