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Model S - Window Tinting

Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by yobigd20, Nov 8, 2012.

  1. MoeMistry

    MoeMistry Local Vendor - SoCal

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    What other meter should we use to test? As far as I know, all of us that are installing and selling tint are using these BTU meters. That should make the measurement tool across the board constant, therefor, results are based on different films using same measuring tool. Just for my own FYI, can you please PM me the results of those tests. In the end, if there's a film better than what we're using, then we should be installing it. We're more focused on technology and performance than branding. Hope that makes sense. We chose Huper Optik mainly for its clarity and heat rejection and we sampled many before choosing this one.
     
  2. hans

    hans P631

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    Wouldn't the best meter be a thermometer?
     
  3. Gear

    Gear Member

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    I admit I was a little nervous when I started reading your post. We all know sometimes our brains trick us into thinking things work better than they do. I'm glad the data also shows my $1000 wasn't wasted on Photosync. :)
     
  4. bradhs

    bradhs Member

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    I have a Black Tesla P85+ with the tan interior. I here all the good feedback regarding Photosync but I noticed the tint has a bluish color whereas 3M Crystalline does not.

    Does anyone with a black Tesla have any pictures?

    See Photosync specifications here: http://www.prestige-films.com/docs/photosync_datasheet_061713.pdf It shows "Color Characteristic" as "Light Blue"

    Also, I don't want it to be too dark and have no plans to do my front windows. Any recommendations on which shade I should get? I was thinking 55% or 65%
     
  5. araxara

    araxara S-P85#3,218 X-90D#3,299

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    I don't have a Black car with PhotoSync, but do have a Brown car. I have 65% all around, and don't notice any blue tinting. I would think that blue would stand out more with a brown car than with black car. I have a collection of photos of my Brown car showing the PhotoSync tint at Tesla Model S P85 Photosync 65% + 75% Windshield. I chose 65% because it gave me the maximum light transmission with adequate solar rejection. If you are just going to do the rear windows, then I think 55% would be OK. I didn't want to have different shades on mine.
     
  6. yobigd20

    yobigd20 Well-Known Member

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    If you scroll up in this thread I have a black P85 and posted numerous photos including how I DO NOT RECOMMEND 3m Crystalline due to its purplish hue especially on the rear window (see pics). It's expensive and I ended up paying to have it taken off and replaced. Save yourself the headache and get something else. I replaced mine with Madico Charcool and love it.
     
  7. MoeMistry

    MoeMistry Local Vendor - SoCal

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    Just to make a huge clarification....the front and rear tesla glass has a specialty coating that makes it have a bluish/purplish hue. When matched with certain high end film, this exponentially exaggerates that look. You can avoid this by not getting ceramic tint, however, if you choose conventional films, you drastically reduce heat rejection at lighter shades. The whole concept of ceramic and nano technology film is to be a light shade of film, but possess high performance heat rejection. Our most popular shade is Huper Optik Ceramic 60. We explain to our clients that our Huper Optik C60 is for those wanting excellent heat rejection without the "look" of tint. You have to take a double-look to realize the windows are tinted, but inside, it's noticeably cooler in temperature.

    In the end, go with a trusted installer and base your choice on quality of the installation. Because quite honestly, heat rejection is simply one factor. Clarity and durability is to me just as important. Another reason we're impressed with huper is the coating that is facing the interior windows. The scratch resistance is some of the best we've seen in the industry. Huper is extremely difficult to work with, Ceramic 30, and one of the reasons is that's it's very thick. Part of that thickness is the multi ceramic layer of TiN. In real life, we've seen examples of how other tints would have simply been scratched to bits, but the huper still outlasted other films. (Porsche Panamera is a great example and we tested huper on front doors without felt and it lasted nearly four months before showing signs of abrasion)

    So, there are many factors that to me make up a high-performance window film. The only way to tell what film is right for you, is by simply looking at the different films with your own eyes and judging for yourself. Data sheets are great, but film on an actual window and you looking out of it, is another story. I've seen the other brands mentioned here in real life. They each have their own strengths, but in the end, you gotta see the film in real life.
     
  8. lloyds

    lloyds Active Member

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    Photosynch is clearer than Huper on my BMW and without the purplish to Crystalline. So you're right, real life comparison beats out any vendor recommendation. Afterall, vendors are out to promote what they use.
     
  9. MoeMistry

    MoeMistry Local Vendor - SoCal

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    Some vendors do have integrity and only want to use the best...hence why we're openly discussing this on this lengthy thread ;) In the end, our brand name and equity is far more important and valuable than a product we carry.
     
