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That seems a heck of a lot easier than running a lead all the way to the front. Is there any good reason not to take this approach?

Some people don't like splicing into an existing wire. Personally my reasoning for tapping into the liftgate power wire was that it's already there, fused (30A), and routed safely. Running another wire, especially exposed to the outside, seems at risk of getting torn off/damaged by debris or chewed on by a curious 4 legged friend. The tekonsha module is only rated up to 4A or something, so there's plenty of capacity for it. I used a quick splice sized for 14awg (2.0mm^2) and then wrapped with electrical tape. As long as you use the proper size and keep it far enough away from the connector to avoid tight bends in the wire there's no issue. You can easily find wiring diagrams online for any year/version of the car since they have changed colors a few times. I suspect that even though they change wire colors they don't change the power liftgate module often, so the pin number should be more consistent (that's a guess though not a statement based on any knowledge). I wish I had taken a picture, if I ever have that panel off again I'll be sure to.
 
Some people don't like splicing into an existing wire. Personally my reasoning for tapping into the liftgate power wire was that it's already there, fused (30A), and routed safely. Running another wire, especially exposed to the outside, seems at risk of getting torn off/damaged by debris or chewed on by a curious 4 legged friend. The tekonsha module is only rated up to 4A or something, so there's plenty of capacity for it. I used a quick splice sized for 14awg (2.0mm^2) and then wrapped with electrical tape. As long as you use the proper size and keep it far enough away from the connector to avoid tight bends in the wire there's no issue. You can easily find wiring diagrams online for any year/version of the car since they have changed colors a few times. I suspect that even though they change wire colors they don't change the power liftgate module often, so the pin number should be more consistent (that's a guess though not a statement based on any knowledge). I wish I had taken a picture, if I ever have that panel off again I'll be sure to.
Great feedback and I'm certain I'll follow your lead (no pun intended) whenever a tow bar is released for the refreshed Model X.
 
I want to add a hitch to my 2014 P85+, when towing your boat, do you know how many more kilowatts it took to get from point A-B and how far it was.
I know on the level highway it would be much less than taking off at signal lights, just looking for a rough estimate of the increased energy.
 
That would be a difficult question to answer in general. A lot depends on terrain, size of load, how aerodynamic it is, speeds you are running, etc. I can provide input based on my MY LR to put in perspective.

Towing 2 large jetskis, wider than the car itself and taller, my energy consumption goes up by about 20% at 55 mph, about 50% at about 65 mph. Above 65 efficiency plummets like a rock. Despite that, it is still cheaper to tow with than my last gas SUV I used in the exact same way.

Most I could go on a charge at 65 mph, on level roads, was about 160 miles and then I had to slow a lot until I found a charger. Planned on charging sooner but the one I stopped at was totally full so I went on a bit. I found I could drive about 70 mph on the highway, recharge ever 120 miles and do pretty well.
 
That would be a difficult question to answer in general. A lot depends on terrain, size of load, how aerodynamic it is, speeds you are running, etc. I can provide input based on my MY LR to put in perspective.

Towing 2 large jetskis, wider than the car itself and taller, my energy consumption goes up by about 20% at 55 mph, about 50% at about 65 mph. Above 65 efficiency plummets like a rock. Despite that, it is still cheaper to tow with than my last gas SUV I used in the exact same way.

Most I could go on a charge at 65 mph, on level roads, was about 160 miles and then I had to slow a lot until I found a charger. Planned on charging sooner but the one I stopped at was totally full so I went on a bit. I found I could drive about 70 mph on the highway, recharge ever 120 miles and do pretty well.
That's perfect. Thank you very much. Was just looking for a rough increase percentage.
 
I want to add a hitch to my 2014 P85+, when towing your boat, do you know how many more kilowatts it took to get from point A-B and how far it was.
I know on the level highway it would be much less than taking off at signal lights, just looking for a rough estimate of the increased energy.
In the bit of testing I've done with my fishing boat it reduces range by about a third, or you could think of it as the other way around that the energy consumption per mile went up about a third.
 
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Depends on how the SC is set up. Some I was able to pull alongside and charge (if not full). One I had to decouple the trailer to charge. That was a PITA. Some I've seen it set up so you could more easily pull up with a trailer. Basically the ones that have been around the longest are the least friendly for towing.
 
I wish I would have have installed the eco hitch already. I drove the Tesla to California for the weekend and ended up buying a Zero motorcycle out there. Was going to try and buy and install the hitch but the control module is out of stock until the middle of this month.
I borrowed a friends truck this past weekend and rented a uhaul motorcycle trailer and took my Ducati out there to sell and brought back the Zero. Cost $300 in gas, would’ve been great with the free supercharging, oh well.
I still want the hitch to take my bike camping or tow a seadoo to the lake.

