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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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I found this in one of you other thread posts. If you find any more verbage, please share if you can. But I think you posted it already.

Technician verified customer's concern. Found the car lost remote access to mothership. Technician
proceeded with running the routine to setup production vehicle. Verified proper operation.
That was all that was on the invoice. Good luck tomorrow. It will be a quick fix if the service center can take in your car.
 
Tomorrow I'm going to store check/buy this vehicle. It's 75D 2018. Does it look like heavy battery degradation? Would you skip this one? Does that huge spike in consumption affect on range estimate number in your opinion? Final chance to help me! Tesla's battery warranty is valid for years but I don't know how easily they would change it in case it actually sucks.

Edit: And I don't know yet if it is typical range or what. I'll check tomorrow that when I actually see the car
 

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I'm no expert but 315miles and looks like 90% charge for a 2018 seems pretty solid to me (no expert). My new plaid at 80% is 315miles (19" wheels) and I have to imagine they added at least 80 miles to the range since then. I saw a youtube video from a tesla fanatic that said filling it to 100% then fully draining it helps reset some lost miles measuring. No clue if that's true but might be worth doing it once.


Update: Opps just realized that is Km so roughly only 195miles. Looks like your original new range was 259 miles. At 100% you maybe charge to 215 miles. So maybe suggests 17% loss. Not horrible but more degradation than expected for 3 years . Read that you should only expect 10% loss after 200,000 miles ( Tesla: Battery Capacity Retention Averages 90% After 200,000 Miles ). How many miles on the car?
 
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I'm no expert but 315miles and looks like 90% charge for a 2018 seems pretty solid to me (no expert). My new plaid at 80% is 315miles (19" wheels) and I have to imagine they added at least 80 miles to the range since then. I saw a youtube video from a tesla fanatic that said filling it to 100% then fully draining it helps reset some lost miles measuring. No clue if that's true but might be worth doing it once.


Update: Opps just realized that is Km so roughly only 195miles. Looks like your original new range was 259 miles. At 100% you maybe charge to 215 miles. So maybe suggests 17% loss. Not horrible but more degradation than expected for 3 years . Read that you should only expect 10% loss after 200,000 miles ( Tesla: Battery Capacity Retention Averages 90% After 200,000 Miles ). How many miles on the car?
95 000 km. Do you think Tesla could change battery for free under warranty?
 
It’s all about how the car was driven before, so this will be “projected” to the battery management to give the reading of the battery SOC. It’s a bit low for battery size of 75 (90%-315km) as this is my car’s reading (2016 S 70D). But if there is no issue with the cells I’m sure you will gain some back if you drive normally and follow suggested charging routine. I was able to get back app. 29km after I drove it home form centre of Europe. You should still have the battery and drive train Tesla warranty.
 
It’s all about how the car was driven before, so this will be “projected” to the battery management to give the reading of the battery SOC. It’s a bit low for battery size of 75 (90%-315km) as this is my car’s reading (2016 S 70D). But if there is no issue with the cells I’m sure you will gain some back if you drive normally and follow suggested charging routine. I was able to get back app. 29km after I drove it home form centre of Europe. You should still have the battery and drive train Tesla warranty.
May be worth trying that trick of charging to 100% and running it dry (NOT to 0 though of course...maybe 3%....once. At least 1 Youtuber have claimed it regained some miles.
 
Accidentally left my MS LR 2021+ in the driveway overnight and it dipped below 32 last night. This morning no screen would turn on.

I was able to move the car using the center console buttons, but the rest of it didn't come alive for hours after i parked it in the garage.

Anybody else see anything like this before?
 
Drive Unit issues

-Jan 2019 I bought 2012 Signature Edition Model S with 55k miles

-Before purchase I emailed Tesla asking for remaining warranty and received response: "The battery warranty ends 11/28/2020 the drive unit warranty ends 08/19/2021" ( I did find the 8/19/2021 date a bit unusual )

-1 month after buying I took to Tesla for milling noise from motor. They replaced motor under warranty with 1002633-
00-Q

-3 weeks ago car refused to drive (luckily was in my driveway) and showed Unable to start vehicle, Unable to drive. This is 30,000 miles since replacement drive unit.

-Flatbed to Tesla. Service Center stated car needs new 12v battery and a new drive unit for total of $7,500 (at least its not 12k like a few years ago) (they will put in a 1002633-00-T). After a few requests for good will service to cover drive unity replacement, as motor only has 30k miles on it, they declined saying cause was water intrusion. Tesla also will not recognize the Tesla customer service email from 2019 stating drive unit is covered until 8/19/2021.

-Car insurance agent said comprehensive may cover this if was caused by water damage. But after car insurance inspector went to service center to inspect car they stated it was not a flooding / large amount of water issue but instead just moisture getting past speed sensor seal so will not be covered under insurance. During 'good will' request email discussions with Tesla Service Center they stated "Your current drive unit has water intrusion that’s why it failed which is not covered under warranty". As I understand Tesla is saying this was caused by too much water getting to car so wouldn't be covered under warranty anyway - And car insurance is saying this was a seal failure so not something comprehensive/flood insurance would cover.

So looks like I'm on the hook for a drive unit that only has 30k miles on it.
Hi Nate. What's the latest status of your situation? I have a 2017 Model S with water intrusion (almost definitely caused by rain). The battery pack and electronics are damaged and Tesla tells me that the car is totaled. They won't honor the warranty. It's nuts.
 
