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Discussion in 'Model S' started by DrComputer, Sep 27, 2012.
Yes, "common" issue: screen discoloration
I had the MCU yellow ring in my 2016 S90D. I requested service deal with this in early September, so they said would call me. Following week they said screens are back ordered. Since end of quarter was September I decided to let them deliver cars and not bug 'em. So two days ago I called and was told that mobile service could do the replacement NEXT DAY and (of course) in my garage!
Tech did a beautiful job, arrived exactly on time, phoned me and sent a photo of the new screen when it was finished, and my S is now perfect once again.
My MS started doing this earlier this week. Now it does it pretty much every time I drive for an extended time. I re-boot and it comes back up. I have called Tesla Service each day this happens and they keep saying they will read logs and call back. They never call back.
Caution to all AP1 2014 owners with Subzero package that want to update to v9.0.
I updated this morning and can no longer find that all weather/subzero menu anywhere.
Help needed, please?
From email I received with pointer to some of the changes (Discover Software Version 9.0), touch the seat icons at the bottom of the screen to access all cold weather options.
...V9 just completed installation on my MCU1. I can do a light touch of the fan icon and a pop-up appears with the cold weather options.
Great link BertL. Thanks. I found everything I needed.
I have to change rear wheel bearings. What is the hub nut size?
Anyone have a Psi go haywire?
My right front tire is set to the same pressure as all the other 3 and yet the sensor says pressure low. I suppose faulty tpms? The 19” rims/tires weren’t just put on the car for colder season. Within a day, it started mis reading.
Any reset here or just goto SC?
With the 9.0 update is Navigation now always onscreen? Most of the time I don’t need it (I know how to get to work and back!) but there doesn’t seem to be any obvious way to dismiss it. Am I missing something here?
With a UI change this big it would really have been nice to have more detailed info in advance before installing the update.
Short answer: No, the map is always present and can't be completely hidden in V9.
Software Version 9 for Non-AP/Classic Cars
There are several other V9 threads for AP cars, if you look around for them.
When I driving my model s, all two screens reboot itself and then all the systems failed including tc abs ..... and the system ask me to call the service centre. Sometimes the two screens keep rebooting and never stop.
My model s had this problem so many times. And the service staff run the full check about 5 times and cannot find the reason.
Last week they said maybe it caused by some unknown system problem and the v9 can fix it.
But I just cannot trust them after so many failures.
Who can help my car? When I drive the car on highways it is just so scary
My front suspension has been making noise when I go over little bumps, but you can only hear it at low speeds (radio off) and it's getting worst now that my car is a year old. I also noticed that my driver side mirror is shaking when I hit bumps, time to visit the SC, this will take weeks to repair
Posting here from China for a very unusual problem?
Going from what you say you might find a reputable non Tesla mechanic and tell him to look for a bad ground for the electronics.
I’m having a similar problem (Not sure if it suspension related) where i hear a very loud metal scraping noise, after a turn or hitting small road bumps, tends to disappear after a while or at higher speed....2014 CPO, appt with SC tomorrow morning, hoping not to spend big buck$
have you inspected your forlinks? I know they had to be replaced on my 2014 a year ago and after that no more noise.
looks like there was something under the carriage, as usual 5m from the SC the noise stopped causing a slightly embarassed road test drive with the very nice Tesla SC people....anyway hope it was just that.
not sure what the forlinks are...
Tesla tells me that a broken rear subframe is “Normal wear & tear.” This is not normal.
Maybe it's just me, but I don't think a car's frame should shear apart under normal driving conditions. I also don't think that the subframe should be considered a wear and tear part that needs replacement at some interval. I'm attaching pictures, but basically, the connection points between the rear subframe and the motor ripped apart, literally tearing the aluminum plates apart. This happened with no collision or other trauma.
I really think this failure deserves structural/engineering analysis. Is this a weak point that is going to rear its’ head over and over as the fleet ages? The folks at the service center said that they had never seen this sort of failure, but that it could be normal wear and tear or that there was some “outside influence” which caused the problem. The only outside influence was when the service center changed out the drive unit on two occasions over the last 6 years. I have driven my Tesla over 165,000 miles, so perhaps I'm the canary in the coalmine. Regardless, failure of the frame structure seems to indicate some sort of a design or materials flaw to me. The part is non-moving and the stresses should be known and understood.
I truly believe the repair should be done under goodwill, but Tesla disagrees to the tune of $2035. Goodwill service was requested at the time the car was dropped off and I told them to go ahead and order the part at that time. The part took 10 days to arrive, and I enquired twice about the status of the goodwill request, but never got any response. My hope was that the no-reply on the goodwill was a consequence of the problem being forwarded up the line to evaluate the situation by both service, engineering and corporate on how to proceed.
I was taken aback yesterday when I was told that (a) we installed the part & (b) goodwill was denied. I never actually authorized the repair as I was waiting to hear about the goodwill before deciding how to proceed.
Given that this was a FRAME FAILURE, I fully expected this to be solved with great apologies under goodwill. Now I'm stuck scrambling.
Am I crazy? Suggestions appreciated.
That's crazy, especially since a good fab shop could have welded a new bracket for less than $100, and made it stronger than stock.
It's also possible the motor mounting bolt for that bracket was over tightened on one of the motor swaps and stressed the bracket.
That is a great thought the drive train was swapped just a couple of months ago. Upon hearing the thunk, the initial thought was that one of the mounts wasn't tightened, but over-tightening could do damage too.