Hi guys. I recently got me a Tesla Model S. It is a P85 with pneumatic suspension. Using a Copart term, it now ‘Runs and Drive’, but it will need a little teeny weeny bit of work to make it perfect. It had suffered a little bit of undercarriage damage on the friont and rear LHS suspension (see attached pics) when I bought it. You could not tell the extent of damage from the ‘enhancement’ (another Copart term) and online auction pics (Copart encourages everyone to inspect or use inspectors prior to placing a bid). I finally paid for the vehicle for the battery modules for my solar setup if repair unsuccessful. But so far, so good. It will run. I have replaced the faulty bits of the front suspension and rear suspension except the rear pneumatic strut. Elon will recommend that I took it to the nearest Tesla bodyshop for additional work and checkup but seeing that I am more than a couple of miles from the nearest Tesla dealership (I live in Lagos, Nigeria), I will need the help of the community to get it fixed. Elon his keeping his plans for Africa close to his chest at the moment. Meanwhile I will learn all I can about the Tesla in an off-road environment in order to assist him when he is ready. Here are a few bits I have learnt – Bolts and nuts attaching suspension linkages are fitted in a particular orientation with respect to the ends for the bolt and the nut. This has to be followed or the end of the bolts will rub against the rim or against moving linkages. It might also explain some mysterious suspension issues documented by others following repair work. A USA Level 2 Charger will work just fine on European or Nigeria 240 volts 50Hz utility mains. Connect L1 and L2 terminals to Live and Neutral respectively. I am using the Siemens VersiCharge EVSE Level 2 Charging Station with a Tesla J1772 adapter (also working on a Smart FourTwo EV and a Benz 250e using J1772). With this charger, do not set any current limit option in the charger unit. Set current limits only on the Tesla charge screen menu option, else it will not work. Vehicle is indicating 12V battery needs replacement. I understand from the forum that 12V batteries do go bad on the Tesla. It appears to have the original red battery. I have put a BatteryMinder on the battery to see if I can revive it after isolating HVIL loop and removing the negative terminal. I need assistance with the following - How do I release the pressure in the line of the LHS rear strut before removal? I do not have access to ToolBox so I cannot transfer air in the strut to the reservoir tank in order to replace it. Should I just go ahead and slowly undo the pneumatic line nut and leak out the line? How do I get ToolBox to work? I do I get the Tesla App and Password? How do I permanently disable updates from popping up each time I start the car? This is a 2013 model. Current update is at V8.0. Do I really need additional updates? Its 2013, not even sure it has auto park, and certainly not AP. The vehicle arrived with zero charge and the 12v battery dead. It took charge but will only charge to about 24 0 miles. I also lose about 5 miles overnight each day. Is this normal? Vehicle has done approximately 65,000 miles. There is a small tear in the chassis from the catastrophic event that damaged the front and rear suspension. What type of aluminum electrode should I use for the repair and at what current setting? I intend to disable HV battery HVIL loop and isolate negative terminal prior to any welding? Also drill out the end of the tear prior to filling and welding. I can see that Tesla used rivets and glues around the area of damage, but seems little option but to weld? Looking at the location of the chassis damage, are there items I need to disassemble or remove from inside the rear trunk prior to the weld (cables, lining e.t.c) ? Any other precautions needed? I got just one key fob, How do I get a spare key. Thanking y’all for your help and assistance. Cheers.