Model S Lowering Links-Worth it?

[Carl_Blue_Ivy]

Hi, I'm new to the forum. Has anybody with the factory adjustable suspension tried lowering links? Looks like an inexpensive way to lower the car by an inch or so without going through major steps.

I saw this guy post this.

 

[cookie99]

yes. lots of posts about it. whats your question? its the best way to lower your car if you have the air suspension, so is it worth it? yes, if you want to lower your car, no if you do not.

3d printed links will cost you nothing more than a few dollars.

 

[Carl_Blue_Ivy]

Appreciate your comments. I think I'll pull the trigger since it's so cheap and easy to install. Just was hoping someone would share their experience with living with them and any negatives.

 

[WASD]

You'll also need to get an alignment after you install them, factor that into the cost.

 

[Zuikkis]

You'll also need to get an alignment after you install them, factor that into the cost.

Well that depends. I have been driving with "always low" setting. I was planning to lower just a bit so that "standard" height becomes same as current "low", then start using "standard" setting on daily driving. That shouldn't require alignment, because ride height is the same as before. But then I'd have the possibility to use "low" to get that slammed look while parked, for example.

I have links waiting to be installed.. I bought a set from ebay, although I do own a 3d printer. I feel it's a bit safer and they were quite cheap anyway. Failing link can drop the car instantly while driving, possibly causing danger.

 

[Luci4]

Hey all,
Quick question. Is there a longevity/safety advanced/disadvantage to the 3d printed variants such as in the video above, or the slightly more expensive metal links that are listed for around $120? Trying to decide if 120 is worth it over the 40 as with the links listed above.
Thank you for your feed back

 

[WASD]

Well that depends. I have been driving with "always low" setting. I was planning to lower just a bit so that "standard" height becomes same as current "low", then start using "standard" setting on daily driving. That shouldn't require alignment, because ride height is the same as before. But then I'd have the possibility to use "low" to get that slammed look while parked, for example.

I have links waiting to be installed.. I bought a set from ebay, although I do own a 3d printer. I feel it's a bit safer and they were quite cheap anyway. Failing link can drop the car instantly while driving, possibly causing danger.

Unless you got an alignment in the "low" setting before, you'll still need an alignment. If you didn't, then you've just been wearing your tires out faster driving in low all the time. The car is aligned in the "standard" position, so any change to that will affect the toe and camber, especially in the rear.

 

[Zuikkis]

Unless you got an alignment in the "low" setting before, you'll still need an alignment. If you didn't, then you've just been wearing your tires out faster driving in low all the time. The car is aligned in the "standard" position, so any change to that will affect the toe and camber, especially in the rear.

I did align the rear myself after recently changing the toe links.

There's no camber adjustment in the rear, just toe. But toe is the most important.

 

[WASD]

I did align the rear myself after recently changing the toe links.

There's no camber adjustment in the rear, just toe. But toe is the most important.

That's good that you did that. But my advice is still good for the OP. You can check my previous posts on the subject and I've said the same thing about toe as you are now. Just trying to help OP with their question.

I have n2itive adjustable camber and toe arms waiting to be installed, and I'd recommend them to anyone serious about lowering their car and wanting to get the best performance and tire life.

 

[aerodyne]

Lowering will garner more rock chips and possibly underbody damage. You don't want to high center on the HV pack.

Just my 0.02.

 

[P100D_Me]

Lowering will garner more rock chips and possibly underbody damage.

Even more chance of that now that Tesla have broken the way the auto height works.

 

[cookie99]

Hey all,
Quick question. Is there a longevity/safety advanced/disadvantage to the 3d printed variants such as in the video above, or the slightly more expensive metal links that are listed for around $120? Trying to decide if 120 is worth it over the 40 as with the links listed above.
Thank you for your feed back

no its not a load bearing part, metal links are $120 because they are adjustable. if you already know what height you want to use.. just get them printed. even $40 is too much. you can find a local hackerspace to make them for a few bucks... or if you have any friends at all. my friend made mine for free for me since its not more than 50 cents worth of plastic

 

[Zuikkis]

Hmm I bought mine at about $80 from ebay. I didn't even consider printing for such a low price.

