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Model S Speaker to aftermarket speaker (guide)

My 2015 Model S had my door speaker burned out for ages and the sound is terrible. Finally, had found the place to buy a 3d printing speaker mount for Model. After reading and watching so many speaker reviews, I decide to go with Alpine S Series. So before taking out the door panel I prepare the following items



4 x 3D Print Speaker Mount

Alpine Speakers

Parallel Wire Connector

Sound insulation foam



So first I need to Prep the speakers before installation. Just connect the wire, I like them soldered. Add some insulation foam in between the speaker and the mount. Do the same for all 4 speakers.



I watched this videos from Andre Rink to learn how to get the door panel out, all 4 doors are the same.




Finally, I just cut the speaker wire from the car speaker and use the connector I bought from amazon. The door speaker is actually quite easy to replace.



For the A pillar is also not to hard, just un-screw one screw in the air bag plastic cover. Pull the A pillar out and you will find the tweeter. For the tweeter I just use the insulation foam to wrap around the after market tweeter, and push the tweeter into the A pillar tweeter socket.



After all the installation I would say its all worth, as I know many Model S owner also got their door speaker fail. After replacing the speaker it’s like a completely different car. The base finally comes back and I can turn up the volume and still getting very good sound quality.





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3D Print Speaker Mount, with this I no need to use recover speaker from the door
2.jpg


Foam tap around
3.jpg


I like to solder the wire not to use the stock connector
4.jpg


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Screw on the speaker to the mount

6.jpg

Just search on amazon for Parallel Wire Connector, can be found very easy
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Very easy to use, quick connect no need solder
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Since the tweeter is different size from the stock tweeter, so I just wrap some insulation foam around to increase the size. also the foam can also be a buffer
9.jpg

Remove the speaker can put the new speaker on. I just cut the stock connector and use the quick connector I have
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Dont take the whole a-pillar out, will be hard to put back in. Just take it half way out is fine

Cannot post more pictures, so I will post it in the thread
 
Very nice! I had my door speakers replaced last year but still need to upgrade my A-pillar tweeters and dash speaker. This is very helpful for the tweeter project I will be doing, thank you.

For the tweeter, can you elaborate on how you connected the wires? I have zero experience with that.

What size tweeter did you end up going with? I know they make different sizes...
 
Very nice! I had my door speakers replaced last year but still need to upgrade my A-pillar tweeters and dash speaker. This is very helpful for the tweeter project I will be doing, thank you.

For the tweeter, can you elaborate on how you connected the wires? I have zero experience with that.

What size tweeter did you end up going with? I know they make different sizes...
I just use the quick connector, which it locks up quit well.
I use the Alpine S-65C it comes with the tweeter, I use the insulation foam wrap around the tweeter to fillin the space.
 
I have Audiofrog GS components (tweeter, midrange, midbass) up front and they were easy to install and sound great (though I do have an aftermarket amp driving them). The tweeters snap into the stock locations with no modifications, the midrange also drops right in, and the midbass will fit in the stock door location with a new mount. There are 3d printed and PVC mounts available.
 
I have Audiofrog GS components (tweeter, midrange, midbass) up front and they were easy to install and sound great (though I do have an aftermarket amp driving them). The tweeters snap into the stock locations with no modifications, the midrange also drops right in, and the midbass will fit in the stock door location with a new mount. There are 3d printed and PVC mounts available.
I already replaced the door speakers with LH so I won't need to worry about that, but the tweeters and dash intrigues me.

So when you say "the midrange also drops right in", I assume you mean in the dash? Or are you installing this somewhere else?

If in the dash, did you need a bracket or anything? I know you mentioned in the other thread you disconnected the center speaker, so where did you mount these that they "dropped in"?
 
Yes, they go in the stock midrange holes in the dash by the windshield. You'll need to remove the dash pad to access them, and I'd recommend a super low profile ratchet-style screwdriver to handle the fasteners on the center and midrange. All cars have the holes, but only the ugpraded system comes with midrange drivers installed from the factory. The GS25 has little tabs you can break off to fit into various vehicles and a pair of them are sized perfectly for the S. No need for a bracket on the GS25 (or the GS10 snapping into the stock tweeter location for that matter).
 
Yes, they go in the stock midrange holes in the dash by the windshield. You'll need to remove the dash pad to access them, and I'd recommend a super low profile ratchet-style screwdriver to handle the fasteners on the center and midrange. All cars have the holes, but only the ugpraded system comes with midrange drivers installed from the factory. The GS25 has little tabs you can break off to fit into various vehicles and a pair of them are sized perfectly for the S. No need for a bracket on the GS25 (or the GS10 snapping into the stock tweeter location for that matter).
Amazing! This is great, thank you.

So did you install 2 of the mids, left and right holes, and leave the center empty?
 

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