Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Model S Plaid Brakes Are Terrible!

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Done!
 

Attachments

  • 9F78FA60-EFAC-4E8F-B707-AEAB4A1EEC8A.jpeg
    9F78FA60-EFAC-4E8F-B707-AEAB4A1EEC8A.jpeg
    663.1 KB · Views: 169
  • 30CA0A26-F5F0-4D68-B300-F61D2F871E0D.jpeg
    30CA0A26-F5F0-4D68-B300-F61D2F871E0D.jpeg
    709 KB · Views: 129
Last edited:
We finally had a bit of spring weather up here yesterday so we were able to take the Plaid to the track with our new front splitter/diffuser and of course brakes.

The yoke is also gone and there's now a Model 3 wheel which is fantastic. The car is now a real weapon. For perspective, the plaid did a 1:14.7 on run-of-the-mill Michelin PS4S street tires - AND with water-soaked tires screwing up the first corner (thanks snow!)

Only a few years ago, our 350z racecar with a sequential gearbox and Pirelli slicks did a 1:13 and had the lap record for many years.

So yeah, this car is just a little bit unfair with how fast it is, and this is on a very tight and twisty track. I imagine the benefits will be significantly greater once the car can open up and the downforce can come into play.


1647634676440.png

1647634705725.png
 
Not trying to be a pain here ... but would you please provide links to each item you purchased?

Probably worth making the investment ... deciding whether to wait for Tesla's Carbon Ceramic kit (whenever it becomes available) instead
Do you like your solution better?
Fronts

Rears

Pads - you have to call them to order. Parts numbers are GPX191-GS-1 for the Fronts ($300) and GPX192-GS-1 ($240) for the rears
 
How about brake feel and linearity, pedal travel, etc?

The stock are just inadequate for my driving, I have to get on the brakes a lot harder and sooner than any other Tesla I've had.

teamPGR's opinion after 2 days testing now:

Get the MPP rotors (oversized fronts) the brake cyl brace and some good quality street pads and the car will be 100% better than stock. That will probably cover most people who have a plaid in our opinion.

For the 5% that want to lap at a road course add a set of legit track pads - GLOC makes R12's that seem to work for us so far at medium power levels on street tires. There are probably other good options that would also be fine or better. At half power you can lap ~15+ times until you run out of energy without any brake issues (or other issues with the car for that matter!) With higher power after a few laps the brakes will start to get hot and you need a cooldown and can then go again.

If you go to full plaid power levels you are going to need to do warmup laps, then single push laps with a cooldown lap between, but by that point you also should do all the suspension arms, shocks, aero etc. etc. and you need to talk to Sasha directly to get all the goodies!

Notably we have not tried real track tires yet - we are limited to >=200TW for our upcoming event so that's what we have been testing on. Will be interesting to see what that changes. We are braking at over a g and roughly the same laterally with the setup as is - which is really good! - but could be better with better tires.

One serious caveat - if you are a newbie - go get a different (slower/cheaper) car first to learn how to find the line, hit an apex, threshold brake, work well with others on track, etc. This is not the car to learn on because it is so extreme and because it's not really possible to lap all day given the energy constraints. I'm available for anyone who wants some Plaid driver coaching... :D
 
Fronts

Rears

Pads - you have to call them to order. Parts numbers are GPX191-GS-1 for the Fronts ($300) and GPX192-GS-1 ($240) for the rears
thank you !!!

Quick question ... who did your install?
Tesla service? Someone private? Do they have recommended installers?
 
teamPGR's opinion after 2 days testing now:

Get the MPP rotors (oversized fronts) the brake cyl brace and some good quality street pads and the car will be 100% better than stock. That will probably cover most people who have a plaid in our opinion.

For the 5% that want to lap at a road course add a set of legit track pads - GLOC makes R12's that seem to work for us so far at medium power levels on street tires. There are probably other good options that would also be fine or better. At half power you can lap ~15+ times until you run out of energy without any brake issues (or other issues with the car for that matter!) With higher power after a few laps the brakes will start to get hot and you need a cooldown and can then go again.

If you go to full plaid power levels you are going to need to do warmup laps, then single push laps with a cooldown lap between, but by that point you also should do all the suspension arms, shocks, aero etc. etc. and you need to talk to Sasha directly to get all the goodies!

Notably we have not tried real track tires yet - we are limited to >=200TW for our upcoming event so that's what we have been testing on. Will be interesting to see what that changes. We are braking at over a g and roughly the same laterally with the setup as is - which is really good! - but could be better with better tires.

One serious caveat - if you are a newbie - go get a different (slower/cheaper) car first to learn how to find the line, hit an apex, threshold brake, work well with others on track, etc. This is not the car to learn on because it is so extreme and because it's not really possible to lap all day given the energy constraints. I'm available for anyone who wants some Plaid driver coaching... :D

What did you do with the anti-rattle clips? I wonder how much "feel" is improved just by addressing the anti-rattle clips vs. the actual rotors?