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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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Picked up my shiny new S75D a couple of weeks ago. Was out of town the last few days and when I got in the car this morning, the display was blank. I was able to shift and leave for work, but no AC, radio, maps, etc. After about 15 minutes, the display booted with no explanation of what was going on. Is this normal, Any thoughts?

My one week old Model X did the same thing yesterday. I have the new MCU and firmware that doesn't allow you to re-boot by pressing both scroll wheels. I waited in my driveway, but it didn't come back. I used the Power Off button on the touchscreen and waited for the system to re-start at which point my center dash came back on. Weird. Never had that kind of thing, ever, with my 2013 Model S.
 
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I have a (European) Tesla Model S from March 2018. While connecting a BlackVue dashcam according to
and Ultimate 2018 Tesla Dashcam Guide | TeslaTap I have noticed that the wires for the 'intrusion module connector' are not configured as described. I'm measuring ~10 V, not 14 V, on the red plus black striped wire. On the middle green with red stripe, I'm measuring 14 V. The black wire is still ground. To avoid powering this dashcam to the LIN bus, I want to be sure which wire to use. One other person asked this question recently under that YouTube video. So when did the configuration change and what is what for these new models?
 
tonight I found that the rubber piece on the inside of my charge door fell off. There are two pins for alignment but they don't hold it in place.

I'm under warranty but the question for everyone is -- how big a deal is this? Knowing the Tempe SC they might need a few weeks to get a new door or flap or whatever is wrong, and of course it's supposed to actually rain in AZ this weekend.
 
tonight I found that the rubber piece on the inside of my charge door fell off. There are two pins for alignment but they don't hold it in place.

I'm under warranty but the question for everyone is -- how big a deal is this? Knowing the Tempe SC they might need a few weeks to get a new door or flap or whatever is wrong, and of course it's supposed to actually rain in AZ this weekend.
Same thing happened to me. I drove it this way until Tesla fixed it the following week. Rain and car wash did not affect anything.
 
tonight I found that the rubber piece on the inside of my charge door fell off. There are two pins for alignment but they don't hold it in place.

I'm under warranty but the question for everyone is -- how big a deal is this? Knowing the Tempe SC they might need a few weeks to get a new door or flap or whatever is wrong, and of course it's supposed to actually rain in AZ this weekend.
Mine fell off about six months ago. I stuck it back on and it's still there. I'll have them address at the next service appointment.
 
All I wanted to add is that I agree completely, that ability to do independent repair on Teslas is going to become much more of a desired thing. I'm driving a 2014 Model S P85D that was purchased used, and has no warranty left besides the remaining 4 years or so on the battery and drivetrain.

I've seen a few YouTube videos that illustrate various service procedures (such as repairing the stuck door handle problem), and time and time again? It looks like so many of these things can be solved with just a few dollars worth of parts and a lot of patience to do a bunch of disassembly and reassembly that's required.

I think because these vehicles are still so expensive, a lot of owners just take a hands-off attitude that they'll let the authorized Tesla service people handle everything and pay whatever it costs. But quite frankly? The attitude that "If you could afford to buy one of these cars, you can afford to pay the repair costs to fix it!" doesn't accurately describe an increasing number of owners.

I just read about a guy who got a $4,500 repair bill for his Model S with around 120,000 miles on it. Basically, they swapped out all 3 coolant pumps in the car, plus a few related gaskets, seals, etc. The general reaction was, "Great deal if that's the only major repair you've had to pay for so far!" My reaction would be a lot different..... I've seen entire 4 cylinder engines get swapped out with rebuilt replacements for that kind of money. There's GOT to be a cheaper way to service something like that!

The crowd buying the used 2012-2014 Tesla S's with higher mileage, from various used car lots, are NOT necessarily financially well off. They may just be making a stretch to make that monthly car payment with the idea that the savings on gas and oil changes will allow it to be doable for them. These people are going to be VERY interested in independent shops that can actually service a Tesla. I know some parts are going to be difficult to source, but that's also where general knowledge of cars might help places offer non OEM substitute parts that may even be superior to the originals.


Greetings all - I have owned/worked on a wide variety of cars and airplanes, so I am not a novice mechanic [although not a professional either!]. I have also worked on high voltage radio frequency amplifiers, so have a great respect for the lethality of the juice.

With that as a preamble, is it reasonable to think that an owner of a Tesla can do serious work on their own vehicle? Taking the infamous "milling noise" as an example, this seems to boil down to all steel bearings getting pitted by very high EMF. The fix seems to be an off-the shelf SKF ceramic-coated bearing. Is this someone who as worked on Jaguar fuel injected V12's pull off? This will get to be a more serious question as more and more model S cars go off warrantee.

