I did some of my own investigating. I found some of the plastic under the frunk was not snapped in place. that didn't fix it. I found that if you push on the bumper on that side it squeaks against the front fender. this MIGHT be it, but I don't think it is. the thunk seems deeper.
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2021+ Model S and Model S Plaid Refresh Issues Thread
- Thread starter bmt00
- Start date
I made the mistake of turning on the setting that prefers "low" because I thought I was supposed to do it like on my X, but it turns out that on the highway it will go into low on its own, even without this setting, so def recommend not clicking that setting. The front clip on mine has mostly escaped damage, aside from a few scratches, but I'm just gonna put a thin plastic guard on it so I can stop caring at all.
Sbaimo
12/15 LR black/white 21” no FSD delivered 6/30
Sorry for cross posting. I asked this question In Delivery thread and received relies like. We wish we had ours to compare. So here is question.
Is the fob on my newly refreshed Model S LR the same size as previous S model? I want to buy a
Key cover so I can use it on my key ring.
Thanks in advance
Is the fob on my newly refreshed Model S LR the same size as previous S model? I want to buy a
Key cover so I can use it on my key ring.
Thanks in advance
I don't have an S, but I had the optional Model 3 fob and everyone says the same cases/straps fit the old S and the 3/Y fob, so I think you should be fine.
<tangent>
Strangely Tesla decided to use a weird 2330 battery in the new S fob instead of the nice boring standard 2032 in the 3/Y fob. I'm sure it has a bit more capacity, but that's gonna be annoying when it comes time to replace.
</tangent>
Could you not use the 2032 and expect a shorter lifespan? Or is there a form factor difference?
Not a battery expert.
the numbers are width X height in mm, so a 2032 is (counterintuitively) 20mm diameter and 3.2mm high (hence the whole debate about 18650 being dumb because the battery is 18mm wide by 65mm tall. this is also why tesla called the new cells 2170 instead of 21700 and 4680 instead of 46800).
annnnyway, the conductive bits in the fob touch the sides for '+', so you'd have to bend those slightly outward or tape it in place. Voltage is the same so it would prob work, but at that pt just get a stupid annoying 2330 batt and be done with it, i guess.
Chris++
Supporting Member
I just had PPF installed and these errors happened to me as well. We ended up cutting out the PPF that covered the sensors. It works perfectly fine now.
No PPF--the only thing I have is OptiCoat, but I was seeing this since I picked the car up in Fremont.
Seems close enough. I ordered those rubber key fob loop things from the Tesla store and they fit fine.
Sbaimo
12/15 LR black/white 21” no FSD delivered 6/30
Thanks Omar. I have that one and it fits. Looking for a nicer aftermarket solution. I have found a couple on Amazon.
Guilty of posting this in the delivery thread as well. Whoops.
Here goes:
I've had my refresh LR MS for a few weeks now. It's great, I love it. I've had a few issues here and there - keys not working (key card always did), can't set up phone key (no idea why), some under body panels hanging down (they push closed), and the center console door not staying in the open position - not big deal stuff. The car is beautiful and I'm loving it.
Until today.
Piled both my kids inside to take them to day camp. Doors opened fine (so one of the keys in my pocket must have been working today).
Got behind the wheel. Kids yelling "Netflix isn't working!" (They love it when I take them, obviously).
Wasn't just Netflix. The screen started flashing at me. Very screwy, something definitely wrong. Car didn't present reverse option (as it usually does, guesses direction, you hit the brake, you go) - didn't even give me the option to manually select forward or reverse.
I hit the menu system to see what was up. It opened fine, but I had several errors on dash screen. (emergency brake, traction, etc). Tried a soft reset.
Btw, soft reset much faster on the refresh, which is nice.
Car came back up. Problems persisted. But I needed to get the kids to camp, so I hit menu and the drive selector appeared at the left of the screen, and putting car into reverse worked. But no power steering. Turning this car at low speeds with a yoke and no steering assist is no yoke.
GPS down. Autopilot viz down. No regen. The car rolled as though in N when I took foot off the pedal. No auto hold. I've never used the brake nearly this much in a Tesla. It was freaky. And going around corners was crazy too. No stabilization, and the car wanted to swing super wide. Made me appreciate how much tech goes into the usual ride, when systems are actually working.
