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For anyone interested my Trailer Wiring Instructions Video is now online!
There is conduit that runs the length of the car on the outer rail of the battery...

 
Hole is all drilled out, now have reattach the bumper. I just noticed there’s a capped plug hanging below the car. Black, red, green, green/ white stripe. No idea what they’re for. Would be awesome if it was trailer wiring. Wondering if I should attach the bumper or wait to find out from Tesla what this could be.
 

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This plug goes into the trunk on the bottom passenger side.
 

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Bumper facia attached, just have to reconnect all the bottom stuff and then do the wiring.
I’m not worrying about the plug and wires I found underneath.
 

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I completed the hitch install, after I was finished I went to drive the car off the ramps and when going forward I got a warning saying "parking assist unavailable" or something like that. I had forgotten to plug the sensor plug back before attaching the bumper. Luckily I was able to unbolt the forward bottom pan and reach my had back into the bumper cavity and plug the connector back in.
Also if someone installs a hitch, don't forget that, and before putting the outside fins back on, don't forget to pull the fender liner out and back around the bottom pan. And putting the two torx screws back in under the wheel well liner was a pain.

Now just have to do the wiring and it'll be done.
 
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I completed the hitch install, after I was finished I went to drive the car off the ramps and when going forward I got a warning saying "parking assist unavailable" or something like that. I had forgotten to plug the sensor plug back before attaching the bumper. Luckily I was able to unbolt the forward bottom pan and reach my had back into the bumper cavity and plug the connector back in.
Also if someone installs a hitch, don't forget that, and before putting the outside fins back on, don't forget to pull the fender liner out and back around the bottom pan. And putting the two torx screws back in under the wheel well liner was a pain.

Now just have to do the wiring and it'll be done.
Did you remember to fully isolate the steel hitch from the aluminum body? ;)
 
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Did you remember to fully isolate the steel hitch from the aluminum body? ;)
That would really suck, ya I put one nylon washer on each stud.
Side note, you have a 911?
I recently sold my 01 986 S and got a 05 SL500. Shouldn’t have sold it, it was so much nicer driving it then the SL. The SL is going on BAT next week, and possibly gonna if to the 986.
Sorry to post off topic.
 
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Did you remember to fully isolate the steel hitch from the aluminum body? ;)
We just need to convince someone who's had one installed for a few years to pull the bumper and inspect or stick a borescope in and see what they find. I peeked inside my bumper last night (installed last June including the nylon washers and thoroughly coated everything with antiseize) and aside from a few minor rust specs where the removable part of the receiver rubs I didn't see anything. I couldn't get a view of the attachment points though.

I still think something else was going on in those pictures of the corroded hitch you posted earlier. I have a 4 year old aluminum frame utility trailer with steel parts bolted on (tongue and axle/suspension) and there's no more corrosion of the steel parts than any all steel trailer. They certainly didn't isolate the two metals from each other there either.
 
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I have no clue what it’s for. Out of curiosity, what is the mating connector. I think I could get the bumper off and on again in and hour if the plug can be used.
As the plug you found was female part I just posted that plugs mating (male) side on an webpage I usually use for my need. I have no idea (and can’t confirm my car has it too) what it’s used for but if someone will try it out then they can purchase that missing side.
 
That would really suck, ya I put one nylon washer on each stud.
Side note, you have a 911?
I recently sold my 01 986 S and got a 05 SL500. Shouldn’t have sold it, it was so much nicer driving it then the SL.
The SL is going on BAT next week, and possibly gonna if to the 986.
Sorry to post off topic.
Glad to hear that you isolated the steel and aluminum on your Tesla... galvanic corrosion can be nasty stuff.

I also collect air-cooled 911s including my favorite 993... good luck with your search for another Porsche. ;)
 
As the plug you found was female part I just posted that plugs mating (male) side on an webpage I usually use for my need. I have no idea (and can’t confirm my car has it too) what it’s used for but if someone will try it out then they can purchase that missing side.
I talked to Tesla today and they said that plug is for the TPMS, but my car already has it so I don’t understand. Oh well.
 