Perhaps I havn't looked very hard, but I don't see many references to this sort of thing?

best,
 
Picked up my MS 75D yesterday and have had to hard reboot the car a lot already. The drive back from the delivery center was fine, but when I got back into the car later, both screens were off and I couldn’t shift the car into reverse or drive. I was able to open/close the windows and the car did auto lock / unlock. After a hard reboot, everything came back although I did see a flash of a low battery warning.

I was playing around with the settings and all of a sudden both screens just shut off with a noise that sounded like power going out all of a sudden. Hard rebooted again and it came back. The delivery specialist did say that they found my screens off once and that it’s because there was a pending update, so I installed the update. That did seem to fix things, but I get back in the car this morning and once again, both screens blank, can’t shift it, had to hard reboot. Has anybody experienced this before?
 
Is anyone else having to reboot the MCU after each update?

The first previous update, my audio broke, until i rebooted the MCU.
The last update, my traffic broke from navigation until i had to reboot the MCU again.

I think the next update i get, i will just reboot the thing before i even notice something is not working, because it seems to become a trend now.
 
Is anyone else having to reboot the MCU after each update?

The first previous update, my audio broke, until i rebooted the MCU.
The last update, my traffic broke from navigation until i had to reboot the MCU again.

I think the next update i get, i will just reboot the thing before i even notice something is not working, because it seems to become a trend now.
You will find opinions vary greatly as to if you should manually always force a reboot after installing an update.

IMHO as an X-programmer and tech support guy in my previous business life, I would have forced a reboot with my update or in its instructions if that is what my changes required... but, to your question, I personally let the Tesla update do its thing and if I end up with odd issues later that may or may not have been because of the update, I do the manual reboot then — I don’t do one myself each time.

While I’ve had considerable USB Media Player problems since I took delivery coming up on 3 years (see Comprehensive USB Bug List for that detail and help with long standing USB MP problems) that sometimes cause unexpected reboots or my needing to force one to correct MP failures, off the top of my head I’ve forced a reboot after a firmware update well less than half the time... maybe even <25%... hard for me to be more precise as I have not kept those records. I personally would not say you should do it unless you find the need, but we’re each different in that regard...
 
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Model S P100D: 136 days of ownership, 3 Service Center Visits, 13 days out of service, 1 Major Issues (Air Suspension Failure)
Model X 100D: 105 days of ownership, 3 Service Center Visits, 33 days out of service, 1 Major Issue (Parking Brake Needs Service, which rendered car undrivable) - Filed for Lemon Law Protection in NJ just to be sure

Well, in my case:
Model S 100D: 95 days of ownership, 1 SeC visit, 1 day out of service, no major issues (never had a warning light)

SeC visit was because of a misaligned door seal at delivery. That has been fixed. It's not all bad!
 
Is anyone else having to reboot the MCU after each update?

The first previous update, my audio broke, until i rebooted the MCU.
The last update, my traffic broke from navigation until i had to reboot the MCU again.

I think the next update i get, i will just reboot the thing before i even notice something is not working, because it seems to become a trend now.

I had some audio issues (audio stop working) with previous firmware versions. I haven't had these issues since 2018.26.
2018.26 seems more stable in general, haven't had to reboot once since that version
 
My 2013 (CPO) almost completely bricked yesterday. I drove home fine. Went back to the car after a few hours to retrieve something and the doors would not open. Key fobs would not work. Phone app did not work. Tesla central command could not get it to open. The charge port would open via phone and it would take a charge. Tow truck came and after 2 hours of trying finally just towed it. That was not a pretty sight seeing it dragged a bit.

I live in the LA area and drive the car everywhere for work. Sometimes I am in the middle of the desert between here and Las Vega. Sometimes I am in the ghetto. Being completely locked out of a vehicle is unnerving and potentially life threatening for me.

So I searched the internet and did not see many similar experiences. I really love the car, this lockout thing has me seriously reconsidering the purchase.
 
Just took my 2014 P85+ in, the MCU started having bubbles show up under the screen, it was under CPO warranty so free...yay.

2 issues I have one has been awhile

The AC motor is LOUD, about 4 times louder than the loaner they gave me and it vibrates my leg when its going full bore, they said everything was working and there was nothing to be done, is this normal for an older model?

about a week ago 89.3 started having static all the time, less in some places, but its still there I have never had this issue with this car before. I checked and its basically any station below 90MHz. They are checking with engineering, but it seems to me that some part of the antenna failed. (its not the MCU because it was just replaced) The only thing I can think of is that the end of the antenna had something happen to it... lower frequency = longer wavelength = longer antenna.

I doubt that they will fix it and that annoys me, but where is the antenna located so I can see if there is any damage near it?
 
Hello all,
Has anyone here experienced an issue with the MCU display where a yellow-ish ring appears near the outer edge of the screen? This is the second time I am having this issue. The MCU had to be replaced the first time. I don't want to have to wait for another replacement if this ring is just going to appear again. But on the bright side, I might get the newer version of the MCU.
 
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