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Model X 100D Mileage Drop

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I had my X 100D delivered end of March, it was charged to 100% at 297 Miles ( did that twice only) and about 265-267 Miles for 90%.

Once in June I used it till about 15 miles left, and after that when I charged the battery, it only gets to 292 miles to 100% and about 262 for 90%.

Is that normal? Did it happen because I drove once to very low battery? Any remedy I can do?

Thanks.
 
I had my X 100D delivered end of March, it was charged to 100% at 297 Miles ( did that twice only) and about 265-267 Miles for 90%.

Once in June I used it till about 15 miles left, and after that when I charged the battery, it only gets to 292 miles to 100% and about 262 for 90%.

Is that normal? Did it happen because I drove once to very low battery? Any remedy I can do?

Thanks.

Just needs balancing I wouldn’t worry about it much ..just daily charge to 80 or 90 for awhile those “lost miles “ will come back ...;)
 
Reading hundreds of posts on the same topic over the years, the consensus seems to be these mostly aren't real losses. The car calculates range based on measuring State-Of-Charge and translates this into miles of range left. When cars are routinely cycled as daily-drivers, range-used may only fluctuate 10 or 20% (ex you charge to 90% when you leave each morning and plug back in at night w/ 70% SOC. For some reason this causes the computer to slightly miscalculate the true battery's potential. Some have suggested that a couple deep discharges, followed by full charges will "rebalance" the pack. N=1, but when all was said and done (and balanced), my Model S 70D probably really only lost 4-5 miles of range, or <2%, over 3 years and 36,000 miles. This extremely low range loss over time & mileage is consistent with what many others have reported.
 
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Yeah most likely your first drive down to 15% just improved the accuracy of the charge estimation. I wouldn’t stress over a couple mile fluctuation and I certainly would not repeatedly charge to 100% in an attempt to “rebalance” and cause more wear to the battery.
 
I was seeing around 9.3% loss from a 100% of 237 (MX 75D, December 2016, 14,500 miles) to, after a deep discharge and full charge to 100%, 220 miles(!). I noticed a significant drop in range after the SC left it at <10% for two days during its annual service last year, dropping it to near-zero for a number of hours. The SC did a diagnostic and said the cells were fine. Does this mean:

1. To re-balance, I need to do more deep discharges because one is not enough, or
2. The SC may have caused real range loss, regardless of what they say about the diagnostics.
fullcharge.jpg

Thanks for your advice. Getting clear guidance from Tesla on this is frustrating.
 
I was seeing around 9.3% loss from a 100% of 237 (MX 75D, December 2016, 14,500 miles) to, after a deep discharge and full charge to 100%, 220 miles(!). I noticed a significant drop in range after the SC left it at <10% for two days during its annual service last year, dropping it to near-zero for a number of hours. The SC did a diagnostic and said the cells were fine. Does this mean:

1. To re-balance, I need to do more deep discharges because one is not enough, or
2. The SC may have caused real range loss, regardless of what they say about the diagnostics.
View attachment 325369
Thanks for your advice. Getting clear guidance from Tesla on this is frustrating.

How can the SC say that is ok? Beyond me
 
I came to realize long ago that calibrating the "fuel gauge" in distance units is crazy. I just set it to % and relax.
I strongly disagree, but I would say it works for some people, and it doesn't for other people, depending on how obsessive and stressed each person's personality is.

Some people are ultra paranoid and are giving themselves ulcers if they see it deviate by any amount. Your advice is good for them, because seeing the miles is driving them insane, so just take that away so they are not seeing that number to set off their OCD.

But for people who are more calm, your advice to "just set it to % and relax" is bad, because we're not worried or freaking out or going hysterical over little fluctuations in the number of miles, and it's kind of informative. That would not be "relaxing" at all to switch to % and then not have the information on the distance remaining. People think of how far apart things are and how far they have to drive in miles, not percents. Then it's just causing confusion and stress of wondering and not having the information. A lot of people see the display say 226, and think, "Eh, it's ballpark high, so I can probably do about 190 to 200.", and they're not bothered at all.
 