Error lights stayed on the whole time. Dropped the kids and called roadside. They had me power off from the menu system and wait 2 min. No dice.
I drove it in to service. They apologized, said they'd never seen these issues but it's not surprising given how new it is, and said it might be a wire or something. They found my an old MX loaner set to valet mode and told me to hang onto it for awhile.
Hope they can work out these kinks now and nobody else has to go through this. I tried to pull a K (3 point) turn while this was going on. Took 4 points to get there.
Here goes:
I've had my refresh LR MS for a few weeks now. It's great, I love it. I've had a few issues here and there - keys not working (key card always did), can't set up phone key (no idea why), some under body panels hanging down (they push closed), and the center console door not staying in the open position - not big deal stuff. The car is beautiful and I'm loving it.
Until today.
Piled both my kids inside to take them to day camp. Doors opened fine (so one of the keys in my pocket must have been working today).
Got behind the wheel. Kids yelling "Netflix isn't working!" (They love it when I take them, obviously).
Wasn't just Netflix. The screen started flashing at me. Very screwy, something definitely wrong. Car didn't present reverse option (as it usually does, guesses direction, you hit the brake, you go) - didn't even give me the option to manually select forward or reverse.
I hit the menu system to see what was up. It opened fine, but I had several errors on dash screen. (emergency brake, traction, etc). Tried a soft reset.
Btw, soft reset much faster on the refresh, which is nice.
Car came back up. Problems persisted. But I needed to get the kids to camp, so I hit menu and the drive selector appeared at the left of the screen, and putting car into reverse worked. But no power steering. Turning this car at low speeds with a yoke and no steering assist is no yoke.
GPS down. Autopilot viz down. No regen. The car rolled as though in N when I took foot off the pedal. No auto hold. I've never used the brake nearly this much in a Tesla. It was freaky. And going around corners was crazy too. No stabilization, and the car wanted to swing super wide. Made me appreciate how much tech goes into the usual ride, when systems are actually working.
Error lights stayed on the whole time. Dropped the kids and called roadside. They had me power off from the menu system and wait 2 min. No dice.
I drove it in to service. They apologized, said they'd never seen these issues but it's not surprising given how new it is, and said it might be a wire or something. They found my an old MX loaner set to valet mode and told me to hang onto it for awhile.
Hope they can work out these kinks now and nobody else has to go through this. I tried to pull a K (3 point) turn while this was going on. Took 4 points to get there.
headcase
Member
Like I said in my review a few weeks ago, the software feels very raw to me and I don’t consider it even beta level yet.
A couple of things, maybe new, maybe related to the summons issue. The first one is perhaps a dumb question, but, sometimes when the dumb summons out of the garage fails, I get the following message on my phone. What is the proximity sensor on my phone that is covered?
Issue 2: tried using smart summons for the first time. The car balked and said something along the lines of vision from the cameras was degraded. I know direct sunlight can be an issue, but the car was parked in the shade and was not particularly dirty.
I had this same error yesterday as well. It also made it so Navigate on Autopilot did not work, although standard Autopilot did. After a park and restart it’s been fine. I’m still on the old software.Got this today, which was a first--maybe 12.25.2 comes with some new error messages
View attachment 686201
Sorry for the hassles you had to go through but thank you for posting this. My Plaid (along with thousands of other Plaids/LR) has been on a containment hold since my original delivery date - last Sunday - with the only explanation being a “firmware update” was needed. Since it’s been several days without a fix, I figured it must’ve been a pretty significant issue but I haven’t seen any other posts like this until now. My bet is that this is what’s going on, in which case I’m slightly relieved that they’re holding onto it but still extremely frustrated by this half assed rollout. Clearly they’re struggling to debug the issue which makes me think some of the theories about swapping chip manufacturers due to the shortage could be true. Either way, chances are you’ll get it back around the same time all these deliveries are released. Can’t come soon enough!
This shift may now be manifesting in the issues cited.
new chips… new firmware
How Tesla pivoted to avoid the global chip shortage that could last years
new chips… new firmware
How Tesla pivoted to avoid the global chip shortage that could last years
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