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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues
- Thread starter DrComputer
- Start date
Transport Canada (2020 - 0975) just notified me that they concluded their investigation as follows:
"We have determined that a failure of the rear lower control arm on the Model S is not detrimental to the safe operation of the vehicle and will be deactivating our file."
Recall that Tesla Service Bulletin SB-19-31-001 "Replace Lower Rear Control Arm Assemblies" for Model S vehicles built Jun 1 2013 - Jan 31 2014 (mine was built in March 2013) described exactly what happened to my lower rear control arm. It no longer held the wheel in place (vertical to ground). That Service Bulletin stated that it addresses a known non-safety-related condition in which on certain Model S vehicles, either lower rear control arm might crack, causing excessive negative camber of the rear suspension.
Apparently, Transport Canada agrees with Tesla that excessive negative camber of the rear suspension resulting in the passenger side rear tire tilting into the wheel well such that the tire will no longer rotate is not detrimental to the safe operation of the vehicle.
"We have determined that a failure of the rear lower control arm on the Model S is not detrimental to the safe operation of the vehicle and will be deactivating our file."
Recall that Tesla Service Bulletin SB-19-31-001 "Replace Lower Rear Control Arm Assemblies" for Model S vehicles built Jun 1 2013 - Jan 31 2014 (mine was built in March 2013) described exactly what happened to my lower rear control arm. It no longer held the wheel in place (vertical to ground). That Service Bulletin stated that it addresses a known non-safety-related condition in which on certain Model S vehicles, either lower rear control arm might crack, causing excessive negative camber of the rear suspension.
Apparently, Transport Canada agrees with Tesla that excessive negative camber of the rear suspension resulting in the passenger side rear tire tilting into the wheel well such that the tire will no longer rotate is not detrimental to the safe operation of the vehicle.
Did you try using a wire-tie to reattach it to the control-arm?
Transport Canada (2020 - 0975) replied to my request for a fuller explanation of the basis for this determination with the following:
"No reports of loss of control. And testing verified this."
"No reports of loss of control. And testing verified this."
i.e. you can still safely pull over to the side of the road and call a tow truck. (It doesn't send you careening into oncoming traffic.)
Zapped
Model S - PURE EV
Looks like a catastrophic failure to me. How fast were you driving when it happened ?
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
I think that would depend upon the speed of the Tesla at time of failure. I think it is only a matter of time before your theory is put to a test involving another Tesla that experiences the same failure mine did.
That isn't my theory that is what Transport Canada, and I believe NHTSA, have said after their investigations. (Transport Canada said they even did testing.)
The following posts appeared on October 30, 2020 in Rear lower control arm failed - Page 2:
"pogonov_586147Posted October 30
"We have determined that a failure of the rear lower control arm on the Model S is not detrimental to the safe operation of the vehicle and will be deactivating our file" and added "No reports of loss of control. And testing verified this."
To: pogonov_586147
In addition to urging "all Tesla owners to contact the TESLA main office in CA as this could potentially be very dangerous if it happens while driving", have you personally referred your experience to NHTSA?
"pogonov_586147Posted October 30
2013 Model S delivered last week in 2013. Backing out of the garage and the
wheel goes wobbly. Rear lower control arm failed. At a closer look the cast metal
have pits in it. Clear manufacturing defect. Car at the Henrietta NY service center. Hoping Tesla will handle this well as I am a huge Tesla fan.
- pogonov_586147Posted October 30
Tesla is denying the defect. Just got a bill for $1400.00 Apparently it is a recall in Canada and in Europe. Not sure as the Tesla Model S was all made in California, USA.
- pogonov_586147Posted October 30
- This is what I did to get the car on a flatbed without causing further damage.
- Jack the up the car and remove the wheel. You will see that the lower control
- arm is broken off. I used a ratchet strap to pull the lower unit back into the remaining
section of the control arm to keep the wheel straight. When the car is on the flat bed I would put a support under the car during transport. The strap broke in transit so the tow truck driver had to
pull off the road. Car was jacked up and wheel removed. When we got to the Tesla
service center we put a new strap on to be able to move the car off the tow truck.
As I see lots of issues with the front upper control arm as well I will replace this to prevent
any catastrophic failure while on the road as well. If I had known about this defect I could have fixed. There will be a lot of damages like this as it appear to happen around 70 000 miles. I urge all Tesla owners to contact the TESLA main office in CA as this could potentially be very dangerous if it happens while driving. I was lucky as it happened pulling out of my garage. Still a TESLA fan but slightly disappointed."
"We have determined that a failure of the rear lower control arm on the Model S is not detrimental to the safe operation of the vehicle and will be deactivating our file" and added "No reports of loss of control. And testing verified this."
To: pogonov_586147
In addition to urging "all Tesla owners to contact the TESLA main office in CA as this could potentially be very dangerous if it happens while driving", have you personally referred your experience to NHTSA?
I was just beginning to move in reverse at bottom of my driveway towards my Tesla HPWC so no speed whatsoever.
cousin_IT
Face provided by boredhumans.com
When driving in my 2015 P90D I sometimes hear a ticking sound from the rear seat area. I recall reading something about a bolt ticking against the panorama roof. Could this be it? How do I recognize the issue and how easy is it to fix? I tried looking for the issue but can’t locate the right post.
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IslandHydro
Member
So I broke the drivers side mirror on my 2015 P85D. Tesla wants ~$700 to fix so I think I'll try it on my own. Looking at ebay it looks like they go for $2-300 for a used mirror. There are a few different part numbers, with this format: 1041317-00-? where ? varies from mirror to mirror (B, C, D, E, F). Any ideas? Worst case scenario I'll peel the door open and see what mine is, but if I can avoid doing that until I have the replacement part in hand, that would be nice. Tia!
IslandHydro
Member
IslandHydro
Member
Tesla parts catalog lists 1041317-00-G for my car (drivers side mirror), must be the latest part version. Opened up the door on my P85D, mines a 1041317-00-A. So back to the question of interchangeability... A lot of 1041317-00-F's on ebay, one G and a few A's. Anyone with experience on what is interchangeable?
IslandHydro
Member
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Sances
Member
2021 Model S LR with 1100 miles on it. Walked out this morning to load car for road trip and it will not drive. First clue is it wouldn’t open the trunk. Then the charger port was red (it does have a full charge to 80% (we plugged it in last night after a short trip and it was charging correctly). Get in the car and the steering wheel is locked, the screens are black if the door is closed (appear normal when door is open). Won’t recognize key. Won’t turn on. Just says “car off” with all the alerts listed in the photo.
talked to roadsde assistance and we tried a screen reset, a power reset. No change. Tow truck enrouge, but wondering if we did something wrong or if this is something obvious and a known issue. Thanks guys!
talked to roadsde assistance and we tried a screen reset, a power reset. No change. Tow truck enrouge, but wondering if we did something wrong or if this is something obvious and a known issue. Thanks guys!
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