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Model S Plaid heating system sucks!!!
- Thread starter Brake late
- Start date
This. Similar to what I mentioned earlier in this thread:
Model S Plaid heating system sucks!!!
My S plaid heating is also a problem at times. I sometimes find it blowing cold air with the heat on high (yes, ac is off) i actually found this also to be true. i have the car at 79/80 and its blowing semi warm air... i have to have it on HI for it to blow significantly hotter air. the...
teslamotorsclub.com
A heat pump can only efficiently work up to a certain temperature and then it needs a backup/auxiliary system in place to complement it. Most home heat pumps have a defrost cycle that runs to clear ice from the heat exchanger as well as a resistive backup unit in case the heat pump fails or if the system cannot produce enough heat due to low temps.
Also this (apologies if already posted here - I didn't see it):
Tesla is rolling out software 'fix' to heat pump issue in cold weather, but some think it's a hardware problem
Elon Musk announced that Tesla is starting to roll out a new over-the-air software update that includes a ‘fix’ to...
electrek.co
If a component necessary to the defrost cycle is freezing up and failing, there is no way the heat pump can produce any heat in subfreezing temperatures.
They didnt mention the Model S. Does this apply?This. Similar to what I mentioned earlier in this thread:
Model S Plaid heating system sucks!!!
My S plaid heating is also a problem at times. I sometimes find it blowing cold air with the heat on high (yes, ac is off) i actually found this also to be true. i have the car at 79/80 and its blowing semi warm air... i have to have it on HI for it to blow significantly hotter air. the...
A heat pump can only efficiently work up to a certain temperature and then it needs a backup/auxiliary system in place to complement it. Most home heat pumps have a defrost cycle that runs to clear ice from the heat exchanger as well as a resistive backup unit in case the heat pump fails or if the system cannot produce enough heat due to low temps.
Also this (apologies if already posted here - I didn't see it):
Tesla is rolling out software 'fix' to heat pump issue in cold weather, but some think it's a hardware problem
Elon Musk announced that Tesla is starting to roll out a new over-the-air software update that includes a ‘fix’ to...
If a component necessary to the defrost cycle is freezing up and failing, there is no way the heat pump can produce any heat in subfreezing temperatures.
planetary
EndlessCheese spreader
Have you validated that it's not the car pumping cold air into the footwells?
For example, turn all HVAC and blowers off. Does cold air still occur?
When I tried this (in California conditions, mind you), I didn't get cold air. But it was not a long test.
pp61
Active Member
All three Tesla's I had had poor heating. Major difference with my Audi Etron GT, hot air comes out from the moment I switch it on!
Waiting for the summer to check the air-conditioning, cannot imagine it will sound the same as the airplane engine soundsthat starts in the S and X I had in the past.
My 2021 Model S Refresh heats really well; the only issue is that there is a huge leap in air flow from fan speed 3 to 4. It goes from 3 nice flow you can feel just right and quiet, to 4 moderately strong blow and audible. Very non-linear along the 1-10 speeds. Hard to quantify but basically 4 feels like what 6 should be. If the car interior is really cold (which is rare) and I forget to warm it up before I get in, I'll run the car at 4 or 5 for a few minutes and then start sweating, and then turn it down to 2 or 3.
I did have an issue this past end of summer with my AC, which threw out cold air sporadically, sometimes room temp, and sometimes warm. Tesla fixed that along with 6 or so other items all at once (door seal coming undone, driver seat a bit loose on mounting rails, pop-out door handles getting stuck in the out-position, etc.) and since those all frustrations were remedied, and I no longer need to deal with what Tesla calls customer service, I am now very happy with the car. Also, i search online for self-help remedies for really basic stuff, and that has been a big help; for example, fixing a rattling rear passenger seat by putting electric tape around the metal of the latch (you can't see the latch unless the seat is down, and it's black tape applied carefully / evenly on a black latch so you really have to look for it to notice it).