  10. lloyds

    lloyds Active Member

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    This would be true if the performance of tints are equal. From my intensive research some tints are purposely positioned to beat the BTU test. Darthvdr's test is telling of what it is really about. I look at it like the performance of a car. Since the 0-60 is often used for speed tests, manufacturers can manipulate gear ratios to obtain better results. I see tint the same way now.

    What's more important and what seems to be the standard for tinters is the Total Energy Rejection, which is referenced by araxara as well.
     
  11. MoeMistry

    MoeMistry Local Vendor - SoCal

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    As you've mentioned, there are several characteristics that make window tint unique and more desirable than another brand. It's like cars...can one honestly say there is a BEST car that will be PERFECT for EVERYONE. As long as you have solid data, a great installer, and a great company to back up the warranty, you'll make the right decision on which tint is best for YOU.

    I've read through this thread, almost to page 30, had to take a break, and the 4 most prominent films mentioned are Llumar Formula 1, Photosync, Crystalline, and Huper Optic Ceramic Series. From a professional point of view, each has its own strengths and weaknesses. So, as long as you understand what you're paying for, all four of those films should be a great choice based on YOUR needs and performance desires.
     
  12. lloyds

    lloyds Active Member

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    No offense, but I just find that as the "professional" you didn't know that different tints perform differently and a BTU meter is not the best tool to measure. The Total Energy Rejection is the standard from my research.
     
  13. liuping

    liuping Active Member

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    #573 liuping, Feb 2, 2014
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014
    I was at my tint installer yesterday to replace the Photosync 75 on windshield (there was a spot that has some minor imperfections that did not go away after a month).

    When he pulled it off, it had an obvious blueish tint. On the Model S, however, the Photosync combined with the natural tint does not look blue at all. If anything, it's very slightly greenish on the areas I have 45.
     
  14. MoeMistry

    MoeMistry Local Vendor - SoCal

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    No offense taken. I believe my purpose is to educate those on this board. The Tint industry and innovation is constantly changing. What may be the perceived "Best" now, may be 2nd or 3rd best in six months when something better appears. In any of my posts here, even though we're a Huper Optik dealer, I don't believe I've mentioned Huper is the "BEST". It's foolish to make that claim because "best" is simply a marketing term and it's only the best to those that have chosen it based on THEIR need. I s a 15000 sq/ft house off PCH in Laguna Beach CA the BEST? Well, some may say yes, and other may say no. It's what each person sees of value based on their hierarchy.

    However, on post #202, I watched the youtube demonstration of the BTU meter used by those that installed your photosync. It doesn't matter if the tool isn't "industry standard" by those NOT in the industry. The simplest tool in the field by most, if not all, tint shops is a simple BTU meter. As I mentioned, if everyone is using a BTU meter to demonstrate their tint's performance, then that makes it "industry standard" in that industry because that tool IS a constant, not the tint.

    And as I mentioned before, TSER is simply ONE measurement that should go into your consideration of tint. To me, I'd argue that durability is just as important as heat rejection. What good is a TSER reading if the film is not durable? I've seen several of the tints mentioned here not last a few months. The tint in one particular MS, 3M Crystalline, is considered one of the best out there and within a few weeks, and $1300 cost, it was scratched up from the kids in the back that maybe played with their toys on the tint.

    So, it all comes down to educated decision. Heat rejection is a large part of why we tint our cars. So should clarity, durability, warranty from the shop, and most important, installer skill. That would be my "professional" advice.
     
  15. yobigd20

    yobigd20 Well-Known Member

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    while I totally agree with this, my 2c is that for me, "visual appearance" is my #1 factor over all of the others. you could top every single other "technical" category, but in the end if it ends up aesthetically looking like purple crap on the car (Crystalline), it's just going to get ripped right back off and replaced with something else.
     
  16. lloyds

    lloyds Active Member

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    My issue here is that you as a vendor or professional should already know this. But instead you ask a member here this question above, which shows a bit of inexperience. I'm just curious how long have you been doing tinting? To note, I do some intensive research as it is part of my job in my industry (wealth management), and I couldn't help, but research your background. I couldn't find any history for you or your company in tinting pre-dating 2012. Also how do you also explain the issues that us BMW owners (yes, I still own ICE) of the Huper problems with CA (comfort access)? These are problems well defined on a quick google search.

    I'm just not keen on spammers or solicitors hiding behind the justification of "helping" the community. Yes, I'm a cynic.
     
