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Model S - Window Tinting

Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by yobigd20, Nov 8, 2012.

  1. S4Life

    S4Life Member

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    #701 S4Life, Jun 13, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2014
    The ripples and smears are just the slip solution (Dish soap and water) used to install the film. Leave it outside for day and you should see them go away. You will notice they are less noticeable around the edges of the windows and rubber seal as those should be heat gunned so drier than the rest. They may have a bit of the rainbow effect as thats the soap. You should not see large amounts of water in the windows but they will appear foggy.

    What you do want to look for in a good tint job is, no scratched glass on outside from cutting. They may have plotter cut it and if so no worries then, but if they hand cut the patterns then they need to be extra careful. The glass on a S scratches easily. I use a special trick where I can cut it on the outside of the window through the film but not touch the glass. Its a trade secret so can't share how I do that though LOL.

    The next big thing is contamination. Check the corners and look for what appears to be small bubbles. It will be easier to see them once it dries but important to fix them before it dries. This is from dust/lint that gets in during install and can be reduced or eliminated mostly by a good tinter. Its what sets the great tinters apart form the average joes. If not worked on with a hard card before it dries it may not go away. Everyone gets a bit of contamination its taking the time to work them out with a heat gun and hard card that makes the difference.

    Because the S has frameless doors you have to look at all the micro gaps left on the glass. It should be no more than a 1/16 of an inch. Some shave them so no gaps but thats a lot more work and a bit risky as some may peel back if not perfect. If its computer cut on the doors I have never seen those done well. Just too hard to make a perfect template and no 2 windows are alike. Hand cut is custom and a clean smooth cut with equal gaps is a good tinter.

    Hope that calms your nerves and helps you a bit and if you get a chance post a close up and I can tell you if its a worry or not. Smears is subjective and if its not the hazy foggy look I think your talking about then it may be of concern. If working out contamination or overheating and pressing our the film you can actually smear the adhesive. That would be very noticeable though and stand out to the surrounding areas quite distinctively.
     
  2. Runs Kwh

    Runs Kwh Member

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    Thanks for input on the window tints and what to look for. I'm taking it at face value that Extreme Autowerks did the work right - and will give the glass another few days to fully dry (the very dry air in LA does help). If it's not to my level of satisfaction, I'll bring the car back and let Bing and his team redo it right, since he said they do stand by their work.

    My biggest gripe is that they said they were going to clean all the windows inside and out prior to the install of the tint, but did not do so (at least on the exterior), which leaves me concerned that perhaps they didn't do as good as a job on the interior. That coupled with the smear marks all over the windows, which leads me to believe they used dirty towels to wipe down after the install - at least I hope. AND again, for $1350 you would expect clean windows, right?
     
  3. S4Life

    S4Life Member

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    Yeah, i use a waterless car wash on the outside with spray way glass cleaner on the windows. I also wrap the interior in plastic so no water gets on them. Most shops I work for do not do that level of work. You can browse yelp reviews all day long and find people complaining about that kind of stuff. The slip solution can really streak a door panel and it stakes a lot of 303 to get rid of those streaks as it is a detergent. I play it safe so I won;t be sorry ;)
     
  4. liuping

    liuping Active Member

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    #704 liuping, Jun 13, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2014
    Actually, I've suspected you might be a internet shill for a while. Here are some reasons why (standard shill practices):

    1) You join the forum and claim to be an owner (so you are "one of us"). You use us and we a lot.
    2) Start raising questions doubts about a product (FUD)
    3) You point to another forum where people are "questioning the product", at least one of the 3-4 people "questioning" looks to be you, the others could be alternate logins or other shills.
    4) You don't actually say anything bad directly, so there is no liability, if caught.
    5) You comment on the prices of the product (more FUD), but when it's pointed out it's the same as a similar 3M Product, you never criticize 3M, only Photosync (points to possible 3M shill).


    No one thing above is evidence of a shill, obviously, but taken together they extremely suspicious.

    You made a few mistakes, so I'd say if you are a shill, your employer might want to doc your pay:

    1) You started the FUD too early, nearly your first post on the forum. you should have pretended to be an owner or tint installer for longer, build up a little reputation first.
    2) Your comment about photosync holding up over time, "Guess us Telsa owners are used to that game like the battery degradation", that does not sounds like any Owner I've ever met.
    3) You focus too much on photosync. You would be more believable if you comment on the cost of other High heat rejection films, there color issue, prism effect, etc. Of course that would only possible if you are not a shill for 3M, since they are the main competitor in the ultra high heat rejection tints.


    I'm sure you will come back with lots of comments saying you are not a shill, that is expected. No shill will ever admit to being one (it's in the contract)

    Anyway, I've said my bit, anyone can agree or disagree with me. At least they know I'm a real owner (my VINs is in my signature), with real photosync installed (from Monumental Worx), I've posted the price I paid ($900), and I've met people on the forum in person and they've seen my car at the San Diego Tesla Club meetings, even Tesla knows who I am "in real life" (they email me when ever I mention an issues I'm having; San Diego Service Center is super proactive!).
     