I did have an issue this past end of summer with my AC, which threw out cold air sporadically, sometimes room temp, and sometimes warm. Tesla fixed that along with 6 or so other items all at once (door seal coming undone, driver seat a bit loose on mounting rails, pop-out door handles getting stuck in the out-position, etc.) and since those all frustrations were remedied, and I no longer need to deal with what Tesla calls customer service, I am now very happy with the car. Also, i search online for self-help remedies for really basic stuff, and that has been a big help; for example, fixing a rattling rear passenger seat by putting electric tape around the metal of the latch (you can't see the latch unless the seat is down, and it's black tape applied carefully / evenly on a black latch so you really have to look for it to notice it).
Hi everyone, I'd like to revisit this post after a whole warm season has come and gone.
2021 Palladium Model S: heating works fine in the sense that if I crank up the heat, I can feel it. Heated seats work. Heated yoke works. With all of this working, I'll set the temperature on Auto to 22 Celsius (~72 F). At 50 mph, -5 Celsius outside, I've got warm hands, and a warm back. But a cold left leg. From my left ankle to my left knee, it's just one cold surface. The speaker area is cold too (driver side). The whole plastic zone left of my left leg, is also cold. I can feel a faint draft.
@GassyBabyBlue , @PatP , @properly1 , @Midnightsun , @jaguar36 , have any of you had success with a service center appointment? I am secretly hoping that this thread has gone quiet because all of you are now happily and cozily warm...
... or you bought a warm car?
2021 Palladium Model S: heating works fine in the sense that if I crank up the heat, I can feel it. Heated seats work. Heated yoke works. With all of this working, I'll set the temperature on Auto to 22 Celsius (~72 F). At 50 mph, -5 Celsius outside, I've got warm hands, and a warm back. But a cold left leg. From my left ankle to my left knee, it's just one cold surface. The speaker area is cold too (driver side). The whole plastic zone left of my left leg, is also cold. I can feel a faint draft.
@GassyBabyBlue , @PatP , @properly1 , @Midnightsun , @jaguar36 , have any of you had success with a service center appointment? I am secretly hoping that this thread has gone quiet because all of you are now happily and cozily warm...
... or you bought a warm car?
chmax73
Member
That won't work for Europe, there is no "refresh" 2021 here. And this is an international forum. If you mention "2021 LR", for me is a Raven LR
I suspect you have a leak. There was lots of QA problems around that area. Usual symptom being noise. I’d try and have service check it.Hi everyone, I'd like to revisit this post after a whole warm season has come and gone.
2021 Palladium Model S: heating works fine in the sense that if I crank up the heat, I can feel it. Heated seats work. Heated yoke works. With all of this working, I'll set the temperature on Auto to 22 Celsius (~72 F). At 50 mph, -5 Celsius outside, I've got warm hands, and a warm back. But a cold left leg. From my left ankle to my left knee, it's just one cold surface. The speaker area is cold too (driver side). The whole plastic zone left of my left leg, is also cold. I can feel a faint draft.
@GassyBabyBlue , @PatP , @properly1 , @Midnightsun , @jaguar36 , have any of you had success with a service center appointment? I am secretly hoping that this thread has gone quiet because all of you are now happily and cozily warm...
... or you bought a warm car?
My non plaid Refresh is fine, for reference.
vcor
Tech Specialist
The 2016 was the original refresh with major changes, such as 7 new cameras, an AP processor, a new front end, and many other changes.
The 2019 brought us the "Raven" which included a number of additional changes such as a bigger battery and suspension changes.
I agree the 2021 LR/Plaid is not really a refresh as it is almost an entirely new design. Entirely new interior, new processors, new suspension, new motors, new electrical system, new heat pump, new HVAC, new battery system (although still with 18650 cells), and quite a few subtle body panel changes. It does look similar to Raven, but I see it as far more than a refresh. Most car companies consider a front grill change a refresh, and the LR/Plaid is so much more than it's predecessors.
The 2019 brought us the "Raven" which included a number of additional changes such as a bigger battery and suspension changes.