  17. aaronw

    aaronw Member

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    In my case I went with the 3M Crystalline since it has a long track record except for the rear window where I went with a much less expensive metallic tint that has similar performance for the darker tint. I decided on using the cheaper tint since there is a much higher likelihood of getting scratched (since I have a dog who rides in the trunk). I certainly didn't pay $1300. I paid less than half that for a very professional job with Auto Mall Tint Specialists in Fremont. I went with 70 for the front, 60 for the back windows and 40 for the rear window. The difference between the front and back windows from the side is not glaringly obvious like it is with cars that use a really dark tint for the back windows. On my previous car I had it tinted back in 2006 for around $200. The tint, while not an expensive one, has held up beautifully after almost 8 years parked out in the sun most days. While Photosync looks nice I wonder about the long-term durability of it.
     
  18. MoeMistry

    MoeMistry Local Vendor - SoCal

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    We have been in business for 20 years and our tinters have over 50 years of experience between the two of them. We are not a tint shop. We are well-known and regarded in our industry, but I commission the best in their industry to do work that we choose not to specialize in. We basically make their work better by the techniques we have and by the high standards we impose on our vendors. Hope that clarifies. To be fair, where you had your windows tinted also has had no tinting experience prior to carrying Photosync. That doesn't' make them a novice though. They are regarded as one of the pioneers and experts in the clear bra industry. Are they window tinters? Nope. I know the owners personally.

    As for asking another member here for the proper tool, I believe we are not naive enough to think we know everything. That member mentioned he was an expert in the heating industry and had sent his samples to his colleagues to test using very accurate equipment. I wouldn't mistake that as us being novice, Sir. We are always learning and searching for the best product and tools to validate them.

    As for Huper Optik and CA on BMW, I too have researched that. There seems to have been one or two cases in all the years that there was an issue. Huper Optik is a unique film that is widely counterfeited. There was question weather the film applied to one BMW was actually huper ceramic and the other I believe had issues that were still there once the film was removed. So, as far as we know, there are no known cases where Huper Optik was the source of CA issues. As for every new BMW we've installed Huper Ceramic on, our company, not Huper Optic, warranties against any CA issues. We have yet to have any issues on any vehicles related to comfort access, or the like. I assume you're meaning these threads below...the outcomes point away from the tint.

    huper optik tint + comfort access problems? - 5Series.net - Forums

    Huper Optik Tint - Comfort Access Problem

    This topic has nothing to do with our company and its merit, because neither would put it in a spammer or solicitor category. This topic is more about giving solid information and trusting those in the industry to guide enthusiasts in the path of choosing a product that's right for them. No matter how much research I do on the internet, I cannot fully fathom what it takes to understand the stock market and predict investments for my clients. I encourage you to respect others in their fields as well.

    If you're still cynical, I encourage you to simply pick up the phone and give me a call personally. Easy to misunderstand and take certain tones out of context through emails and typing on the forum. I think the members here would also appreciate us simply discussing this through PM or the phone. Look forward to hearing from you.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Thanks for validating what we've been trying to say. In your case, crystalline was not the BEST. Does it make it a poor quality film, absolutely not. It just didn't meet YOUR aesthetic needs. In the end, you found something you liked, it worked, and problem is solved. Kudos!!
     
  19. TylerCA

    TylerCA Member

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    Word of advice MoeMistry, I run several private companies and one public corporation, so I would say I am somewhat qualified for this comment. If you are wrong just admit to it. Continuously bickering over it and deflecting issues to other invalid points are problems we deal with in politics. This should not be the case here. Friendly advice ~

    My wife decided to have tint done while I was out of town despite my advice to not tint the MS. She had Huper put on abd the flames marks were horrendous. My assistant took the car back and the tinters said it was normal because they put heat to make he tint conform. This was not only frustrating, but we had it all removed only to replace with Photosynch and those flame marks are now gone. Is this tint the "best"? Who knows. But I can say definitively that it does not have any of the drawbacks of Huper and Llumar. I am pickier than most, so these things may not bother others. To me it is night and day difference in how the car looks.
     
  20. yobigd20

    yobigd20 Well-Known Member

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    if it hasn't been pointed out somewhere else in this thread, those "flames" and rainbow discoloration is called "ghosting". it's a result from the amount of heat used to shrink the tint to conform to the window. usually you'll see it on the rear window as that is the window with the most curvature and requires the most shrinkage. AFAIK it's more prevalent in Huper Optik than any other film due to the type of ceramic used in the film itself. most other films won't have this effect at all. it's kinda funny how these "higher-end" films end up looking crappier than medium-grade films. I have yet to hear anything negative about photosync, besides it's high cost of course.
     

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