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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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I suffered a "steering assist reduced" in my MS60 2014

I read all about the Tesla recall steering column bolts SB-18-32-002 but besides cold weather, and bolt corrosion, another cause for the steering to fail is windshield drain water that enters the cable loom to the steering rack and finally makes it fail as was reported by Tesla technician.

Now Tesla SeC claims this is no warranty, driver cost, I am not the only one (technician told he saw ~3), this is a design issue!

I am quoted some 4500 USD! By text message, that is how support works in Europe nowadays.

Out of warranty and Tesla will be not so nice in times of trouble.
Your steering rack failed? At how many miles? I would think that could be replaced by an independent mechanic. Have you looked into someone besides Tesla, doing the repair?
 
What's EPAS stand for? Did Tesla ever fix this design flaw? I've never heard of this before.

EPAS=Electric Power Assist Steering. (Or something along those lines.)

If it is indeed a design flaw I haven't seen many people report having the problem. (So it probably isn't a wide-spread issue.) It could be that something went wrong with the assembly on a few cars that caused the cables to be routed wrong. (Like when a bunch of Model Xs has the AC lines swapped.)
 
Often they do through a recall if it's widespread.

Normally only if it is a major safety issue. GM never did a recall on any of their engines that had intake manifold gasket design issues. If you were lucky it failed in warranty and you got redesigned gaskets. If you were unlucky it failed right after you were out of warranty or your dealer used old stock of the bad design of gaskets.

Power steering going out could certainly be a safety issue, and they did a recall for the bolt failures, so if this is wide-spread I would think that they will do a recall eventually.
 
This is an update on the actual problem with my 2016 S. After 3 years and 25K miles, the rear drive motor failed. It was replaced under warranty but the cost would have been $5600 if the vehicle was out of warranty. The other thing is that it had to be towed to the service center on a tow dolly. I wanted a flat bed tow but it was not possible because the failed drive motor locked the wheels from turning, even when in “tow mode”. That was a harrowing experience, especially trying to get the tow truck close enough to my car in my garage on a slope. The attachment of the dolly to the front wheels was also hard to do in my small garage.

Today my MS 2016 Refreshed displayed the same error messages you mentioned in your post. Prior to these messages, it displayed “car needs service, car may not restart” but I was able to drive the car home anyway. Then it displayed “car needs service, unable to start car”. Now my car is no longer viewable in the Tesla mobile app. I can still unlock the car and when I get inside the displays power up but it shows “unable to start car”. I am going to get it towed to the service center. Maybe the problem will be the DC-DC converter that you mentioned. Has anyone else experienced a similar situation where the problem turned out to be something else?

One other thing I noticed is that when I was driving the car home after receiving the initial error message, the car could not accelerate smoothly. From a start, it would lurch forward when pressing the accelerator and sort of stutter until it got up to a cruising speed.
 
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I'm surprised tow truck drivers don't carry wheel dollies. Jack up the rear wheels and slide a dolly under each one, roll the car easily where you need to.
6158EXPfUXL._SX425_PIbundle-4,TopRight,0,0_SX425SY283SH20_.jpg
 
The other thing is that it had to be towed to the service center on a tow dolly. I wanted a flat bed tow but it was not possible because the failed drive motor locked the wheels from turning, even when in “tow mode”.

I have never heard of a flatbed operator hesitating to drag locked wheels up his ramp. They drag wrecks up the ramp every day.
 
Normally only if it is a major safety issue. GM never did a recall on any of their engines that had intake manifold gasket design issues. If you were lucky it failed in warranty and you got redesigned gaskets. If you were unlucky it failed right after you were out of warranty or your dealer used old stock of the bad design of gaskets.

Power steering going out could certainly be a safety issue, and they did a recall for the bolt failures, so if this is wide-spread I would think that they will do a recall eventually.

I think there is a whole dynamic behind recalls we don't know or cases we will only learn of when warranty expires.
I heard for below issue only a couple suspect cases were reported, but usually they were resolved under warranty
SB-18-32-002 - Loss of Power Steering Assist Due to Corrosion - 2012-2016 Tesla Model S

Now with most warranty expired (2014/1015 etc) cases like the one linked and mine and others turn up because now customers make trouble to the hefty repairs needed by arguably design flaws.

NHTSA may have reports on real accidents and causes and they may lead to these recalls, but not sure if that was the case here or that a customer just took on Tesla because of the issue and didn't give up.
 
I think there is a whole dynamic behind recalls we don't know or cases we will only learn of when warranty expires.
I heard for below issue only a couple suspect cases were reported, but usually they were resolved under warranty
SB-18-32-002 - Loss of Power Steering Assist Due to Corrosion - 2012-2016 Tesla Model S

There were actually quite a few people that had that problem here, and a bunch of them were out of warranty and Tesla made them pay for it until they finally issued the recall.
 
There were actually quite a few people that had that problem here, and a bunch of them were out of warranty and Tesla made them pay for it until they finally issued the recall.
Just corrosion on the bolts, or actual loose bolts and EPAS that cracked the steering rack? What is a quite a few and a bunch in numbers :)
And I wonder when Tesla does issue a recall, I guess they don't do it voluntarily, maybe NHTSA forces them?
 
I had a similar but not identical sound. I tried two things, adjusting the trunk lid so all the points hit solidly. To do this I used a thin layer of grease to be sure the points had contact. Then I pulled the rear wheels and checked the tightness of everything, mud shield on left rear was a little loose. Noise is gone, but I will never know which it was.

Thanks for you response, so I've actually got it fixed now. Service Center Hasselt was really helpful and solved the issue for me.
This was on the invoice:

"
Concern: Customer: while opening and closing the door, while entering and while driving there
is a peeping noise.
Please perform a test drive

Pay Type: Basic Vehicle Limited Warranty
Corrections: General Diagnosis
Issue caused by loose part in liftgate interior
Interior dismounted, part reattached , working as designed by Tesla
"
So it was coming from the trunk lid basically. Really happy it's fixed now. Hopefully it won't return.
 
Just corrosion on the bolts, or actual loose bolts and EPAS that cracked the steering rack? What is a quite a few and a bunch in numbers :)

Bolts that actually broke because of corrosion and the EPAS was no longer working properly. Sorry I don't have numbers but you can search the forum and find the threads if you are really interested.

And I wonder when Tesla does issue a recall, I guess they don't do it voluntarily, maybe NHTSA forces them?

It was a voluntary recall. (NHTSA didn't force them.) And they offered reimbursement to people that paid for the repair before the recall was issued.
 
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Car will not respond to key fob or app, press doorhandles and nothing happens, tried both key fobs. Built 8/2018 on version 10 but drove fine after the update. Plugged in for 2 days and now it seems to be so asleep it does not respond. The only response has been when I try to remove charging cable the light turns red, at first it was green or blue as normal. Guess I will be using roadside assistance when we finish dinner, good thing the car is in my garage and not on the road somewhere.
 
Hey guys I have a gen 1 Tesla model s. We replaced the LH rear door shell and updated the door handle Due to supersede parts. now trying to put it all back together. The dood glass is now not working at all. We replaced the regulator and still nothing. What do you think would be the cause? I double checked and triple checked the connections. Everything else works on the door just not the window.