  5. dsm363

    dsm363 Roadster + Sig Model S

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    Mod note: this back and forth really isn't productive. Let's try and focus on the actual tints used on the Model S for this thread. Thanks.
     
    • Like x 1
  6. AmpedRealtor

    AmpedRealtor Active Member

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    35% Photosync on side windows and rear hatch, 70% 3M Crystalline on windshield (verified with visible 3M logo). Total cost was under $970 out the door. It was the installer's opinion that the pano roof did not need additional tinting. Even in the Arizona desert heat, I don't feel any heat from the pano. I think tinting the pano is a waste of money.
     
  7. DaveT

    DaveT Searcher of green pastures

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    Just got Photosync installed (45 rear window and liftgate, 65 front window, 75 windshield). The installer says I need to wait a week as it's a bit hazy now (installer says it needs to completely dry). I'll report back later with my personal take/evaluation
     
  8. MoeMistry

    MoeMistry Local Vendor - SoCal

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    This thread is a great one for those wanting excellent reviews of various films, and photosync gets the people's choice award. I don't want to ruffle feathers of a select few here, so I'll leave it at that.

    Hoping to see Prestige (photosync manufacturer) rep and real-life demos at SEMA this year. If you have something innovative and want to blow your competition away and gain respect of professionals, that's the worldwide venue. Until then, as far as I know, the numbers quoted on photosync data sheet are simply speculation based on data given by manufacturer.

    As any of you that have used our services know, we are in the business of providing our clients what we feel is industry best. I have access to photosync and can start carrying it if I choose. I'd probably be making a lot more $$$ if I did considering what the market is bearing. But, I'm also about integrity and looking my client in the eye and telling them anything they want to know. At this moment, I feel we're giving our clients the best options based on facts and proven track record widely accepted among professionals in our industry. That's the great things about America...freedom of choice.

    As far as our shop goes, if photosync is the best, we WILL use it. I hope it is. Many have put their names and their cars behind it.

    But let's not lose sight of things here...we're splitting hairs between ceramic films. Almost ANY ceramic film out there will make an amazing impact when compared with traditional films. The thing to remember is, our focus should be on achieving a goal. Goal here is to cut the heat, the UV, IR, clarity, durability, and still look good. All the films discussed so far in this thread, do that very well.

    For the most part, we're now at 700+ posts, the focus has been on rave reviews of photosync...that's wonderful. That's what forums do. But, we must be respectful and not judge other members or make assumptions and try to make the assumption appear to be facts. It's called forum etiquette. If you have a problem with another member, discuss it in a PM in a civil manner. If it's not productive in helping others, it's simply a great drama thread.

    I'm sure Prestige Films is watching this thread. If you have an amazing product, professionals such as myself, who are always searching for innovative solutions, love products that are unique and game changers. I truly want to see your product outperform what I use now, because that's keeping in-line with our business model of offering cutting-edge service and product. You should want to get your product in as many installer hands like our shop to get it in front of the right end-users and have the best installers applying the film. That benefits the marketplace and is great for consumer. It also educates great shops searching for best product, not brand loyal. There are 100000s of tint shops, but there are a fraction that can truly work with an innovative product and, more importantly, install it with the same level of care, performance, and integrity. Marketplace is always changing and ultimately, a business like ours is focused on innovation and creative solutions to problems...no matter what the brand.

    Innovation should be shared with everyone in marketplace that deserves it. I believe someone did just that the other day by releasing several patents from a small startup called TESLA. This visionary wants to let those with the best intentions in mind increase electric car market from the current 1% market share. What a great example to follow.

    Final thought...no matter what anyone says, those getting ceramic film will definitively FEEL and SEE the performance. Whether you chose 3M Crystalline, Photosync, Suntek CXP, Huper Optik Ceramic, Formula One, etc., as long as you chose ceramic, you will notice a huge difference. And no matter what ceramic film you choose, make sure to find the BEST installer in your area. It's more important to get a great installer because so much can go wrong during installation...the best film in the world cannot save you from getting razor cut marks on your glass, shorting out center console screen by getting water in the wrong area, or simply getting specks of dirt in the film during install.
     
  9. S4Life

    S4Life Member

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    Spot on Moe :biggrin:. Never met you but I agree 100% with your assessment. I wish I had your choice of words from the get go and maybe all the back and forth would not have taken place.

    Keep up the good work as I enjoy seeing it!
     
  10. wamochi

    wamochi Member

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    #710 wamochi, Jun 13, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2014
    learning alot from this thread. moe and/or S4life, can you comment on the micro gaps? i know you said 1/16" earlier. i am concerned since this will be the first frameless window car we will be tinting (others were convertibles and not tinted). on my current car (regular framed windows), i felt like the film "shrunk" after installation and the gap was larger than when it started. was i just imagining that? or is it normal? definitely on one or two of the windows, the micro gap seems too visible and doesn't get right up to the edge when you have the window rolled down half way. definitely more than 1/16".

    i just don't know if there are certain films more prone to shrinkage or if it was just an amateur install? we are keeping the tesla for the long haul instead of leasing so we'd like the tint to turn out as perfect as possible, especially since they are frameless!
     