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I came to realize long ago that calibrating the "fuel gauge" in distance units is crazy. I just set it to % and relax. If I need to see how far I can really go, I use the car's Energy App which is much more accurate anyway,


Exactly. I am baffled there is no option to set the battery in terms of the "Energy App's" estimated range from your previous driving habits / 30 miles.
 
I was seeing around 9.3% loss from a 100% of 237 (MX 75D, December 2016, 14,500 miles) to, after a deep discharge and full charge to 100%, 220 miles(!). I noticed a significant drop in range after the SC left it at <10% for two days during its annual service last year, dropping it to near-zero for a number of hours. The SC did a diagnostic and said the cells were fine. Does this mean:

1. To re-balance, I need to do more deep discharges because one is not enough, or
2. The SC may have caused real range loss, regardless of what they say about the diagnostics.
View attachment 325369
Thanks for your advice. Getting clear guidance from Tesla on this is frustrating.

So you may actually have about a 7% range loss (237 miles * 93% = 220 miles maximum range). Some people are seeing a 2% to 5% loss after 1 - 2 years, with the rate of loss virtually halting after year two, so yours is almost in that area. I generally charge to 100% to be sure the battery is balanced once a year and after the charge completes, drive it right away. I try to keep it higher than a 10% charge state.

I also recommend you charge normally up to 90% for better battery health, and make sure Range Mode is disabled since the battery may not be cooled as well with that setting active.

You're using Rated Range?
 
I strongly disagree, but I would say it works for some people, and it doesn't for other people, depending on how obsessive and stressed each person's personality is...

But for people who are more calm, your advice to "just set it to % and relax" is bad, because we're not worried or freaking out or going hysterical over little fluctuations in the number of miles, and it's kind of informative.

Sorry if I came off a bit uppity.

Here is where I'm coming from with that comment:

The Tesla battery gauge, when set to distance units, does not show "predicted" range as many other EVs do. It simply calibrates the gauge to the maximum distance per EPA rating and, over time as the battery degrades, it reduces that maximum "at 100%" number down accordingly. Then, as you drive, it just decreases in a linear fashion.

I never drove an ICE car that had it's gas gauge calibrated in distance units, although it would have been easy to do... just take the car's combined EPA MPG number times the fuel tank capacity.

Neither the ICE or Tesla scenario above is very useful as you rarely get EPA rated efficiency with so many factors at play. In the case of my Tesla, since it is just a linear representation of remaining battery capacity, I would rather have my "fuel gauge" calibrated from 0 to 100 as opposed to 0 to 265.

Tesla does have a very good Energy App which shows you real, predicted values. I wish that number would show on the center dash with the Energy App widget like it does on the full Energy screen on the 17" panel. That is what I use if I want to know how far I can really go.

I find it much less stressful than worrying about a mile or two lost hear and there on the dash as I charge to 90%, 100% etc. All I need to know is "how full" the battery is. If I am concerned, what I do is set the Nav to plot a course to my destination, and open the Energy App. As long as my "predicated" miles are greater than my "actual" miles to destination, I know I am good to go.
 
Neither the ICE or Tesla scenario above is very useful as you rarely get EPA rated efficiency with so many factors at play.
Your phrasing right here shows the difference in thinking, though. You say it is not "useful", since it will not precisely match the EPA number, so it should just be thrown out and ignored, since it can't be trusted to be exact.

For most people like me, who are less uptight, that number is still useful and informative, even if it doesn't match exactly. We're OK with seeing the number of "rated miles", and just knowing that we'll probably get a little bit less than it says.

The % would just show me whether it's less than half or more than half, but what can I do with that so-called information? Without going through some math calculations to try to convert it into some distance, it can't really be used for much.

So it's the difference between:
Distance: informative but not precise
Percent: precise but not informative