I watched the videos and also wondering how hard it would be to install by myself and wondering if I can get it done in a day. The 12v wiring I don’t think I’d install. I’d just use my 12v AGM battery that I use for the motor on my blowup boat and set it in the trunk.

Just wondering with taking the bumper all the panels off kinda scares me in case it doesn’t all go back together right.

Also, do you cover up the hole when not towing? Didn’t know if on the freeway, if air could get in there and buffet and try to rip the bumper off. Don’t really want to spend another $120 for the cover. Plus with my artistic ability, I’d probably cut the hole too big and the cover wouldn’t even fit.

And last question, the hitch is rated at 300lbs tongue weight. That’s based on trailer towing capacity.
I was thinking of buying a motorcycle hitch that you just ride up a ramp and secure the bike.
Realistically with the bike and the motorcycle hitch and this hitch, it’s probably 350lbs. That’s probably too much weight on the frame of the car ?
 
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I would ONLY use those ride up motorcycle ramps/hitches on a pretty beefy truck. I've had them on several trucks and you really need to make sure it doesn't rock. It can put a lot of torque on the hitch. Not to mention it has a pretty long lever arm since the ramp has to be far enough away to tie it down and not have the handlebars or anything else hitting the car.

If you can find a drop-tail (brand) motorcycle trailer, grab it. They come in a bunch of flavors but no longer in product. The fold up nicely and are very sturdy. I regret selling my 2-place one but kept my single. Both towed incredibly well behind my Y. Here is a vid about how the work. They fold up very nicely and stand on end taking minimal floor space in a garage. I have probably towed a good 30k miles with my double that I sold when I was downsizing.


As for the hole in the bumper, maybe I missed it, but I didn't see where anyone had to cut out anything. I thought it was just supposed to pop out. One the Y it was a real PITA to deal with so I went with an aftermarket cover that replaced the factory cover.

Regardless of what way you with towing, your range will likely be cut in half or worse. Towing 2 large jetskis behind my Y, I might get about 110 miles on a full charge and down to 10% if running about 70 mph.
 
When I purchased my Model S 85 D just over a year ago one of the big concessions I made when purchasing it was giving up my ability to tow trailers or use my trailer hitch bike rack. I knew there was an aftermarket trailer hitch option, but I was a little scared to take my Tesla apart, and I didn’t want to pay lots of money for someone else to do it. After researching it more I decided to take the plunge and DIY it. I had some great friends come help me which was helpful and I was able to make a video of how to do it. I found a couple other installation videos on YouTube for the Model S, but it was for the newer Model S. After hours of searching I found zero instructions on how to do the trailer wiring in my Model S! I hope this empowers others to be able to DIY the installation because it turned out to not be overly difficult in my opinion. I’ve now had it installed for nearly 3 months and I’ve loved the functionality it provides!

In my case I also installed trailer light wiring (which was a lot more difficult to figure out, but I succeeded!) and now I’ve been able to take our small 14 foot fishing boat to multiple lakes, I’ve towed a small camping trailer, small utility trailer, large utility trailer and used our trailer hitch bike rack. I highly recommend doing it if you’ve ever thought it would be useful functionality to have. Feel free to ask any questions you may have and I’ll do the best I can to answer them based on my experience.

This is a video I created on the why, parts and costs associated with the installation

This is my trailer hitch installation instruction video

View attachment 579029 View attachment 579030 View attachment 579031 View attachment 579032 View attachment 579033 View attachment 579034
Some people don't like splicing into an existing wire. Personally my reasoning for tapping into the liftgate power wire was that it's already there, fused (30A), and routed safely. Running another wire, especially exposed to the outside, seems at risk of getting torn off/damaged by debris or chewed on by a curious 4 legged friend. The tekonsha module is only rated up to 4A or something, so there's plenty of capacity for it. I used a quick splice sized for 14awg (2.0mm^2) and then wrapped with electrical tape. As long as you use the proper size and keep it far enough away from the connector to avoid tight bends in the wire there's no issue. You can easily find wiring diagrams online for any year/version of the car since they have changed colors a few times. I suspect that even though they change wire colors they don't change the power liftgate module often, so the pin number should be more consistent (that's a guess though not a statement based on any knowledge). I wish I had taken a picture, if I ever have that panel off again I'll be sure to.
That’s kinda what I thought. I found these folding trailers last night for a pretty great deal, They’re made to order and takes him 2-3 days. And he gave me a link to eTrailer mounts for a watercraft so I can get duel purpose from it.
Next time I head to OC (if I do the hitch) I’m going to get one of these.
 
How do you cope with superchargers if you've got a trailer on?
Here is how our local SC is configured. Shown in photo is a Model Y charging.