I agree the 2021 LR/Plaid is not really a refresh as it is almost an entirely new design. Entirely new interior, new processors, new suspension, new motors, new electrical system, new heat pump, new HVAC, new battery system (although still with 18650 cells), and quite a few subtle body panel changes. It does look similar to Raven, but I see it as far more than a refresh. Most car companies consider a front grill change a refresh, and the LR/Plaid is so much more than it's predecessors.
Ostrichsak
Well-Known Member
Model S > Refresh > Raven > Palladium
IMHO those are the easiest designators so people know what version is being talked about.
I can't find it offhand, but there is a post about a misplaced or detached bit of insulation that could cause this. If you are looking at the passenger side of the car, look at the quarter panel in front of the door. Underneath that there is a triangular area accessed through the wheel well after removing the liner. It's just bit of foam that supposed to be bonded to the metal. Some state the insulation block comes loose, but is trapped by the wheel well liner well enough to not bounce around.Hi everyone, I'd like to revisit this post after a whole warm season has come and gone.
2021 Palladium Model S: heating works fine in the sense that if I crank up the heat, I can feel it. Heated seats work. Heated yoke works. With all of this working, I'll set the temperature on Auto to 22 Celsius (~72 F). At 50 mph, -5 Celsius outside, I've got warm hands, and a warm back. But a cold left leg. From my left ankle to my left knee, it's just one cold surface. The speaker area is cold too (driver side). The whole plastic zone left of my left leg, is also cold. I can feel a faint draft.
@GassyBabyBlue , @PatP , @properly1 , @Midnightsun , @jaguar36 , have any of you had success with a service center appointment? I am secretly hoping that this thread has gone quiet because all of you are now happily and cozily warm...
... or you bought a warm car?
When that happens air can rush around it and cool the outer side of the area around your leg. It can also allow for some extra ingress of air, but it appears to be more just cooling the metal than actually making its way in.
My old 2013 S always had issues with the foot well though. Tesla only included one single temperature sensor for the interior, so if it was 70 in that one spot, it was 70 everywhere. Only really became an issue on longer drives as the temperatures diverged through not enough air movement in the car. Not sure about the palladium and what it uses.
vcor
Tech Specialist
On one cool day recently, I felt around the left side of my 2022 S. No air was coming in and the carpet was not cold, but I did notice the metal sill plate was quite cold. Perhaps that is responsible for some owners getting a colder feel from that side? Not sure what a fix might be for that. Both feet feel about the same, and I've not noticed any cold air flowing in from the firewall while driving.
In my prior S (a 2016 refresh) the floor air would be mostly directed to the left and my right foot would get cold. I used a thermal camera to access the airflow issue and made a redirection fix to even the airflow. Here are those details: Foot Warmer – TeslaTap
Tesla's airflow design was different and not a problem for me on my original 2013 S, nor a problem (for me) on the current 2022 S.
In my prior S (a 2016 refresh) the floor air would be mostly directed to the left and my right foot would get cold. I used a thermal camera to access the airflow issue and made a redirection fix to even the airflow. Here are those details: Foot Warmer – TeslaTap
Tesla's airflow design was different and not a problem for me on my original 2013 S, nor a problem (for me) on the current 2022 S.
MarcG
Active Member
And nor should it. An ICE vehicle wastes about 75% of the energy take from gasoline into heat. An EV only loses about 5% of the energy it draws from the battery into heat. So it’s a LOT easier to get heat out of an ICE vehicle than an EV.
Ostrichsak
Well-Known Member
With the caveat that you have to let it warm up for 10 to 15 minutes every time you drive before it even begins heating. This is far more inconvenient & wasteful than most ICE owners realize.
Let’s not forget that Model S built April to September 2016 have refreshed bumper and AP1 (I have one of these).
Ostrichsak
Well-Known Member
I have one too but I'm not sure why it was worth bumping a 7-month-old thread to point that unrelated detail out.
dbldwn02
Active Member
We should change the name of this thread to..."How to correctly identify the different versions of a Tesla Model S"
