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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

Discussion in 'Model S' started by DrComputer, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. 2101Guy

    2101Guy Member

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2020
    Messages:
    528
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    Hi all. 2017 90D. When I removed the plastic cover under the frunk this thin hose was dangling/wasn’t attached to anything on the other end that I could tell. Does this hose just dangle loose? Or does it connect to something behind the front bumper cover?
     

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  2. Fabricpath

    Fabricpath Member

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    Feb 2, 2020
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    Location:
    US
    Nope, that doesn't connect to anything.
     
    • Informative x 1
  3. Harris Littman

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2019
    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Brick, New Jersey
    Hoping someone can assist with the following?

    Model S Error Message: "12V Battery Must Be Replaced Soon" "Software updates will not complete until serviced".

    Can anyone give me a little insight into this issue.

    I have a 2015 (Late) Model S P90DL. I have never taken the main battery down below 30%. The car has been garaged for 2 months while COVID 19 has crippled the world. Only drove it 5 times during the 2 months. Cannot figure out why this 12V battery is an issue. Perhaps having the vehicle sitting too long?

    I am mechanically inclined and could replace this small battery myself. Just not sure of the part number and where it is currently located in the vehicle. The auto is under warranty but there is a disclosure of non coverage of this battery (Based on completely discharging the batteries while driving).

    Any relative information would always be appreciated while i research further.

    Wellness to all!!!

    Kindest Regards,

    Harris Littman
     
  4. 2101Guy

    2101Guy Member

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    Jan 6, 2020
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    528
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    2017 90D. Anyone know which color wire behind drivers side kick panel, is 12v switched? Earlier models seem to use a yellow purple wire but that doesn’t appear to be the case on my 2017 as I can’t find a wire that color
     
  5. MichaelP90DL

    MichaelP90DL Active Member

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    Apr 19, 2019
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    Location:
    Lancaster, CA
    Book a service appointment on the app. I had my 12-volt replaced a month ago. They sent a mobile service tech to handle it. Total cost, around $230. (This is the battery located in the frunk).
     
  6. thimel

    thimel Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2015
    Messages:
    584
    My early 2015 model S has had its 12 V battery replaced 3 times. Count your blessings if this is your first time.
    My understanding is that the vampire load on the battery is so high that it discharges and then gets recharged from the HV battery several times a day. It dies because of the number of discharge cycles.
     
  7. aerodyne

    aerodyne Active Member

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    Los Angeles
    Correct. Just replaced mine Saturday before the error message repeated. Load tested and found the old 12v lost 33% capacity in 2.5 years, 15k miles, since it was last replaced. This car has been stored several times for a month or more.

    I suggest replace every two years, only $160 from the SC, and easy to do.
     
  8. cdamon

    cdamon New Member

    Joined:
    May 7, 2013
    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    United States
    My 2013 Model S has suddenly gone dark. It is completely unresponsive. I drove it (got it washed) two days ago, did not drive it yesterday, and now it does not respond to the fob. The door handles, trunk, and charge port cannot be manually opened. The phone app reports "vehicle connection error", so I can't get in that way. When I parked it in my driveway it had over 100mi of charge, so the battery should not be empty.

    Is there anything I can try, short of calling Tesla service?
     
  9. aerodyne

    aerodyne Active Member

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    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Def call roadside assistance, see if they can wake the car up and check status.

    I had connection errors recently, but tried a few times and connected.

    If you feel handy, and have the Manual on your phone, or access to same, try popping of the nose cone and connecting a 12v battery charger to the terminals, or at least check the voltage on same.

    My car is currently on life support in this manner. Suspect DC-DC contactors are bad, not a good thing. I believe it will require pack replacement.
     
  10. cdamon

    cdamon New Member

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    Location:
    United States
    I called Roadside Assistance and they could only recommend I have it towed to a service center. Busy with work, I procrastinated and waited another day. In the morning I noticed that the location shown on the phone app had updated, went out to my car, and was able to get in and drive. Somehow it woke up. The tech that I talked to when I called said most of the firmware updates that had gone out to it had failed to install. Not sure what to make of that, but everything seems to work now.
     
  11. aerodyne

    aerodyne Active Member

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    Los Angeles
    Love procrastinators...leaders of tommorow!

