Okay. Melted connector. This is down my alley.
So, power dissipation goes by I^2*R. Double the current with the same resistance, wherever that resistance may be, and the power squares.
Let's talk about resistances. Wire's got resistance. Any kind of connector has resistance on the contacts. Usually, 10's of milliohms. Where are the connectors in all of this:
- NEMA14-50 blades that carry the two hots.
- Adapter in the TMC.
- Pins in the Tesla charging port connector. Three high-power ones; I think the big ones are 120VAC to neutral, each, and 240 across the pins. I'm not sure about the bottom pin, but that's either ground or neutral. The little guys are communications protocol follies.
- Then, the pins connect to wires on the back side of the connector block. I haven't had one of these apart. Nice, thick, wires, I'm sure. Lockwashers and bolts? Or are they soldered? In any case, the other ends of those wires are connected to, probably, lugs on the circuit boards with flat washers and bolts galore.
And.. there's fusing. A Mobile Connector hooked up to a NEMA14-50. There's a breaker backing up the NEMA14-50 in the breaker box. In fact, that breaker, in US/Canadian style, will have
two physical breakers, each one on a hot, rigged so if one does too much current but the other doesn't, the one that trips drags the other one with it. Hence the term, "ganged". There's no fuse on the neutral/ground at the breaker box.
Further, the car itself has current detectors. On the hots. So, if too much current gets drawn things get turned off in a hurry. Safety first.
So, what happened?
Since the car/Tesla connectors melted, the heat must have been in and around the pins. It wouldn't have been at the NEMA14-50. It wouldn't have been at the pagoda or wherever it is that the cables that connect the power to the internal electric boards are connected - that far away, the boards down there would have fried. And those boards didn't get replaced.
So, either there was Too Much Current or Too Much Resistance. Somewhere.
OK. So, 50A breakers did not pop. But! The Mobile Connector only charges at 32A. But.. that's the maximum load the
car will put across the two hot pins. So, suppose we had some kind of a short between, say, between Hot #1 and ground. If we got 50A breaker, then the maximum current we could have on this short would be 50-32 = 18A to, say, ground. At 120VAC (since we're talking a single hot here). That would be a power level of 2.16 kW; and, yeah, the heat from that on that connector would likely melt things.
But that assumes a short circuit in and around the power connector. Hmm.
Next thought: resistance. Well.. there's a couple of possibilities in this direction.
First, any of you who have looked will notice that the connectors inside the Tesla connectors are colored silver. That's not an accident - they are extremely like to
be silver. Silver having the highest conduction/lowest resistance of any metal standing around. But, silver has a problem: It oxidizes. And silver tarnish isn't quite as good a conductor as the naked stuff, no surprise there. Most of the junk I work with where we want long-term reliability gets gold plating, since gold doesn't corrode particularly. Doesn't conduct as well, but you takes your lumps as you gets them.
There's a couple of tricks with high power connectors:
- Wiping action. If there's metal, spring-loaded ridges in the connectors designed to scrape along the sides of the pins, and the pins are thick enough, it can wipe the corrosion off.
- Arcing. One sees this on relay contacts. As the contacts open/close with a high enough voltage, a little arcing occurs which tends to blow corrosion products into vapor. It also pits the connector (or switch) where this occurs, but this is why connector/relay engineers are paid the big bucks. (This is also the reason that old city-power switches die after a dozen years or so of use: After N number of cycles of arcing, the switch contacts become junk.)
But, so long as we're talking about silver contacts: I have to ask the OP. Got a lot of odd vapors in your garage? If you leave a silver spoon on top of a surface, does it get funny colored after a week? Do you live downstream of an air polluter, and yellow skies are in your typical forecast? Doubt all this, but gotta ask.
And, then there's this screwy idea I've got. Um. So, I've never seen the guts of a Tesla connector, the version in the car, anyway. But a typical way of getting a wire onto one of those pins would be for the inside, car-end of the pin to have a cup, large enough to put a nice, thick wire into. Tightly.
There's two ways I can think of for that cup and wire to become connected:
- Crimp it. That's, like, really common for bog-standard automotive grade connections. But this sucker is seriously high current.
- If one wants really low resistance on a cup-to-wire connection, one solders it.
And this is where things can go wrong. I'd like to think that any solder or crimp job would be highly automated; i.e., very unlikely for a mistake to be made. But say that the construction of that block-of-black-plastic-with-pins-and-wires was farmed out to some supplier, and said supplier was doing hand-crimping or hand-soldering. And that's where things can get weird.
With a crimp job, let the die get damaged, or badly worn, and nobody notices, and there might be a slew of poor connections out there. Or if some hand-doing-it type has a Bad Day, or it's some New Guy who didn't quite pick up on the procedure..
With a solder job, it's all about cold and fractured solder joints. And those can be hard for the uninitiated to spot. With a proper solder job, the metals that one is soldering together are made hot enough to melt solder;
then the solder is applied. The solder will melt and wick into the joint. But that doesn't stop there. Solder actually
dissolves into both metals. One then backs off and lets the whole business cool. When finished, there's supposed to be a smooth transition from <connector-on-one-side-with-no-solder> to <connector-on-one-side-with-increasing-solder> to <solder only> to <solder-decreasing-on-the-other-connector> to <pure metal of the other connector>. No air gaps, thank you.
When done right, everything is shiny and smooth. And the joint, no kidding, is stronger than the wires.
- Cold solder joint: Heat the cup and the wire, but maybe not enough. The solder might wick onto the cup, but not the wire, or vice versa. Whatever it got wicked onto will look nice and shiny when cool, but the edges of the fillets will be abrupt. There might be incidental contact but, where stuff wasn't soldered, corrosion (just the O2 in air, mind you) will slowly increase over time, raising the resistance.
- Fractured joint. Some solders go from liquid to solder Just Like That. A lot more of them have a plastic phase. If one is in the plastic phase and the joint/wire gets moved (manufacturing process line moving too fast, maybe?), the plastic solder can fracture, leaving a microscopic crack interior to the solder. Yeah, corrosion, time, expansion and contraction, and, eventually, high resistance.
So, in the terms of What Could Possibly Go Wrong?
- The original failure could be, well, original.
- The second failure.. I'm a-wondering if the techie at the Service Center got given a connector body without wires attached. Crimp job or solder job, but then was told to Just Do The Job. IF that was the case, the list of possibilities just get Right Up There. It takes training and kill to Do It Right; not that everybody who does a bit of soldering touch-up needs to be God, but there are Reasons there are NASA-certified soldering technicians who get qualified and tested every three months, and get paid princely salaries for their work. (Think: Voyager spacecraft, still chugging after all those years with not a repair person in sight.) Some well-meaning gonzo at an SC isn't in the same category.
So: Does anybody have an idea what the connector in a Tesla, on the wiring side, actually looks like?