Thank you, I’m sure the cover will be fine. The instruction manual Torklift emailed me says 400 amd 4k trailer weight.
I wish there was some way to tell if that much weight would work. I know the Tesla manual says no towing at all.
I’m looking at small boats and it would be nice to know up to what weight I can tow safely without damage to the car’s frame.

Thank you @Jasper7821 for the info about the new 4000 lbs tow rating on the Model S ecohitch. This new version seems to have another product page here:

2012 – 2021 Pre-Refresh Tesla Model S Stainless Steel Stealth EcoHitch®

It has a different sku: x7201s (the old one was just x7201). The product page seems to make a big deal about the receiver being stainless steel which may or may not be related to the higher tow rating.

I have asked Torklift for pictures of the new hitch and how the design changed but support said it is "completely different than the original design" and have not provided me with any pictures.

However when I compare my 2019 ecohitch to the @Jasper7821 pictures from 2022 the hitches look exactly the same.

So either the new design is almost identical to the my 2019 version but somehow has a higher rating or the one @Jasper7821 has is not the new design.

If anyone else has info on the new x7201s ecohitch please share.
 
Thank you @Jasper7821 for the info about the new 4000 lbs tow rating on the Model S ecohitch. This new version seems to have another product page here:

2012 – 2021 Pre-Refresh Tesla Model S Stainless Steel Stealth EcoHitch®

It has a different sku: x7201s (the old one was just x7201). The product page seems to make a big deal about the receiver being stainless steel which may or may not be related to the higher tow rating.

I have asked Torklift for pictures of the new hitch and how the design changed but support said it is "completely different than the original design" and have not provided me with any pictures.

However when I compare my 2019 ecohitch to the @Jasper7821 pictures from 2022 the hitches look exactly the same.

So either the new design is almost identical to the my 2019 version but somehow has a higher rating or the one @Jasper7821 has is not the new design.

If anyone else has info on the new x7201s ecohitch please share.
I’m shopping for a little boat right now and I wish I knew what exactly what my car can tow. I know the manual says no towing at all, but Torklift’s engineers had to have done some testing or calculating to get the 200/2k rating. And now if indeed it is 400/4k it would be nice to know for sure.
I’m trying to find a boat small enough to fit in the garage with the car and light enough to not stress the car. I think if I find something with 2,500 combined boat/trailer I think I’d be ok.
I definitely don’t think I’d want to tow something that was 4k. If something were to bend the frame of the car, it would probably be totaled and my fault since the manual says no towing.
 
I’m shopping for a little boat right now and I wish I knew what exactly what my car can tow. I know the manual says no towing at all, but Torklift’s engineers had to have done some testing or calculating to get the 200/2k rating. And now if indeed it is 400/4k it would be nice to know for sure.
I’m trying to find a boat small enough to fit in the garage with the car and light enough to not stress the car. I think if I find something with 2,500 combined boat/trailer I think I’d be ok.
I definitely don’t think I’d want to tow something that was 4k. If something were to bend the frame of the car, it would probably be totaled and my fault since the manual says no towing.
The Model S has essentially the same frame as the Model X and the Model X can tow 5,000 lbs. There are users on TMC who have towed 5000 lbs and more with a Model S using a Model X hitch without issue. There is another hitch available in Europe for the Model S that has undergone extensive testing and has a rating of just over 4000 lbs. The car can handle it but you need a strong enough hitch.

Torklift sent me the new x7201s installation manual and I have compared it to the old x7201 manual from 2019. From the instructions and parts list, it looks like the new x7201s attaches to all 8 bolts per side instead of the 6 per side of the old hitch. They have also done away with the two frame plate straps that you attach to the lower bolts. Therefore, unfortunately I think yours is still the old design with six holes per side.

The new hitch would appear to have more attachment points which probably makes it much stronger. I would love to see a picture of it for comparison.