    Glad you are OK. My car is off life support but still in ER ( Garage ) awaiting to be hopefully driven to the SC next week.
     
  12. Wol747

    Wol747 Member

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    Location:
    Australia
    I wanted to be a procrastinator when I grew up, but I never got around to it.....
     
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    • Like x 1
  13. amiral_sub

    amiral_sub Member

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2019
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    95
    Location:
    Bordeaux, France
    Hi, I saw that while the AC was on, only one of the two air intake at the front of the car was open. Is it normal or the both need to be open at same time?
     
  14. John 75

    John 75 New Member

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    Jun 9, 2020
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    Location:
    Devon, UK

    Hello,
    I have had three 12v batteries replace on my 75D. This seems to happen when the car has been parked for three or four weeks. Nobody at Tesla has been able to tell me how to avoid this if the car has to be left for a significant period of time. I always leave the car on charge. This time I left the car at about 60% charge and am trying using the app to wake up the car every few days and adding a little to the charge limit. Too soon to tell if it works.

    Does anyone know what causes the 12v battery to be recharged?

    I was also told that if the 12v battery drops to 10v, even just once, then the message will show for ever.
     
  15. craigger

    craigger Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2020
    Messages:
    42
    Location:
    San Diego
    FYI: Camera Alignment Required error

    The day after I got my Model S Performance, cruise+ap+FSD stopped working. I got a message saying "Camera Alignment Required"
    IMG_20200602_143627.jpg

    I took it into the service center and it turns out that the front camera was out of alignment. Here's what the estimate showed:
    Capture.PNG

    I got it fixed under warranty of course, just wanted to put this up in case anyone out of warranty ever has the same issue.

    Right now, it's going through the camera calibration - I'll post back here if there's any other issues with this.

    -craigger.
     
    • Informative x 1
    • Like x 1
  16. Bubb1es

    Bubb1es Member

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2019
    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    ireland
    Hi everyone, can anyone help me by explaining what this means, it's in the vehicle settings

    chg_vboosttarg 385V
     
  17. Gadget-X

    Gadget-X Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2020
    Messages:
    164
    Location:
    Destin Florida
    I had this also. The fix is a different angle camera mount in the Performance Model S. Took about 1 hours once they got the part.

    M
     
  18. aerodyne

    aerodyne Active Member

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    1,334
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    The 12v is charged by the main pack via DCDC converters behind the right wheel.

    If the car BMS detects any current leak to ground (HVIL loop) though its myriad of systems, the BMS will shut things down unless you are driving. There is a whole TN procedure for this.

    If the problem persists, try making a simple harness with 15A fuse to connect the jump posts to a good charger that puts out about 10a max and 14.5v max.

    You could also buy a plug in voltmeter as shown below, connect it to the harness, see pic of voltmeter... IMG_20200522_194232922.jpg
     
  19. NathanLew

    NathanLew New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2020
    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Wales
    I need some help.

    Recently bought a used Tesla Model S (2014) from a 3rd party dealer and have had it about a month and a half now.
    It's been running perfectly fine up until today, when I went to get into it none of the screens turned on and when I pressed the break pedal it wouldn't start up, the lights for the buttons on the steering wheel would flash on and back off quickly and the gear selector stick would stay lit for a few seconds but then go off and also there would be a very faint buzz that you could here but then that would also stop after a few seconds.

    It has been sitting in the garage for around 4-5 days without being used but it has been plugged in charging with a wall charger and when I press the fob the hazards flash and the doors open so it has power.
    But it just wont start, I can't connect to it with my phone either.

    Any help would be great.
     
  20. aerodyne

    aerodyne Active Member

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    Nov 19, 2018
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    Location:
    Los Angeles
    It is possible the 12V battery died, and the dealer ignored the warning.

    To see if this is the case, put a multimeter in the 12V socket. Anything less than 12 v will not allow the car to power up.

    If there is low voltage, jump the car with the posts in back of the nose cone. There is a procedure for this in the self help section of the Tesla site.

    It is also possible you have the problem I did, bad contactors, HVIL fault, or faulty DCDC converter. The first problem WILL be covered by battery warranty.
     

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