M

IMG_5601.JPG
 
In the bit of testing I've done with my fishing boat it reduces range by about a third, or you could think of it as the other way around that the energy consumption per mile went up about a third.
In the bit of testing I've done with my fishing boat it reduces range by about a third, or you could think of it as the other way around that the energy consumption per mile went up about a third.
I took the plunge, just ordered the Totklift Stealth eco hitch and the Tekonsha ZCI wire hardness module kit.
Watched your videos several times and hopefully I can get it done by myself this weekend. 😁.
Torklift had two different stealth hitches. A 2” and 1 1/4”. The 2” states 400lb tongue and 4K towing.
eTrailer only listed the 2” one and lists 300lb tongue and 2k towing.
I hope I got the correct one and shouldn’t have gotten the 1 1/4. I’m hoping the hitch is the same and just the receiver part is 2”.
Fingers crossed.
 
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I think I’m gong to order the cover as well. Don’t really want to spend another $120, but I drive my car a few thousand miles a month and when the monsoons start here the roads get pretty flooded.
With that gaping hole, I wouldn’t want it filling up with water and put stress on the bumper.
 
I think I’m gong to order the cover as well. Don’t really want to spend another $120, but I drive my car a few thousand miles a month and when the monsoons start here the roads get pretty flooded.
With that gaping hole, I wouldn’t want it filling up with water and put stress on the bumper.
Congrats on your purchase and I hope it works well for you! Tesla Model S hitch by EcoHitch® This is the device I got and that I think you probably need. I got the 2 inch version which is referring to the receiver size. It's tongue weight is 300 pounds and towing capacity 2,000 pounds. There's a difference between tongue weight from a trailer and static weight of an accessory where the entire weight of the accessory is on the hitch. It doesn't state what the dynamic weight limit is, but I'd avoid going over roughly around 200 lbs for an accessory personally. As far as the hole in the bumper, I have just left it open with no problems. I've driven many thousands of miles since installing the hitch in rain too with no problems. The hole isn't big enough to make any difference or cause any problems. And frankly the hole can't even be seen unless you get down low and look up under the bumper so I think you should just save the $120 and not order the cover. Good luck with the installation! I recommend having a buddy around to help if possible, not that it's terribly difficult but it's nice to have someone hold the other side of the bumper when reconnecting the wiring harness.
 
I would ONLY use those ride up motorcycle ramps/hitches on a pretty beefy truck. I've had them on several trucks and you really need to make sure it doesn't rock. It can put a lot of torque on the hitch. Not to mention it has a pretty long lever arm since the ramp has to be far enough away to tie it down and not have the handlebars or anything else hitting the car.

If you can find a drop-tail (brand) motorcycle trailer, grab it. They come in a bunch of flavors but no longer in product. The fold up nicely and are very sturdy. I regret selling my 2-place one but kept my single. Both towed incredibly well behind my Y. Here is a vid about how the work. They fold up very nicely and stand on end taking minimal floor space in a garage. I have probably towed a good 30k miles with my double that I sold when I was downsizing.


As for the hole in the bumper, maybe I missed it, but I didn't see where anyone had to cut out anything. I thought it was just supposed to pop out. One the Y it was a real PITA to deal with so I went with an aftermarket cover that replaced the factory cover.

Regardless of what way you with towing, your range will likely be cut in half or worse. Towing 2 large jetskis behind my Y, I might get about 110 miles on a full charge and down to 10% if running about 70 mph.
This thread is all about the Model S after market trailer hitch which requires a hole to be cut in the bumper for the receiver. If you go to the first post of the thread you can watch a YouTube video of the installation I'm referring to.
 
Congrats on your purchase and I hope it works well for you! Tesla Model S hitch by EcoHitch® This is the device I got and that I think you probably need. I got the 2 inch version which is referring to the receiver size. It's tongue weight is 300 pounds and towing capacity 2,000 pounds. There's a difference between tongue weight from a trailer and static weight of an accessory where the entire weight of the accessory is on the hitch. It doesn't state what the dynamic weight limit is, but I'd avoid going over roughly around 200 lbs for an accessory personally. As far as the hole in the bumper, I have just left it open with no problems. I've driven many thousands of miles since installing the hitch in rain too with no problems. The hole isn't big enough to make any difference or cause any problems. And frankly the hole can't even be seen unless you get down low and look up under the bumper so I think you should just save the $120 and not order the cover. Good luck with the installation! I recommend having a buddy around to help if possible, not that it's terribly difficult but it's nice to have someone hold the other side of the bumper when reconnecting the wiring harness.
Thank you, looking forward getting and installing it this weekend, I do have a buddy who’s going to help me.
And yes I agree my motorcycle and motorcycle carrier is probably too much weight on the hitch. I did find a nice folding trailer that can double as a motorcycle/watercraft trailer and probably get that.
And I’ll pass on the cover, you said you’ve had no issues with rain so I’m sure it’ll be fine.
Looking forward to going to the lake this summer with a small boat or sea-doos in the 115 degree heat.
The closest decent lake is 130 miles away outside of Phoenix. I’m hoping I can make it there and stop at the supercharger on the way back for enough juice to get home.
Thanks again
 
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