  11. MoeMistry

    MoeMistry Local Vendor - SoCal

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    are you talking about the edge of the glass? like, top and two sides?
     
  12. S4Life

    S4Life Member

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    Tint is not going to shrink once its installed and requires high heat when done anyway. Once heat gunned it will stay right where it is. The gap should be very small, anything over a 1/16 of an inch could be done better. Shaving it would have no gap but on a frameless door that rolls up like the Tesla after door closes is a bit risky as it can peel more easily. I personally leave a micro gap small enough its hardly noticeable. It for sure should be straight as you actually cut it along the edges in one smooth motion with an olfa knife. Average tinters seem to have a hard time with this where a good one will not change the angle of the blade at all and be super smooth doing it. Then once cut and on the peel board you can trim off some side portion so it fits perfect all the way around or you can just cut that on the glass by hand or a trim guide once installed.

    Computer cuts will take all that out of the equation but in my experience never fit 100% perfect and can't replace a top tinters skill with a hand cut. Computer cuts are great on back glass as scratching the glass is not a worry.

    I also pull the door panels on the S when tinting so I can go well below the window seal. Some just stuff it in there but you can't be assured its clean on the edge doing that. Some jam down the window trim with a bone (Push stick tool) and once done they roll the window down and then back up to bring the seal back into place. that allows them to tint below the seal. The Tesla's seal is pretty tight so thats not recommended as it can leave marks on it. Pulling the door panel and then the seal off the panel is the cleanest way. I then wrap the panel in protective plastic, tint the window, heat my edges and work out any imperfections, then replace the seal and snap the door panel back on and into the seal. It takes longer but is the best way to do it IMO.
     
  13. MoeMistry

    MoeMistry Local Vendor - SoCal

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    +1...my installer both leave a little excess along edges and after heating the edge of glass, come back and trim with blade. That takes lots of skill...one slip, you're basically redoing that window. If done properly, there should be no daylight at edge of glass.
     
  14. lloyds

    lloyds Member

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    Exactly my thoughts, but much more eloquently put. What's most important to us is whether or not the products we use on our cars work and are there any drawbacks. So far, from my experience there are no negatives. And I think it's why so many of us here get photosynch and are so strongly opinionated about it.
     
  15. m2s2

    m2s2 Member

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    getting my car sunday, people seem to like photosync and 3m?
     
  16. dsm363

    dsm363 Roadster + Sig Model S

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    That seems to be the consensus. Sounds like you can't go wrong with either one.
     
  17. Joer293

    Joer293 MODEL X P100DL

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    +1 on Photosync. I'm in the DC/Baltimore area, and just had the Photosync 55/45 installed on the sides and rear, 75/70 on the Windshield by Home Window Tinting Maryland | Office Window Tinting Baltimore| DC| VA | Vista Window Film Dealer | Marylands Only FormulaOne Automotive Tint Dealer. I was back and forth for months between Crystalline and Photosync, but you guys helped make my decision. All of the pictures helped too. I really like the factory matching light blue glint, as opposed to the bronze glint that I get with 3M crystalline on my other vehicles.

    The techie in me, broke out the FLIR for comparison, since everyone else has already done the timed thermometer test videos and hundreds of photo's. I can confirm before and after photo sync, 90 minutes in the high sun, 95 F outside, direct sun. Here are the results.

    before:
    Notice how the seat is a solid ~125 F, and even the doors are hot.
    (The factory glass appears colder due to low thermal emissivity, and the cold thermometer was not in there the whole time)
    View attachment 52858


    After Photosync:
    Notice how the seat temperature is 20-30 F lower, and the doors are cooler. The backseats are also significantly cooler as well.
    (The tint appears hotter, because it is, but compared to regular glass, this tint has a normal thermal emissivity)
    FLIR0241.jpg
     
  18. dsm363

    dsm363 Roadster + Sig Model S

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    #718 dsm363, Jul 2, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2014
    Great job on tests. Do you think Photosync 75 on all windows except windshield would be a waste of money ( subjective I know)? Really don't want tinted look but also don't want to apply such a light tint if it doesn't do much. Thanks.
     
  19. Runs Kwh

    Runs Kwh Member

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    My better half doesn't like the tinted look. We went for 55 and it's very light.. I wish it was darker.
     
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  20. Joer293

    Joer293 MODEL X P100DL

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    If you prefer not to have the 'tint' part of window tint, or live in a state with > 70% limit then I would say 75 on the front and rear sides will help some. I say that because there is no factory UV & IR protection on the side windows, so you will notice a difference there, even with clear. Especially if your left arm gets sunburnt easy, the 75% completely prevents that. The rear window would be a waste of money, since the windshield and hatch already has some built in UV & IR protection. No reason to add clear to the back hatch glass.
     

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