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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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So the SC determined that my charge port is bad and that in turn fubarred both my and my neighbor's UMCs. They are replacing the charge port and giving us each new UMCs.

I had early problems getting the UMC to connect. The cable would plug in, but the port would just stay white and not lock or charge. I would have to fiddle with is for a while before it would finally connect. They replaced the UMC a couple of times, then finally replaced the charge port on the car. Since the charge port replacement, it has worked flawlessly. I never got a red light or any kind of error.
 
A few days ago my auto-present handles stopped working. Walk-away locking also stopped working at the same time.

I've tried rebooting the touchscreen with no effect. Also tried toggling the settings off and back on again.

Around the same time my auto-tilt mirrors stopped working, but I was able to get them working again by resetting them.
 
A few days ago my auto-present handles stopped working. Walk-away locking also stopped working at the same time.

I've tried rebooting the touchscreen with no effect. Also tried toggling the settings off and back on again.

Around the same time my auto-tilt mirrors stopped working, but I was able to get them working again by resetting them.

Sounds it's not sensing the fob outside of the car. I assume you can click the fob to unlock the car and drive, which means it IS seeing the fob inside the car.
 
A few days ago my auto-present handles stopped working. Walk-away locking also stopped working at the same time.

I've tried rebooting the touchscreen with no effect. Also tried toggling the settings off and back on again.

Around the same time my auto-tilt mirrors stopped working, but I was able to get them working again by resetting them.

Was going to ask if you had accidentally forgotten one fob in the car? I've done that more times than if like to admit. Forgotten one in the car and come back with the other wondering why the handles don't present.

If the problem still persists, I've got ranger coming to town Thursday.
 
Was going to ask if you had accidentally forgotten one fob in the car? I've done that more times than if like to admit. Forgotten one in the car and come back with the other wondering why the handles don't present.

The other fob doesn't work. Tesla Montreal had some problems with my fob for some reason last time they worked on the car, and they reprogrammed it. Of course they didn't have the second fob at the time so that disabled it.

If the problem still persists, I've got ranger coming to town Thursday.

Yeah, he's dropping in on me as well.
 
Well, now the SC says the engineers from Ca told them not to replace my charge port. They wanted to run more diagnostics. They've now decided that an electrical surge in our development fried both my and my neighbor's UMC. They're keeping my car overnight to charge using a new UMC. They also sent out a new UMC for him to try as well. I have two 400 amp panels in my house, each with a whole house surge protector installed. Surprised that a surge like this got through to the UMC but bothered nothing else in my house.
 
Not really a mechanical failure, but I have to have a headlight replaced due to a small accident. Apparently they're in short supply because Tesla has changed the front of the car somewhat and are using a new design/format. Could mean repairs on early cars will take longer than usual to complete since over the long term there won't be very much demand given the small number of early Teslas.

Oh, apparently it's a $1200 headlight.
 
Aargh. This front passenger door handle is giving me a headache. Have to take it into the service center for the third time in 6 weeks. First, the handle used to come out but not let the door be opened. Tesla replaced the old-style handle with a new one. Then, the window started making a clunking sound as it went up or down; turned out that the door handle harness was loose. Now, there's a constant, loud rattle from the vicinity of the handle that I have to drown out with music.

Turned out to be this:

rattle.png
 
Has anybody experienced this problem yet? "Key not present; car unable to start" message when the key is in your hand inside the car AND it has a new battery. I've tried the Tesla suggestion of holding the fob close to the 12v battery/RFID source without success. Either it's the key or the car not recognizing the key. Either way, I'm currently stuck in a hotel in Greensboro, NC! I've called Tesla Roadside and it being 10pm+ they are getting a tech out from Raleigh, NC first thing tomorrow am (they say).
 
Has anybody experienced this problem yet? "Key not present; car unable to start" message when the key is in your hand inside the car AND it has a new battery. I've tried the Tesla suggestion of holding the fob close to the 12v battery/RFID source without success. Either it's the key or the car not recognizing the key. Either way, I'm currently stuck in a hotel in Greensboro, NC! I've called Tesla Roadside and it being 10pm+ they are getting a tech out from Raleigh, NC first thing tomorrow am (they say).

Oi. You try rebooting both screens and doing stuff like exiting the car, lock/unlock ... ?
Placing the key in the cupholder area?
 
Has anybody experienced this problem yet? "Key not present; car unable to start" message when the key is in your hand inside the car AND it has a new battery. I've tried the Tesla suggestion of holding the fob close to the 12v battery/RFID source without success. Either it's the key or the car not recognizing the key. Either way, I'm currently stuck in a hotel in Greensboro, NC! I've called Tesla Roadside and it being 10pm+ they are getting a tech out from Raleigh, NC first thing tomorrow am (they say).

I've had that happen sometimes when my key has been in my pocket (I suppose a certain way or certain angle) but taking it out and moving it around a bit has always made the message go away and the car start. Perhaps try locking and unlocking the car or resetting one or both of the screens?
 
I've had that happen sometimes when my key has been in my pocket (I suppose a certain way or certain angle) but taking it out and moving it around a bit has always made the message go away and the car start. Perhaps try locking and unlocking the car or resetting one or both of the screens?

This has been my experience. Hasn't happened in a while, but it has happened, and I just wave the blasted fob around while grumbling, and the car stops being persnickety and I am allowed to proceed.

Nowadays what happens a lot is my UMC charger plug's button doesn't pop open the charger port, and I have to wave THAT around grumbling before the car stops being persnickety and I'm allowed to proceed. :)
 
I've tried all these suggestions already. No such luck. I'm thinking the RFID transmitter onboard the car is bad. I'm really surprised they didn't consider some way of remotely bypassing the onboard system, something I believe OnStar will do.

2 Tech's from Raleigh SC are on their way here. They say it will be fixed on site one way or another.
 
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In regards to the klunking sound from the motor I described earlier.

The service center checked all suspension points and retorqued them. They also checked the motor mounts and they are fine too. The determined that the sound is coming from within the motor.

They let me take our car home and they will be bringing us a s60 loaner next week so they can do a drivetrain diagnostics with the engineering team from CA. I was told that they may end up replacing the drive train.

They would have kept it today but they only have s60 loaners and I need an 85 to get home. (I was puzzled by the s60 loaners, I thought they were only doing p85+ loaners, perhaps they are trade ins from people buying the p85+'s?) I will let you know what the issue is once they find it.

Updated: oh yea, they told me they didn't notice it with creep turned on. Since we have always driven stick, we keep creep turned off. I think the creep function hides it by always having torque on the motor.

Just got off the phone with service. They are replacing the drive unit. We should have our car back tomorrow.

We have a P85 for future reference if this happens to anyone else. Can't wait to get our car back. It will have V5.9 too
 
Update: The 2 tech's from Raleigh arrived and determined my old key was the problem. Possibly dropped and internal damage causing the car not to recognize the key. They had 2 new keys with them and programmed them for my MS. I was back on the road by 12pm :smile: Could any franchise dealer do that? No way!

The Tech's from Raleigh about to go to work

IMG_20140327_103920[1].jpg


The new keys

IMG_20140327_105325[1].jpg
 
I've had that happen sometimes when my key has been in my pocket (I suppose a certain way or certain angle) but taking it out and moving it around a bit has always made the message go away and the car start. Perhaps try locking and unlocking the car or resetting one or both of the screens?

I've had my car for 2 weeks and this has happened twice. Key fob was in my coat pocket that I was wearing and I got that message.
Waved fob around and waited a minute or so and car would turn on.