Hi Nate. What's the latest status of your situation? I have a 2017 Model S with water intrusion (almost definitely caused by rain). The battery pack and electronics are damaged and Tesla tells me that the car is totaled. They won't honor the warranty. It's nuts.
Others have had their auto insurance cover damage from water. Tesla claims, I suppose, the car was damaged by flooding. That is likely covered by your comprehensive portion of your auto insurance. If your insurance company does not cover it as flooding and says it is from rain and normal wear and tear, you can then challenge Tesla's decision not to pay for it. It won't be easy, and you will likely have to go to arbitration or court.
 
The BMS_w035 alert popped up on my way home yesterday.. initial searches online have several different reasons for this alert. From the battery heater, to drive train, to HV battery, to it being a fluke.

This is on a 2016.5 S75D with 42K miles

Things I've done since getting the alert:
  • Performed a soft reboot (four finger/brake reboot)
  • Opened a service appt since it that alert showed up in the app. Scheduled for 12/3 at the Knoxville SC
  • Charged the battery last night to 100% (I usually charge it to 80%)
  • I have preconditioning setup for 7AM everyday
I woke up this morning to two more BMS_w035 alerts while the car was charging.

Has anyone gotten this alert? Is it safe to drive until my service appointment?
 

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Hello everyone,
My 2021 Model S, 2000 miles in, is making these creaking/squeaking sounds when driving. It sounds like the sound made when you are squeezing a plastic bottle.

With a bit of observation, it definitely makes more sounds when the road is bumpy and also when it’s breaking to a stop. It’s not super loud but enough to be noticed and annoying since it wasn’t making these sounds before.

I’m wondering if anyone has experienced this and whether the service department can fix it. I have an appointment scheduled a few weeks out but they haven’t said anything about it being a known issue. There was, however, an option in the scheduling interface something along the lines of noise in the cabin.

Thanks all.
 
Hello everyone,
My 2021 Model S, 2000 miles in, is making these creaking/squeaking sounds when driving. It sounds like the sound made when you are squeezing a plastic bottle.

With a bit of observation, it definitely makes more sounds when the road is bumpy and also when it’s breaking to a stop. It’s not super loud but enough to be noticed and annoying since it wasn’t making these sounds before.

I’m wondering if anyone has experienced this and whether the service department can fix it. I have an appointment scheduled a few weeks out but they haven’t said anything about it being a known issue. There was, however, an option in the scheduling interface something along the lines of noise in the cabin.

Thanks all.
Sounds like bad control arm bushings, which shouldn't be bad on a new car unless defective. Don't click noise in the cabin for this.
 
TLDR - Loud bump or thump when reversing with wheels turned hard left/right

Just took delivery of a 2021 Model S LR refresh on 11/24/2021.

Pulling forward out of the parking spot at the SC for the first time, i turned the wheels sharp left and noticed a decently audible "bump" noise from the front wheels as I drove forward-left. Didn't think anything of it because I thought the lot might have had some gravel/rocks. But when I brought it home and reversed out of the driveway, this time with the wheels turned hard right, the same "bump" noise was reproduced and can be reproduced just about every time I reverse out. It feels like the wheels/tires are snagging on something and then released. The issue doesn't occur when driving forward or reverse straight.

Made an appointment for 12/7/2021 at the SC.
 
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TLDR - Loud bump or thump when reversing with wheels turned hard left/right

Just took delivery of a 2021 Model S LR refresh on 11/24/2021.

Pulling forward out of the parking spot at the SC for the first time, i turned the wheels sharp left and noticed a decently audible "bump" noise from the front wheels as I drove forward-left. Didn't think anything of it because I thought the lot might have had some gravel/rocks. But when I brought it home and reversed out of the driveway, this time with the wheels turned hard right, the same "bump" noise was reproduced and can be reproduced just about every time I reverse out. It feels like the wheels/tires are snagging on something and then released. The issue doesn't occur when driving forward or reverse straight.

Made an appointment for 12/7/2021 at the SC.
Funny you should mention this, have noticed the same recently when reversing and moving forward with wheels fully turned. I put it down to debris on the driveway but going to look a bit closer now.
 
This is about warranty replacement of the VCM to Upgrade 8GB eMMC. I don't know what that means, but they're willing to do it for free as a recall item. I've checked the threads I could find and don't yet have a satisfactory answer. I'm old and have owned a load of cars -- my experience has often been that when dashboards are removed and replaced, nothing is ever the same again. Our 2016 Model S is working just fine. Should I be on the "it ain't broke so let's not fix it" trail, or should I jump at the chance for some new hardware? Also, what's this I hear about the car being on the 3G network? Isn't that going bye-bye soon? Is there an upgrade to LTE or 5G?
Thanks in advance for any help with skulling this out.
Jim
 
Should I be on the "it ain't broke so let's not fix it" trail, or should I jump at the chance for some new hardware? Also, what's this I hear about the car being on the 3G network? Isn't that going bye-bye soon? Is there an upgrade to LTE or 5G?
Thanks in advance for any help with skulling this out.
I would say that you should let them do the recall. (Because sooner or later it will die.)

And yes, unless you had a retro-fit in the past you have 3G. There is a LTE upgrade that can be done at the same time, I think it costs around $300. (Though the price seems to change often.)
 
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Funny you should mention this, have noticed the same recently when reversing and moving forward with wheels fully turned. I put it down to debris on the driveway but going to look a bit closer now.
Yeah, I saw another thread that talked about it being due to cold weather affecting the tire grip but I've never experienced this in any other car. Will try to post a follow up after my service appointment.
 
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Rear driver's side rattle when going over driver's side speed bump that sounds like someone banging on the frame. First diagnosis at SC was "loose hinges on rear seats". Nope. Folded seats down, stuck wife in trunk (no jokes, please), reproduced with her saying it was largely in the direction of the charge port or lower. See my note (below) about charging door not working so there may be a link...