Sure it's not a "load bearing part" but there is a lot of movement which will eventually wear out the plastic and finally pop out the ball joint from it's socket. Then that corner will either drop down or go maximum high.

Metal parts have high quality ball joints protected by rubber shield so dirt can't get in.

 

[Luci4]

Thank you all for the information, greatly appreciated!

 

[kizamybute']

Hi, I'm new to the forum. Has anybody with the factory adjustable suspension tried lowering links? Looks like an inexpensive way to lower the car by an inch or so without going through major steps.


I saw this guy post this.

I used Unplugged Performance lower brackets for mine. LOVED the look, hated driving it. With Tesla's new air suspension speed restrictions reduced, it made them undrivable. Car lowers at just 13 MPH now, where as before, going through residential neighborhoods with speed bumps, I could at least put it on very high, which was about equal to stock with the lowering links and get through OK. Now, you have to reset it every single speed bump which is just ridiculous. For someone like me that commonly comes across the situation, I finally had to take them off. I definitely don't like the stock height appearance, especially on the Raven, which is higher than any of my prior Model S cars, but I do love the peace of mind not having to think about it anymore.


Depends on your driving needs. If you don't come across speed bumps every often, or steep driveways, the new look is well worth it. But, obstacles are commonly in your path, then it could get tiresome having deal with it. I don't know about the links. Unplugged Performance's brackets lower the car quite a bit (1 1/2" at least). I've sent them notes, hoping they can design a mid-range option that maybe lowers it 3/4 of an inch or 1 inch and offer that as a second option. I could live with 3/4 to 1 inch, but after trying for several months, just couldn't live with 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Again, in my personal driving needs, which commonly come across situations where I need the car higher.


If anyone is interested in a set of the Unplugged Lowering Brackets. Send me a PM. Not that you can wear them out, but mine are only a few months old and look like new for anyone interested. They are an easy install. I uninstalled them myself in about 30 minutes. .


Take care

 

[Rockwell]

The Blox lower links are great quality and isnt too expensive. I do recommend getting camber control arms when lowering your car and an alignment . Couple of companies make control arms for Model S and Model X such at Evtuning and N2itive. If you are located in Orange county, shop by our shop and we can see what what we can do for you.

 

[Carl_Blue_Ivy]

You'll also need to get an alignment after you install them, factor that into the cost.

Ok cool. Yeah I completely forgot about that. Good call.

 

[Aaron S]

I used Unplugged Performance lower brackets for mine. LOVED the look, hated driving it. With Tesla's new air suspension speed restrictions reduced, it made them undrivable. Car lowers at just 13 MPH now, where as before, going through residential neighborhoods with speed bumps, I could at least put it on very high, which was about equal to stock with the lowering links and get through OK. Now, you have to reset it every single speed bump which is just ridiculous. For someone like me that commonly comes across the situation, I finally had to take them off. I definitely don't like the stock height appearance, especially on the Raven, which is higher than any of my prior Model S cars, but I do love the peace of mind not having to think about it anymore.


Depends on your driving needs. If you don't come across speed bumps every often, or steep driveways, the new look is well worth it. But, obstacles are commonly in your path, then it could get tiresome having deal with it. I don't know about the links. Unplugged Performance's brackets lower the car quite a bit (1 1/2" at least). I've sent them notes, hoping they can design a mid-range option that maybe lowers it 3/4 of an inch or 1 inch and offer that as a second option. I could live with 3/4 to 1 inch, but after trying for several months, just couldn't live with 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Again, in my personal driving needs, which commonly come across situations where I need the car higher.


If anyone is interested in a set of the Unplugged Lowering Brackets. Send me a PM. Not that you can wear them out, but mine are only a few months old and look like new for anyone interested. They are an easy install. I uninstalled them myself in about 30 minutes. .


Take care

I’m interested 757-818-2077 is my number text me

 

[cryptyk]

I have the adjustable ones. When Tesla replaced the autopilot computer, they recalibrated the suspension settings and wiped out my ride height. I had to go back and adjust the lowering links even lower afterwards.

 

[kizamybute']

I’m interested 757-818-2077 is my number text me

Thank you Aaron, unfortunately, that have been sold.